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River Ash Queen Mary Reservoir

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River Ash
The Ash flows southwards and is diverted around the west side of the Queen Mary reservoir

Post to the north Ashford
Post to the south Queen Mary Reservoir


Ashford Road
The White House recycling depot
Scout Hall for the 4th Ashford Scouts
Electricity Grid Sub Station



Fordbridge Road
Ashford Manor Golf Course. In 1898 Ashford and Staines played golf on Staines Moor. In 1902 the "New Manor Golf Club Ashford Company" was set up and the estate was bought from property developers. The original Ashford Manor house and grounds formed the home of the Club and this continues. The club prospered and improvements were made to the club house
Fordbridge Park.  Local authority park with various facilities


Queen Mary Reservoir
This is an operational reservoir. It is a large open body of water used for recreational activities, with a baffle approximately 1kmn long that runs south west two thirds of the way across the reservoir. It acts as a breakwater, aids circulation and reduces wave action on the eastern bank. Two baffles were originally planned, but plans were changed when work resumed in the 1920s.   The reservoir has been dredged for sand and gravel. It was inaugurated by George V and Queen Mary in 1924 having been started in 1914 and the stopped because of the Great War in 1916 and then restarted. The final contractor was Pearson. Construction involved nearly 2,000 men, two power houses and a railway.
The site is designated a Site of Nature Conservation Importance.


Sources
Ashford Manor Golf Club. Web site
Metropolitan Water Board. Fifty years review 1903-1953
Spelthorne Council. Web site
Surrey County Council. Web site

River Ash Queen Mary Reservoir

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River Ash
The River Ash follows the west bank of the Queen Mary Reservoir and then swings west and continues southwards

Post to the north Queen Mary Reservoir
Post to the south Shepperton Studios


Queen Mary Reservoir. 
Reservoir. Designed by John Watson Gibson for the Metropolitan Water Board.  The reservoir is now owned by Thames Water. 200,000,000 gallons if of water are pumped into it each day from the intake at Panton Hook.
Round Copse
Littleton Pumping Station
, This pumps water from the Thames intake into the Queen Mary Reservoir. It was constructed at the same time as the reservoir in 1924. There is a large engine hall, with the boiler house adjoining to the rear constructed by John Laing and Co, Both in red brick. Inside is an elevated office for the chief engineer with views over the whole space. The hall roof is lined with mahogany, with a metal gantry. The walls have white glazed bricks with green glazed tiles lower down. There are four horizontal steam engines by Ashworth & Parker coupled to four centrifugal pumps by Worthington Simpson. The pumping capacity was 75,000,000 gallons a day. They were boosted by an electric motor in 1951 of 775 hp. Steam powered pumping ended in 1970 and three pumps are operated by direct current electric motors. Power for lighting and other functions was supplied by two inverted vertical compound steam engines driving dynamos by Lancashire Dynamo & Motor Co, also in the main hall. After electrification in 1970 one of the sets was preserved, but is not useable.


Sources
Engineering Time Lines. Web site
Metropolitan Water Board. 50 Years Review
Queen Mary Reservoir. Wikipedia. Web site

River Ash Shepperton Studios

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River Ash
The River Ash flows south eastwards

Post to the north Queen Mary Reservoir
Post to the east Littleton

Laleham Road
Littleton Recreation Ground.  The usual variety of facilities.


River Ash
A length of the river is in the studio are and has been used by film makers – it was the river in 'Sanders of the River' made by Korda’s British Lion in 1946

Shepperton Studios
Littleton House. This house was built by Thomas Wood ranger of Hampton Court in 1689  and used as as his family home until the 19th.  It was and burnt down in 1874, also destroying a painting by William Hogarth. Following a fire the house was restored by Sir Richard Burbridge Managing Director of Harrods. He used timber from the original Palace of Westminster for a small replacement. This was divided in the 20th into a staggered terraced estate and the front studios of Shepperton Studios
Shepperton Film Studios are based round Littleton Park which Norman Loudon purchased in 1931 for his film company, Flicker Productions, and it became, Sound Film Producing & Recording Studios. Thus had seven sound stages, twelve cutting rooms, three viewing theatres, scene docks and workshops, and the old house provided hotel and restaurant facilities.  In the Second World War the studio was used by the government to store sugar storage and studio technicians made decoy and later the Ministry of Aircraft Production made Vickers Wellington parts here. In 1945, it was taken over by Alexander Korda and British Lion Studios. The Third Man was filmed here in 1949 but British Lion went into receivership in the 1960s and then British Lion Films, was formed and the studio became known as a place for strong independent film makers. Later the Boulting brothers took the studios over. In the next decades production was erratic despite some famous and successful films made there and by the late 1970s reached a very low point. It was decided to sell some of the land for housing. In 1984, the studios were taken over by the Lee brothers and then by Bankers Warbug Pincus who filmed TV shows here as well as major films. In 1995, the studios were purchased by a consortium headed by Ridley and Tony Scott, and they renovated the studios and the grounds. In 2001 they became part of the Pinewood Studios Group. The Studio has 15 stages various sizes and two back lots. In 2008 the new Gainsborough Building opened (Gainsborough were a London based studio) and workshops and open plan offices for film and TV made available for media companies

