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Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Globe Town

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Great Eastern Railway Line to Ilford
The railway to Ilford running from Bethnal Green Station goes north eastwards

Post to the west Bethnal Green

Bancroft Road
The road was built to access the Mile End Workhouse from Mile End Road.
238 The Carlton Arms Pub. This dates from at least the 1850s.
Devonshire Road Goods yard. This was near to Globe Road station at ground level built in 1880. It was accessed by a ramp from the main line above and it was worked by small GER locomotives.  An entrance with a sign faced onto Bancroft Road. The yard was on both sides of the line with coal drops on the south side. It closed in 1967
Jewish Burial Ground. The abandoned cemetery of long closed Maiden Lane synagogue in Covent Garden. The Maiden Lane Synagogue was the result of disputes in the 19th. This break away congregation bought its own cemetery at Globe Fields and the first burial was in 1811.  By 1884 it was in disrepair and by 1895 filled up.  Then Henry Harris donated land in Edmonton for a grave yard this to community and Bancroft Road. Maiden Lane's declining membership brought on a financial crisis, and by 1907 they were bankrupt and terms were agreed with the Westminster Synagogue for a takeover. Bancroft road cemetery was bombed during World War Two and little now remains. Following publicity about the state of this cemetery a group has been formed and work to tidy and restore it is taking place.
Mile End Workhouse. In 1857 Mile End Old Town became a separate Poor Law 'Hamlet'. A new workhouse, was built in 1858-9 adjacent to the Jews' burial ground. The first stone was laid in 1858 and the building was designed by William Dobson and constructed Messrs. Ayers of Dover. It had an entrance block facing onto Bancroft Road with board-room and offices; casual wards with a stone-breaking yard, accommodation wards, dining room, chapel, infirmary, an imbeciles' block and a school block with its own laundry, playgrounds, and sheds. In the 1920s it became Mile End Hospital.
275 Mile End Hospital. In 1858-9 a new workhouse and infirmary for 500 inmates was built to the north of Mile End Road.  The Mile End Old Town Infirmary for the workhouse opened in 1883 on the site of the old infirmary and imbecile wards.   A Nurses Training School was established in 1892.   During the Great War WW1 the Infirmary became a military hospital.  In 1930, it came under the London County Council and was renamed Mile End Hospital.  It joined the NHS in 1948.   In 1968 the London Hospital took over the management and it became the London Hospital (Mile End). It is now a community hospital caring mainly for elderly patients.  A Centre for Mental Health opened here in 2007.
Crown Works. Mineral Water factory. This was Stower’s Lime Juice Cordial works owned by Alexander Riddle & Co. Stowers had begun in Commercial Street as British Wine & Pickle makers and were taken over by Riddle in 1880. They moved, Bancroft Road in 1912 and stayed there until 1960
Crown Works. In the 19th this was the works of Henry Roberts and Co. manufacturers of brewery plant and equipment.

Longnor Road
Entrance to hospital car parks
Entrance to complex of University Halls of Residence.


Meath Crescent
New housing on the site of the goods yard.
Boundary mark stone which says “St. M. M. E. B. G. M. E. O. T. 1885 1885”. This appears to mark the boundary between St. Matthews Mile End, Bethnal Green and Mile End Old Town
Devonshire Road Goods yard.  The yard was on both sides of the line with an entrance in Bancroft Road on the south. The north side is said to be the original section and which handled perishable goods. In the 1870s an incline was built north of the line which served street level sidings and which connected to the south by lines under the viaduct. From 1922 it was called Mile End and Devonshire Street depot and from 1939 it was Mile End only.


Meath Gardens 
This was originally Victoria Park Cemetery.  This was notorious for the scandalous conditions when it was a neglected private cemetery. The site was bought for building purposes in 1840 by the MP of Tower Hamlets, Butler who gave the land but it was not paid for and meanwhile burials had taken place and a chapel had been built.  The cemetery was never consecrated and closed in 1876 contain some 300,000 bodies and was described as 'gruesome state' by Lt. Col J J Sexby of the London County Council Parks Department.   Butler’s son agreed with the Metropolitan Gardens Association that the land should be used for a park and but this could not happen for legal reasons until the London Council had been formed. After fund raising and donations work began under the Association’s landscape gardener, Fanny Wilkinson, using unemployed labour.  It took a year to complete. It was called Meath Gardens after the Earl of Meath, who was the Chairman of the Association and it was opened in 1894 by the Duke of York with gardens and children’s playgrounds’. Management was by the London County Council. A playground was added in 1990, and beyond the boundary are the Prospect Allotments. A tree was donated by Hillier Nurseries Ltd to the Aboriginal Cricket Association in 1988, and a plaque is inscribed ‘'In memory of King Cole, Aboriginal cricketer, who died on the 24th June 1868. Your Aboriginal dreamtime home. Wish you peace'.
A Gothic arch with plain initials 'VPC' and date 1845. This was the former entrance to the cemetery and may be by Thomas Ashpitel, who designed the now demolished mortuary and chapel.


Morpeth Street
Morpeth Secondary School has nearly 1,200 pupils who students come from a wide range of ethnic backgrounds. It specialises in the Arts and Music.  A Central, Secondary school, Morpeth Street, was opened in 1910 for the School Board for London.  The school was by T.J. Bailey, roughcast rendering and chequer-pattern tiles. It followed the pattern for central schools of a hall flanked by pavilion wings and single-storey rear classroom block. The entrances have Art Nouveau details and inside, are staircases with bow-fronted balustrades with heart-shaped motifs. There was cupola with a weathervane of swallows in flight. After the Second World War it provided general, technical, and commercial courses and an enlarged site included the ormer Portman Place School. They also took over the old John Scurr School in Wessex Street as an annexe. A new block with containing workshops, gymnasium, library and hall was added in 1974. An extension was added in 1997 by Norman & Dawbarn. And in 2001 a library by the same firm. A new Performing Arts building was opened in 2007 by the British film director and producer (and former Morpeth parent), Danny Boyle.
Portman Place School. This was opened by the School Board for London in 1878. And a new block added in 1896, with drawing room, laboratory, cookery and manual training centres, and a special school. This was designed by T.J. Bailey, with a tall, pyramidal roof to a stair tower. It closed in 1947/51 and the site was taken into Morpeth Secondary School.


Palmers Road
The canal area alongside which the road runs is currently being developed for housing
Palmers Wharf.  This was the name of the site from the 1890s when it was owned by the London Oil Storage Company They dated from 1885 and were an early company developing tank farms, in riverside and other locations.  The wharf it was heavily bombed in the Second World War.  Structures were later replaced by canal side wharves with cranes and an overhead canopy over the canal. The wharf is said to have largely dealt in timber. Latterly as Suttons Wharf it has been occupied by Suttons International specialising in exhibition display and other items.
Victoria Works Palmers Wharf. Making oil and candles 1869-1946. By the 1940s they were also making furniture.
Steelux Holdings Ltd. This company was making future on the site in the 1980s.  It has also been used by Stringer Limited, now based in Greenwich, who make office and retail furniture and display items.


Roman Road
Globe Town Market. Traditional market in a 1950s built shopping precinct.
170 Angel and Crown. This pub dates from at least the early 19th but was rebuilt in 1951.


Smart Street
Meath Gardens Childrens Centre


Walter Street
Chemical Works 

Sources
Aldous. London Villages 
Bethnal Green Free Art and History. Web site
British History Online. Bethnal Green 
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford
East London History Society Review
GLIAS Newsletter
London Encyclopaedia
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site.
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Lucas, London
Mementos of Tower Hamlets. Web site
Morpeth School. Web site
Morpeth School. Wikipedia. Web site.
Workhouses. Web site


Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Mile End

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Great Eastern Railway line to Ilford
The Great Eastern railway line running from Bethnal Green Station goes north eastwards

Post to the west Globe Town

Aberavon Road
This was originally Frederick Place and was developed from 1824 as a terrace
Eaton Terrace by UBZWG for Kentish Homes built in 1983-5. The doorways are flanked by huge curving pedestals with balls, put there to disguise the rubbish bins
Anthill Road
129 built in 1869 as the Duke of York pub, for the Smith, Garrett, & Co. brewery of Bromley-by-Bow. The pub closed in 2002 but tiled signage has been kept in conversion to housing - the best monument to that brewery that can still be seen today. 

Cherrywood Close
Housing built on the site J T Davies Ltd rope works. This was a subsidiary of the wire rope manufacturers, John Stephens of Bristol and Warrington, and made fibre ropes, including from coir for Fishing Vessels, Running Gear, and Trawl Warps. They were taken over by Bridon in 1925

Clinton Road
This once residential road is now inside the park.
Grove Road
The continuation of Burdett Road northwards from Mile End Road, leads to Victoria Park
2 Greedy Cow. This was the Prince of Wales but was set up as the Prince of Prussia before 1881.  It was a tied house to the London & Burton Brewery of Stepney and on the pub sign was their insignia of ‘LBB’ as part of the iron work.  The name was changed at the outbreak of the Great War by which time it was a Watney’s house. It closed in 2005.
Rail Bridge. This carries the Great Eastern line and the road is lowered underneath it
Plaque on the railway bridge. Mile End was hit by the first V1 flying bomb in 1944, which fell next to the railway bridge. Eight civilians were killed, 30 injured and 200 made homeless. The site was derelict until it was incorporated into the new Mile End Park.
Tram depot. This horse tram depot is shown on maps from the 1890s until after Great War and ran along the south west side of the railway line. It is understood that in the 1920s it was associated with E.A.Lloyds Garage and privately run bus routes.
30 The Railway Tavern. This was a Charrington’s house which was here before 1861. It closed in 2000 and is now housing. What remains are three tiled 'House of Toby' plaques – saying: ‘CHARRINGTONS 1757’ and a 'Toby' image with 'TOBY ALE' and 'THE HOUSE OF TOBY'
51 Mile End Hotel
110 The Victoria. The pub dates from at least the 1870s. It has a clock hanging from a bracket outside
Mile End Bus station

Haverfield Road
This is now a roadway leading into the park.
The Palm Tree. This pub is now within the park but stood originally in Palm Street – which ran in the square to the north. There is a tiled panel above the corner door which says 'TRUMANS' plus a large eagle with 'ESTd 1666'; and the pub name
Mile End Climbing Wall. This opened in the late 1980s and used an old pipe engineering works. Plus the Rock On climbing shop.

Lichfield Road
The Lord Tredegar.  Pub, with his portrait on the inn sign. Lord Tredegar, was once Sir Charles Morgan who owned land here.

Mile End Park
Mile End Park is a new park. However it was part of Patrick Abercrombie's 'Greater London Plan' in 1944. There had been some land clearance by the Greater London Council and this continued after it became the responsibility of London Borough of Tower Hamlets. By the end of the 1980s the section from Mile End Road to Victoria Park was landscaped (this square covered only as far the Palm Tree Pub).  Following calls by for projects to mark the millennium, Tower Hamlets Environment Trust, under John Aldenton, as part of a partnership made a successful application for Millennium funding. Creation of the park began in 1998 and it opened in phases from 2000. The park stretches alongside the Regents Canal from Limehouse to Victoria Park. Although only a few yards across in some places the layout has been created a series of distinct spaces
Ecology Pavilion. This is an earth sheltered building using a heat storage system developed in the Rocky Mountains Research Centre. It has an insulation umbrella made of polystyrene and polythene to create a dry thermal heat store to collect heat created by the occupants, lights, equipment and the sun.  
Lake. There is a high walk around the back of the lake, bounded by tall curved ribs of timber
Wind Turbine. This is a single 6.5 kw wind turbine which is on the island in the ecology lake and powers a sump that circulates water around the lake.
Mile End Arts Pavilion An earth sheltered building like the Ecology Pavilion.

Mile End Road
401 Essex House. This was an 18th mansion, the home of the Morrison family and said to have been built by a Lady Essex. 
Guild of Handcraft. In 1891 Charles Ashbee moved his Guild of Handicraft and the Essex House Press here. He hoped to further the aims of the Arts and Crafts movement by preserving and practising old skills of printing, bookbinding, furniture making and metalwork. It is also where he founded the Survey of London.   After eleven years, the guild moved to the country.
St Philips Settlement.  This was founded in, 1894, by Lady Margaret Howard helped by a group of women including her sister Lady Mary Howard. It moved to 401 Mile End Road in 1903 where there was accommodation for clubs and meetings. This was a Roman Catholic body – the ladies were the sisters of the Duke of Norfolk. It was thus a convent for the Sisters of Charity until 1929
Barclay's Bank leased the building from 1929 until it was taken over by the cinema chain.
Odeon Theatre was built for Oscar Deutsch’s Odeon Theatres chain. It was designed by the Andrew Mather firm, with Keith P. Roberts. It had the distinctive Odeon style tower and cream faïence tiles. It opened in 1938 with Max Miller. It closed in 1972. It was converted into a Sundown concert centre/dancehall which opened in 1972 with Slade. The venture was a failure and it closed in 1973. In1975 it opened as the Liberty screening Bollywood films and finally closed in 1978. It was demolished in 1984 and an office/residential block built on the site.
401 Onyx House. The building is by Piers Gough in 1986. There is s coved cornice free of the parapet which swoops in a deep inverted line through the brick facade to reveal glass curtain walling. This new building has gone through several names includng Kentish House, and Besso House.  The extensive garden to the rear is now the site of flats.

Morgan Street
New Testament Church of God. This was Holy Trinity Church built 1834-9 by Daniel and James Austin, local surveyors. It is on a large site, with its own burial ground. The New Testament church took it over in 1996 after period of redundancy and vandalism.  It was designed as a proprietary chapel, funded by a lawyer, E.A. Dickenson, who hoped to make his son the clergyman. The site was given by the landowner Sir C Morgan. By 1836 Dickenson's money had run out and the church was finished by the Metropolis Churches Fund in 1839 and given its own district in 1841. The church suffered bomb damage during the Blitz and was closed in 1984.
Churchyard with a variety of monuments. It was closed in 1853. A number of sea captains are buried there.
Church Hall of Holy Trinity Church built 1901. This is now the New Testament Church of God.

Railway
Coal depot - A viaduct built in 1852 lay alongside the main line to the south associated with the coal depot. This was to facilitate transshipment of coal from railway to canal for distribution.  The depot was not finished until the mid-1860s and there were five sidings used for servicing movements within it.  The viaduct was bombed in the Second World War – as indeed were other parts of the depot - and rebuilt after it. Parish boundary markers were displayed on the viaduct.  When use as a coal yard ceased it was taken over by Tarmac as a depot for the movement of aggregates.  Up until the 1950s a number of coal merchants were based on various parts of the depot site
Apple Tree Yard. Some of the arches were used as a business and light industrial complex.

Regents Canal
Coal depot. Sidings from the Mile End coal depot spread south during the early part of the 20th fanning out over the area to the north of Mile End Road. Most of this site is now covered by the of halls of residence for Queen Mary College, University of London
Spencer’s works.  Edward Spencer had a saw mills here with a wharf on the canal  based at 81 Longfellow Road (now demolished along with, Longfellow-road) before and during the Great War) 1918. Spencer also made Medical Soaps.
Avon Wharf, Longfellow Road.  This was the veneering factory of John Wright and Sons from the early 20th – they were there until at least the 1950s. They cut veneers to a wide range of specifications and were specialist in aircraft construction and interior decoration.
Railway bridge – this was an iron bridge on the Eastern Counties Railway built in 1839 when the line to Bishopsgate crossed the canal. 
Two boundary stones alongside the towpath almost under the railway bridge. They mark the border between the boroughs of Hackney and Tower Hamlets and date from before 1880. The taller stone has the remains of six lines of writing, but is too worn to be readable.
Mile End Lock. Lock with converted lock cottage. The lock, at this point on the canal, has a drop of eight feet when heading south to Limehouse Basin
Pump House at Mile End Lock, There was a system for back-pumping water up the canal to above Mile End Locks from the canal basin at Limehouse via a 3-foot diameter back-pumping pipe installed in 1898. Attached to the lock cottage here was a single-storey boiler house with a steam pump maintaining the water level in the pound above the locks.  The pipe runs under the towpath from Commercial Road Bridge to the Mile End pound. The pump house has now been demolished.
Lock keepers cottage.  Double fronted 19th building. This is at the east end of the College Campus and had been vacant for some time. The pump house has been demolished and the extension is a series of interlocking forms wrapping around the cottage. This is clad in aluminum rainscreen cladding, which leans out. The ‘North Wing’ projects out over the tow- path, providing the common room with a window overlooking the canal lock. Over the main entrance door is a notice saying Graduate School. The disabled access and cottage are connected via a bridge and staircase formed like a sculptural ‘Tendril’ in the double height foyer. The first floor of the cottage now a single space, with the ceiling opened up to follow the existing roof profile. This space accommodates a seminar room with three original sash windows overlooking the canal. The ground floor is a workroom with two workstations and toilet facilities.
Packing case factory. This was a branch of the packing case manufacturing business of John Wright.
Dust yard. This appears to be part of the Great Eastern coal depot. There was an arrangement for them to take Mile End street sweeping refuse. Possibly for sale on to brick makers.  A dust depot on the site in 1915 belonged to the Metropolitan Borough of Stepney.
Young’s Wharf. This was a chemical works north of the railway
Commercial Wharf. This wharf was used by a variety of manufacturers. In 1854 H.O.Gray was making Crew’s Disinfecting Fluid there – contained chloride of zinc and was said to prevent cholera. At the same time Mr. Gray was inventing methods of preserving potatoes. In the 1880s Gardner Brothers, lightermen and cowkeepers were there. In the 1960s it was used by a fencing manufacturer.

Westfield Way
This is an internal road in the Queen Mary College campus.
Sources
Ackroyd, Dickens’ London
Blacker, Lunn, Westgate. London Buses
Bow Heritage Trail. Bow Planning.
Brewery History Society. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London,
Day. London’s Underground
East London’s Free Art. Web site
Essex Lopresti. The Regents’ Canal
GLIAS Newsletter
Grace’s Guide. Web site
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London,
National Archives. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Smythe. Citywildspace,
Thomas, Ben’s Limehouse.

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford - Mile End

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Great Eastern Railway Line to Ilford
The Great Eastern Railway Line from Bethnal Green Station runs north eastwards

Post to the west Mile End
Post to the north Roman Road Bow

Benworth Street
Flats with a plaque for Poplar Borough Council 1932.

Bow Road
2a St.Clement’s Hospital. This was opened in 1849 by the Board of Guardians as the City of London Union Workhouse and became the Infirmary in 1874.  The design was by Richard Tress and included central heating, a dining- hall, Siberian marble pillars, and a chapel with stained glass windows and an organ. In 1911 it was renamed the Bow Infirmary for the long-term sick  and in 1936 renamed St Clement's Hospital. It was badly damaged by Second World War bombing and some buildings including the chapel were destroyed. It reopened in 1948 and a psychiatric wing was added in 1949. The earliest buildings are these facing Bow Road standing behind a wall. There is a tower over a two-storey block housing offices and a Board Room. On either side were the receiving wards. The boundary wall was added 1896 by Francis Hammond, Architect to the City of London Guardians. It became part of the London Hospital in 1968 and went through various organsational changes until closure in 2005. Following its closure the site was transferred eventually to the Greater London Authority. In June 2012 it was announced that St Clements would become the United Kingdom's first urban Community Land Trust, working in partnership with Linden Homes and Peabody Housing.
Nurses Home of 1937 by London Country Council Architects Department in a Moderne style. Demolished
Workhouse Infirmary this is in a corner of the site in yellow brick with octagonal sanitation towers added 
8 Kings Head Pub. Demolished in the 1970s.
3-23 Coborn Terrace survivors of the earlier suburb set back behind gardens. The first three terraces were built in 1822 on the Morgan and Coborn estates by the Ratcliffe builder, William Marshall. 
Mile End Nursery. This was on the site of 26 and was owned by James Gordon in the 18th. The nursery specialized in rare trees raised from cuttings and seeds brought from many parts of the world.  The first ginko in Britain was raised here in the 1750s.  Gordon also raised important varieties of camellias here. Loudon described many important and unusual trees flourishing here in the 1850s when the nursery was owned by R. Thompson
24 East London Rope Works Ltd. This was to the back of the site and appears to have been present from the 1890s until the Second World War. The firm may have thereafter moved to Hoddesden.
24 David Napthall, cigar manufacturer and insurance agent. He was on the site in the 1920s
24- 26 site of the Convent of the Sisters of Marie Auxiliatrice, who ran St Mary's Home for Working Girls from 1913 to 1923. The convent was destroyed in the Second World War Blitz.
26 Wellington House. Since the Second World War a variety of organisations seem to have been based here and a garage structure has been built in front of what appears to be an older house.   One in particular was Petrolene Oils who in the 1950s were refining and selling Power Petroleum
28 site of the Doric College where deaconesses were trained for missionary nursing as part of the Regions Beyond Missions, supported by the Shaftesbury Society and Dr Grattan Guinness.
25-33 Central Foundation School for Girls.  The schools origins derive from charity schools set up in the 17th and 18th in the City. the Central Foundation Schools of London dated from 1891 and incorporated existing City schools and a new school was based in Spital Square, were, apart from during the Second World War, they remained eventually becoming a Voluntary Aided Grammar School under the 1944 Education Act. In 1975 the Girls’ Grammar School moved from Spital Square to Bow to take over the Coborn Girls’ Grammar School and the Coopers’ Boys Grammar School buildings. The building has a brick and Portland stone façade and a stair tower. There is lettering about the school and a number of plaques. Inside is a lit galleried hall with an open roof and classrooms wrapping round. A Gymnasium was added by George Elkington & Son. And a Laboratory in 1957.
The Coopers' Company's School. In 1536 Nicholas Gibson, Prime Warden of the Grocers' Company 1536-7 and Sheriff of London 1538-9, founded a boys school in Ratcliff Highway and after his death this devolved to the Coopers Company. The school was rebuilt here in the late 18th and the East India Company became involved. In the 1878 the Coopers' Company Girls' School was opened in Mile End Road. Following queries from the Charity Commission the boys moved from Ratcliffe Highway to the Coborn buildings in Tredegar Square, and the two charities merged. In 1975 the school moved to Upminster.
32 Dr.Barnardo lived here 1875-79.  It later became the Servants Free Registry Office and Training Home for Girls, opened in 1884 by Syrie Barnardo, Dr. Barnardo’s wife. This was for girls over 14 in domestic service. It was partly financed from a gift by George Sturge and so was called Sturge House. By 1900, the home and registry had moved to Burdett Road. Mrs Barnardo personally supervised every aspect of their training and kept all the accounts.
35 Connections.  London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Youth employment centre.  In the 1970s this was Croda Agricultural Offices – one of the many sub-companies of Croda, Yorkshire based multi national chemical company.
41-7 Council Offices. This block was built 1938-9 for Spratt's dog biscuit manufacturers probably by Andrews & Gale. Spratts were here between 1939 and 1964 and there is a plaque on the building recording this with their doggie made out of letters logo.  It became the Tower Hamlets Planning office.
49 Phoenix School. Modern additions to the school in Harley Grove.
51 Harley College. Much of the college site is to the rear and in Harley Grove.In 1873 Henry and Fanny Harley started the East London Missionary Training Institute. The school trained 1330 missionaries for 30 societies of 30 denominations. In 1883, it moved to Derbyshire.
Memorial to George Lansbury. This is at the corner with Harley Grove.. The stone describes him as "A great servant of the people." He was elected to parliament in 1911, but resigned his seat on the "Votes For Women" issue and failed to be elected. He was twice Mayor of Poplar. In 1921the council refused to levy high rates on the poor and council members marched to court in a procession, led by the mace-bearer, and accompanied by a band and a banner. 30 councillors were sent to prison for contempt of court. Lansbury was later elected MP and was a Privy Counsellor. He was leader of the Labour Party 1931-35.
Cherrywood Close
Site of J T Davies Ltd rope works entered from Coburn Road.