Squires Bridge Road
Squires Bridge – this dates from 1903


Studios Road
Runs between the studio walls and the embankment of Queen Mary Reservoir. It leads to housing in streets which once belonged to the area of the studio and which are named for elements here ‘Korda Close’ ‘Lion Close’ and so on


Sources
Brit Movie Co. Web site
Shepperton Studios. Web site
Shepperton Studios. Wikipedia. Web site.
Spelthorne Council. Web site
Stevenson, Middlesex
Studio Tour, Web site

River Ash Littleton

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River Ash
The River Ash flows south eastwards

Post to the west Shepperton Studios
Post to the east Charlton


New Road
This road was built as part of diversions created by the construction of Queen Mary Reservoir
Old School. Springtime Nursery School. This was Littleton Village School provided by the Squire in 1876 and in were in use for education until 1976, and are now used by the community


Rectory Close
The old rectory once stood here and was a building dating from 1699. It was demolished in 1966 to make a site for the new school and a housing development
Littleton Village School. The Church provided the modern building which is now used by the school and children have been in the new building since 1970.


Squires Bridge Road
St.Mary Magdalene. The church has 12th origins but the earliest structure is 13th and 14th. It is built of ragstone, chalk and conglomerate with brick. The 15th choir stalls are said to have come from Winchester. There are three bells by W. Eldridge 1666. The Church is the owner of six medieval paintings of saints, which are on display in the National Gallery. They belonged to a collector called William Young Ottley in the 19th but it is not known how the church came by them. It is thought that the painter was the 14th Florentine artist Jacopo di Cione.


The Green
Much of the Green was lost and is now under the Queen Mary Reservoir


Watersplash Road
The Splash. This where the road crosses the River Ash. A low footbridge makes it possible to ford the river here but not for traffic to cross. The river is only a few inches deep here is a horse and cart could have crossed.


Wood Road
St. John Fisher. Roman Catholic Church. In 1936 an orchard was donated to the church by the Wilson family. A church was built which is now the parish hall. Thomas Henry Birchall Scott was the architect of the original hall.  The new church was built by his son Thomas Scott.


Sources
British History Online. Web site
Littleton School Web site
Middlesex County Council. History of Middlesex
Middlesex Churches, 
Pevsner and Cherry, Surrey
Springtime Nursery. Web site
Stevenson. Middlesex
St John Fisher Church. Web site
St Mary Magdalene. Web site
Walford. Village London

River Ash - Charlton

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River Ash
The River Ash flows south eastwards

Post to the west Littleton


Charlton Lane
Refuse Community Recycling and Transfer Station.  Owned by Surrey County Council. It is planned to replace this with an ‘eco park’ which will have new rubbish disposal plant, anaerobic digester, etc, etc
The site was formerly the location of a Greater London Council household waste incinerator, which ceased operations in the 1960s (Edith does not understand this – the GLC was only set up in 1963.  The incinerator must have been built by a predecessor body but she does not think Middlesex County Council or the London County Council had waste disposal powers).
Sunbury Golf Course. Owned by Crown Golf and opened in 1992

M3

Nutty Lane
Boarding Kennels
Garden Centre


Sources
Spelthorne Council. Web site.
Sunbury Golf Course. Web site
Surrey County Council Web site

River Ash Shepperton

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River Ash
The River Ash flows east and south eastwards

Post to the north Charlton


Fairweather Drive
FerroConcrete. At the rear of the present housing was the works of FerroConcrete (Shepperton) Ltd. The company was wound up in 1962.

Glebelands Road
Once called Backfields Road
Shepperton Recreation Ground. In the 19th this was the area of the Shepperton Ropery.
Scout Hut. 1st Shepperton Scouts

High Street
Library
Village Hall
The Crossroads. This pub has now been demolished. It was once called the Railway Hotel.