Coburn Road
Was known as Cut Throat Lane before 1800 and marked the division between the Coborn and Morgan estates: and later the parish and borough boundaries.
63 Vicarage – this is actually for the Bishop of Stepney.
8 The Coborn Arms. Spacious, mid-terrace pub in a residential area.  The open-plan single room is split up by a large bar. Taken over by Youngs in 1984
30 plaque saying that this was Dr. Barnardo's first lodging in London. According to Tom Ridge, the actual house No 33. 30 was once headquarters of the China Inland Mission.
Old Ford Station This was opened in 1865. Built by the Great Eastern Railway on the East side of Coburn Road, half way up.  Opened as ‘Old Ford’ and in 1879 renamed ‘Coburn Road (Old Ford)’ and in 1883 resited along with the widening of the railway.
Coborn Road (Old Ford) Station. This was opened in 1883 as a resiting of the previous Coburn Road (Old Ford) station. The Entrance was on the east side of Grove Road and on the west side of Coburn Road.  It only served the local lines and there were not platforms on the through lines. It closed 1916-1919 and finally closed in 1946 – it was supposed to have been closed earlier but the delay to the Shenfield Electrification also delayed its closure.  In the 1990s a bricked up doorway in Coburn Road and parts of the down platforms were still in place.
Coborn Road Signal Box. This was on a gantry above the tracks and dated from 1884

Coburn Street
The Kirtland Centre. This is the old Postal Sorting Office built in 1912 by the Office of Works.  It currently houses a ‘free school’ owned by the Constable Education Trust.  The Kirkland Centre was part of Tower Hamlets Mencap Society,
Malmesbury Primary Schools. School Board for London school opened as Malmesbury Road School in 1912. Renamed Malmesbury School in 1951

Eric Street
Telephone Exchange by the Office of Works
Electrodrome Cinema. This opened in the 1910’s as Forrest’s Electrodrome and was taken over by Sydney Bernstein in 1920. It closed in 1940

Harley Grove
Harley Grove was the site of Harley House and Harley College where the Regions Beyond Missionary Union trained its missionaries for Africa and the Far East. Harley College also taught foreign languages. Deaconesses were trained as nurses for both local and missionary
Central Foundation Girls School. Harley Grove site. This part of the site was where Coborn School had been.  The main building is now new build from 1997 by Tower Hamlets Building Services in pale brick. It has a linear plan with a curved two-storey centre with a circular atrium inside. The former Coborn Girls School was the late 19th successor to a charity school founded at Bow. Coburn School was designed and built by George Elkinton the surveyor to Bermondsey vestry. The Central Foundation School moved here in 1975 from Spital Square, and took over the site when the Spitalfields when the Coopers'& Coborn Schools moved to Upminster. Lively and striking Neo-Jacobean.  Prisca Coborn (or Coburne) nee Forster, who inherited a fortune from her husband, Thomas Coborn, a wealthy brewer of Bow.
49 Phoenix School. Built 1951-2 by Farquharson & McMorran as a London County Council open-air school, and now used for special needs children. Copper-roofed brick buildings set in peaceful, green surroundings and linked by covered walkways. There are reliefs of the Four Seasons by Steven Sykes.  To the rear is an assembly hall opening into a garden, with an Italian stone well-head. Additions of 1996 by Lister, Grillet and Hording,
Bow Open Air School was previously on the site of Phoenix School and had been built in the grounds of Harley House for delicate children. The building was wood and had no heating. It was destroyed by Second World War bombing.
Wara Sikh Sangat. This is a Sikh temple in a former chapel of 1854-5. In 1927 it became Mile End and Bow Great Synagogue and a Sikh temple in 1979. Inside The Gallery, is on slim iron columns, and was rebuilt by the synagogue as a ladies' gallery in 1927, with named and numbered seats. A place for the Ark remains inside.
Church Hall– this was enlarged in 1876 as a Sunday school and later became a Talmud Torah.



Merchant Street
Takes its name from the Merchant Seamen's Orphanage Asylum, which was on this site. The Asylum dated from a public meeting in 1827 and the establishment of two houses for the orphaned children of merchant seamen. In 1834 financial problems led to it being re-launched as a Church of England foundation and a house in Bow was acquired and a fund raising campaign began. By 1852 they were housing 116 children although many more were applying to enter. The lease of the house expired in 1862 and the landlord would neither renew it nor sell the house to the Foundation. After more fund raising a new house was built at Snaresbrook.
Bow Road Methodist Church. This is a modern church building sits on the foundations of an earlier church destroyed by bombing.  It dates from 1951 by Alick Gavin of Paul Mauger & Partners and was the first bombed Methodist church to be rebuilt after the Second World War.
Bow Road Wesleyan Methodist Church was founded by the Reverend Alexander McAulay, who began preaching from his home in 1861. The church was built to look like a Roman temple by W. W. Pocock, was opened in 1865. It suffered bomb damage in 1940, and was subsequently rebuilt,
Wesley Hall and Macaulay Memorial Schools. Built in 1891 by B.J. Capell of Whitechapel. This is now a doctors' surgery with an entrance at the side,
Chapel keeper's house
 
Mural called 'Community Fragments. This one of only a few murals which have survived from the late 1970s and are quite faded. It was begun in 1978 when Richard Smith of the Bow Mission approached Ray Walker to paint a mural to ‘brighten up a drab wall which faces a new estate’. The resulting mural shows people working, playing, feeding, visiting the doctor and attending school. It has been repaired once by artist David Bratby in the 1980s but hasn’t been touched otherwise.

Mile End Road
This is the A11 – the ancient route from London into Essex
560 Electric Theatre. This was opened in 1910 designed by Saville & Martin and was operated by United Electric Theatres Ltd. In 1918, it was re-named La Boheme Cinema, and there was a banqueting suite and cafe in an adjoining building - by 1937, this was a dance hall. The cinema was taken over by Capitol & Provincial News Theatres Ltd. And it was re-named Vogue Cinema in 1940. It was badly damaged by bombing in 1942 and its ruins were removed in a road widening scheme. The dance hall remained to the mid-1990’s was a gay disco named Benjys and is still a nightclub.
562 Suede -night club and shisha bar.
568 betting shop in old Barclays Bank branch
580 Mile End Station. Opened in 1902 it now lies between Bethnal Green and Stratford on the Central Line and between Bow Road and Stepney Green on the District and Hammersmith and City Lines. It opened as part of the ‘Whitechapel and Bow’ railway on a line serving as a link between the Metropolitan District Line services, which had previously terminated at Whitechapel,  and overground rail services that operated from Bromley By Bow. It was then to be called ‘Burdett Road’ but changed to Mile End because it was thought to be confusing. These original tracks are now used by the District and Hammersmith and City Line services from the station  In 1930 it was rebuilt as art of the Central Line works and in 1946 the Central Line Station opened having started before the Second World War. The surface station was rebuilt for the Central Line in the flat Portland stone style based on Holden's designs of the early 1930s. The Central Line comes to the surface here to give an easy interchange with the District.  
588 Zains Restaurant. This was previously a pub which appears to have been originally called the Cornucopia. A pub here dates from at least the 1880s and in the 1940s was a Taylor Walker of Limehouse house. The current building appears to be part of the development of the Eric Estate in the late 1960s. It was renamed several more times.  By 1974 it had been rebuilt as part of the development of the adjoining Eric Estate.  By 1983 it was called the Horn of Plenty, later the Flautist & Firkin as one of the Firkin chain.  For a while it was A Matter of Time, in 2007 it was Virtue and in 2008 Milestone.  In 2010 it closed to become a restaurant.
403 Support Company 4th Battalion, The Royal Green Jackets, TA Centre. The TA in Tower Hamlets has its origins in the Trained Bands of 1643. In 1794 the Trained Bands were reorganised and each hamlet had its own company. In 1874 the various Tower Hamlets Volunteers amalgamated to form the Tower Hamlets Volunteer Brigade, and finally became the Territorial Army in 1908
403-405 site of Deaconess House in 1879, opened by Dr and Mrs Barnardo. The Deaconesses were Evangelical ladies who resided at Barnardo's Deaconess House which was here from 1879 to 1898.
405 Gateway `Housing Association.
Gateway Homes began as Bethnal Green Housing Association in 1926 and works predominately in Tower Hamlets. Their main offices here have an entrance in Rhondda Grove.
Morgan Street
Central Foundation Girls School (Upper School). This was built as the Coopers' Company Boys School in 1909 by Figgis & Munby.  It was built on the site of the Stepney Grammar School of c. 1878 which was inherited by the Coopers Company when they amalgamated in 1891 with the Coborn Girls School as the Stepney & Bow Foundation. The facade to College Terrace has a carved frieze by E. Whimey Smith. The stair towers have stained glass with the Coopers' Company arms
43 Morgan Arms rebuilt by Hammock & Lambert in 1891 with red -terracotta detail. It has considerable pretensions

Tredegar Square
The square was built as part a development from the late 18th on the land of Sir Charles Morgan of Tredegar. It was begun in 1822 when Morgan leased 45 acres to a local bricklayer Daniel Austin for a housing development. Tredegar Square was laid in 1828 out Austin was bankrupt in 1829 and the rest of the square was sub.
Gardens. In 1888 the central garden was only a simple system of paths round a rectangle but it was later laid out with a large central circle. A grant of £830 came from King George's Fields Foundation and the gateposts on the north side have plaques which reflect this grant. There are some trees including lime, locust, sycamore and London planes.
14 home of Alexander McAulay who set up the Bow Mission and came to live here
24 this was St Philip's House, the first Catholic settlement in the East End which later moved to Essex House.
25-26 In the 1830s this was the home of William Ephraim   Snow, surgeon to the Spanish and Portuguese Jews Hospital


Sources
Ackroyd. Dickens’ London
Bow Heritage Trail. Bow Planning.
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London,
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford.
Day. London’s Underground
East London’s Free Art. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Mural Preservation Society. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Merchant Seamen’s Educational Foundation. Web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London,
National Archives. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Smythe. Citywildspace,
St.Clement’s  Hospital. Wikipedia. Web site
Thomas, Ben’s Limehouse.

Great Eastern Rail Line to Ilford. Roman Road Bow

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Great Eastern Line to Ilford
The Great Eastern line from Bethnal Green Station runs north eastwards

Post to the south Mile End
Post to the east Old Ford

Anglo Road
112 The Lord Cardigan Pub. Dates from 1860s.


Ordell Road
22 Ordell Arms. This pub dated from at least the 1870s but closed in 2001 and converted to housing.
Tredegar Works. This site in the 19th was used by Perry & Co. undertakers of large scale construction projects who also had a saw mill here.  In the 1960s it was a transport depot for Kearley and Tonge, chain of small supermarkets who had a depot on the site responsible for the maintenance of 137 vehicles and 13 trailers and servicing for the 117 vehicles and 40 trailers in their fleet. It was later used by Stanton Rubber and Plastic who left in 2003 since when it has been used for housing.

Roman Road
Old Ford's principal shopping street, so-named since the 1860s when Roman remains were first discovered at its end close to the site of the 'old ford' across the River Lea.
Market – This began in 1869s,
Washing strong across lines in the street. This art work was part of an improved lighting scheme in 2006.
490 John Bull Pub. This pub dated from at least 1850 and was a Taylor Walker house. It closed in 1996 and is now a shop.
Bow Baths, now demolished. Stood in what is now Roman Road Market. There were slipper baths, a swimming pool and public laundry, as well as a hall for community meetings. The suffragettes held many demonstrations there. It was on the site of a previous timer yard and saw pits.
516-517 Muslim Community Centre, Established 2000.
527 The Trader. This pub was called the Needle Gun and dated from 1872 in an older building. It was a Taylor Walker house and renamed in the 1990s. It closed in 2009.
568a pawnbrokers shop in what appears to be a rebuild using the front of the Bow North Congregational Chapel
580-586 Match Maker Pub. Now closed. It was a Wetherspoons pub and is now a discount shop. Before Wetherspoons took it on it was an indoor market and before that a Caters supermarket.  On the side wall in Cardigan Street there is what appears to be an art work on a concrete panel above a door.
599 The Ranelagh Arms. This pub was here before 1860.  It was a Courage house and closed in 2000.  It is now a shop.
612 Rose of Denmark. This pub closed in 2006 and is now a shop. It was there before 1870 and was a Watney’s house, sold to Belhaven in 1990. 
Ideas Store– this was Passmore Edwards Public Library built 1901. of Bow, but is now known as the Ideas Store. There are cherubs over the main entrance and the original name plaque remains is on the corner of the building. It has been refurbished inside by Bissett Adams in 2002


Rosebank Gardens
May Lion Liquid Soap works, post Second World War


Selwyn Road
Selwyn Green. Small green space reclaimed as part of regeneration of local housing.


Saxon Road
Saxon Lea Court . This was St Stephen’s National Schools built by James Tolley in 1859 with an extension from 1893-4 by G.E. Holman. It is now flats. The foundation stone of the extension was laid in 1893 by the Duchess of Teck. 

St Stephen's Road
The area was thoroughly cleared of its c 19 housing and industry from the 1960s, principally by the LCC and GLC, frustrated by the slow progress of Poplar Borough's own rehousing programme.
55Ritz Cinema.  This was near the corner with Roman Road. It opened as the in Old Ford Picture Palace in 1910. In 1937, it was re-named Ritz Cinema Cinemascope was installed in the mid-1950’s and it was enlarged. It closed in 1961 and converted into a bingo club, but the building was burnt down a month later.  The site is now housing.
74 The Albert. Pub.
St Paul’s Church. This was built in 1878 by Newman & Billing. The Foundation stone was laid by J.D. Allcroft, Chairman of the Building Committee. It was disused for ten years until funds became available in 2003 for a conversion to mixed use. This was through ‘A New Heart for Bow’ project and undertaken Matthew Lloyd Architects and £3.3 million was fund raised. The result is a refurbished building with four floors of facilities for the whole community.
103 Brine’s wood factory. This was the home of the Lansbury family, until 1920. The timber yard belonged to Bessie Lansbury's father. The yard was renamed the Russian Veneer factory around 1921, but the business later failed.


Stafford Road
Third Base. Tower Hamlets Pupil Referral Unit


Tredegar Road
64 Tregedars. Cash and Carry warehouse in the silk mill and warehouse buildings
Silk mill. A silk mill was built here in 1873 for Stephen Walters & Sons described as a manufacturer of ‘umbrella, tie, velvet and garment silks’, with London offices in Wilson Street. They later moved outside London to various sites including Sudbury
Tilley, Carr & Co. warehouse and office block
Drill Hall. In 1908, the 17th (County of London) Battalion, The London Regiment (Poplar & Stepney Rifles), was formed by the amalgamation of two local Volunteer Corp one of which was the 2nd Tower Hamlets Volunteer Rifle Corps. Their Drill Hall was here and they recruited throughout Tower Hamlets. They fought in the Great Bar and fought their first battle in the coalfields at Loos and went on to much more. In the 1920s, with the re-establishment of the Territorial Army they were reduced to one battalion. In 1937 they war renamed as the Tower Hamlets Rifles, The Rifle Brigade (Prince Consorts Own).  During the Second World War, they fought in the Middle East, French North Africa and Italy. In 1947 the Tower Hamlets Rifles ceased to exist as a separate unit, when it became the 625 LAA Regiment RA (Rifle Brigade). Between the wards the Drill Hall was used for major boxing matches and was bombed in the Second World War. It was replaced by the Royal Mail sorting office.
Bow Royal Mail sorting office
St Stephens Church. This was constructed in 1858 and destroyed by bombing during the Second World War. the parish was united with the parish of Saint Paul, in 1961.

Wrights Road
Wrights Road Community Centre.


Sources
Bow Trail,
CAMRA. City and east London beer guide,
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
East London History Society Newsletter
Free Art in East London. Web site
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site/
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Pubs. Web site
Nairn. Nairn’s London
Pevsner and Cherry, East London
Poplar and Stepney Rifles. Web site
St.Paul’s. Web site
TourEast Leaflet
Victoria County History,

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Stratford

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Great Eastern Railway to Ilford
The Great Eastern Railway from Stratford Station runs north eastwards through Maryland Station and onwards


Post to the west Stratford

Bryant Street
Bryant Street Methodist Church and Community Centre. The church began in 1884 when a mission was set up following a visit by Moody and Sankey. About 300 men formed the Mizpah band, and with the Young Men's Christian Association built a hall on a site given by a Miss Eccles. This was taken over in 1934 by the Methodist Church but in 1944 the Church, Conference Hall and Y.M.C.A were destroyed by bombing. The main site is now occupied by the Police Station. All that remained is the Main Hall, with a memorial plaque to the dead of the Great War – and that still stands. It had been a hospital in the Great War and became the church after the bombing. In 1964 a new church with ancillary buildings and a hostel were built. However membership declined and money was scarce. Wesley House was set up as a student hostel in 1965/66.  A community project was set up in 1977 and the church was a pioneer in the Night Shelter movement, for the homeless.

Carnarvon Road
50 Stratford Vicarage
Carter Patterson’s Depot at the Romford Road end of the road on the east side from the 1920s until at least the mid-1960s.
Stratford Hall. This 19th house stood on the corner with Romford Road. It was demolished in 1921.  A summerhouse in the garden may have been older


Cedars Road
Radha Krishna Temple. This is in a series of buildings which are partly a converted chapel. 33 The Centre was founded in 1967 to provide a Hindu Religious, philosophical and cultural Centre. The presiding deity is Radha Krishna but other deities of Lakshmi Narayan, Durga Mata, Ram Darbar, Holy Shiv-Ling, Shri Ganesha ji, Baba Balak Nath and Hanuman ji have also be established.
University of East London. Part of the university complex dominates this small road. It is on the site of the barracks which fronted onto The Green

Deanery Road
System House. Built in 1910 as public offices by John Morley. Built for Customs and Excise and became the local Inland Revenue office. This is now offices for local organizations.
2a Lyon House. Physiotherapy and midwifery centre. Pevsner says it looks like a prefab canteen.  In the past used by WRVS.
22 Newtec, an education and training institute for women which continues the tradition of educational establishments in the area. Its present form results from the extension and re-cladding of a 1960’s block. It was carried out in1994-6 to a design by Cazenove Architects Cooperative. Walls faced by plywood panels sit within an exposed timber frame. The taller block at the east end is covered by a curved stainless steel roof. This also houses a Children’s Centre
Trade School. This was a municipal technical college which opened in 1898.  In 1936 it opened a trade school for girls in Deanery Road and a brass plate describes its opening. It was rebuilt in 1949 as the West Ham technical school or girls.This was renamed Deanery grammar school in1 959, and in 1961 amalgamated with Stratford Green girls secondary modern school to form Deanery High School.
Stratford Green Secondary School. Water Lane board school, Stratford, was opened in 1897 and was reorganised in 1945 as a secondary modern school renamed Stratford Green School in 1949. Stratford Green boys’ school moved in 1958 and Stratford Green girls’ school remained in Water Lane and in 1961 amalgamated with the adjoining Deanery grammar school to form Deanery high school.
Sarah Bonnel School. This began as a charity school in 1777, after Sarah Bonnell left £3,500 for a school for poor girls in West Ham. The first school was in a building opposite West Ham Church and called Mrs. Bonnell's School. By 1834, there were 140 pupils and the school continued to expand. In 1873 the name was changed to West Ham High School for Girls and it also moved to West Ham Lane as an independent, fee-paying school which also took junior boys, in 1905 it moved to a large, building in The Grove and ceased to be independent. In 1944 became again Sarah Bonnell Grammar School and moved, this time to St. George's Road, Forest Gate.  In 1972 it became comprehensive as Sarah Bonnell Comprehensive School and moved to Deanery Road, in buildings that previously called Deanery High School for Girls and Stratford Green Secondary School. In 1993, the Technology Village was opened by The Prince of Wales.  Since 2003 it has been a Language College, and continues to maintain the links with Sarah Bonnell's endowment

Dormer Close
Built on the gardens of what was Stratford Vicarage
Park Community Centre

Edward Temme Avenue
Edward Temme was born in Stratford and was the first man to swim the channel in both directions

Evesham Road
Gladstone Hall. HQ of West Area Newham Scout Group.

Grove Crescent road
St. Francis of Assisi. This was originally the church of St. Vincent de Paul opened in 1868, with a school-hall below., said to be by architect EW Pugin but this is now thought to be a mistake.  It has a classical brick façade with stucco centre brought forward and two towers. In 1873 it was taken over by the Franciscan Friars Minor who changed the name and enlarged it. The 1931 sanctuary 1931 has 16th painting of St Francis by Bartolommeo Carducci Looted from church in Spain by Napoleon and brought to England and later loaned to the church. A new sanctuary was added in 1931 and in 1978 the sacristy was adapted to serve as a weekday chapel. The carved and painted Stations of the Cross date from 1932.
Jewson store. Site of congregational chapel. This originated in 1861, when an existing congregation planned a new church here but then withdrew. The scheme continued under William Settles, and a church was built in 1866. It was called 'Settles ‘Folly', but flourished. And Missions were opened. By 1941the congregation had dwindled and the main building was abandoned. In 1948 it was sold and became a furniture factory, but down in 1952, and demolished.

Knox Road
The Gurney School. A school for children unable to attend ordinary school for mental or physical was opened by the council in 1920. In 1949 it was renamed The Gurney School. It was designed for open air teaching, and in 1925 the Crosby Road open air school was opened on the same site for delicate girls and in 1932 it also took boys. It was closed in 1946 and all delicate children sent to Fyfield.


Leytonstone Road
This area first developed as Maryland Point, described by Defoe as new' in the 1720s.
Police Horse Patrol Office. In the early 19th this was on the site later used by the church.
Trinity church. This stood on the north east corner with Forest Road and was founded in 1863 by Andrew Black, of the United Presbyterian Church. It was a brick and stone Gothic.  From 1906 the church was declining, and in 1941 it was closed. The building became a factory and burnt down in 1953. A tower of flats and shops was built on the site in 1963
Church hall built in 1864 and survived after the church burnt down.
Sewer Vent Column. Large and ornamental; made by McFarlane, Saracen Foundry, Glasgow.
Time Spiral. This was originally to the alighted to the west of the Airy Meridian. It is by Malcolm Robertson as a focal point at the northern end of Stratford Interchange.  The spiral was conceived around the theme of travel. The clock is central and originally proposed seating was replaced with mosaic designs showing the points of the compass and signs of the zodiac. It was moved here in 2010 because of the need for pedestrian access to the new Westfield Centre.
Maryland Station.  The station lies between Manor Park and Stratford on the Great Eastern Railway. It was originally known as Maryland Point Station opened in 1873. It was rebuilt in 1891 when the line was quadrupled and called Maryland from 1940.
Cart and Horses. An early pub was on this site in 1805 moving here from a site in The Grove, and was rebuilt in 1880. The Iron Maiden band started here with their first gigs in 1976.

Manby Park Road
Public baths demolished 1936.  Replaced by Boardman’s furniture depository. The site is now flats.

Matthews Park Avenue
Park Primary School. The primary school was opened in 1889, as a three-storey board school. It was reorganized in 1934 for juniors and infants.

Meeson Road
All Saints Mission Hall built 1884.  This is now the Chinese Ethics Association.

Park Avenue
St. Francis's Roman Catholic primary school, originated about 1816, when the parish priest, opened a school in High Street, adjoining the Catholic Church. This school moved in 1870 to Grove Crescent Road, next to the new church there. Later the children moved to Park Avenue where the school remained there until the early 1970's when it moved to Maryland Park and became St. Francis Catholic Voluntary Aided Primary School. The film director Alfred Hitchcock attended this school

Romford Road,
Romford Road is thought to preserve the line of one of the earliest Roman roads, which went from London to Colchester, the first Roman capital. There have been relevant finds outside the Fire Station in 1964, at number 30 in 1987 and Roman metalling has been found on the road
1-9 Young and Martin, builders’ merchants. This was on the corner site – roughly where the Ibis Hotel stands.  There building was angled to the corner with ‘Caledonian Works’ wrote over the door and a Frieze over the first floor windows.  There was a dome over the shop. Behind was their Caledonian Works. Founded in 1872 they made joinery and leaded lights and at one time special grates – and were large enough to have their own railway sidings.
2 St. John’s House.  House built in the mid 19th in brick. Used as offices.
27 This was St John’s Institute, a club for working men. It was built 1904-5 by EM Thomas & Co to the design of W. Henden Winder. It has a decorative entrance bay with a small dome
30 The Old Dispensary.  18th timber-framed, weather boarded house. This was a Dispensary in the 1870s used by Dr William Elliott of the West Ham Union. It is now used as Council offices and a visitor centre
54- 56 houses from the mid 18th
58 the 19th property here was demolished and replica built in the 1990’s
60 - 62, early 19th semi-detached villas,
76 Vicarage Terrace was built in the early 19th
West Ham Technical Institute. This was built on Stratford Common, in 1895-8 by, Gibson and Russell, employed an eclectic, imposing mix of architectural styles. Every conceivable motif is used which is available.  On the façade a frieze of figures illustrate science and the arts while Truth and Beauty carry the canopy to the main entrance. The Water Lane entrance was rebuilt following war damage Hall and has an eagle motif. Became North East London Polytechnic and now the University of East London.
Passmore Edwards Museum.  This was opened in 1900 by the Countess of Warwick following an agreement between the West Ham Council and Essex Field Club.  Passmore Edwards himself donated £3,000 and £1,000 and laid the foundation stone in 1900.  The philanthropist is commemorated on a bronze panel by HC Fehr above the entrance. The Museum was closed in the 1990s and Essex Field Club exhibits were removed. It now houses the Student Union for the University of East London.
88 The original house here was demolished for the building of the West Ham electricity showrooms in 1930. West Ham Council obtained powers to supply electricity throughout the borough in 1892 and by 1926 had the largest municipal electricity undertaking in London. Electricity was promoted to attract new industry to the borough. They opened their s first electricity supply showrooms here in the 1920’s and replaced them 1927- 1930 by the office building which remains.  This is now housing.
92 Highway Church. Highway’s origins date back to the 1880s where a series of ‘revival meetings’ were held in Stratford by the Americans D.L. Moody and I. Sankey. Out of this mission a conference hall was built in Bryant Street which was meant to remain a non-denominational mission to the East End of London. In the early 1930s Mr Leopold Harris, a managing director of a soap company, took over as Superintendant of the hall but left following a dispute about spiritual direction. He was asked to continue his interest with mission work and his group me met in various halls until they bought 90-92 Romford Road and Highway hall was built and opened in 1936.
Bow County Court. This was designed by H.M. Office of Works in 1957-9. The front is surmounted by the Royal Coat of Arms
110 this was a chapel for the Presbyterian Church of Wales (Calvinistic Methodists). It was built in 1894 and was closed after bombing in 1940. It later became a bedding factory.
110-118 this was Mattisons hotel bed factory on the site of a former chapel.  Mattisons are now based in Ipswich and flats were built on the site in 2008
120 Pigeons Hotel. Was once called Two Pigeons. The pub had a drinking trough and water pump nearby and is shown on early maps as serving travellers and drovers.  It was rebuilt in 1898 and, an engraved granite pillar says “Henry Poston Architect and C.E. Todd Builders here was a billiard saloon in the back and a British Billiard Champion played here.  Rebuilt 1898. It is now a shop and flats.
117 Fire Station. This was built in 1964 to replace a predecessor at West Ham Town Hall.
West Ham Baths. This complex was opened in 1934 with three pools, Turkish baths and bathrooms. It was used for boxing, wrestling, dancing. It is now known as the Atherton Leisure Centre, been rebuilt and is run by Greenwich Leisure Ltd

Tennyson Road
70 Tennyson Stores. This was run as a pub in the 1940s.
School Buildings. This was originally Stratford grammar school which had originated in 1906 as West Ham Municipal Central Secondary (mixed) School opened here in buildings planned by the school board as a higher elementary school.  Between the two world wars its reputation was very high and 'central' was dropped from its name in 1925. It was partly destroyed by bombing in 1941, and then renamed Stratford grammar school in 1945. In 1958 it moved and Stratford Green boys’ school was transferred to the site. This was closed in 1965.  The buildings are now part of Newham College of Further Education.

The Green
37- 49 Headquarters of the Territorial Association. The "neo-Gothic" Artillery House and the barracks site has been covered by the expanded premises of the North East London Polytechnic, now University of East London. It began as Volunteer forces were raised during the Napoleonic Wars. At least seven batteries of artillery were stationed there from 1874 to 1964.  The Artillery Depot remained here until 1960.

The Grove
148 Goldengrove Wetherspoons' Pub opened in 1993. The name is a reference to a poem by Gerard Manley Hopkins.
121-123 Stratford Health Centre. Built in 1886 this was the James Dace, Piano warehouse, and in 1893 used by Joseph Young, pianoforte manufacturers, until about 1908 and from 1965-71 it was a store for Optical Products Ltd.
The Grove Picture Theatre opened in 1910. A central pay box had been added letting out onto the street, with entrance doors on each side. Alterations were made in 1929 by A. Smith and it was equipped for sound films. Known as the Grove Cinema, it went through several owners, closing in 1930. Always independently operated, the Grove Cinema was finally closed in 1940. It was used as a factory, and then stood derelict. In the late-1990’s, the building was restored and converted into a medical centre
119 The Lord Henniker Pub, also called the Coronet. This was a Charrington’s house which was there in 1862 and closed in 2003.  The premises are now offices and shops.
109 Stratford Advice Arcade.  Facilities under one roof. This was previously offices for North East London Polytechnic.
Stratford House. This stood on the site now covered by Great Eastern Road.  Home of Lord Henniker, who was an extensive land-owner in the area. This house was "a substantial mansion” demolished in the 19th
87 The site it is under Morrison’s. But this was the birthplace in 1844 of Poet and Jesuit Gerard Manley Hopkins. He was born in 1844 at 87 The Grove, since bombed and demolished. There is a memorial to him unveiled in 1994 outside the Library – which quotes lines from “The Wreck of the Deuchesland” – the nuns commemorated in the poem were laid out in the Friary opposite and buried locally
Central Baptist church. The church was found in 1852. The land was bought for the church in 1854 and the church built. It has had twenty Ministers since its inception in 1852 and continues.
Methodist Church. In 1868 the Stratford circuit was founded and a church built in The Grove in 1871 plus a schoolroom in 1873. It was the leading Wesleyan church in the area for many years. The Stratford Conference Hall was built as a non-denominational space but in 1934 it joined the Methodists as part of the London Mission (West Ham). Both buildings were bombed in 1940 and demolished in 1953.
Gardens. There were originally gardens on the south side where a number of monuments stood. They have been replaced by Morrison’s and the Ibis Hotel.
Peace Sculpture. This is now outside Morrison's but it was originally in the gardens here. It was commissioned by the London Borough of Newham to commemorate the International Year of Peace in 1984. Three figures are together supporting the earth, Destroying any one would cause the world to fall.
Memorial to Edith S. Kerrison, the first woman to serve on the West Ham council. There is also a small inscription near the base saying that this monument is placed in a garden but it is now outside the library.
Newham Municipal Offices.  These stood here from 1976 to 1997. It had a ziggurat shape as an attempt to break away from the monotony of some office architecture. It was designed by Kenneth Lund. Borough Architect for Newham. There were supposed to be two ziggurats but only one was built with an 80ft aluminum clad chimney behind. Demolished. 
Sarah Bonnell Grammar School for Girls, dates from the 18th . In 1905 it moved from a site in West Ham Lane to a new school in the Grove, as West Ham High School for Girls.  The school was destroyed by bombing during the Second World War and the school was relocated,
95 School Board offices. This building dated from 1897 as School Board Offices and also housed the Borough Treasurer's Department as well as the Education Department. Demolished.
Stratford Library. Built to replace the Water Lane Library and attract teenagers by playing lots of loud pop music.
Stratford Morrison’s supermarket160 The Friary. This was established in a pair of 19th houses behind St. Francis of Assisi church and facing The Grove. They were extended in Gothic style in 1876

Tramway Avenue
Cut between Broadway and West Ham Lane for the trams. In 1903 West Ham Corporation took over all the North Metropolitan Tram Company's lines within the borough, extended and electrified them. A new road, Tramway Avenue, was cut through from the Broadway to West Ham Lane. In 1937–40 the trams were replaced by trolley buses, which remained in use until 1960.
Vaughan Road
St. Matthew’s church began around 1891, when the vicar of All Saints, opened a mission here. A flint and brick church was built in 1896.  It is described as a church on the Evangelical wing of the Church of England

Vicarage Lane
This was once known as Jackass Lane. The Vicarage for the parish church of All Saints was here until 1856.
59 Bay Tree Hotel. Pub dates back at least to the 1860s
Vicarage Lane Community Centre
Mission Hall. About 1900 St. Matthew's Church, Vaughan, opened a mission here. This was destroyed by bombing in the Second World War and the site was sold in 1951

Victoria Street
Streimer (Nougat) Ltd.  Nougat factory founded by a Morris Streimer, a Jewish immigrant from Austria. His works was originally in the High Street and Ward Road E.15. They moved to Victoria Street in 1936. The site is now flats.
57a Unitas Works, United Paint Co. Ltd.  Thus company made a large range of paints emulsion, stone finish, gloss, etc. They were in which had once been stables and part of the complex owned by the North Metropolitan Tramways from the 1880's. It is said that some of the stable fittings were still in place. The site is now flats.

Water Lane
The site of the present University and Library complex, between Romford Road and The Green, was originally the broader westernmost end of a wedge-shaped piece of common land running along the northern side of Romford Road. The common was in the early 19th and was later known as Stratford Green.  In the mid 19t this was a square area surrounded by a narrow belt of trees and containing a small pond
University of East London. The university has grown from locally based educational institutions. In 1892 the County Borough of West Ham established a technical institute which provided courses in science, engineering and art with University of London external degrees in science and engineering. Essex County Council established colleges in Walthamstow and Dagenham and in the 1970s the three colleges merged to create the North east London Polytechnic. In 1988, this became the Polytechnic of East London in 1989 and in 1992 the University of East London.  It has gradually centralised its work around the Stratford area and the new Docklands campus while closing the old Essex sites. They have since got themselves a coat of arms and a set of ‘academic dress’.
Stratford ‘Campus’ University of East London. .In this area it is on the site of the barracks and Artillery House as well as some of the West Ham municipal buildings. It is centered around University House, which appears to be the buildings of the old West Ham Tec’. This has had a great deal of refurbishment and rebuilding which includes a new Library and Learning Centre, laboratories and computing facilities, and new buildings housing the Cass School of Education and Communities and the Centre for Clinical Education in Podiatry, Physiotherapy and Sports Science.
Stratford Library.  The library was built by West Ham Borough Council and called Central Library, forming part of a complex comprising, library, Municipal College and the Passmore Edwards Museum.  The funds used to build it were the excise duties from the ECA.  There was a Competition for the building and it opened in 1898.  It faces Water Lane with three semicircular pediments and a domed tower. Figures of children enliven its frieze. The Interior survives complete and the main space has decorative barrel roof and coloured plaster reliefs. The glass screens and bookshelves also survive.  The woodwork was specially prepared in Aberdeen. 
Shakespeare Statue. A Coade stone sculpture dated 1846, is believed to have been transferred from the Haymarket here in 1923
Estate agent’s shop– this was a single storey butchers shop and is thus decorated with stucco bull’s heads
Manby Arms pub
St. Helen's House. This had been founded in 1896 through St. Margaret's House, Bethnal Green. In 1931 it moved to Water Lane and After the Second World War was reconstituted as Dockland settlement No. 9.  It was connected to the Tom Allen club and by 1969 St. Helen's House being their warden’s residence. It has since been demolished.
Water Lane board school. This was opened in 1897 and included a deaf and dumb centre, a pupil-teacher centre, and offices. It was reorganized in 1945 as a secondary modern school and eventually became part of Deanery High School, now Sarah Bonnell School.

Welfare Road
This was previously called Union Road.
Brickfield House. This was founded in 1662 following demands for an oath of allegiance by Charles II in 1660. By 1672 there were two Presbyterian groups in Salway Place. In 1773 Negotiations began for land at 'Brickfields for Stratford Independent Church and a building and graveyard were opened in 1776. 1802 an Independent Girls School was opened.  In 1875 they joined the London Congregational Union and the church was partly rebuilt in 1896. West Ham Council took over the graveyard in 1912 and then the chapel was badly damaged during the Second World War.  After the war the membership shrank to only a few people but in 1986 the church was refurbished, the graveyard levelled and a Children’s Centre developed. A lot of work went in to getting converts and appealing to young people and into community interaction.  However since 2008 the church is no longer used by United Reform members but by Portuguese and Kenyan congregations
Newham College of Further Education.This was established here by London Borough of Newham in 1985, the result of a merger between East Ham Technical College and West Ham Further Education College. The buildings are on the site of what were Stratford Green Boys School and predecessor schools based in Tennyson Road and also of West Ham College.

West Ham Lane
18 Stratford Police Station
25 Princess of Wales. Pub
29-35 East Thames Housing Group in new build offices. Originally this was East Thames Housing Association
44 This was an old police station, which became a lodging house. Since demolished.
Conference hall. This was on the site of the police station. It originated in 1884 as the result of a visit of the American evangelists Moody and Sankey. Subsequently the Young Men's Christian Association built a hall seating 1,600 on a site given by a Miss Eccles. in 1941 the main hall the main hall was destroyed in the blitz but in the early 1960s a small church was built behind the hall site.
Queen Mary's Hospital for the East End.The West Ham, Stratford and South Essex Dispensary was opened in July 1861 by a local doctor, William Elliot at 30 Romford Road given by Mrs. Curtis.  These premises were top small and Mrs. Curtis then gave land in West Ham Lane.  The new two storey Dispensary opened in 1879 with a consulting room, an ophthalmic dark room and a dispensing room. Funds were raised for a new building next door and The West Ham, Stratford and South Essex Hospital and Dispensary, was opened by the Duke of Westminster in 1890.  It was to be used mainly for accident cases. The old Dispensary became the new Out-Patients Department. In 1894 John Passmore Edwards laid the foundation stone for a new wing having donated £3000 towards its costs.  It was renamed West Ham Hospital and an annexe for nursing accommodation was added.  In 1902 An X-ray apparatus was installed, and   in 1903 electric lighting in the operating theatre.  In July 1907 the Duchess of Malrborough laid the foundation stone for yet another extension.  In 1909 it was renamed the West Ham and Eastern General Hospital and there were more extensions in 1912. In the Great War servicemen were treated and the hospital took over adjoining buildings. In 1917 it became Queen Mary's Hospital for the East End. Later an Out-Patients Department was opened as the War Memorial of the County Borough of West Ham.  It was the largest war memorial of any kind in Great Britain, and the fourth largest Out-Patients' Department. Expansion continued.  In the Second World War was evacuated and become a casualty hospital for air-raid casualties and servicemen.  It was the first London hospital to be bombed.   In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS, under the control of the West Ham Group Hospital Management Committee.  Queen Mary's Hospital finally closed in 1983, when Newham General Hospital opened.   The buildings have all been demolished apart from the preserved entry archway in Bryant Street. The Out-Patients Department, built as a war memorial to the dead of the Great War has also gone and the dedicatory tablet is apparently lost.  The site is now housing.
43 Transport and General Workers' Union building which was commissioned in the 1930s. It has a globe, on the roof designed to function as a beacon. As the building opened at the outbreak of World War II, the light was never lit. It was the principal offices of the Union in the East End and had offices, a Board room, branch rooms, and a hall – and an air raid shelter. The building is now used for training purposes and includes a nursery.
West Ham High School for Girls. Sarah Bonnell School for Girls dated from the 18th and had a school room near to West Ham church. Under a scheme of 1873, by the Endowed Schools Commissioners, it became the West Ham High School for Girls, and moved to new buildings in West Ham Lane in 1876. That site was sold to West Ham hospital in 1905 and the school moved to The Grove
St John’s Vicarage. This also stood here and was sold the Hospital in 1915.
Stratford Park – aka West Ham Recreation Ground. West Ham Lane Recreation Ground opened in stages between 1899 and 1912 as land was acquired. The section next to Whalebone Lane was land which had been attached to a house called Sonables which had belonged to the Archdeacon of Essex. The land was sold to West Ham Council in 1899. It was renamed Stratford Park in the late 1990s. The original layout of the Recreation Ground in 1899 is like the earlier Canning Town Recreation Ground designed by Fanny Wilkinson of the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association. The layout was based around bandstand in a circular paved area with curving paths radiated from it and a perimeter path flanked by trees. The bandstand has gone and in 2004/5 a new performance space was constructed. A fountain near the main entrance has been replaced granite fountain in a pool with modern cast iron railings around it. There was provision of a playground in the north corner and sports in the south, screened by trees and this remains with extensions and a modern pavilion north of the tennis courts. In 1973 a scented Garden for the Blind was opened. Stratford Park first won a Green Flag Award in 2004, and has kept this.Carpenters Company marker and their arms are displayed on it. It appears to be a boundary mark. The Carpenters Company originally owned a lot of land in Stratford. Sculptured bandstand/stage/walk-through sculpture. The tiled backing wall stands within a large circular area with low walls

West Ham Park
West Ham Park, is the largest park in the London Borough of Newham, and is owned and maintained by the City of London Corporation since 1874. Only a western portion appears in this square. The land was originally part of the Upton House estate, and was bought in 1762 by philanthropist Dr John Fothergill and used as a botanical garden. Later the Park was owned by the Gurney family and in the 1860s; local residents, the City of London and the family raised funds allow it to be preserved as a park. It was opened in 1874 by the Lord Mayor of London.
Cricket Square. Cricket has been played in the Park since 1874. There are two cricket squares, and one is for is youth matches
Linden Cottages. This replaced an earlier house with the same name which was damaged in the Second World War.
Football Pitches.  Upton Park Football Club was an amateur club in who played their home games here and represented Great Britain in the 1900 Olympics, which they won. The club was wound up before the Great War.
Lucombe Oak. This is by Linden Gate near Ham Park Road. It is an evergreen tree with a bulbous trunk and one of the oldest trees in the park
Whalebone Lane
This old pedestrian walk runs along the northern edge of West Ham Recreation Ground.
Wolfe Gardens
College Point. Tower block built 1967


Sources
AIM. Archives. Web site
British History on line. Stratford. Web site.
Bryant Street Methodist Church. Web site
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
Corporation of the City of London. Web site
Dodds. London Then,
East London Old and New
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Newham. Web site.
London Encyclopedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London Web site
Newham Story. Web site
Sarah Bonnel School. Web site
St.Francis of Assisi. Web site
St. Matthews. Web site
Stratford Baptist Church. Web site.
Stratford’s Free Art and History. Web site.
The Highway. Web site
Walford. Highgate to the Lea
Walford. Village London

Great Eastern Railway to Ilford Cann Hall

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Great Eastern Railway to Ilford
The railway running from Maryland Station goes north eastwards

Post to the south Stratford
Post to the north Leytonstone
Post to the eadt Forest Gate

Albert Square
43a this is now a housing area called Wilberforce Walk. It is on the site of Albert Cooperage Ltd. Who were a barrel manufacturing firm also making steel drums

Ash Road
This was originally Albert Road
Albert Works. In the 1920s this was A.D.Harris who made advertising tapes and string.  The site is earlier marked as a saw mill.  It was roughly on the site of today’s Carroll Close.
39 and 43 Chatsworth Road, Globe Foundry Stratford Ltd mechanical engineers.
Bramall Close
14 this was The Steamship pub, Courage house which was there before 1861 and closed in around 2002.  It is now a chicken shop.


Buckingham Road
Hibiscus Community Centre. This building was a Sunday School for the Strict Baptist Church in Gurney Road. It was built in 1903 and was used for services when the church was bombed during the Second World War. It is now in use as a community centre largely for Caribbean elders but is also used by the Moravian Church.
Jewish Cemetery. This is contiguous with West Ham Cemetery and founded in the same year. It was Founded in 1857 on land bought from Banker, Samuel Gurney, and Three-fifths of the ground opened by the New Synagogue, was subsequently conveyed to the Great Synagogue. At the north end of the cemetery, remains were reinterred from the Old Jewish Cemetery in Hoxton Street in 1960. It contains 4 Commonwealth burials of the Great War and 1 of the Second World War. There is also 1 German soldier and 2 interned German civilian burials.  It also contains the grave of Cadeluc Jacobson, of Hanover, a Jewish survivor of the Battle of Waterloo. The Rothschild Mausoleum was erected for Evelina de Rothschild in 1866 by her husband after she had died in childbirth.  It is a domed building by Sir Matthew Digby Wyatt.  The original 1874 a prayer hall, has been demolished

Buxton Road
Maryland Primary School. The School was opened here in 1968.  The original Maryland School had been at Maryland  Point. It was originally two separate schools – Infants and Juniors. In 1990 the two schools joined to become Maryland Primary School

Cann Hall Road
Cann Hall. The name appears on maps of the 1880s. Earlier ‘Cann Halle’ and ‘Canhall alias Cannon Hall’ . It refers to land ownership before the reformation by the canons of Holy Trinity Priory within Aldgate; a 12th Augustinian foundation. The hall and farm buildings were demolished in the late 19th
145 Colegrave Arms. This has now been converted into a mosque. It closed as a pub in 2010. This was a beer house before 1869 but had a full licence in 1886 and the pub was a Savills Brewery, Stratford, house later becoming Charrington’s.  It kept its 1950s decor and three-bar layout until closure. The Cann Hall and Deen Education Trust bought it for a mosque and community centre.
Cann Hall and Harrow Green Baptist church. In 1878 a farmer in Cann Hall Lane allowed his workers to meet in his Barn for non-conformist worship.  They, became known as the Christian Band. they bought land, and built a Church, which opened in June1887 as Cann Hall Baptist Church.  A group left to become Harrow Green Baptist Church, but in 1976, they joined once more

Carolina Close
Housing on the old distillery site

Cemetery Road
12 Traveller’s Rest. This pub is now housing
West Ham Cemetery. West Ham Burial Board was set up purchased land for its new cemetery in 1857 from Samuel Gurney. It was extended to its current size in 1871. In order to keep costs down the layout is a simple grid plan, and gravestones are set among grass. There is a Gothic ragstone chapel by T E Knightly but the non-conformist chapel has gone.  There is a mock-Tudor lodge just inside the entrance gates. There are memorials to those who died in the sinking of the Princess Alice in 1878, and to firemen in the Silvertown Explosion of 1917. There are 136 Commonwealth military burials from Great War, 30 of them in the "Soldiers' Circle," on which a War Cross is erected. There are 78 Commonwealth burials of the Second World War and for each of the wars there is a Screen Wall with the names of those whose graves are not marked by headstones. there are a lot of mature trees, mostly common lime.

Chatsworth Road
27 Chatsworth Arms Pub. This pub was rebuilt after the Second World War  and closed in 2002 - it is now a community resource centre.
43 and 39 Ash Road Globe Foundry Stratford Ltd mechanical engineers. On site here before 1912.  It was owned and started by William Harris and closed around 1954. There is now housing on the site.
Confectionery factory

Earlham Grove
One of the streets laid out on the Gurney Estate, c. 1870-90.
Earlham Primary School. This was opened in 1951

Forest Lane
Whitechapel Union School. In 1854 Whitechapel Union bought land here for a school – it has been claimed that this was Woodgrange Manor, which had been bought in 1847 by Samuel Gurney and conveyed the land to the Whitechapel Board in 1852. It may however have been farmland. In 1890 there were 542 children there, In 1889 25 boys were suffocated in their beds , in a fire because they were locked in their dormitories. In 1897 the Whitechapel Union dissolved the Forest Gate School and Poplar Guardians partnership but Poplar Guardians used the school for destitute children until 1908 when it became part of the Poplar Union Workhouse.  There had been three more incidents in which 40 children died. West Ham Union bought the school in 1913 and it became their workhouse infirmary.
Forest Gate Hospital. This was originally the Forest Gate Industrial School.  In 1911 the building was bought by West Ham Union workhouse  and  re-opened as the Forest Gate Sick Home – with some beds for mentally handicapped people.  In 1930 it was taken over by West Ham Borough Council and The main buildings became the Forest Gate Hospital, with beds for mental patients, chronic sick, and a maternity unit.  the Hospital had direct hits from bombs in 1940 and many patients were evacuated to South Ockendon Colony In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS and Further maternity wards were built in 1950.  In 1974 it was renamed the Newham Maternity Hospital. It closed in 1985. The original building faces Forest Lane it was E-plan with a square porch beneath a shallow bow window but now only the facade remains and houses have been built on the site.  The Lodge survives and is used community activities.  Gladys Dimson House is one of the original maternity buildings now converted to housing. most of the site was developed as Forest Lane Park between 1991 and 1994.
Gladys Dimson House – this was the Forest Gate Industrial School and then the main block for the Hospital. It is now housing.   It has a mid-19th institutional appearance, with the central block raised to form a tower
Industrial School infirmary. This is now housing
Lodge. At the entrance to the park
The Nurse. This is a statue made of oak, which stands by the pond - a reminder that the site used to be a hospital.
Forest Lane Park. The park surrounds the former Industrial School.  This is a new park built on the site of the hospital which became redundant in 1984. The facade of the original building was retained and the park developed by Newham Council from 1991 with a lake, dipping pond, raised bed garden area, a small orchard with pear and cherry trees, woodland to the east, and a wildflower meadow. There are two sculptures by Helen Stylianides: 'Pulse of Life' and 'Guardian' carved from oak donated by Epping Forest

Gurney Road
Maryland Early Years Centre.  This is part of Maryland Primary School in a translucent building on a timber frame. so children can see the nuts and bolts of the building.
Stratford Strict Baptist Church.  This opened in 1870, when a group led by James Mortar began to meet. In 1882, an iron church was built in Gurney Road. A permanent church was built, probably by Mortar, in 1885. It is now Grace Baptist Church.

Idmiston Road
Stratford Spiritualist Church (SNU). This was on the corner with Alfred Road and seems to have been demolished.


Janson Road
2 Mattesson Meats. Moved here in 1968. From the start there were complaints of smells. They also had a factory in the area in Manor Road, and are now based in Egham as part of Kerry Foods. The firm was founded in 1947 by Richard Mattes from a Rhineland sausage-making family. The company developed rapidly and Mattessons introduced many new products into Britain, the first pre-packed sliced meat for the nation in 1970 and the UK’s first pâté in 1971.
Janson Close. Local authority tower block, early 1960s
Seventh Day Adventist Church in what was St. Columba’s Church hall. The hall dated from 1898 and was designed by E.P.Warren..
31 Canons Court – site of St.Columba’s church. The church was, in Ravenstone Road – this road has gone and the area has been realigned but the church stood in a V the apex of which was a junction where Ravenstone Road met Devonshire Road and Janson Road. It had originated as an iron mission church under Holy Trinity church which opened in 1888. A permanent church which opened in 1894 was designed by E. P. Warren – with some later additions funded by the Misses Nutter. The church
was bombed in 1944 and remained as a ruin until demolished in the early 1950s. The site is now flats.
Leytonstone High Road
245 Thatched House Pub. This pub was also named All Seasons. It is now a betting shop
321 The Click. a modern movement style oval building By Van Heyningen & Howard, 2001 in White render windows.  Originally used as an internet cafe it is now in other use.
Mosaic sign by Stewart Hale.
345 The Halfway House Pub. This pub was on site before 1872 and originally was a Mann, Crossman & Paulin house. It was a free house from 1997 and was named The Croppy Acre.  Following police raids it closed in 2005.  It is now a shop


Leytonstone Road
100 this was Bedwell’s print works. Now a supermarket
Imperial Picture Palace. The Cinema was in a shopping and was converted from one of them by E.J. Jenner in 1910. It was closed in 1923 and later demolished. Henniker Point is now on the site.
Henniker Point. 23 storey tower block. It is 64m tall and was built 1969.
84-90 Dance Studio, gym and snooker club above shops.
83 Tavern Bar. This is also called The Glitter Ball. It was once the Royal Oak Pub and dates from at least the 1840s
82 Essex Arms Pub. This is now a shop
77 a cinema on this site was converted from a shop. It opened before 1909, and closed by 1910.
71 Marshall Taplow, Whitehall Distillery. This whisky distillery had been taken over by Saville Brothers of the Stratford Brewery in 1893 and with them became a subsidiary of Charringtons in the 1920s. A new head office was built here in the 1960s. What remains now are some arcaded walls.
46-48 A previous building on this site was the Royal Hotel. It is currently a vehicle electrical works
16 Yorkshire Grey. This pub was established before 1828 and was a Charrington’s house.   It was later called The Charleston.  It closed in the late 1990s and was demolished in 2005
11 The Hope Pub. The pub was also called Chevy Chase and closed in 2010.

Maryland Park
St Francis Catholic Primary School. In 1970 St. Patrick's School and St. Vincent's School moved to Maryland Park and were amalgamated in 1992 to become St. Francis Catholic Voluntary Aided Primary School.


Maryland Square
Tullet Tomlin and Co. Mineral Water Manufacturers from 1908.  

Maryland Street
Stratford Brewery. Savill Brothers ran this Brewery from 1856, becoming a limited company in 1893.  They were taken over by Charringtons in 1925.
Linfoot Cooper Ltd. colour manufacturers were on site here 1934-37.  They had originated in Bradford and Manchester making colours for the rubber industry.
J. W. & T.A. Smith, colour and pigment manufacturers (lead products department) Based at Imperial Colour Works in Old Ford Road and in Maryland Street 1938-63.  The company was owned by Burrells and a Mr. Burrel was their managing director.
SCC Colours 1964-76. This pigment company was owned by Burrells
Burrells Colour Works. The buildings of the Stratford Brewery were taken over by Burrells, paint manufacturers of West Ferry Road from 1977 as part of their expansion programme. Some colours were thereafter made in Stratford.

Odessa Road
Odessa Road School. In 1874 a Board School was built in Odessa Road. In 1945 the school was reorganised, for mixed juniors and infants. The site is now housing.

Ramsay Road
Church of Jesus Christ Apostolic. In an 1888 iron building

St James Road
St.James Church. This originated about 1870, as an iron building. A permanent church was completed in 1882. The organ came from the church of St. Matthew, Friday Street and is said to have been an 18th instrument by George England. The church was demolished in 1964. There is however a church building on the site now.

Thorogood Gardens
Housing on the site of Maryland Works. This – one of several ‘Maryland Works; in the area - appears to be the works of building and engineering contractors J.T.Luton & Sons, originating in 1897 as A.G.Luton. The company appears to have moved to Snaresbrook and been wound up in 2000.

Tower Hamlets Road
83 Tower Hamlets Arms. This dated from at least the 1870s and is now closed and converted to flats.
112 block of flats– assume this is a building connected with Forest Gate Hospital or the industrial school which preceded it. Dates from the 1890s and clearly had a large painted sign on the south facing wall.
Tents and Nissen huts. Maps post Second World War show that housing had gone from much of the road. This seems to have been replaced by temporary accommodation for Italian and German prisoners of war.


Worsley Road,
Jenny Hammond Primary School. Board School of 1882 on a half-H plan Built by Wanstead School Board. Jenny Hammond was Mayor of Leyton 1942-43. She was an active councillor for 35 years and campaigned for just causes throughout her life

Sources
Cann Hall and Harrow Green Baptist Church. Web site.
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
East London History Society Newsletter
GLIAS Newsletter
London Borough of Newham. Web site
London Borough of Waltham Forest. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Maryland Primary School. Web site
Nature Conservation in  Newham
Victoria County History. Leytonstone
Walford. Highgate to the Lea

Gospel Oak to Barking Railway. Walthamstow Hoe Street

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Gospel Oak to Barking Railway
The line runs south east from Blackhorse Road Station and continues south east from Queens Road

Post to the west Low Hall
Post to the south Leyton


Bakers Avenue
2c Forest Recycling Project. With practical community-based projects to reduce, reuse and recycle waste


Beulah Path
This pathway between the backs of houses was once called Pig Alley

Beulah Road
Name has Biblical allusions to the Promised Land and to Paradise – which the houses in the road were supposed to provide.. The road was laid out in the 1850s on Church Common by Ebenezer Clarke, chairman of the Local Board of Health, a philanthropic town-planning exercise in healthy living for the poor with 'Model cottages'. The line of the road defines what was the eastern boundary of the common
50 this was once a pub called Beulah Stores.

Boundary Road
Built to link Markhouse Road and Hoe Street
78-80 Walthamstow Seventh Day Adventist Church. Seventh Day Adventists formed a church in 1922 on a site previously occupied by the Walthamstow and Leyton synagogue. The present red-brick church was built in 1928.
140 Walthamstow and Leyton Synagogue. Originally met on corner of Devonshire Road and then took over the Baptist Church in 1914.The Samuel Goldman Memorial Hall was built in 1956.   The building was a Baptist church after in 1875 an Iron Chapel was opened here and became a Baptist church.  In 1881 the present building was opened and named ‘Boundary Road Baptist Church’.
155a The Meeting Point. Evangelical Free Church


Chelmsford Road.
10-12 this old education building has a plaque on it “WEC Gymnasium 1927”.  It is assumed this stands for “Walthamstow Education Committee’
Thomas Gamuel Park. This is an area with playgrounds and sports areas, built also has some landscaping with shrubs and winding paths. It was redesigned in the 1990s.

Copeland Road
St.Stephens Church. Small church building attached to Stephen House, The church originated in 1874 when a temporary church was built in Copeland Road on a site given by Alfred Janson and Henry Ford Barclay. It became a parish in 1881. A permanent church in Grove Road was consecrated in 1878 but was demolished in 1969 because it was structurally weak. A church hall, built in Copeland Road in 1880, was altered for use as a church. Stephen House and the church appear to have been built on the site of the church and the hall.
Stephen House. Project for young people who need support.

East Avenue
Built on the line of a row of trees and a pond as part of the grounds of Orford House.

Eden Road
Name has allusions to the Biblical Promised Land and to Paradise – which the area hoped to offer. It was laid out in 1850s on the Church Common. The area was laid out in 1862 by Ebenezer Clarke, chairman of the Local Board of Health an exercise in healthy living for the poor as part of the Land,. Building Investment and Cottage Improvement Society.  Eighteen model cottages were built, which remain.
5-11 St. Mary’s Place. Built by the National Land Society in the 19th as model cottages.
64 Light Engineering. Formed in 1980, one of the original pioneers in the lighting control market
67 industrial building called, by developers, the rope works. Has large long shed behind and a recessed curved front window. Has been used by a succession of printers, etc.

Edinburgh Road
108 South Site of Mission Grove Primary School.
Edinburgh school was opened in 1907 as a junior council school. It was reorganized in 1929 for senior girls, and in 1946 for juniors. It moved to a new building in 2011. The old building is now the south campus of Mission Grove School

Exeter Road
Walthamstow Electricity Works. An electricity generating station, built by the urban district council opened in 1901. It closed in 1968 and was demolished in 1969. The council had been constituted the electric lighting authority in 1895. The total output from the station increased from 225 kW in 1901 to 20,500 kW in 1936 and the plant was retained as a 'Selected Station' by the Central Electricity Board under provisions of the Electricity (Supply) Act 1926.

Gamuel Close
Refers to Thomas Gamuel, a benefactor of Walthamstow in the 17th

Gandhi Close
New housing on the site of Walthamstow Queens Road Goods Yard. This opened as Boundary Road Goods Yard in 1894 and was renamed later. It closed in 1982

Grosvenor Park Road
Grosvenor House estate. This had an avenue of large elm trees and was the first to be purchased for development, and the plots were offered for sale from January 1851. The trees were felled and replaced by Grosvenor Park Road properties. The road replaced an elm avenue.
Employment Exchange built 1929 and GR plaque over the door. This is now flats
27 Bremer Works. Works of the Bremer Motor Co.   In 1888 Fred Bremer built a car at the back of his house. It had a single cylinder engine and a flywheel to keep the engine running between strokes. The fuel was paraffin. It ran in the road in 1892 and in 1896 took out patents. He gave his car to the local museum in the 1930s

Grosvenor Rise East
Laid out in 1850s on Church Common.
15 The Castle. Pub erected in the 1850’s/60’s as part of the Grosvenor Road development

Grove Road
56-60 factory premises currently a garage. In the 1930s this was a lighting firm called Euston Manufacturing, later a fancy paper goods factory, and then Gainsborough Sheet Metal, and a number of other engineering and similar companies.
74 Grove Tavern. This closed in 2007 after it lost its licence. This pub was established in 1868, initially as the Britannia. At various times it has been a house for Truman’s, Whitbread and Charrington’s Breweries . It became a free house in 1993
106 Registry office. This is the former vicarage of the demolished St Stephen's church built by Habershon & Fawkneor in. 1883. It is a double-gabled house with tall chimney and trefoil-headed windows.
119-121 Grove Road Hall. Used as a community centre by the Waltham Forest Islamic Association. 

Hoe Street
Recorded with this name in 1697.
213a Baltic Yard. Ex-private bus garage. Presumably demolished for road widening round the station
275 17th timber framed house
277 Jubilee Branch of the Stratford Co-operative and Industrial Society. A  long range of shops with a plaque showing beehive motifs and a dedication to the opening. Built 1911 and 1915 by W H. Cockcroft, with two round-headed gables, a turret and a dome.
285 Cleveland House. This was once used by Waltham Forest Health Dept but is now flats, 18th house set back from the road. With extension of 1871.
317 Telephone Exchange built in 1956, with chequer brick panels on a concrete grid. It handles the Coppermill Exchange. It replaced Court House, a house of 1700 damaged by bombing in the Second World War and demolished in 1952
324 The Queen’s Cinema opened in 1911 with an entrance through the ground floor of a terraced house, and the auditorium built at the rear, parallel to Hoe Street. It was on the site of a local builders' merchants called Good Brothers, who built and operated the cinema. T was taken over by Hamilton Cinemas Ltd. in 1933, and closed in 1933. It was taken over by Amusements (Leyton) Ltd. in 1934 and refurbished. It closed again in 1940 and became a store. In 1959 it was converted into the Paradise Snooker Club and a bingo club in the 1970’s closing in 1990. In 1996 it was converted into an indoor cricket centre known as the Pavilion and in 1998, was converted into the Pavilion Banqueting Suite.
378 Church of Jesus Christ of the Latter Day Saints
398 Chestnut House. This was once Essex Technical College and also Walthamstow Training Agency. An18th  house rainwater heads dated 1745 and 1747. There are also The initials of Thomas and Catherine Allen, who lived here 1743-63. The grounds were sold to the Tottenham and Forest Gate Railway Co. in the 1890s.  There is also a service wing and stable block in matching style as well as gate piers
400 Motor dealer and show room in premises possibly built as engineering workshops.
468 - 474 Kingsway International Christian Centre  Land of Wonders  Pentecostal church.   This was the Scala Cinema opened in 1913 and built and operated by Good Brothers, a local builders merchants. It was re-named Plaza Cinema in -1931, but closed soon after. Taken over by Hamilton Cinemas Ltd. It re-opened in 1933. It was re-named the Cameo Cinema in January 1961 and closed in 1963. It became a Mecca Bingo Club until 1986. It was then derelict for 18 years until it was taken over by a church in 2004.

Lansdowne Road
Typical Warner Company dwellings with the ‘W’ mark

Lea Bridge Road
London Master Bakers' Benevolent Institution. Designed by T.E. Knightley, 1857-66 with brick buildings on three sides of a large railed court open to the street and extending along the road. They were built for the London Master Bakers' Pension and Almshouse Society was founded in 1832.  The main range has a centrepiece with plaques recording that electric light was brought to the almshouses in 1924 and that gas was installed in 1939.  A tablet with a harvesting putto plus  Reliefs of ploughing and bread making on the sides.  Converted into bed sits by the Greater London Council and are now Council housing
The Bakers' Arms, familiar as a bus destination, is a two- storey pub which is now a betting shop. It has granite pilasters, and with a row of pineapples on the parapet. There is a tiled picture of a baker at work.
613 Iceland, this was a Woolworths building with a cream faience-clad front from the 1930s with Art Deco verticals. Now Iceland
557-559 The Drum. Wetherspoons pub. The previous owner had a display of drums.
590 Omnibus and Tramway Depot. This was Lea Bridge Depot. It appears to be a set up initially for Leyton Council Tramway services in 1905 when the council took over the Lea Bridge, Leyton and Walthamstow Tramways Company’s lines.  From 1921 London County Council Tramways worked and managed the routes for the urban district council's transport undertaking. The depot closed in 1959 and photographs from that date show London Transport buses.

Leyton High Road
816 William IV pub. Built by Shoebridge & Rising in 1897. It was the Sweet William Brew pub from 2000, now Brodie’s Brewery
Swimming bath. Built in 1934 and replaced by a more modern facility to the south.  The site is mow a Tesco
832-836 The King’s Hall opened in 1910 owned by T.J. Hallinan and by 1920, was known as the King’s Cinema. It was taken over by the Granada Theatres chain in 1949 and closed in 1951. It re-opened as the Century Cinema in 1952 and closed in 1963. It was demolished and a Tesco supermarket built there. The building on the site is now a Poundstretchers supermarket
806 Community Place and Ladbrokes. This was the Ritz Cinema with a symmetrical white Art Deco front. The Ritz was opened by Associated British Cinemas in 1938. It was designed by the chain’s in-house architect W.R. Glen. It was re-named ABC in 1962 and taken over by an independent operator and re-named Crown Cinema in 1978 closing in 1979 although for a few weeks there were late-night presentations of Kung-Fu films on Friday’s. It was converted into a DIY hardware store, and later a KwikSave supermarket. It is now a Ladbrokes betting office and offices for community groups.
857 betting shop in old Woolworths store with fiancé tiles

Orford Road
Named from its one older houses. Development in this area began from 1850, after the enclosure of Church Common from 1853. The road became a shopping street, and the relocation of the Town Hall from Vestry House in 1876 confirmed the status of the area as the 'centre of Walthamstow' and remained the centre of town until 1941 when the new Town Hall was opened.
Old Town Hall.   Built in 1876 for the Walthamstow Local Board by their  surveyor, J. W Swann and later extended.  It was added to a public hall built by the Walthamstow Public Hall Company as Walthamstow's first building for public entertainment. The Company failed after 10 years and the Local Board acquired the site,. This hall was replaced by housing around a courtyard, in a rebuilding by Cube Architects in 1994. It continued as the Town Hall for the next 65 years and then became a reception area for the Connaught Hospital to the rear.  It later became a nursery and then I Kuan Tao, a non-religious temple which shares teaching from Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism, as well as running classes on yoga and feng shui.
18a Asian Centre including Forest Pathway College. This was St Mary's National Schools built in 1866 and designed by William Wittington and accommodated young boys who previously shared increasingly cramped premises with girls at St. Mary's National School in Vestry Road.  The school closed in 1949 and the building became the Pathology Department of the Connaught Hospital to the rear.  The Asian Centre provides facilities, support and education for Asian communities in Waltham Forest
31 The Village Pub
45-47 formerly an ironmongery and oil shop, retain some original fittings.
73 Orford House Social Club.  This is a 19th stuccoed villa and the oldest surviving building in the conservation area. It was originally the home of John Cass, a Whitechapel merchant. It takes its name from Orford in Suffolk. The club dates from 1921 before which the house was still used as a home. It defines the western end of what was Church Common. A bowling green to the rear is the only remaining section of what were extensive grounds.  It is now a co-operative and home to film, poetry and other clubs.
42 Queens Arms. Traditional style 19th pub. It had at one time a large gas lantern hanging outside it. It was erected in 1859 on the edge of the former Church Common
58 Marsh Street & Trinity United Reformed Church. Built 1870 adjoining the former church in West Avenue.
Central Baptist Church. In 1874, Christians started meeting in a house locally and in 1881a brick building was opened in Boundary Road. However more space and a more central site were needed so in 1914, the present building was opened, the church moved here. It was built by W.D.Church and Sons and is well sited for views from Hoe Street.

Railway
Walthamstow Queens Road signal box. This was for entry to the goods yard to the south of the station. It was originally, like the goods yard itself, called Boundary Road.  It was installed in 1894.

Pembroke Road
Laid out in 1850s on Church Common
53 Windmill Pub 1857 closed and with peeling lettering over the door.

Queens Road
64 Lorne Arms.  It had hand painted mirrors, tiles, etched windows. This pub opened in 1883 and was rebuilt as it appears today in 1888. It closed in 2005 and is now in commercial use. It was originally tied to Savill Brothers Brewery of Stratford, East London – later becoming a Charrington’s house.
Masjid-E-Omer. Built 2003-4 by G. Associates. Yellow brick, with dome and minaret. The Masjid originally started in 1977 a small house on Queens Road 1977 and in 1981 the Synagogue was purchased and converted into a Masjid.  Many alterations were made to the building and in 1987 an extension was made .By 2000 it had become too small – worshippers were having to pray on the pavement outside. Rebuilding work started in June 2002 The new Masjid has three floors and this includes a community area, offices, a kitchen, main prayer hall, and class rooms.


Rosebank Road
London Borough of Waltham Forest. Children’s Services Offices

St Barnabas Road.
St. Barnabas, another companion of Christ, is popular, with six or seven names in the Greater London area.
St Barnabas and St James. Built 1902-3 by W.D. Caroe, for the Warner Estate. The whole cost was met by Richard Foster. It is an architectural contrast to St Michael of twenty years earlier .It is in brick with a thin turret. The foundation stone behind the altar, is by Eric Gill, who was then a pupil of Caroe. There is also metalwork, made for the demolished church of St James by Ashbee's Guild of Handicraft c. 1905 and by Edward Spencer of the Artificers' Guild and many other related art works. .
Vicarage. Caroe 1903-4, gabled, with tile-hung mansard, and neat tilework above the windows.
Parish Hall. Caroe designed 1909, built 1912, with main entrance from Wellesley Road, forming an attractive group with the church. Open arch-braced roof.
Stafford Hall is the original temporary iron church of 1900.

Station Approach
Walthamstow Central Station.  This was opened in 1870 and now lies between Wood Street and St.James’s Street on the Chingford branch of the lines from Liverpool Street and it is also the terminus of London Underground’s Victoria Line from Blackhorse Road. It was built by the Great Eastern Railway and opened as Hoe Street Station when it faced open fields but became the main centre of the growing suburb.   Originally a line was opened from Lea Bridge Station to a temporary station called Shern Hall Street to the east of the current station and the line that the Chingford branch now uses was opened later in 1872 and extended to Chingford the following year.It remains in a relatively original condition with ppolychrome brickwork. In 1873 a down side platform was built, But there was no booking office until 1897.  It became part of the London and North Eastern Railway in 1923 and eventually part of British Rail.  The line was electrified in the late 1950s with electric services starting in 1960. In 1968 it was renamed ‘Walthamstow Central’ and rebuilt for the Victoria Line which had originally been intended to run to Wood Street Station, but in the end it was Hoe Street. There is now a joint BR/LT booking hall & bus access.   The Victoria Line station is underground and there is a concrete stairway between the two escalators instead of a third escalator. In 2005 a subway was build under Selborne Road linking to a new bus station with a new Victoria line ticket office and lifts.
Goods yard on the down side 1870-1880
Goods yard on the south side 1880. , a footpath ran access it to the Walthamstow Station on the Tottenham to Woodgrange Park line of the Midland Railway. A sidings from here took coal to the Walthamstow Council power station and this continued until 1967. The yard closed 1964.
Bus interchange. This is next to the Victoria Line exit and built in 1968. It has overlapping butterfly roofs on thin hollow-steel posts

West Avenue
Built on the line of a row of trees and a pond as part of the grounds of Orford House.
Trinity United Reformed Church.  A 1864 brick built church which became the lecture hall to a newer church in Orford Road. Between 1886 and 1889 it was home to the Monoux School, and between 1883 and 1892 a school of art founded by Walthamstow Literary & Scientific Institute

Yunus Khan Close
New housing on the site of Walthamstow Queens Road Goods Yard. This opened as Boundary Road Goods Yard in 18894 and was renamed later. It closed in 1982


Sources
British History Online. Walthamstow
Cinema Theatres Association Newsletter
Cinema Theatres Association Picture House
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London.
Connor. St. Pancras to Barking
East of London Old and New
Field. London Place Names
Forest Recycling Project. Web site
Grace’s Guide. Web site
Historic Buildings of Walthamstow
Law. Walthamstow Village
London Borough of Waltham Forest. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site
London Railway Record.
National Archives. Web site
Orford Conservation Area leaflet
Orford House, Social Clubs. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry.  Essex
Vestiges Newsletter,
Victoria County History
Waltham Forest Asian Centre. Web site
Walthamstow Central Station. Wikipedia. Web site

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield. Great Ilford

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River Roding
The Roding flows southwards and is joined by the Aldersbrook from the west

Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Ilford - and on to Shenfield
The Great Eastern Railway running north eastwards from Manor Park Station arrives at Ilford and onwards.

Post to the north Valentines
Post to the west Aldersbrook
Post to the south Little Ilford

Albert Road
St Alban’s Church. A brick Gothic church by J.E.K. and J.P. Cutts. The first church built for Ilford's rapidly growing suburbs between 1892 and 1912, and one of the Bishop of St Alban’s ‘London-over-the-border' churches.  It was built in 1906 to replace a temporary building.  It contains a hexagonal pulpit from 1700, given by All Souls Oxford in 1949.
52-6 Ilford Islamic Centre and Mosque.  It has been on this site since 1977. Built in red brick, with tall arches
Oakfield Lodge. Built 1983 by Redbridge Architects Dept, project architect: Norman Turner.  It is a care home originally built for disabled children.  Single-storey pavilions, grouped around courts, in brick


Audrey Road
2-4 Church of the Latter Day Saints 


Balfour Road
Part of Ilford Lodge Estate. This 19th area had been part of the Valentines estate. In 1797-8 it was sold separately. In 1882 it was acquired for building by the IIford Land Co. and bought, by James W. Hobbs, a Croydon builder associated with Jabez Balfour – after whom the road is named. When his Liberator Building Society collapsed in 1892, Hobbs was tried for fraud and was sentenced. The IIford Lodge Estate was later sold.
2-4 Wilkinson store. They sell ‘Home Goods’ in a building previously used by Woolworths but built for C&A on the site of the Ilford Super Cinema.  It has an angled corner tower faced with fluted panels.  .
Ilford Super Cinema was opened in 1922, by Premier Super Cinemas Ltd. and designed by William E. Trent with Val Prince for the inside. It showed film and variety performances. It was taken over by Provincial Cinematograph Theatres in 1924 and by Gaumont British Cinemas in 1929. It had a Compton 3Manual/8Ranks organ and a popular restaurant. In 1945 a V2 damaged the rear of the cinema and the roof collapsed.  Two usherettes were killed and the building was unsafe and boarded up. It was finally demolished in 1959.
112 Ilford Muslim Society. This was formed in 1978. Masjid-E-Da'watul Islam, also known as Balfour Road Mosque


Barking Relief Road
This is part of the A406, North Circular Road. The background to it is fairly checkered involving various, since cancelled, ringway plans. This eastern section was part of proposed Ringway 2. This was originally planned as a motorway, the M15, but although it was cancelled part of its route was built in the 1980s as an extension of the A406.


Chadwick Road
1 I-Scene Leisure Complex. This includes the Cineworld Ilford which opened in 2002.
Telephone Exchange.  This was built in 1911 by Edward of H.M. Office of Works.
2 Royal Mail Sorting Office and Post Office


Chapel Road
This bypass road is made up of bits of a number of older roads, including Ilford Lane
1 Black Horse. This closed in 2012 and is now a betting shop. The original pub dated from at least the 1870s but this was a post war rebuild.
Ilford Hippodrome.  When this was extant it was on Ilford Lane at the corner of High Road – the site is now in Chapel Road and was partly covered by the now defunct Black Horse  The Hippodrome opened in 1909 was built for Walter Gibbons chain; London Theatres of Variety Ltd. It had a terra-cotta frontage along Ilford Lane in a Moorish style. Above the entrance was a minaret. Inside the ceiling was said to resemble the Palace of Versailles. It was a playhouse and a variety theatre and able to screen films from the start. In the 1930’s it became part of Metropolitan and Provincial Cinematograph Theatres Ltd. With a Western Electric sound system. Many top artistes of the day appeared here including Max Miller, Flanagan & Allen, Gracie Fields, Vera Lynn, George Formby etc.  In 1945 during the Lew Grade produced "Robinson Crusoe" a V2 rocket fell behind theatre, killing 15 and demolished the dressing rooms.  The orchestra played on and the audience left. Two days later, the roof collapsed. The ruins were demolished in 1957, after some of the facade fell onto a trolleybus. Offices and shops were later built here.
19-20 Maguire’s Irish Bar


Clements Lane
Melcombe Lodge 18th house
Pioneer Market.  This stood on the corner of Clements Lane and Ilford Lane. It was a prototype shopping mall, built in the 1920 with a maze of corridors, and individual shops. Said to be art deco but now demolished.


Clements Road
Until 1814 this was part of Green Lane with Potato and onion fields up to the 1840s.
Clements. The Clements estate was developed in the early 19th and in 1847 covered an area from Ilford Lane. A John Clement had been here in 1456. By 1878 the 56- acre estate was mortgaged, and put up for sale. It was mainly built up in the next 20 years.  Some was built by Withers of Ilford Hall and some by Cameron Corbett.
Clements Farm. This farm lay roughly on the site of the current leisure centre.
Brickfield. In the early 19th there were several brickfields in this area.  One of these belonged to John Scrafton Thompson and was part of the Clements estate.
 IScene Leisure Complex is situated on Clements Road, Ilford. The scheme houses an 11 screen Cineworld cinema, restaurants, hotel and a gym
9 Post Office
15 Salvation Army Hall. The Salvation Army had a hall behind High Road by 1887. They were active in the 1890s and about 1901 opened the present hall.
Spiritualist church.  In 1903 the Ilford Spiritualists were met in Clock House Hall. Their present church in Clements Road was licensed in 1933 and visited by Conan Doyle. Ilford Spiritualist Church is now in the High Road
Central Library.  This was opened in 1986 and was designed by D.J. & H T. Lawrence, Borough Architects.  It is an island site with a copper-clad roof. On h stairs is abstract stained glass by Goddard & Gibbs.
Redbridge Museum. This is on the second floor of the library.
Virgin Active Health Club. This has now been taken over by Nuffield.
London Ilford Travelodge
Elim Four Square Tabernacle.  This is recorded from 1926. This has more recently been the City Gates Centre and has been demolished.
City Gates Church building. The Church began as a tin shack in the 1930’s ad has since had a building in the High Road. In 2009, planning permission was granted for a new 1,000 seat, Worship Centre. This fell down while under construction in January 2012


Clements Lane
Clements Court flats
1-4 Clements Yard, Clements farm cottages demolished in the 1930s for a car park for the Hippodrome. Now part of Clements Court site. They appear to have been part of an older Clements farmhouse converted into four cottages. This building had an oak and hornbeam frame, dating from the 16th. There were indications of Tudor additions to an earlier building.


Cleveland Road
Ilford Health Centre. Built in 1989 by Avanti Architects on a cruciform plan with steel frame.
Cleveland Road Board School. This was opened in 1896 designed by Charles Dawson. It was originally a county junior and infants' schools. It was the largest erected by the school board and in 1931 It was re-organized for juniors and infants – and it remains as two separate schools.
Ilford Hindu Centre. This was originally the Friends Meeting House of 1908 designed by Charles Dawson. The Ilford Friends' Meeting was formed in 1906 in a temporary building and a permanent meeting house was erected later


Coventry Road
Ilford Federation Synagogue. It was founded in 1927 but has now moved to the Gants Hill area, although some commemorative plaques remain on the building.
2-8 Ilford Ursuline Preparatory School. Private Roman Catholic school. This originated in 1889 when two Ursuline Sisters who were teaching locally were asked by the priest at St Peter and St. Paul, for help in establishing a secondary school.  In 1903 "Hainault", a house in Cranbrook Road was rented and opened as a school. In 1906 Heathfield, the adjacent house, was bought. In 1936 no.2 was bought to use as a primary school.
6 this was bought during the second world war as a home for the nuns teaching at the school and thus became the Ursuline Convent.  There was some bomb damage.  These building are now part of the school.
10 this remains as a small Ursuline convent.


Cranbrook Road
Ilford Station.  This now stands with the main entrance in Cranbrook Road – this part of the road was once called Station Road. It was opened in 1839 by the Eastern Counties Railway on what has become the Great Eastern Main Line. It lies between Seven Kings and Manor Park. The line was built from Mile End in 1838 but not opened until works at Romford finished. The main building is thought to date from the 1839 opening.  It originally had only two platforms but in 1894 the station was rebuilt with guarantees by developer Corbett, as part of the promotion for the Grange housing estate.  From 1903 to 1947 Great Eastern trains also ran from here to Woodford via the Fairlop Loop which was transferred to London Transport and is now part of the Central line. It was rebuilt again in the 1980s. There are five platforms all below street level: two "up" to Liverpool Street and two "down” plus a bay for services starting here. Two other Platforms are disused. The platforms built in the 1890s have distinctive GER ironwork brackets to the awnings. In 1911 a bridge was built across the platforms to facilitate the transfer of milk churns and the bridge was later used for parcels. It was demolished in the 1980s.
28-32 Santander Bank. This is a corner block with a dome, with a great deal of carved decoration of fruit. It was built 1900 with for the National Provincial Bank.
37 Jonos Bar. Free house pub
46 Redeemed Church of God, Embassy of Faith, with shops on the ground floor. This was originally West's department store.  It has giant columns and a classical appearance.
45 Lloyds Bank with a curved front Portland Stone by Johnson & Astbury, built in 1932.  This appears to be closed
47 Punjab National Bank
51-71 this is the site of Langsett where the Ilford Ltd Photographic business began, as Britannia Works, in 1879 Alfred H. Harman, a professional photographer from  Peckham was experimenting with the production of the new gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates. He went to Ilford to manufacture these because of the clean air. He renamed Langsett as 'Britannia Works', and he and his wife began to produce the plates. Later he rented building elsewhere and the Ilford factory and business grew - however the emulsion still prepared with great secrecy at the Britannia Works.
51-71 Burnes furniture store was bought by Chiesmans, who owned a chain of drapery stores. Chiesmans were bought out by the House of Frazer group in 1976.
55-57 East Side Bar
60-64 Fairheads Department Store. Drapers shop which closed in 2008 after trading for 100 years
100 British Heart Foundation shop. This is on the site of a Baptist church opened in 1899 on a site bought eight years earlier by the High Road Baptists, but conveyed to the London Baptist Association. Second World War incendiary bombs damaged the building.
Cranbrook Lodge. This was a large house once known as Cranbrook Cottage. The site had been part of Rayhouse estate until 1806. The house, built before 1835, became Cranbrook College, a private school for boys. The house was demolished in 1923 when new college buildings were put up.
Ursuline Convent School. The school now based in Coventry Road began in two houses here – Hainault and Heathfield – the sites of which are now part of the school.
109-127 Saravana Bhavan in what was previously Yates Wine Lodge
114-116 The Great Spoon of Ilford. This is a Wetherspoon's pub. The name is about the Elizabethan actor, Will Kemp, who danced his way from Norwich to London in 1600. He stopped in Ilford for a 'spoon' of ale.
180 Army Careers Office. This has now closed.
182 Venue 3. This is what was the Cranbrook pub.


Granville Road
Kings Church. This was built as the church hall for St Clements Church and called Cecil Hall.  It was built in 1907 and designed by C.J.Dawson. It was laid out with classrooms, games rooms and a first floor hall. It has since become an evangelical church called variously Kings Church and Jubilee Church.
13 Indigo Project. This is a Barnardo’s charity for holiday activity for special needs children.  Site of the vicarage for St.Clement’s church.


High Road
The road is part of the London to Colchester Road Turnpike of 1721 run by the Middlesex and Essex turnpike Trust. It was pedestrianised in 1987 after the opening of the ring road.
96-98 the Cinema DeLuxe was opened in 1911 and made up of two shops. It closed in around 1926, and went back to being a shop.
Clements Mansion. This stood on the High Street roughly at the west side of the corner with Clements Road.
Methodist church. The (Wesleyan) Methodist church began in 1883. Land was bought in and iron building put up in 1884, followed by a permanent church in 1895 A school hall was later added. In 1959 the members joined with the Ilford Lane Methodist church, and in 1961 moved into a new building in Ilford Lane. The High Road church was demolished. It was on the corner of Clements Road – somewhere round the site of Clements Mansion.
58 Shop built for Burton’s menswear in the early 1930s. It has a grey stone facade and Deco styling of the house. In other use
93 Barclays Bank - this is site of The White Horse pub which closed in 1959
109 site of The Angel. This was a former coaching inn dating from at least the late 18th which closed in the 1980s. The premises became a Burger bar and later a clothes shop. A replacement Angel was built at the back - but that also changed its name.
120 Burton’s store of 1930, streamlined Moderne in white faience,
Ilford Hall. This was on the corner with Hainault Street.  It was a 19th house used as a girl’s school by 1898. It was later used by Ilford Urban District Council for meetings and demolished in 1901. The site is now shops.
128-142 Town Hall for the new Ilford Urban District Council. Built in 1899-1901 by Ben Woollard in Bath stone following a competition.  With additions done in 1931-3 by L.E.J.Reynolds, with steel frame with Bath stone façade. The building is in two halves – one ceremonial and one for business and all were connected by means of a speaking tube. Inside is an elliptical lobby with curved doors and a monumental stair to the old council chamber and committee rooms. There is also a back staircase with a tiled dado.
Council Chamber. This has been redone but much remains. Some seating is said to be from former the Ilford Council, and some from Wanstead and Woodbridge.  There is walnut panelling and, in the centre of the floor, a parquetry sunburst pattern by Hollis Bros. in walnut, and oak.
Mayor's Parlour. This has a bow window and a plaster ceiling, by Waring & Gillow.
Refreshment Room called the Lambourne Room, with Deco treatment
Bronze Boer war memorial over inner doors. It is signed by Sterling Dudley and E. Hirch.
Members' Room. Oak-panelled
Public Hall. This was built for 700 people and is a, rectangular, space. There is a balcony and a stage with proscenium arch. In 1931-3 orchestra pit was added
193-207 Harrison Gibson’s furniture store. John Harrison Gibson opened his first store in Ilford 1902 and made furniture to a high standard.  The store was badly damaged by fire in 1959 and replaced by a building by Forrest and Barber with a night club on the top floor. The store closed in 2004 and the building is in other use.


Ilford Hill
Ilford Bridge. This carries the main road from London to Colchester. The road crossing two bridges: one over the Aldersbrook and over the Roding with a causeway between them. They were called collectively 'Ilford Bridge'. In the middle ages it was maintained by a hermit who lived alongside and used donations from travellers. The medieval Roding Bridge was structure with three 13th pointed arches. In the late 16th the bridges were in such disrepair that Quarter Sessions were urged to repair them at the cost of the City of London. In 1759-64 the larger bridge was rebuilt in brick and was replaced in 1904. The bridge was the limit of commercial navigation on the Roding from 1765.
Aldersbrook bridge – this as described in 1858 as 'an ancient iron structure'. Aldersbrook diverted to join the Roding 100 yards. North of the new bridge and now runs parallel with Romford Road and the bridge was removed.
Ilford House Academy. School on the site of Ilford’s first school. The Academy was 1824-1870.
2-4 Beckett’s House. Office block from the early 1990s housing several NHS departments.
11 Mill House. BT building. This has 11 floors and was built in 2006.
16 Rose and Crown. This is one of several inns which were established where the Roman Road crossed the Roding and continued to Colchester.  This was the nearest to the river. The pub was remodelled in 1897 to the designs of C Foulsham and H Riches.  The elevation to Ilford Hill is almost unchanged from that date.  It has been closed for some years. 16 Rose and Crown.  The pub name symbolises the union of York and Lancaster in the marriage of Henry VI and Elizabeth of York
28 Roller skating rink which opened in 1909 and was 22,000 feet square feet. It could take 1,000 skaters and 2,000 spectators. It was used for roller hockey – and hosted the international championships and had the world’s top team. In 1917 During the Great War the site was used by Oakley Ltd made three Sopwith Triplanes there. After the war it was used as a Whist Drive Hall, and demolished 1939-1947.
39 Peachy House flats. This is a 19-storey former office building called the iCon Building, now converted to flats. London St. Andrews College – another private business school.
40 old Police Station now in other use. Built in 1906 by John Butler in red brick.
42 Conservative Club.  Built in 1930. The Conservative - or the Constitutional – Club was formed about 1881, and previously use the old parsonage house attached to the hospital.
48 Chaplains House to the Hospital.
4a The Hospital - almshouses  This is the Hospital of St Mary and St Thomas of Canterbury lying behind a high brick wall, it is the oldest building in the London Borough of Redbridge. It now consists of the Chapel plus almshouses on each side which were rebuilt to allow for road widening by F.W Speaight with W.J. Kieffer and H.S. Fleming in 1927. They are now converted into modern flats.  It was founded in 1145 by Adelicia Abbess of Barking, as a hospice for 13 aged and infirm men. By 1219 it was admitting lepers. The Abbey of Barking was dissolved in 1539 but the Ilford Hospital Chapel had its own endowments and survived, probably because it was a chapel-of-ease as well as a hospice. It passed into the hands of the Crown who leased the mastership and this passed to a number of local gentry – originally and predominately the Fanshawe family but eventually passed to the Cecils. In 1982 the late Lord Salisbury handed the property to the diocese of Chelmsford and they set up the Abbess Adelicia Charity to take over the administration.
The Chapel was originally dedicated to St. Mary the Virgin. Later Mary Becket became Abbess and she arranged for the name of her brother, Thomas à Becket, to be added to the dedication as St.Thomas. The nave and chancel of the present building were built during the 14th. From the Middle Ages it was used for public worship as well as by the hospital inmates. In the 18th Bamber Gascoyne renovated the ChapelI in 1889-90, when the Lady Chapel, organ loft and vestry were added.  The communion rail is early 20th and is of-wrought iron with concealed gas lighters along it.  The outer windows are by Morris & Co., c. 1891 showing St Valentine, designed by Burne-Jones, in memory of Clement Ingleby of Valentines.  It is still in use as a church.
The Master's house. The Hospital was governed by a Master, appointed by the Abbess, who had large house to the east which was demolished in 1905.  It seems to have been used as a pub called the Green Man.
50 Natwest Bank.  Corner building which has become a landmark.
51 – 69 Valentines. Office block built 1988 formerly used by British Gas – the police are among the current occupants. It replaced the buildings of the Biograph Theatres Ltd which had opened in 1911 and closed in 1921. It was later used as a discotheque and demolished in 1973.
71 Red Lion.  The pub closed in 2005 and now seems to be the If Bar or Lush. It has also been recently called: Lloyds No. 1, Mainstreet, The Greene Castle, Blah-blahs, and the Rat & Carrot. It is a real 18th building but it was altered around.1850. In the 1870s it housed the local fire appliances - Leather hoses, for fire-fighting and in 1884 a fire-escape ladder.
The entrance to Ilford Station was originally at the back of the Red Lion pub. An access road to the station from Ilford Hill is now adapted as the station car park.
Pyruma Works, J.H.Sankey. Pyruma was a plastic fire cement with many industrial and construction applications as well as use as a modelling clay.


Ilford Lane
An old main road which linked London to Tilbury Fort leaving the Colchester road here and running south to Barking. It was at one time called Barking Lane.
Methodist church. A dispute among local Methodist church - the Reform controversy of 1849–51 - led to the establishment of a United Methodist Free chapel here and a church was built in 1867. In 1902 a new church was built. Designed by F. W.Dixon. The old church was used as a Sunday school until 1932 when a new hall was built. The church was bombing in the Second World War.  The congregation then joined with a Methodist church needing in the High Road and in 1961 the current church was built here on Ilford Lane.
Hall. This was built as a Sunday school in 1932 to replace a previous building.
Empire Kinema. This was on the west side of the road north of Audrey Road. It was the first purpose built cinema operated by Alexander Bernstein, founder of the Granada chain. It opened in 1913 and had a stage and dressing rooms. In 1931, it became part of the Ben Jay circuit. In 1940, it was hit by a German incendiary bomb. It was later demolished and is now under the new road layout.


Kenneth More Road
Kenneth More Theatre. Opened in 1974. This is Ilford's civic theatre, named after the actor, Kenneth More. The Studio Theatre is included for experimental work and was re-named the Cowan Studio in 2001. The Theatre has devoted half of its programming to local amateur companies.  It was designed by the Redbridge Architect's Dept project architect: Jack Lewis.  It has a copper-clad auditorium roof and a short fly tower.


Ley Street
The Exchange shopping centre. Set up by Chapman Taylor in 1988-91. It is the main retail shopping mall in the town centre. It has three levels of retail but its lower floor is divided into two separate parts. The entrance from Cranbrook Road is through a gigantic arch. Presented as an Indian temple. There was once a granite floating sphere and a wishing fountain which have gone.


Lugg Approach
London Underground Construction Academy. This is at Aldersbrook sidings and provides a training establishment for Crossrail. Opened in 2011.
Bridge over the Aldersbrook built as part of Crossrail.
Aldersbrook House. This was a British Railways staff hostel and training centre. Now gone


Mildmay Road
This is what was Oakfield Road now south of Winston Way with an underpass between
2-4 Mildmay Neighbourhood Learning Centre. The English Academy, In Ilford Presbyterian church
Ilford Presbyterian church was set up in 1896, in an iron building. The permanent church was built in 1903. The organ, installed in 1905, had been built in 1820 for the church of St. Mary, Moorfields


Mill Road
South Essex Water Works.  Both The East London and the South Essex Waterworks Companies had powers to supply water to Ilford. Mains were extended to Ilford during the 1870s and 80s and, they divided the district between them, the South Essex Company supplying the eastern part of the area.  Buildings were erected here in 1905 and there was also a high chimney on the site.
Ilford Paper Mill, This business, which gave its name to Mill Street, appears to have been founded by William Simpson & Co., but later passed through the hands of several owners. Paper making was carried out here from c.1862 – c.1923.
Rail bridge over the road and a short siding for local coal merchants. Road under is in a tunnel
Ilford West Junction and signal box. The box closed in 1949.


Moreland Road
Ursuline Academy. This is a Roman Catholic secondary school and sixth form for girls. It was originally Ilford Ursuline High School founded in 1903 by the Ursulines. Beginning in a rented house in Cranbrook Road where two Ursuline nuns taught. The premises expanded and a new school building was erected at the end of the garden facing Morland Road. The pupils moved into the new premises in 1908. Over the years, more buildings were added and a tennis court and an asphalted playground were added to the games facilities in what had been the garden. Under the 1944 Education Act the school acquired Direct Grant status but from 1979 it was necessary for fees to be levied from parents. The secondary school is now a four stream comprehensive Science College. The primary school is in Coventry Road.


Oakfield Road
Fire Station. A volunteer fire-brigade was formed in 1890 and in 1893 a fire-station was built here and a steam fire-engine bought
Central Library.  Built as part of the Town Hall complex 1926-7 by Herbert Shaw, the Borough Engineer.  It is now used as offices.

Park Avenue
St Clements church, site. The church was built between 1889 and 1896 by the Cutts Brothers on land given by Mrs. Clement Ingleby of Valentines. In 1902 it was the main church in place of St.Mary's. It was a gothic style red-brick building and a bell-cote containing one bell. It was demolished in 1977


Riverdene Road
This was previously Uphall Road.

Roden Street
Was previously called Back Lane. In the 17th there were a few houses on the south side
57 Papermakers Arms aka The Sheepwalk Inn.
Mill House, Victor Wharf. This is now a development site but it seems latterly to have been use by waste and scrap dealers. A crane on the wharf was associated with a local brickworks
55 Sainsbury on the Britannia works site
60-70 former Britannia Music site development including 332 residential units in a series of blocks with a 23 storey landmark tower on the corner of Chapel Road and Ilford Hill. BBritannia Music Club (1969-2007) was a British mail-order company owned by PolyGram which sponsored the Brit Awards. The company was acquired by Universal Music Group as part of PolyGram in 1998, and closed in 2007
Britannia Works - Ilford Ltd., The firm which made photographic materials, was founded in 1879 by Alfred H. Harman, a professional photographer who was producing gelatino-bromide 'dry' plates. He came to Ilford because of the clean air and initially operated from a house in Cranbrook Road. He then rented cottages on the Clyde estate, where the Ilford Plate factory and head office were later located, and there the plates were coated and packed.  It became a private limited company in 1891, and in 1898 a public company with a nominal capital of £38,000. In 1906 Col. Ivor Philipps became chairman and remained as such until his death in 1940 and was largely responsible for the progress of the firm. Between 1917 and 1929 Ilford acquired many rival companies paper, sold as 'Ilford P.O.P.', was made by the company from its early days and later the material for films. After the Second World War they extension into foreign markets. By 1954 the company had factories at Ilford, Brentwood, Leyton and Watford. The factor closed in 1976. The company later operated from Cheshire.


Roding River
Recorded as Roding in the 16th which is from Roding in Essex – originally meaning a 'settlement of a man called Hroth’ . Before the 16th it was known as the ‘Hile’ .The river may have started as a melt water channel in the Ice Age. There are signs that it has tended to shift eastwards.  From Ilford Bridge to the branching out of Back River the Roding runs fairly straight, forming the parish boundary throughout.  This suggests that the wall that protects Little Ilford Levels to the west is of ancient origin. The wall against East Ham Marsh was certainly there in the 14th. Recently some of the westward meanders of the Roding have been occluded
Ilford Navigation. In order to facilitate navigation to Ilford from Barking some improvements were made to the river Roding. The navigation ran northwards for just over a mile and a half from Barking to Ilford. It was a successful concern until around the 1920's when traffic declined and It is not known when the last boat traded to Ilford – maybe in the 1930's. Since 1961 there has been a Barking and Ilford Navigation Company


Romford Road
A toll gate stood to the west of Ilford Bridge and a toll house on the northern side of the road survived until 1900 as the Little Wonder Coffee House.


Station Road
This was once Havelock Road but renamed Station Road – the original Station Road s now part of
Cranbrook Lane.
Bodger's department store established in 1890 and rebuilt here in 1914 as an arcade.  The range facing Station Road with a screen of columns.  The end to Cranbrook Road is a rebuilding, with an unattractive sloping corner.


Wellesley Road
Cranbrook Baptist Church


Winston Way
Part of the A118. This new stretch opened in 1985, running south and bypassing the town centre.
Pioneer Point, this replaced Pioneer Market. It consists of two interlinked towers of 31 floors built in 2011 by Empire Property Group.


York Mews
Ilford Station. There was also a rear entrance open peak hours only, from which the London end of the platform can be reached via a footbridge which was rebuilt in 1978. A booking office here was closed in 1991 and a LNER passimeter removed

Sources
Barking and District Historical Society. Web site
Business Cavalcade of London
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Cinema Theatres Association. Newsletter
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London 
Connor. Liverpool Street to Ilford
English Heritage. Web site
Essex Journal
Friends of the Earth. Gasworks in London
Ilford Historical Society. Web site
Ilford Recorder. Web site.
Ilford Muslim Society. Web site
James. The Chemical Industry in Essex
London Borough of Redbridge. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Nature Conservation in Newham
Pevsner and Cherry.  Essex
Sabre Wiki Roaders Digest. Web site
Skyscraper News, Web site
St. Alban’s Church. Web site
Thames Basin Archaeology of Industry Group
Victoria County History. Essex

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Ilford

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Great Eastern Railway – from Ilford to Shenfield
The railway from Ilford station continues north westwards

Post to the west Great Ilford
Post to the north Seven Kings
Post to the east Seven Kings
Post to the south Loxford


Buckingham Road
Karamsar Centre. Sikh Centre in what was Ilford County Court. The court building were sold to the Sikh community in 2013
Romford and Ilford County Court. History: In the late 19th legal services provided by Romford County Court, for the Becontree Division of Essex.  In 1910 it was renamed ‘Romford and Ilford County Court’ and some sittings were held in Ilford Town Hall.  In 1937 this purpose built court was opened and designed by J.H. Markham of the Office of Works.  It is a single storey building with the Royal standard over the main door.  There is a small garden area fronting the High Road enclosed by railings with red brick piers.
Cemetery.  The Ilford Burial Board, established in 1880, laid out a cemetery adjoining St.Mary's church. It was originally called Great Ilford Cemetery. The 19th Chapel has been demolished because of vandalism. Howards & Sons War Memorial has been moved to Barkingside cemetery. Facing the gate is a memorial to Sir Peter Griggs, first MP for Ilford. There is also a war memorial which says ‘Their name liveth for evermore. On these panels are commemorated those members of His Majesty's Forces who gave their lives for their country in the Great War 1914 - 1918. Whose graves in this cemetery but are not marked by separate headstones.”


Clarks Road
Until around 1900 this area was a brickfield owned by Henry Clark and a row of Brickfield Cottages lay in the area which became Clark’s Road
Pit – this area was the site of a pit opposite the Cauliflower Public House and confusingly it has sometimes also been called the Cauliflower Pit.
Corporation Yard. 
Amity Community Centre
Liberty House and the Redeemed Church of God.
Bruton House Axis School
. This was at one time a clothing factory but, like the other buildings in the complex, were part of the Ilford Council buildings behind the Electricity Department offices in the High Road.
The Ilford Training Centre. An outreach centre of Havering College.
Ilford Ambulance Station– this opened post Second World War and was out of use by the late 1950s
Electricity substation– a main substation for the area.

Connaught Road 
Eden Christian Centre. At the junction with Stanley Road. This African Evangelical church was originally a Primitive Methodist Chapel. It opened as an iron building in 1897 and closed in 1936 and re-opened as the apostolic church. In the Second World War. It was bombed and in 1960 a new building was put up on the site including a house called ‘The Manse’.
Clementswood and Mayfield Community Centre. One of a number of businesses in a mews area.

Golfe Road
Homes of Rest for the Church of England Temperance Society dated 1910, with designs by Arthur C. Russell for the Sons of Temperance Friendly Society, Pension Almshouse Fund. Red brick houses with fire-resistant, reinforced concrete to upper-floors. There is a brick plaque with mosaic decoration and inscriptions and a stone memorial plaque.  Flanking bungalows each with porch that in the centre with characterful round arch as a curved wall and a little tower at the back.
Gordon Infants School. Opened in 1930.


Gordon Road
Territorial Army. 217 Field Squadron - Royal Engineers. The Regiment forms an active part of 2 (National Communications) Signal Brigade, providing military communications for national operations. The TA base in Ilford has strong links to the Worshipful Company of Poulters of London. It is a modern building set in spacious grounds. The Army Reserve Centre is also here. The centre is set in Gordon Fields, used for military and other displays but also as a sports ground. Previously the site was the Gordon Club - complete with a crenulated tower and was the home of HQ Company of the 4th, The Essex Regiment until 1969. The original Drill Hall was built in 1872 at the rear of the Thompson Rooms where 'Centreway' is today. These original buildings at Gordon Fields were demolished in the late 1980's
St Peter and St.Paul Roman Catholic Primary School. The school originated in 1900. In 1961 it was re-organized for juniors and infants


Green Lane,
Old main road. The western end was diverted in the 19th having been closed by the brick field owner in 1826 and diverted.
Barracks. This building is noted on pre-20th maps south of the road on the cusp of the southwards curve east of South Park Road.  It is however east of the site of the later TA Centre and Barracks.
63 Prince of Wales pub



Griggs Approach
Elevated road which crosses the Great Eastern Railway and the old A118 High Road which is pedestrianised beneath it.
Eastern Roundabout. It is hoped to put a mammoth on this


Hainault Road
1-7 Harrison Gibson’s depository. Advertised on a still decipherable wall sign to the rear of the building. Now Stratford School of Management.
Spectrum Tower. Housing which was part of a plan to bring more people to live in the town centre this is a 12 storey block by ATP Group Partners built in 2002-3 with bright blue tiles.


High Road
In the 18th the road from London to Colchester, ran through Ilford. It was of Roman origin and from 1721 was controlled by the Middlesex and Essex Turnpike Trust. It remained as the main road until 1925, when Eastern Avenue was opened.
204-212 Site of The Vine Congregational church. This was called Ilford High Road church and was founded in 1892 by the Metropolitan District Committee of the London Congregational Union. In 1894 an iron church was opened in the High Road and in 1895 a large hall was also opened. Charles H. Vine became minister and remained until his death in 1930. The hall was enlarged, and in 1901 a new church was opened. In 1910 additional buildings were put up. Vine started the Men's Meeting, and other groups. After his death the High Road church was called the Vine Memorial church. In 1960 part of the site was sold and a new, smaller church built Richmond Road
229 The General. The original name is The General Havelock. It was built in 1900 Arts and Crafts style with a corner tower
246-250 The Premier Electric Theatre was opened in 1911with a tall tower topped by a dome. In 1921, it was operated by Prince’s Electric Theatres Ltd. and from 1922 by Premier Super Cinemas Ltd. It closed 1925. The building was taken over Mecca Dancing Ltd. and opened as the Palais De Dance in 1925. In 1959 a new plain facade was built, and it became the Palais Dancehall. Bill Haley and His Comets appeared there as did The Who, The Kinks and The Small Faces. It was called in the 1970’s, and taken over by the Rank Organisation it became a nightclub named Fifth Avenue, and then Jumpin' Jacks. It was demolished in 2008, and a housing development named Vision20 was built there.
231-251 Shops.  Some of this site was the Thompson Rooms. In 1846 Nancy and Eleanor Thompson of Clements built an infant department for the Barking Church School Committee. It bore a tablet 'To God and the Church, 1846' with a gabled front in yellow brick and was later used as public rooms. The gabled facade was in yellow brick, in a 'Tudor' style. It was demolished for the current shops in 1966
Reading Room. In 1858 Eleanor Thompson built a reading room behind the infants’ school.  This was for run by the master of the National school, who educational and entertainments events there. In 1863 it housed a mechanics' institute. In 1954 it was sold and became the Little Theatre. The Little Theatre, Ilford, was run as a weekly 'rep', for eleven months a year, by eight amateur companies. It was replaced by the Kenneth More Theatre.
Drill Hall. This was built in 1872 at the rear of the Thompson Rooms also the gift of Eleanor Thompson. It became the headquarters of the first Volunteer Battalion, Essex Regiment. In the 1960s it became a youth club and roller-skating rink.
Lucana Temperance Billiard Hall, one of a chain built and managed by a specialist company
255-259 Lynton House council offices of the 1960s. Concrete faced in rough, dark aggregate.
261-275 Ilford Retail Park. This included Fitness First and Lidl. On the site of a United Dairies Depot. In the 1920s there was a private bus garage here for the Gretna Bus Company which was also called Paterson Omnibus Co.
270-294 Ilford police station. Built in 1995. 
290-296 Bal-Ami Jukeboxes were made here in the 1950s. It was also the headquarters of the Balfour (Marine) Engineering Company
300-310 Passage to India. This was a cinema, bingo hall and then a music venue and now a banqueting complex serving the Asian community since 2001. The foyer was used as a pub called the Overdraft but was later closed. It was built for the Associated British Cinemas circuit designed by their house architect William R. Glen as the Regal opening in July 1937. There was a Compton 3Manual/6Rank theatre organ. In 1962 it was re-named ABC and in 1973 converted into a triple screen. It closed in 1984 and was converted into a bingo club, later taken over by Granada Theatres. It closed as a bingo club in 1989 but in 1992 when it became ‘The Island’, holding live pop concerts. By 2001 it was a banqueting hall which remains called the Prabas Banqueting Suite. For a whole the balcony area was the Ilford Cinema screening Bollywood films.
316 City Gates Christian Centre.  Characterful, former Billiard Hall and club with glazed terracotta and a Greek acroterion crest.  This building has been in use by the City Gates Evangelical Church, previously Elim Church, for many years. They have moved out but their new building collapsed before it was finished and they are using temporary accommodation nearby. The future of their old building is unclear
322 Ilford Baptist Church Built 1907 by George Baines & Son.  With a big window to the street. The church can trace its roots back to preachers here in the 1830s.
323 London Tigers Community Centre.  Charity offering opportunities to disadvantaged young people, largely through sports.
St Peter and St Paul. Roman Catholic Church built 1898-9 by R.L. Cunis. In1895 a Roman Catholic mission was set up by the ex-chaplain of Ilford Hospital. A temporary iron church was built in Ilford Lane, and a permanent church followed
324 Ilford Catholic club. Also called the Guildhall as a venue for music events. After the Great War a group began to get together a football team and were allocated two rooms in the adjacent school as a clubhouse and Ilford Catholic Men’s Social Club was set up. At the same time the Ilford Catholic War Memorial Committee were fund raising for an institute. From1922 ladies were admitted. In 1924 the current premises were purchased at auction, having been a car showroom.  The club house was opened in 1924 by the Lord Mayor of London and named Ilford Guildhall.  The club then continued to expand and to add buildings and facilities. In the Second World War the club was requisitioned for government use.
St. Peter and St. Paul's Roman Catholic junior and infant schools originated in 1900 through the work of Canon Patrick Palmer as the first Catholic school in Ilford . In 1961 it was re-organized for juniors and infants. The School is now in Gordon Road in new buildings. The High Street buildings are now the Cardinal Heenan Centre.
326 Cardinal Heenan Centre. Catholic community centre next to the church mainly in the buildings of the school. Facing the wall is a stone plaque depicting young people.
370-372 Ilford Spiritualist Church. This was the Ilford Unitarian church. This originated in 1906. And a church opened in here in 1909.The Building suffered bomb damage in 1943, and re-opened in 1949. It closed in 1979.
374-376 factory building and house. Also says it is Aladdin’s Shisha Bar.
400 Gurdwara Karamsar. Sikh temple of sandstone from Rajistan carved by Rajistani stone masons with domes and god insignia.  Built by Narinder Singh Assi 2005. This replaces a previous building converted from a Labour Party Hall.
426 St.Mary the Virgin. The parish church was built in 1829-31, on land given by John Scrafton Thompson of Clements. It stands in a large graveyard, and is a brick building designed by James Savage, with a wide galleried nave. The tower was built in 1866 as a memorial to John and Elizabeth Davis of Cranbrook and partly demolished 1950.  There was an uncompleted scheme to rebuild in the 20th leaving a large chancel, grafted on to an existing building.
450 Charter House. Office block built on the site of St Mary’s Parish Hall. This had originally been a school built in 1830 by the Barking Church School Committee on a site called Cricklewood. It was first called the Cricklewood School and was a National Society School. The school was closed in 1922 and the buildings demolished in 1964 to be replaced by Charter House.
452 Dreams Bed Store with a snooker hall upstairs. This was built as the Ilford Borough Electricity Offices. Opened in 1931 by the Ilford UDC and designed by L.E.J. Reynolds, Borough Surveyor.  Steel frame building, in Portland stone. With deep window bays to the ground-floor showrooms. 
460 Fire station
531-535 Hotshots Bowling


Holstock Road
Vine Church Hall.



Ley Street
Railway Cottages. Between Academy Roofing Supplies depot and the staff railway yard entrance, and backing on to the railway is a terrace of houses of mixed age and style. Of these 23 of the oldest were built in the 1897 and 1902 by the Great Eastern Railway Company on their land for staff at the Ilford Goods Yard.
293-297 Panjabi Centre. This is the Redbridge Panjabi Sabhiacharik (Cultural) Sabha formed in 1983.  At that time a petition was got together with the help of London East Gurdwara Singh Sabha (Sikh Temple). Following that a great deal of fund raising ensued. In 1984 a grant from the Greater London Council allowed them to buy an old print factory to become the Panjabi Centre which was formally inaugurated in 1985.
284-294 Costello Bespoke Tailors. Making uniforms and theatrical clothing.
308 The Bell. Pub which dates from at least the 1850s. Seems to be a bit rough.

Park Road
Tulse Arms. Built in 1905 by Foulham & Riches in red terracotta. Now closed and in use as a shop.

Railway
The line had been built from 1839. It went through flat fields in a continuous low cutting. From 1899 the line was quadrupled for the whole of this stretch following an agreement with developer, Cameron Corbett. The two extra lines fitted in where possible, and bridges upgraded as a consequence.
Brickfield Siding. This probably dated from the 1840s and lay east of Ilford on the down side. It was removed by 1882
Ilford Goods Yard. This was on the up side east of Ilford and was built from 1881. It had two sidings parallel to the main line and a signal box called Ilford Brickfield Sidings, later Ilford Goods Yard. In 1893 the public goods yard at Ilford Station closed and therefore this yard was expanded – and a goods shed, three sidings and cattle pens were added. A footbridge ran right across the site. The goods yard closed in 1968 although a siding to the United Dairies depot remained open.
Carriage sidings. Eight sidings were built in 1898 and survived in their original form until the 1930s. Water supply to them was installed in 1900 with an artesian well, tank, pump and engine house.
Ilford Carriage Sidings signal box built in 1882 to replace Ilford Goods Yard box.
Coal Depot. This opened in 1900 as part of the Goods Yard
Loco shed. This dated from 1900
Electric Car Sheds. These are on the site of the carriage sidings and loco sheds closed in and removed in the 1940s.
Signal boxes to control the 1890s goods developments were removed in 1947 and replaced by boxes at Ilford Car Sheds. These have now gone to be replaced with the Liverpool Street resignalling scheme in the 1990s.
Cauliflower Pit or High Road Pit. This lay north of the railway line. John Gibson tried to excavate a complete skeleton of an elephant in 1824 but was unsuccessful. In the 1830s the pit provided the clay for the railway’s bricks. Bones were successfully removed by Gibson with the cooperation of Thomas Curtis, the brickworks owner. The Cauliflower pit was still in operation in 1898.

Riches Road
The Vine Church. This is a church build in 1961 on part of the site of the earlier Vine Church in the High Road sold for redevelopment. The church is now part of the Vine United Reformed Church.

Stanley Road
127-129 Firmco. Firmin House. Refurbishment and construction specialist company.

Sunnyside Road
101 currently a clothing factory this has been an engineering works and a laundry

Sylvan Road
Redbridge Foyer ATP Group Partnership for East Thames Housing designed to provide small flats and an integrated centre for disadvantaged young people.  Similarly lively ranges in yellow brick with metal-clad upper storeys.  Turreted stair tower.
Bus stand. This appears to be on the site of Tyne Hall, a gentleman’s house dating from at least the early 19th and demolished after 1940.  Residents included, in the 1860s, and enthusiast for silk worm culture. It appears to also have been used as a school.


Thompson Close
Redbridge Enterprise Centre.


Winston Way
Relief road built in 1985.


Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield.
British History On line Web site.
Closed Pubs. Web site
Clunn. The Face of London
English Heritage. Web site.
Field. London Place Names
Gordon Infants School. Web site
Ilford Catholic Club. Web site
London Borough of Redbridge. Web site
London Railway Record.
London Tigers. Web site
Nature Conservation in Barking and Dagenham
St.Mary’s Ilford. Web site
Unitarian History. Web site
Victoria County History. Essex
Walford. Village London.

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Whalebone Lane

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Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway line from Liverpool Street to Shenfield continues eastwards

Post to the west Chadwell Heath
Post to the east Crowlands

Coppen Road
Industrial area built up since the 1920s.
Capricorn Centre

David Road
Gateposts on the bend at what must have been the entrance to Lymington Secondary School

Eric Road
St.Chad’s Church Hall. With local activities like a youth club called United Origin.

Freshwater Road
Trading and industrial area – although the original big chemical and related factories have been replaced partly by building supplies warehouses, and smaller specialist organisations –like the Tate Gallery’s publishing house
Baird and Tatlock. Buildings here built 1951-1960 Analytical chemists, scientific instrument makers and laboratory furnishers originating in Glasgow with factories in the London area. Eventually part of British Drug Houses and owned by Merck Ltd under which name the business later operated and this involved the storage and packaging of various chemicals. The buildings were demolished between 1995 and 1999
Hoo Hing. Chinese food supplier in a building from 1999 on part of what was the Baird and Tatlock site
41-51 Nichols and Clarke.  Building supplies. Founded in 1875 in London, they claim to be the largest privately owned national manufacturer and distributor of building products.


Kemp Road
Kemp Road Industrial Park an estate of small industrial units on the site of what was Barton Bakery.
23 Concord House. Harmony Christian Centre
Kingdom Power Bible Church International

Lymington Fields
Vacant and made up of grassland. The west part of the site was originally part of now demolished Barking Technical College  and associated playing fields (in an adjacent square)..
Gravel Pit. The eastern part of the site was formerly a gravel pit and landfill from the 1960’s. A siding ran into this from the railway


Saville Road
West Ham United Football Club training ground


Selinas lane
Intensive industrial area with many light and less light industries.  Very little information about any of them.
Dairy Crest Depot. This is the liquid foods department of this national dairy brand. State of the art dairy processes 400 million litres of milk a year
The Redeemed Christian Church of God Fountain of Living Water. This is in Ronac House, brick built factory unit owned by Ronacrete, concrete company. The building is on the line of the siding from the Great Eastern Railway to the now defunct gravel pit to the south.
Selinas Lane Islamic Centre. VW House. Previously in use as a motor sales centre.


St Chad's Road.
St Chad‘s church. This was originally founded as a chapel-of-ease to St Peter and St Paul, in Dagenham. It was built 1895-8 by Frederic Chancellor in red brick. It has an embattled clock tower, added in 1897-8 to commemorate the Diamond Jubilee.


Whalebone Lane
The Whalebones themselves were in the High Road north of this area/
Whalebone Bridge over the Great Eastern Railway.
Triptons Service Station. Triptons was the name of a farm on this site
Whalebone Farm was opposite the entrance to Selinas Lane. It was also called Butlers Farm

Sources
Essex Journal
London Borough of Barking and Dagenham. Web site
Nature conservation in Barking and Dagenham.
St.Chad’s Web site
Victoria County History. Essex

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. New Romford

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Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
The railway runs north eastwards from Chadwell Heath Station

Post to the west Romford
Post to the north Romford
Post to the east Romford

London Road.
17 Allen Ford.  Current Ford dealership. Charles H. Allen had taken over the business of Slipper's coach builders of North Street Romford from the mid 91th.
Cottons Park. This was originally Cottons Recreational Ground named after the Cottons Estate with a 16th house until the 20th. In 1920 Romford Urban District Council negotiated the ownership of this land and it was cleared and tennis courts and a putting green were laid out using unemployed labour. There was planting and paths one of which went from the London Road, entrance to a bandstand. There were also fields for rugby, soccer and cricket and a children's playground. In the Second World War there were air-raid shelters and a decontamination centre – which later became a café. In 2009 six sculptures commemorated six people killed in bombing in 1940. In the 1960s houses in Marks Road were compulsorily purchased and demolished to enlarge the park. Facilities now include an outdoor gym and areas for younger children and for teenagers.
New Mill Inn. This stood on the corner of Waterloo Road
47 The Sun public house. Probably designed by Sewell for Truman's, on a large scale with Neo Regency-cum-Art Deco details and a, its sun motif blazing.  There has been a Sun pub here since the early 17th.
49 Compasses pub. This pub was present before the 1830s but gone before the Second World War
Salem Baptist Chapel.   In 1836 a Baptist church was set up. In 1840 land on which the Chapel stands was purchased. The land had been part of a Napoleonic Barrack Ground. The original meeting room was built and the chapel later built round an open air Baptismal Pool. In the 1930s a new church was built on a different site; however the old chapel continued with a new constitution. There was some bomb damaged in the Second World War but repairs were carried out, and later extensions and improvements. The church undertakes much mission work and community involvement.It is now the only 1840s survivor in the neighbourhood
Postmill. This was on the south side of the road, west of St. Andrews' Road. In 1751 the owner was Thomas Green. The Collier family operated the mill until. 1860. The mill had gone by 1871.
Workmen’s Lodging House. This was near Cotton’s Recreation Ground and was an outreach project of the Salem Chapel.
Bus depot. This lay west of Cotleigh Road on the south side and appears to now be the site of St.Andrew’s Court flats. It has been opened in 1932 by Edward Hillman’s Saloon Coaches. It was an early garage to run Green Line coaches but then closed at the outbreak of the Second World War.  It reopened and closed several times, but finally in 1977
83 Kwick Fit fronting large factory building now divided into units. This was a bakery belonging to the Co-op.
83a Celestial Church of Christ
119 St Andrews Rectory
140 Omega Court. Modern flats on the site of Jessop’s art deco car dealership works.
164 Slaters Arms
Crowlands Primary School. The school was built on land owned by the charity of Robert Palmer, who left money in 1624 for the poor of Romford. In 1811 the land owned was called Townfield and this was sold in 1907 to the county council. It was originally London Road School for 280 infants designed in 1908 by Cecil Sharp and A.S.R. Ley in an Arts and Crafts style. It was enlarged in1931 but in 1937 the seniors were transferred elsewhere and it was renamed in 1956. . The Infants building has an octagonal tiled roof and classrooms flanking a hall with a central cupola. The Junior School was built in 1912 and bas a central hall. A nursery was added in 2000.
260 The Crown pub. This was once an out of town country pub but the greyhound stadium brought it a lot of business.
Romford Greyhound Stadium was opened near the Crown hotel in 1929.  It was the ideas of Archer Leggatt and the hare was pulled round by a bus engine. Following a dispute on rent the present stadium, which is on the opposite side of London Road, was opened in 1933. Over the years the stadium has hosted many events including stock car racing, Wild West shows and cheetah races. It is now one of the few remaining tracks in the country, and is part of Coral, betting empire.
Mawney Road
The Manor of Mawneys ran north from Romford High Street to Collier Row.  Benjamin Harding Newman inherited the estate in 1882 and put it up for sale. By 1889 much of it had been developed for building. The manor house of Mawneys stood on a moated site and it was demolished about 1935 and the United Services Club now stands on the site
United Service Club. A Formation Committee was set up in 1920 by the ex-servicemen of Romford from the Great War and a club was opened in the High Street in 1921. In 1938 it was decided to extend the facilities and the Committee purchased "Great Mawneys” which opened in 1939. It has been extended since.
44 Mawney Arms. Dates from the 1890s and refurbished 1999. All the old fittings were reinstalled in a bar in Thailand called the Mawney Arms.
Mawney Foundation School. This opened as .Mawney Road Board School in 1896, to replace Albion Street School. It was enlarged in 1907 and in 1936 reorganized in 1936 for juniors and infants. It has recently received Foundation status. The building is by Charles Bell with roof tile hanging and an arcaded entrance. 
49 Stanton Gate. Office block and trading estate in what appears to be an old factory site
Public baths. Mawney Road baths were Opened in 1900 were at known as locally 'Craig's White Elephant' since they had been pushed by Councillor J. J. Craig. They were demolished in 1975.

Pretoria Road
Romford Smallholders. An inaugural meeting of the Romford Smallholders and Allotments Society Ltd. was held in 1911. Sir John Bethel lent the society the money and a site was bought. Potential members paid a five shilling share. The limited company went into liquidation in 1935 and was replaced. The allotments were popular during the Second World War but then declined. In the 1990s efforts were made to sell stock and to clear overgrown sites and facilities have improved

Queen Street
This was the area of the 18th Cavalry barracks which stretched as far as the railway. It was sold in 1840, and developed with artisans' cottages and factories. It became known as New Romford. Since the Second World War it has-been redeveloped with council flats.
British School. This dated from a foundation of 1839 by Congregationalists in Angel Yard and later moved to new buildings in here in 1851. It was supported by subscriptions and children’s pence. In 1872 it was taken over by the newly-formed school board, who turned it into a mixed school – it had been boys only. It was replaced in 1896 by Mawney Road School but the building was later used by St. Andrew's infants’ school, and in 1912 it was sold to Brazier's Yard mission.

Railway
There was a considerable area of sidings to the south of the railway as it approaches Romford Station. In the 1860s this was confined to a eastwards running siding into an area known as The Gullet, north and east of Nursery Lane and described as a ‘goods siding’.  By the 1890s sidings were running westwards from the main line into the gas works west of Nursery Lane.  In the late 1930s the sidings north of the hospital site had increased with cattle pens and lines fanning out towards increased good provision nearer to Romford Station. Lines also extended westwards almost reaching Jutsums Lane.  The lines nearer to Romford, between Nursery Lane and Waterloo Road are now the site of some very recent housing, and areas that were sidings near the gasworks are used by a number of industrial and related units and partly, to the west were used by National Grid.  To the west of this land is still in use by railway maintenance and other functions accessed from Jutsums Lane   Cattle Pens were sited here
Signal Box
Barrack Lane Station. This was the original Romford Station and sited to the west of the current station. The Barracks were in the area now covered by St. Andrews Road.


Recreation Avenue
This, of course, leads to a gate into the park

Sandgate Close
Queen Elizabeth House. Royal Mail depot on part of the old gas works site.
Self Storage Company area. This uses ‘containers’ rather than a building.

Spring Gardens
This includes a small light industrial area built post-Second World War. Much of these have been replaced by recent housing
Colvern. Manufacturers of wire-wound potentiometers and variable resistors including high-accuracy precision potentiometers. 650 employees. In 1973 Acquired by Royal Worcester
Colvern House – new housing which is presumably on the site of Colvern’s factory described as ‘a remarkable building by W.Hammond for a number of electrical engineering firms”

St Andrew's Road
32 Prince Albert. Pub. This dates to at least the 1870s
St Andrew. Built 1861-2 by John Johnson in rag stone for the New Romford area with support from the Ind and Coope brewery families. It is named for an original, and lost, parish church in Romford. A High Church tradition was established by 1900 and many original 19th fittings remain. The Church is now also used for Orthodox services at approximately monthly intervals since 2008. The community was recognised as a parish in 2011 and includes English and Greek as well as Russian members.
St.Andrews Church Centre.        
2 The Old School House

St. Edwards Way
Part of the Romford Bypass A1251

Union Road
The Gullett
Oldchurch Hospital. The Hospital originated from the Romford Union workhouse, which lay in the square to the south of this.  In 1929 the workhouse and its infirmary came under the administration of Essex County Council, who converted it into the Oldchurch County Hospital.  The Hospital, incorporated the old workhouse buildings, but also expanded in an area to the north during the 1930s.  In 1948 the Hospital joined the NHS and remained an acute hospital and in 2000 had 473 beds.   The Hospital closed in 2006. The site has been sold and is being redeveloped for housing by E.ON and Taylor Wimpey East London.  Much has been demolished

Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
British History .On Line Romford
Evans. Romford a History
Evans. Romford Heritage
Evans. Romford people and places over the 10th century
Glazier. London Transport Garages
Grace’s Guide. Web site
London Borough of Havering. Web site
London Gardens On Line. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. Essex
Romford Smallholders Society. Web site
Romford Then and Now. Web site
Salem Chapel. Web site
St.Andrew’s Church. Web site
United Service Club. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield Heath Park

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Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield runs north eastwards from Romford Station. The London, Tilbury and Southend Railway line to Grays Leaves the line to the south east

Post to the west Romford
Post to the east Heath Park


Benjamin Close
New housing on the site of a builders yard

Brentwood Road
163-165 Kingdom Hall of Jehovah’s Witnesses. The hall is currently replaced.
Francis Bardsley Academy for Girls. The first school was started, in 1906, by Francis Bardsley in the centre of Romford to provide free education for local girls. It later moved to Brentwood Road. In the 1930 it became a selective grammar school and was renamed the Romford County High School for Girls.  Until 2003 the school was based on two separate sites; the Upper School here in Brentwood Road which was (built in 1910 and the Lower School in Heath Park Road. The two sites were joined by a long road in 2003 the Lower School Site was sold. The school gained Specialist school status in the Visual arts in 2004, and academy status in 2012.
Romford Evangelical Free Church. In 1888 a corrugated iron building, in Boundary Road was called 'The Gospel Mission Hall'. In 1897 the church bought the land on which the church now stands and was opened for worship in 1902. In 1963 new halls were built to the rear.

Great Gardens Road
This is named for Great Gardens Farm, which stood here. This was a dairy and poultry farm.

Heath Park Road
Frances Bardsley Lower School. This was built as Romford County High School for Girls in 1909-10 by Hickton and Farmer of Walsall. It was renamed in 1974 in honour of its founder, a prominent campaigner for education of girls. .he Upper School is in the Brentwood road and the two sites were around a quarter of a mile from one another, and joined by a long road. In 2003 the Lower School Site was sold and developed into houses and flats. The main school building was converted into 12 apartments and 2 duplex galleried houses and renamed ‘Academy Square’.

Hyland Park
This is on the site of a big house and estate. Hylands was developed in the 1920s by the French family, who were local publicans who bought it in 1920. It was an orchard and piggery and it was then converted into a trotting and racing track behind corrugated iron fencing. The first race meeting was held in 1925 and Hornchurch UDC tried to prevent it but was overruled by Minister of Health. The track was also used for athletics meetings. However it eventually closed down and became derelict. The local authority bought it in 1927 and laid it out as a Park. Cricket and football pitches were laid on the former trotting track. An avenue of poplars was planted as a windbreak, and a rose garden was planted on the site of a static water tank. The stone gate piers and gates at Osborne Road came from Grey Towers, a 19th castellated mansion demolished in 1931.  In the Second World War the area was used for allotments and there was some bombing.  The area was later reinstated with sports facilities.

Manor Road
Manor Hall. Church of God. The church is currently rebuilding the hall. This was the building of the Catholic Apostolic Church. Originated in 1867, when a house in High Street was registered for worship. Meetings were held in the Laurie Hall, Market Place, from 1869 until about 1894, when an iron church was built in Manor Road. In 1962 that church was re-registered as the undenominational Manor Hall


Park Lane
Raphael School. This is a private school which originated in 1935 as Clark’s College. The Colleges –which were a national chain - had been started by George E. Clark who had started evening classes and specialise in tutoring candidates for the civil service. The Romford College was in Junction Road and apparently moved here and changed their name. The building here was Park Lane Board School, opened in 1893, which was the first built by the school board. The school was reorganized in 1930 for juniors and infants. It was later called Edwin Lambert Junior and Infants School. It has now closed.


Princes Road
St Alban’s church. This was opened in 1890 as a mission of St.Andrew and became a separate parish in 1952. The church is filled with the work of contemporary artists. Glass doors at the entrance were engraved by Sally Scott and David Peace showing the shrine of St Alban, and St Alban. Inside is an organ, with green pipes decorated with red and blue bands and gilded mouths. Pilgrimage Window, with Our Lady of Walsingham designed by Patrick Reyntiens. Font, the cover of which is also connected with Walsingham. By Siegfried Pietzsch. Above the chancel arch, is Peter Eugene Ball’s Christus Rex. Above the altar are Angel Windows, designed by Patrick Reyntiens. Angels continue on the mural which fills vault where Mark Cazalet, painted the angels of the four elements of Creation and at the bottom of the mural the market, the buses and trains, a white van carrying the logo of the Romford Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the Essex girls dancing round their handbags. Around the church, are the Stations of the Cross carved in European oak by Charlie Gurrey. Siegfried Pietzsch carved the statues of Our Lady and St Alban on each side of the chancel.  The Church has been awarded twelve Design Awards
Churchyard. Column of Remembrance in Portland stone by Jamie Sargeant. This sculpture bench, by John Pitt, in Portland stone, representing the Trinity, with the words ‘Come ye apart and rest awhile’ carved on vertical slabs. The seat is inscribed ‘And our hearts are restless till they rest in Thee’


Rushdown Close
Modern housing on the site of depot of builders merchants, Hall & Co. of Croydon., The depot was built in 1923 on the site of a gravel pit which they had opened in 1914 – seen as a risky venture into unknown territory.

Salisbury Road
Squirrels Heath Primary School. This was originally, Salisbury Road council school was opened in 1911. It was renamed in 1956. And a new school was built in 1974 on a neighbouring site.


Sources
British History online. Hornchurch. Web site
British History online. Romford. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Francis Bardsley Academy. Web site
Hall. A Century and a Quarter
London Borough of Havering. Web site
London Gardens Online. Web site
Romford Evangelical Free Church. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Gidea Park

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Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
The railway continues from Romford Station running north eastwards to Gidea Park.

Post to the west Romford
Post to the south Heath Park
Post to the east Squirrels Heath


Balgores Crescent
1-3 with Crittal Windows type curved bay
7 Quaker Meeting House.  In the 1950s the Havering Friends group were looking for new premises. A site off Balgores Crescent was bought which had been used for allotments during the war and was full of broken glass from greenhouses and cloches. It was opened in 1961.


Balgores Lane
Several houses in the road were built as entries in the 1911 exhibition – for example 17, 32, 33, 35, 39, 47, 49 51
Balgores House.  A grey and yellow brick house of the 1850s. Served as refreshment rooms for the exhibition and was the home of Mr. William Bose, secretary of Gidea Park Golf Club. In the Great War it provided additional accommodation for the Artists Rifles, having been offered rent free by Sir Herbert Raphael.  Now a private fee paying ‘preparatory’ school called Gidea Park College. The school was founded in 1926 by the grandfather of the present owners, Mrs.N. Molyneux and Mrs. A. Parkinson-Curd.
Lloyds Bank. The bank is on the site of The Cottage – which was Humphrey Repton’s home. It was standing in 1911 and a plaque on Lloyds Bank building describes his work here.
Library


Balgores Square
This is a fragment of an uncompleted shopping centre designed to have a continuous arcaded ground floor around three sides of the square. But instead houses were built on the undeveloped plots and the square is now a car park
Elm Walk
3 -7 designed by Curtis Green but they were not exhibition houses

Gidea Close
Site of Gidea Hall. This is now a covenanted space used by the tennis club. Surrounded by tall hedges. From 1452-1629 it was owned by the Cooke family, with a 15th/16th house built on the site of a 13th manor. It was a moated house within parkland with deer, a rabbit warren and fishpond. It had several subsequent owners and in 1710 it was owned by Sir John Eyles, Sub-Governor of the South Sea Company and Post-master General who rebuilt it as a three storey mansion. It was then sold to Richard Benyon, Governor of Fort St George, Madras and his grandson sold it to Alexander Black.  In 1893 it was sold to the Land Allotment Company for development but then sold on to Herbert H. Raphael, barrister and a Liberal MP. In the Great War it was an Officers School for the Artists Rifles and was demolished in 1930
Gidea Park Lawn Tennis Club. Established in the 1930s


Gidea Park,
The Romford Garden Suburb begun in 1910 and the designers of the houses include most of the influential figures of the late Arts and Crafts movement. Herbert Raphael M.P. had acquired Gidea Hall in 1897 and 1909 set up Gidea Hall Development Co. with Charles McCurdy and John Tudor Walters, in order to develop a garden suburb.  Plans for the layout were published in 1909 and may have been by Parker and Unwin.  work began in 1910 and The 'Exhibition of Houses and Cottages' was opened in 1911 with 140 houses and cottages by over 100 separate architects - Baillie Scott,  Crickmer, Geoffrey Lucas, Parker & Unwin,  W.Curtis Green, Herbert A. Welch and T.M, Wilson. C.R. Ashbee and Clough Williams Ellis. The exhibition houses were the core of the suburb the shopping centre was never completed and some other plots were filled with standard interwar speculative housing.


Hare Hall Lane
Hare Court. Boring flats 1937.


Main Road
It was the reference is to the Roman road from London to Colchester and called Hare Street. ‘Here’ is Old English for ‘army’ which means it was the ‘army road' - a 'main road suitable for the army'.
St Michael and All Angels. Built in 1938 by J.J. Crowe, Crowe and Careless. The first Anglican place of worship in Gidea Park was St Michael’s Mission Church built in 1928 and then Gidea Park was in the Chapelry of All Saints Squirrels Heath now known as Ardleigh Green. In 1933 the new Parish of St Michael Gidea Park was set up and a Church Hall built, which remains. The Church itself was consecrated in 1938. It is in red brick under a continuous roof with a square tower with louvred shingled roof,
Bishop Chadwick Hall. This was the 1928 mission building
75 timber-framed buildingwith pargetting in the upper floor, was allegedly built for the British Exhibition at White City and brought here as the estate office. Now offices.
93 The Ship Pub, This is an old building behind a 20th half-timbered front, it is probably 17th with later additions.
194-204 The Archers pub. Of this building 198-200 were some of the first of the suburb buildings, completed for the exhibition in 1912. They were built as Shops with flats above
Royal Jubilee Court. Local authority sheltered housing complex
67 Churchill House. Romford Conservative Club.
91 Harvester – chain restaurant in what was The Unicorn pub and has also been called The Cavalier.  A pub called the Unicorn was here in the 18th.


Squirrel’s Heath Avenue,
The designers, Ashbee and Gripper & Stevenson, made a formal layout arranged around an elliptical green. Only one side was completed and the other side was built in conventional speculative fashion of the 1920s.


Station Road
Gidea Park Station. This lies between Harold Wood and Romford stations on the Great Eastern Railway. It was opened in 1910 and originally called Squirrels Heath and Gidea Park Station and within three years it changed to Gidea Park and Squirrels Heath. The Gidea Park Company persuaded the railway company to build the station and forced them to buy the Hare Hall Estate.
Signal Box. This was built above the platform sited on the overbridge

Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Diamond Geezer. Web site
Essex Journal
Field. London Place Names
Gidea Park College Web site
Gidea Park Lawn Tennis Club
Gidea Park Quakers. Web site
Harvester. Web site
London Borough of Havering. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Lost Heritage. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. Essex 
St.Michael and All Angels. Web site
The Ship. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Harold Wood

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The Great Eastern Railway Line from Liverpool Street to Shenfield runs north eastwards from Gidea Park Station

Post to the west Gallows Corner
Post to the north Harold Hill
Post to the east Harold Wood


Arundel Road
Library. Built 1967 by Essex County Council (or it might be 1959). It is very simple on a triangular site, with a shady forecourt.


Athelstan Road
British Legion Hall. This was originally the Harold Wood (United) Methodist church which in 1908 took over an undenominational mission hall which had been registered in 1889. In 1929 they moved to a new site. This is now the local British Legion headquarters. They have a small war memorial in the front garden
Athelstan Hall. This has been a meeting place for The Brethren since 1952.

Gubbins Lane
An old lane overtaken by suburban sprawl.  It runs between the main A12, Colchester Road and Squirrels Heath Road. Gubbins Farm was roughly the area on which Harold Wood was built having been bought by a group of developers in the 1860s.
Harold Wood Station. Built in 1868 it lies between Main Line destinations and Gidea Park Station on Great Eastern Railway. It is in grey brick. The station was built with the sponsorship of the Harold Wood Estate Company. The origins platforms were staggered but this changed in 1934 when the lines were widened and four platforms installed. This was s that through fast trains could pass but not stop here.
Signal box. This went out of use in the 1930s when the role was taken over by Gidea Park and Brentwood boxes,
Goods yard.  Was closed in 1965. A siding ran behind the signal box to serve a brickworks.
Provender mill. In 1895 James and George H. Matthews Ltd., had a shop supplying animal food to dairy farmers. In 1905 they built a mill beside the station and the firm expanded opening other branches and selling fertilisers, seeds, and coal. It was bought by Unilever in 1965 and demolished in 1970.  There are now flats n the site which was south of the railway and west of the road.
Oakdene. Housing on the site of a children’s home which was previously an Essex County Council Boys’ Remand Home.
War Memorial Hall. There is a commemorative plaque to the dead of the Great War on the wall. The hall was built by Edward Bryant who lived in Harold Wood Hall. He built what was called an “Entertainment Hall” “to combat the dullness of village life.” Bryant’s was the Bryan half of Bryant and May match manufactures of Bow. After the War, Bryant gave the hall to the village so that it could become the War Memorial Hall.
The Grange.  The manor house of Gubbins was demolished in the 18th and replaced by a farm. The Grange was built on the site in 1883 standing in 30 acres of grounds, which included a formal garden and an ornamental lake. It became the offices of Compton, who owned the Gubbins estate.  They were millers and seedsmen with businesses across Essex and Suffolk.  In 1909 it became a children’s home for West Ham Borough, and then formed the nucleus of the hospital, which was run by West Ham initially as The Grange convalescent home
Harold Wood Hospital. In 1909 West Ham County Borough acquired The Grange as a children's convalescent home for patients from the Plaistow Fever Hospital.   In 1911 a new block was built.  Named after Dr John Biernacki the Home's first Medical Superintendent and the Physician-Superintendent of the Plaistow Fever Hospital.  In 1930 more blocks were added and the home took chronic adult cases, to relieve the Public Assistance Home at Leyton on a temporary basis.  In the Second World War it took military wounded and civilian air-raid casualties in prefabricated huts built in the grounds. It was known as Harold Wood Hospital and remained as such after the war. It joined the NHS in 1948 and was expanded in the 1960s to become a District General Hospital. The Hospital closed in 2006.  The site was sold to developer to Countryside Properties for housing development called Kings Park. The original house, The Grange, remains
Disablement Services Centre.
The Harold Wood Polyclinic. A GP walk-in health centre in a building, once the McKesson Computer Centre, was opened in 2010.
28-30 Oasis House.  An adult mental health clinic run by the Upminster Community Mental Health Team
24 Harold Wood Community Health Clinic
St. Peter’s Church. Built by J.J. Crowe in 1938-9 as a successor to an iron church in Church Road. The foundation stone was laid by the Matthews brothers, the local millers – and is a memorial to Frederick Lawson Matthews, who was killed in 1916. 
Methodist church. There were Methodists in Harold Wood from 1889. In 1929 a church and school were built in Gubbins Lane, with the aid of funds from William Mallinson. A new church was built in 1962, and the 1929 building to the rear became a hall.
Harold Wood Neighbourhood Centre.   This is in an old school building which was originally a National school opened with the help of John Compton, the main landowner in 1886. In it 1933 was reorganized for juniors and infants and was still in use in 1975


Harold Wood Park.
Harold Wood was a small hamlet on the edge of the Royal hunting park. Housing development began with the opening of a half here by the Great Eastern Railway. Land was given to Hornchurch Urban District Council in 1934 for use by Harold Wood Cricket Club in an area to the east of this square. Harold Wood Park has since had a range of recreational facilities and recently a refurbishment of the tennis courts.

Station road
King Harold Hotel. Built in 1868 as part of the station development

St Clements Avenue
London South Bank University campus.  This is a nursing study centre with 700 Nursing students. There are three nursing skills laboratories set up to replicate hospital wards


Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield.
British History online. Hornchurch.
Clunn. Face of London
Essex Journal
Field. London Place Names
Hornchurch During the Great War. Web site
London Borough of Havering. Web site.
London Gardens Online. Website
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Nairn. Modern Buildings

Great Eastern Railway. Warley Hospital

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Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield  runs north eastwards from Harold Wood Station.

Post to the west Brook Street
Post to the south Warley Road

Crescent Road
The road was laid out about 1859 as part of industrial expansion in the area.
Kavanaghs Road
Warley Hill Bowls Club. This was Warley Hospital Bowls Club which began in 1936 as part of the hospital social club. During the Second World War the green was shared with 'Silver Threads' and 'Three Score' and in 1999 they amalgamated with the main club. The membership had also increased considerably, due to members of what had been the 'Selo Ltd'  employees club who had loat their green when the site was sold. When Warley Hospital site was sold to developers in 1999, Brentwood Borough Council obtained some of the land for leisure activities and this included the bowls green and its surrounds


Pastoral Way
Warley Hospital. This was set up under The County Asylums Act and the Lunacy Act, 1845, by the County of Essex. In 1847, 86 acres of the Brentwood Hall Estate, were purchased from William Kavanagh and the foundation stone was laid in 1851 as the Essex County Lunatic Asylum serving the whole county. The original red brick buildings, accommodating up to 500 people, were designed by H. E. Kendall in the ‘medieval Tudor’ style. It opened in 1853 and was enclosed by a 10 ft brick wall sunk into a ha-ha. Outside the wall were a farm and kitchen garden. In the following years numerous additional blocks and extensions were put in place.  In 1920 it was renamed the Brentwood Mental Hospital.  In July 1948 it joined the NHS under the control of the Warley Hospital Management Committee and in 1953, when the Hospital celebrated its centenary, it was renamed Warley Hospital.  It finally closed in 2001. The original buildings were listed by English Heritage and it has been converted into a gated redevelopment by City and Country known as 'The Galleries'.
The Entrance Building. This was the east front.  There was a reception room, a visitors' room, a committee room, and rooms and residences for senior staff. The entrance hall and arcade were paved with Mintons tiles. 
The Chapel. This was at the centre of the west front but soon proved too small. It was used as a library and later converted into a dormitory
Wards. In one wing there were nine male wards including two infirmaries and in the other wing there were seven wards for women, one of which was an infirmary. 
Galleries– these divided the wards while dormitories and other rooms opened off them. They were built of fire-proof bricks and they were connected by roofed walkways paved with Staffordshire tiles,
The Kitchen had a large cellar, its own courtyard, storerooms, bake house etc. It was replaced in 1910 and the old kitchen, became a needle room.  . 
Other facilities included workshops for tailoring, shoe-making, etc and a brew house. There was a mortuary and a laundry. The asylum had gas lighting a sort of central heating system.
Recreation Hall. This was built in 1879 on the site of the central courtyard,
New chapel. This was built in 1889. This is listed and is now flats
Nurses' Home. This was built in 1900 and renewed in 1930
Garden Villa. This was built in 1944 beside Brentwood Hall
Rose Villa. This block for female convalescents was built to the west of the central kitchen.
Centenary Hall. This opened for the centenary of the hospital and acted as a social centre. In 1957 it had a wide-screen cinema
Duchess of Kent Social Centre built in 1960 with a hospital shop, a tea lounge for patients and their visitors, a library and the Social Therapy Department.  The Nightingale Centre is located in the former Duchess of Kent Social Centre building and provides meeting rooms, hall space and other facilities. It includes The Snap Centre – Special Needs and Parents.
Roman Catholic chapel opened in 1962.  It was dedicated to St Dymphna, patron saint for the mentally ill.
Beechwood Surgery. Opened in October 2006
Filter bed system. This was built in 1854 to deal with chronic sewage problems.

Vaughan Williams Way
Brentwood Hall.  This was purchased for extensions to the asylum. It was demolished in the early 1930s as unsafe. In 1936 a new Brentwood Hall opened on the site with a Occupational Therapy Department on the ground floor
Holly Trees Primary School. The school moved to these new buildings in 1999. They had previously been at a site in Crescent Road
Clements Wood Farm. There is a now a new house on this site

Warley Country Park
Land around the former hospital site. The open space, which has been developed on former hospital farmland, includes areas of naturally colonising secondary woodland, hedgerows, a stream and a pond.

Water Tower Road
The Water Tower. This had a tank which held 10,000 gallons of water pumped by a 7 h.p. non-condensing engine from a reservoir - two more reservoirs were added later. It is now listed and has been converted into The Tower, a private house


Sources
Brentwood Council. Web site
Derelict Places. Web site
Holly Trees Primary School. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
SNAP.  Web site
Ward. Brentwood
Warley Hill Bowls Club. Web site
Warley Hospital. Wikipedia. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Brentwood

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Great Eastern Railway
The Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield runs north eastwards from Harold Wood Station.

Post to the south Warley Hospital

A12 Brentwood Bypass
This bypass was built in 1966 and numbered A12 to replace the London Road to the south.
Honeypot Lane
In the middle ages this was called “White Post Lane”
Hubert Road
The road leaves Kavanagh Road at what would have been the entrance to the Brentwood Brickworks and then continues to London Road along the line of what would have been the brick works boundary.
Brentford Brick Works. This was owned by James Brown Ltd., Kavanagh's Road from the early 20th until the mid-1930s.  It seems likely that this was the works of J.Brown of Essex Wharf, Whitechapel and established there from the mid-19th.  In addition to Brentwood Brown’s had brickworks at Braintree, Boreham, and Upminster.  They specialised in ornamental and moulded bricks and in the early 20th were promoting Brown’s Patent Brick Kiln, developed by James’s son, Arthur, and probably pioneered at Brentwood.
Regent House. This was the head office of major pharmaceutical company, May and Baker.  There are now other firms there.
Hubert Road Industrial Estate
La Plata Wood
Secondary woodland with a stream and a pond
London Road
This is part of the Roman road from London to Colchester. It was turnpiked in 1726 with this stretch under the London and Middlesex Trust. It is now bypassed by the new A12.
British Telecom building. This replaced St.Faith’s Hospital. Arup Associates were commissioned to design this in 1997. It was to be a ‘Workstyle’ building which would provide social hubs for people to meet and exchange ideas, with facilities for the knowledge-based workers of the future. Over the previous years, the BT offices in Brentwood were occupied by ‘fixed desk’ employees. And the building cost more per employee because desks were underutilised.   The object was to reduce the office space required, and make a discrete part of the building available for sub- letting. The office is partly used by BT Retail and Office Division.
St.Faith's Hospital. This began as an Agricultural and Industrial School owned by St.Leonard's, Shoreditch.  It was taken over by Brentwood School District in 1877 and expanded.  In 1885 this was changed to the Hackney Union, who further expanded it and it was known as the Hackney Branch Institution. In 1916 it was taken over by the Metropolitan Asylums Board as the Brentwood Epileptic Colony for women and in 1935 by then under Essex County Council it was renamed St Faith's Hospital.   St Faith is apparently a corruption of St Vedast also known in England as St Foster, as in the City Church St. Vedast, alias Foster. The hospital closed in 1985.  The buildings were demolished in 1998.  The site is now British Telecom offices
St Faith's Country Park. This opened in 1999 from land making up the grounds of St Faith's Hospital. It is made up of grassland surrounded by mature hedgerows, with a wood, streams and a pond. The grassland supports many wild plants, and there are kestrels hunting for small mammals in the rough grass. There are also slow worms and grass snakes
Cemetery. Opened by Brentwood Burial Board in 1893 it is now owned by Brentwood Council, who supports a volunteer horticulture project there. There are 32 war graves

Rollason Way
New housing on the site of Brentwood Gas Works

Weald Road
73 Weald House. 18th house with service wing at the back
Convalescent Home for Children. Opened 1879.
Wharf Road
Brentwood Gas Works. This lay off the London and had connections to the Great Eastern Railway.  The Brentwood Gas Light and Coke Co had been set up in 1834 in Crown Street and this works in Wharf Road was built in 1858. The Company became statutory only in 1898. The works was modernised in 1924-26 and the final plant consisted of an 800,000 c/ft. per day horizontal retort house with Drake’s combined stoking machinery and a single CWG plant.  It was taken over by the Gas Light & Coke Co. (aka ‘The Chartered and based in Westminster) in 1932 when its annual output was 125 million cubic feet. They closed the works the following year but the site remained in use as a gasholder station. In 1949 the largest holder of 1 million cubic feet was used for investigations to determine the value and distribution of wind pressures.  The site is now modern housing and a park.

Sources
Archives of the Chemical Industry
Brentwood Council. Web site
British History Online. Web site
British Listed Buildings. Web site.
BT. Web site
Commonwealth War Graves. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
SABRE. A12 Web site
Stewart. Gas Works in the North Thames Area.

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Brentwood

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The Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield runs westward from Harold Wood Station, into Brentwood Station, and beyond

Post to the west Brentwood

Alexandra Road
Engine Shed. This was in the space at the eastern end of the road used as the station car park. The shed closed in 1949. It had three roads and was opened in 1872.

Coptfold Road
This was once called Love Lane
Coptford House. Private flats in what were council offices. This was built in the 1970s and used by Essex County Council's social services.  This is on the site of what was a school.
The National Schools moved here in 1869 having originally been founded in the 1830s. They were set back from the road and intended for the children of the labouring poor.  Here, they received annual government grants from 1871 and had endowments from John Cotton and John Offin. It was soon very overcrowded. The schools were enlarged in 1883 and in 1893 by selling some of the assets of the charitable endowments. It was taken over by Essex County Council in 1902.In 1936 the schools were reorganized for juniors and infants. The school eventually moved to new buildings in Shenfield in 1968. Coptfold House was built on the site.
Church House. This was on the corner with New Road and was part of the site later taken over by Coptfold House.
Queens Inn. This stood on the west corner with New Road
Clever Clogs Nursery School. This was built as a Police Station in 1844 and closed in 1937. It was then used the Brentwood branch of Essex County Library. It is now a children’s nursery school.
Becket House. This tower block was built as offices but has been remodelled as flats

Cornsland
The Priory. House originating in a 16th hall with many alterations. This has a pegged timber frame with 19th extension. It survives mostly in its original condition
Crown Street
5 19th building white painted and rendered, with original slate roof, sashes and shop window. Once a motorbike dealership
Brentwood Gas Light Co. this was established at the south end of the road in 1836 but moved in 1858 nearer to the railway to allow for easier coal deliveries.
Breakthrough Church. Evangelical church.
Cottages. These are in a backland space, between this street and South Street. There is a plaque saying ‘Crown Street 1854’.

Eastfield Road
Brescia House. This is a building was part of the Ursuline Convent. It has more recently been used as offices but was originally constructed to provide additional bedroom accommodations for The Sisters.
St Thomas Church Hall. From the 1950s this was used by the Banyard School of Dancing but it was sold and demolished in 1986.  There are now flats on the site.

Fairfield Road
Job Centre and other offices in Fairfield House
Brentwood Boxing Academy. This is an old tyre depot now used as a gym for young boxers
Hart Street
Was originally known as Back Lane. The medieval town lay between this road and the High Street
Market – this was sited at the east end of the street at the junction with High Street and Crown Street.  It had been granted to the Abbott of St.Osyth in 1227 as the owner of Costed Manor. It was sited on the highest ground in the town and was a focus for the whole area. It was regulated by the manor court, which appointed aleconners, leathersealers, and inspectors of meat and fish. It was held weekly, plus an annual fair day until 1790.
Great Stompfords Farmhouse.  This is a 16th building which was divided into three cottages in the 1960s and then demolished for the Hart Street car park in 1970.
Fire Station. This opened as a fire station in 1903 and was there until 1948. Now a barber.  It was put into its present condition in 2004 and given a traditional style shop front. A new wrought iron arch at the side leads to a cobbled footpath where outbuildings have been turned into shops
27 Gardener’s Arms.  Probably the old building for the workhouse opened in 1745 and Extended in 1805 for 60 people, with a workroom.  In 1836 it was closed and the paupers were sent to the Union Workhouse at Billericay.  It has been a pub since at least the 1880s.
39 a timber-framed building from the early 16th was found before it was demolished. It was a long wall jetty house with a plan thought  to reflect cramped urban conditions
Malthouse. This was on the south side in the 18th.
The Square. Block of new flats on the corner with Kings Road. They are over an underground car park. At the corner is a five storey tower with a pyramidal roof

High Street
This is part of the Roman road from London to Colchester but there was no Roman settlement here.  
Horse trough and drinking fountain. It has the date of 1910 and names 'George & John Larkin' who were local philanthropists.
The local Cage and Pound were at the east end of the street in the 16th and 17th
Plane tree with seats beneath it
Public lavatories, partially underground and enclosed by a brick wall with low railings designed to make them unobtrusive and screened by shrub planting.
10 Kentucky Fried Chicken. The former White Horse public house which was licensed from the 1820s. This has a brick ground floor with two doors and suspended lanterns above.
12 now the Halifax Building Society, the 18th building was called The Mansion House and in the 20th the home of a local doctor. There are wrought iron railings to the ground floor
16 site of Davey’s Dairy. In the yard at the back were crates of different grades of milk, already bottled. With a retail shop in front
25 Halfords is a late 20th remodelling of a three-storey stock brick building which has been clad in lead.
The Ship, later the Yorkshire Grey, was on the north side of the street. It was in business until 1960 and Demolished 1961.  It had a bowling green and a bowls club attached.
26-28 The Arcade. This was converted in 1954 when it was turned into sixteen units at the rear of Ripley’s garage which had originally been built in 1924.
30 The Post Office. This was originally built in the 1890s and rebuilt 1939-41. The Post Office itself is now in the W.H.Smith building.
Millennium Clock, This is on spindly legs to which an advertising panel is fixed.
35 Thomas Cook. Shop front with a symmetrically designed brick first floor with Crittall windows. A 20th refronting of an older building. A carriage arch leads to Culyers Yard, probably a stable
39-41 Monsoon. The upper floors are decorated with an abstract 1950s style pattern.
42. This was formerly Burtons and there is a foundation stone laid in 1939 by Austin Stephen Burton. The building is in the usual Art Deco style of Burtons.  This was the site of the Chequers Inn. Before the railway came this was a stop for coaches and had been a pub from 1769 or earlier but closed in 1937. It was a timber-framed 16th building.
Chapel of St. Thomas. This was built in 1221 by the Abbot of St.Osyth on the main route from Ongar to Canterbury with an eye to the pilgrim trade in a town which had been promoted and built by the Abbey. It was a Chapel of Ease to the church at South Weald. Until the middle of the 18th it was still used for divine service. It was sold for demolition when the new church was built became the Boys National School in 1836. Most of it was demolished when the school moved.  In 1900 it was fenced in on the street side by Christopher John Hume Tower, J.P.    It is built of flint rubble with some Kentish Ragstone and Reigate stone. All that survives is part of the nave, and a stump of the tower, which unusually was located inside the nave. The footprint of the chapel is marked out with lines of rounded flints. The railings were erected in 1902 when restoration work was carried out.
National School. In 1836 St. Thomas's chapel was converted into a National school. From 1839 it was maintained by the Rev. William Tower master of Brentwood school. In 1869 new schools were opened in Love Lane, later called Coptfold Road.
Bay Tree Centre. Shopping precinct built in 1975 as Chapel Centre to the south of the ruined chapel. This is now called the Bay Tree Centre and it stands on the site of the Odeon Cinema.
The Odeon was built on the site of the chapel and the ruins of the chapel gardens were kept as a decorative feature in front of the cinema. It was Built for Oscar Deutsch’s Odeon Theatres Ltd. chain, and opened in 1938. The facade was plain with cream tiles and three large windows which let light into the circle foyer. In the auditorium Art Deco bands on the walls contained hidden lighting. It closed in 1974 and was taken over by Brentwood Council under a compulsory purchase order and demolished immediately. A twin-screen cinema was incorporated into the new shopping centre called Focus 1 & 2 and opened in 1974. In 1984 they became part of the Classic Cinemas chain and then taken over by the Cannon Group and re-named Cannon Cinemas, and later still re-named ABC.  In the late-1990’s they were taken over by Odeon Theatres and because Asbestos was found in the building it was closed in 2000.
Crown. This was a coaching inn, which was to the west of the chapel. It included a post office in 1790s. It closed in 1818 and the premises were used as a lecture room. It is thought to have existed in the 16th and may have existed as early as the 14th. In 1797 they had 3 post chaises and 13 post horses. The buildings had been demolished by 1927.
43-45 Marks and Spencer store originally built for Woolworths in 1969. It was built on the site of a mansion called The Red House. Which was demolished pre-Second World War
44, Pepperell House. One of only three Georgian buildings. It may incorporate a late medieval building.
49 site of an old house known as Franks. Demolished in the early 1950s
51 Boots is on site of the Sainsbury’s store of 1967 which was itself on the site of the Palace Cinema. It is a long three-storey building faced in prefabricated concrete panels. The Palace cinema, High Street, existed by 1914, and was owned by Dorrin and Partners. It was reopened after rebuilding in 1934, and was finally closed in 1968
57-59 Sainsbury’s in the 1920s.
60-64 a group of surviving late medieval buildings. 62 This seems to have originally been a 1400 hall with 60 and 64 being crossings together forming an H-plan house.
63-65 one of the few surviving late medieval buildings here. Rebuilt in 1973,
67 Lion and Lamb, now a shop, is an old inn refurbished between the wars with a façade of handmade red bricks.
The George, later George and Dragon, was on the eastern corner with Crown Street. It existed in 1407 and closed in 1906. The building was demolished in 1970 and was a timber framed, probably 15th structure.
82 Slug and Lettuce
86 O’Neills
89 brick façade rebuilt in the 20th. It has an old weatherboarded attic extension.
91 HSBC, a former Midland Bank branch erected in 1921, grand classical presence on the frontage,
93 White Hart. This is now called the Sugar Hut, The Georgian brickwork façade was replaced in the 20th. It has a coaching yard but dates to the late 15th.  It May be the site of an even earlier inn and 13th pottery has been found in the courtyard. It was the most important of the Brentwood coaching inns and it had an excise office in it in 1793; petty sessions were also heard there. There were Shove halfpenny championships here in the 1790s. There is a galleried rear range of about 1500.
93-95 site of the Assize House which was built in 1579 on the site later used for the Town Hall. It was used Quarter Sessions and Crown Assizes. It was a timber framed building with decorated barge boards but by 1830 it was being used as shops. The Town Hall was built in here 1864, on the site of the Assize House. It was held on lease by a limited company – the Town Hall Company which had built it. It was demolished in 1963.
94 Co-op Funeral Care may be an older building given a brick façade and sash windows in the 19th.
101 is a recent development which has recreated the look of a late medieval building with two gables facing the street. At the ground floor, there is a traditional style shop front.
102 unsuspected remains of a significant timber-framed building were found here. The timber frame only survived at first floor; its style was unusual, and suggests that it belonged to a tradition current in south Essex and the London area.
Bell Inn. This closed in 1951 and was demolished in 1970. It stood on the south side somewhere near 104. It was recorded from 1454, when its sign was repainted.
108-114 a row of older buildings, some of which are amongst the oldest in the town. They are all timber-framed
109 is a wide two-storey 19th building, with a carriage arch with its original surround is a striking feature of the building
110 is a two bay 16th-century cross-wing with a crown post roof, possibly once jettied and housing a medieval shop.
111 site of Brentford’s first supermarket. A Tesco was opened in here in 1955.
120, Bennetts Funeral Directors, possibly an earlier building remodelled. Its appearance is enhanced by a high standard of maintenance
123 Swan Hotel.  This former hotel has some Edwardian features, including dark wood panelling and leaded windows. It was rebuilt in 1935 in handmade brick
125-127b, the Litten Tree, wooden shop front within polished granite pilasters inherited from a previous use
129-129a Prezzo, has a traditional shop front set in an impressive early 19th brick façade, behind the rear there is a weather boarded outbuilding and a yard with skips.
141 Sir Charles Napier was on the corner with Weald Road and s another well detailed public house. It was built of handmade brick, with false half timbering on the first floor. Demolished
Brewery. This was owned by Thomas Hill, and later John Hill & Co. They had premises in the High Street in 1863 and later in Warley Road. It was bought up by Ind Coope in 1900.
The Marquis of Granby. This was on north side of the street, east of Weald Road. It had closed by 1829.
Heritage Column sculpture by Gary Thrussell located here in 2004. The Heritage Column was erected in April 2004. It was designed by sculptor and blacksmith Gary Thrussell and traces the history of Brentwood from its origins to modern times. It was inspired by John Fryer’s book ‘Brentwood - A Concise Pictorial History’

Ingrave Road
Cathedral of St Mary and St Helen. Roman Catholic Cathedral was dedicated in 1991. The architect Quinlan Terry was commissioned to build the church in the Classical style and Work began in 1989. It was decided to retain part of the Gothic revival church of 1861. The cathedral is lit by brass English Classical chandeliers one of which came from a church in Epping.  The Bishop’s chair was made in Pisa, and has steps of Portland stone and there is a great deal more in the church.
Church of St. Helen.  This was opened in 1837, with the aid of money from Lord Petre and Joseph S. Lescher. The original church became a school in 1861, when a larger church was built next door
Church of the Sacred Heart and St. Helen, was given by Lord Petre. In 1917, when the diocese of Brentwood was formed, the church became a cathedral. It was a ragstone building in Gothic style. It was enlarged in 1974, by John Newton, to provide for both parish and diocesan use. Meeting halls were provided on the north and west
St. Helen's Roman Catholic school. A school had been started in 1848 which in 1861 took over and enlarged the former St. Helen's chapel. It had a government grant from 1872. Eventually in the 1960s the school was transferred to new buildings elsewhere.
38 Regency House is the former bishop’s residence, now used as offices
Clergy House, in white brick
Office buildings, built in 1982 by Lawrence King and used by the Catholic Church
Convent building of 1873. There was also an orphanage here in the 19th. 
Song School. A 19th brick building originally a chapel,
Brentwood School. This is a private fee paying school, albeit with an old foundation as a local grammar school. In 1557 Sir Antony Browne bought Weald Hall, some of which remains, as a site for the school and a charter was granted by the Crown. Old Big School was built in 1568. It first operated as a boarding school from 1765, however the school was close to collapse in the early 19th but recovered and from the 1850s flourished and in the 1870s began an emphasis on sport. A chapel was built in 1868. A ‘Preparatory’ School opened in 1892. In the early 20th new buildings and sports facilities, including a swimming pool, were built – continued with a (War) Memorial Hall, the Bean Library, squash courts, gymnasium and a rifle range. Other buildings were bought or added. In the 1970s girls began to be admitted, at first only to the sixth form and many expensive facilities followed – running tracks, science centres, design centres, et al. Many pupils now do not board and there are five day houses and two boarding houses, and for girls and one for boys. The School buildings are in a range of architectural styles, mostly in red brick and oversized. The older school buildings are set back behind grass and trees.
Barnards is a Georgian house which has been part of the School since the early 20th century.
Old School House, a building dated 1773, with a bay added in 1864.
Big Old School, This is a 16th brick building with an upper floor dormitory added in 1855. It forms a long range parallel to the road
School chapel. This dates from 1868
Main school building. Built 1910 by Frederic Chancellor in a Tudor style with a central gatehouse tower
17 lodge in red brick
Otway House, built in 1878 this was originally the vicarage to for the parish church, but bought by the school, and extended. It has a boundary wall with distinctive brickwork
Martyr’s Elm. An elm tree stood here and was said to mark the spot where William Hunter was burnt at the stake in 1555. The remains of the 400 year old elm were removed in 1952. In 1936 an oak tree was planted here to mark the accession of King George VI, and stands near the spot where the elm was.
Wilson’s Corner. This is the corner building at the junction with Shenfield Road. It is the site of Wilson’s department store, a three storey shop with a clock tower which burnt down in 1909. It was rebuilt but closed in 1978.  The building is in use by a variety of shops.
Council Offices and Town Hall. This includes a clock from the demolished town hall building in the High Street. The current complex was built in 1957 and extended in 1984. A clock from Warley Barracks was mounted in the wall.
Mellon House. This was Hambro House and is a large office block in red brick
Artichoke Inn. This is now a Toby Carvery

King Edward Road
Brentwood Sea Cadets Hall
1 Kingsgate. Office block built in 1985 on the site of the Parade Cinema

Kings Road
Was previously known as Warley Lane.
Brentwood Station. This lies between Harold Wood and Shenfield Stations on the Great Eastern Railway. It was opened by the Eastern Counties Railway when they extended here in 1840 from Romford.   From 1882 it was called Brentwood and Warley which reflected the growing catchment area. The tracks through the station were increased to four in 1934 when the station was also rebuilt. Following nationalisation it was electrified in 1949. It has been known as simply Brentwood since 1969.
Goods Yard. This lay to the west of the station and reached as far as the gas works, to which there were sidings. At the western end there were also cattle sidings and pens. Other customers for the goods yard included Thomas Moy and the London Co-op.  There was a considerable incline, Brentford Bank, as the line neared and entered the goods yard and ultimately the station.  The goods yard closed in 1970.
Signal Box. During the widening of the lines in 1934 a four storey signal box was provided close to the goods yard. In the Second World War it was strengthened with a brick base. The box closed in 1971 but the brick base remains.
Railway Hotel. Owned by brewer John Hill in 19th. This was to the north of the station and may have been near the junction with Queen’s Road.
171 Highway House. Office block
Burial Ground. This dates from 1755 when Non-conformists built their New Meeting chapel having left the Old Meeting in Weald Road. The Kings Road chapel was demolished in 1847 when the congregation moved to the chapel in New Road.
161 Murphy’s Sports Bar
19 print works building. Used most recently by the Westbury Press
Mission Hall. This was in the area now covered by buildings at the rear of the Bennett’s funeral business.
Fielders Brewery was on the corner of Primrose Hill. They had two deep wells here for water and had opened, probably, in the 1850s. It was taken over in 1923 and mainly demolished.
Baptist Chapel.  This originated in 1885 and an iron hall was built in King's Road in 1886 and called Brentwood Tabernacle. In 1910 this was sold and in 1912–32, a church was built on a different site in King's Road. It was damaged by bombing in 1940, and rebuilt.
Winter Brothers brick and tile business. This was active here in 19th and the firm also operated as monumental masons. A brick kiln lay to the east in 19th in the area now covered by Chase Road.

New Road
Congregational Chapel.  This is now the United Reform Church. It is a church and church hall, built in 1847 with the hall added in 1982. It is in brick, with a stuccoed front.
Court House. This was built for the County Court in 1848 and is now a private health facility.
Brentwood Library. This Essex County Council library was opened by the Princess Royal in 1991.
Brentwood Technical School. This was opened here in 1910 by Essex County Council as a cookery and handicraft centre. It closed in 1936


Ongar Road
A Volunteer drill hall, built in Ongar Road in 1886, was sold by the Territorial Army in 1970.  The site now forms an entrance to the Sainsbury’s supermarket. The hall was the base for the 414 Battery of the 104th (Essex Yeomanry Regiment) Royal Horse Artillery, Territorial Army. A plaque in the Town Hall records their Second World War service in Palestine and how they eventually became the 14th Royal Horse Artillery
City Coach Company. This had its entrance from Ongar Road and the site became eventually the Thermos Factory. The Company had devolved from a number of companies which the City Motor Omnibus Co Ltd in the 1920s and which included many services between Kentish Town and Southend. The Company also built a Head Office and depot at Brentwood in 1938 having acquired a number of operators in that area during 1936.  They operated local services as well as and longer distance route from Southend to Wood Green and Kentish Town. The Company closed following post nationalisation in 1953.
Thermos. The thermos flask was invented in 1892 by James Dewar. The Thermos Company originated in 1904 in Tottenham and expanse rapidly with a number of units, one of which in 1938 moved to a factory in Leyton. In 1961 the Leyton factory was closed and the production based there moved to Brentwood. It is said that they occupied the buildings of the City Coach Company. They sold the site to Salisbury’s in 1996 and moved to Thetford.
17 Eclipse night club in what was The Castle pub, which closed in 2007

Primrose Hill
The Brentwood Spiritualist Church. This was founded in 1942 and members were told clairvoyantly that they would have a permanent Church, that it would be situated on a hill, in a garden, nestling under a large tree. In 1945 they rented some old army huts here and in 1955 they bought the property. There have been subsequent improvements completed in 2005.
28 Brewery Tap. 19th public house. It was once a single storey wing of a large building of Fielder’s brewery, and has since been modified.
Brentwood Methodist church. A church was built in 1845 in Primrose Hill. In 1880 it was purchased by the Brethren. It was later used by the Full Gospel church which originated in 1928. In 1957 the church took over the Brethren's chapel

Queens Road
Telephone exchange. This was set up by the post office in 1899 and built in 1932. Closed in 1973.
Glad Tidings Hall. The Assemblies of God registered the Hall, Queen's and in 1957 moved to the former Brethren's chapel in Primrose Hill.
Montpelier House. Taken over in 1912 to provide a new County High School. It had been built in 1879 to provide a girl’s boarding school by Kate Bryan.
The Convent of Mercy. This was founded in 1872 by sisters from St. Joseph's convent, Chelsea came to teach in local schools. Helen Tasker, Countess Tasker of Middleton Hall, Shenfield, built a small convent in Queen's Road. The sisters also had a boys' orphanage, endowed by the countess, and later a girls' orphanage. They continued until 1950. In 1974 the convent moved away.
The Ursuline Convent was founded in 1900, when sisters from Upton, came to Brentwood to open a high school for girls.
Ursuline Convent High School. Set up in a house called Matlock in 1900.  They later moved to a house called Fairview.  The school became comprehensive in 1979 but has recently become an academy.
Steam corn mill. This lay back from the road east of Rose Valley and is said to have been owned by a John Emery and to have had a beam engine.
Rose Mount. This was a mansion on the south side of Queens Road east of Rose Valley. It was later called “Five Wells”. It was demolished before 1960.
88 Spread Eagle. The pub probably dates from the 1860s.

Rose Valley
Brick field in the 19th
Industrial School set up by London School Board as Prospect House in 1874 – the first school of its type run by the London School Board. The building was then taken over by Joseph Hibbard, auctioneers. Following work done at the school by Rosemary Davenport Hill it was renamed The Davenport Hill School for Boys and moved to Byfleet and then Margate
Brentwood High School for Boys.  Private school run from the mid 19th. Settled on this site in the 1880s.
Air Training Corps 1483 (Brentwood) Squadron.  The Squadron was officially formed on the 28th of June 1941 and the headquarters were opened on the 20th of May 1989 by Vice Lord Lieutenant of Essex, Captain R. P. Laurie.

Seven Arches Road
Brentford County School for Girls. In 1876 a private school for girls was opened in Queen's Road, Brentwood.  In the early 20th this was taken over by Essex County Council and reopened as Brentwood County High School. In 1927 the school moved to Shenfield Common and it was later extended, it became a mixed comprehensive school in 1978. New specialist buildings have been added.

Shenfield Road
Monument. This was  erected by public subscription in 1861 to the memory of William Hunter a Protestant martyr and native of Brentwood, who, in 1555, aged nineteen, was burnt to death near here by order of Bishop Bonner for denying the doctrine of transubstantiation.
Mitre House. It dates from the 15th century and is H-plan with a hall between two cross-wings, though its actual age is disguised. Now a boarding house for Brentwood School.


St James Road
Housing. On the site of what was a malthouse for the Hill Brewery
Trading Estate, on the site of a previous Council yard. 

St Thomas Road
Church of St. Thomas. The church was built in 1883 to replace a smaller church of 1835. It had become Brentwood’s parish church in 1873.  The original church was east of the chapel of St. Osyth, and built on the site of a nursery garden. There were structural problems and was therefore rebuilt in 1882-3. It is in flint and pebble with stone dressings and has a tower and spire added in 1886 with a clock and eight bells.

The Parade
Parade Cinema. This belonged to Dorrin and Partners and opened in 1921. It closed after damage by bombing in 1941. It was later used as a warehouse by a Southend motor parts supplier. In the 1960s it became a discotheque called Bubbles, and was then demolished.

Weald Road
Old Meeting. In 1707 there was a Presbyterian congregation here and within ten years there was a permanent meeting-house here. The old meeting closed 1800 and had between Weald Lane and Tower Hill, approached by a passage from Weald Lane.
Bardeswell Social Club. This was the labour club and the close is on the site of sports facilities.
Western Road
First council houses built by Brentwood Urban District Council in 1902.


Wharf road
Bowling green
Tennis court


Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Brentwood Cathedral. Web site
Brentwood School. Web site
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Closed Pubs Project. Web site
British History. Online. Brentwood.
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Essex Chronicle. Web site
Essex Journal
Grace’s Guide. Web site
James.  Chemical Industry in Essex
London Transport Museum. Web site
Peaty. Brewery Railways
Pub History. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. Essex
Ward. Brentwood

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Shenfield Common

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Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
From Brentwood Station the line curves sharply north eastwards

Post to the west Brentwood

Hogarth Avenue
Endeavour School. School for children with complex needs. It was opened in 1970.
Ingrave Road
Four Oaks. This was Brentwood Cottage Hospital which opened around 1883 and was rebuilt in 1895, due to the efforts of Dr. J.C. Quennell. In 1921 it became part of a war memorial to men killed in the Great War and was renamed Brentwood District Hospital. In the 1930s there were plans to extend it but a 20 acre site in Crescent Drive was offered for a new Hospital which opened in 1934 as the Brentwood District Hospital. In 1947 the Ingrave Road site became a maternity hospital and joined the NHS in 1948 as the Brentwood Maternity Home. It closed in 1974.  The buildings are now a housing scheme. On the southern elevation is a plaque to Dr. John Cooper Quennell, who did much to enable rebuilding of the Hospital.
Billericay Rural District Council Sewage pumping station lay on the south east side of the railway bridge. Brentwood sewage had been dealt with by the Billericay Poor Law Union. 
Three Arch Bridge

Maple Crescent
Maple Community Hall

Middleton Hall Lane
Brentwood School Sports fields and ancillary buildings.

Orchard Avenue
Thriftwood International Scout Camp, with purpose built facilities.

Riseway
Hogarth County Junior and Infant Schools. The junior school was opened in 1954 and the infant school in 1955

Seven Arches Road
Seven Arches Bridge. This railway bridge was constructed in 1842 to 1843

Shenfield Common
In the Domesday Book the name is “Chenefield” meaning 'good lands'.
This is an area of common land which is managed by the Shenfield Common Conservators. In 1934 the government transferred the appointment of the Conservators of Shenfield Common to Brentwood Borough Council, however the Chair is nominated by the Lord of the Manor. The membership of the Conservators comprises of Borough Councillors and members of the local community. In the 19th some areas were sold off and cleared for pasture. Works for the railway in the 1840's meant a lot of change and the common was used to dump excavated soil. In 1881 commoner's rights were extinguished and it became a public park. Four oak trees were planted by four Parish Chairs in 1900 for the start of the 20th and an avenue of lime trees planted in 1895 to give work to the unemployed.  The trees along Seven Arches Road were planted for the coronation of King Edward VII.  A bandstand has been removed but was used by the military bands from Warley Barracks. It stood in a gravel pit near the pond. The common is now largely wooded.
Mill Pond.  Provides habitats for birds and ducks, invertebrates and dragonflies and is said to have been use for milling in the 19th. A windmill stood in The Chase nearby.
The road down the north east side of Shenfield Common follows the parish boundary


Sources
Brentwood Council. Web site
British History Online. Brentwood Web site.
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield - Thrift Wood

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The Great Eastern Railway from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
The line runs north eastwards from Brentwood Station

Post to the west Shenfield Common

Hanging Hill Lane
5 Hare Hall. 16th house with alterations from 1965. It is timber-framed, and part plastered with exposed false framing and part weatherboarded,
Gypsy Corner

Hare Hall Shaw
This is a small area of woodland kept as a screen for various housing developments from the 1970s and 1980s and is the remnants of what was once a large expanse of woodland. Species include Hornbeam coppice with occasional pedunculate oak and ground flora including bluebells.  It is maintained by Brentwood Borough Council.  There is a pond at the south end.
Thrift Wood
This large ancient woodland is used as a Scout camp and consequently the woodland contains many buildings and areas for tents and activities. The woodland comprises hornbeam coppice with pedunculate and sessile oak. Other tree and shrub species include silver birch, sweet chestnut,Lime etc. There are a number of ponds in the wood including the northern fishing lake.


Sources
Brentwood Council. Web site
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Crossrail Report. Web site

Great Eastern Railway to Shenfield. Hutton Mount

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Railway Line from Liverpool Street to Shenfield
The line running from Brentwood Station runs north eastwards

Post to the south Thrift Wood
Post to the north Shenfield

Abbots Close
On the site of Shenfield brickworks. The company took over the Cranham brick works in 1906 and became the Shenfield and Cranham Brick Co. and later Colliers. Bricks were hand made and sold as ‘Shenfield Reds’ and ‘Shenfield Brindles’.

Brockley Grove
Hutton and Shenfield UC Lawn Tennis Club. The Club was established in 1919 and has about 150 adult and 100 junior members using five astroturf courts, four with floodlights
Hutton and Shenfield Union Church. The church was founded in 1913, by the Baptist and Congregational Unions, to serve the growing community in and around Hutton Mount. Thus the ministry alternates between the Baptists and the United Reformed Church.
Brockley Wood

Herrington Grove
Built on the area of what was Herrington’s Farm

Hutton Road
63 Shenfield Library

Mount Area
This is one of the roads in the area known as Hutton Mount – quasi upmarket housing built in the 1930s.

Peahill Wood

Priests Lane
Brickfield Cottages. Built in 1898 these lie in a close which would have been adjacent to the brickfield.

Railway
A stream rises to the west of the railway, passes under it and flows north as a tributary to the river Wid.
Goods and other facilities stretched south on the eastern side of the railway parallel to what is now Herrington Road. This area is now covered by a large station car park, accessed by a path running from Mount Avenue.  Some railway infrastructure buildings remain there but it once contained goods facilities including cattle pens and a railway turntable.

Sources
Brennand. Ilford to Shenfield
Hutton and Shenfield UC Lawn Tennis Club. Web site
Hutton and Shenfield Union Church. Web site
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