Manygate Lane
Span Houses. Villas were built here in the 19th by the Lindsay Estate. The northern end of the road was Villa Road. In 1963 the Lindsay Estate houses were purchased by the Lyon Group and demolished to be replaced by the current modern movement houses in 1964-65 designed by Swiss architect Edward Schoolheifer who had previously worked on airport warehousing.
Thamesmead Secondary Comprehensive School. Opened in 1961

Old Charlton Road
85 The Bell Inn

Station Road.
Shepperton Station. The station was built in 1864. It was originally the terminus of the Thames Valley branch of the South Western Railway and said to be in the middle of a potato field. The original scheme intended that it would extend to a terminus east of Chertsey Bridge but in the Middlesex bank but this plan was abandoned in 1862. The original terminus included cattle sidings and a turntable which was removed in 1942. The station was in yellow brick with round arched windows. The up platform had no footbridge or subway and was hardly used. The line was electrified in 1916 and the station was rebuilt in 1988 including offices for Ian Allen. It had been intended for it to be like its Italianate predecessor and it also had a landscaped forecourt.
Goods yard. Closed
Siding built for building firm and local sand and gravel pit operators, W.J.Lavender in 1931
Terminal House. The Ian Allen HQ which built at the end of the tracks in 1963 and an old Pullman car used as their hospitality suite. This business empire was built originally on train spotting and has grown to encompass publishing, printing, book and model shops, travel, garages, hotels, organics, regalia and property management
Sand and Ballast pit. This was north of the railway in the 1930s with a siding into the railway

Sources
Ian Allen Group. Web site
Jackson. London’s Local Railways
Spelthorne Council. Web site
Walford. Village London
Wikeley. Railway Station Pictures
Shepperton Station. Wikipedia. Web site
Williams. London South Western Railway

River Ash Lower Halliford

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River Ash
The Ash flows eastwards

Post to the west Shepperton
Post to the east Wheatley's Ait

Beasley’s Ait Lane
Sunbury Riding School
Heath Works


Felix Lane
The Ashmere Club – fishery in old gravel extraction site
Shepperton Marina. The marina opened in the 1980s and has three basins, all of them old gravel extraction sites
Swan Sanctuary. Founded by Dorothy Beeson who began swan welfare in her back garden in the early 1980s. She sold her house to set up the first national sanctuary in Egham. It became clear that a larger site was needed with security of tenure and finally found a, a new home in Shepperton on an old gravel extraction site.
Holiday Inn Hotel.


Fordbridge Road
Watersplash Farm, new gravel extraction site planned here. The farm buildings have a huge BAFTA  mask on the wall looking out towards the road. This is the home of a number of theatrical companies.
 
Park Homes site.  Site of ‘holiday homes’ with the Ash running through the site
Longwood Business Park. Commercial and trading area

Gaston Bridge Road
Cuckoo Pound, recreational area


Halliford Road
Halliford Manor. 18th house which is not thought to be anything to do with the actual manor of Halliford. The outside is 19th
Clock House – now known as Halliford Manor House. Large 18th house
Clock Cottage. This is an 18th cottage which was originally the Coach House for Halliford Manor. The clock is dated 1744. The, 17th barns were demolished in the 1950s

Sources
Middlesex County Council. History of Middlesex
Shepperton Marina. Web site
Spelthorne Council. Web site
Swan Sanctuary. Web site
Walford. Village London

River Ash - Wheatley's Ait

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River Ash
Flows eastwards to meet the Thames via a weir at Wheatley’s Ait at the end of a The Creek.

Post to the west Lower Halliford


Fordbridge Road
Sunbury Depot. Environment Agency Riverside Works. This is mainly on Wheatley’s Ait
Conservancy Cottage. Built by Thames Conservancy in the 19th.

Wheatley’s Ait
This was once called Scotland Eyot and is a long island (of which the western upstream part is in this square) is Accessed by a bridge from the mainland. A storm weir separates the downstream section from the upstream residential area and is accessed by footbridge from the road, The Creek, on the northern bank. A controlled weir, Tumbling Bay, in the south marks the start of a shallow creek. The River Ash emerges into this area.
This island contains housing and part of the Environment Agency site. This includes an island site with a dry dock.


Sources
Environment Agency. Web site
LOSRA Web site
Spelthorne Council. Web site

North London Railway - Shoreditch

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – meaning two quarters for the line of the North London Railway for this square. The two eastern quarters can wait for the future)


The Walbrook
The Walbrook rises in this area and flows southwards

North London Railway
The North London Railway emerged from what was Broad Street Station and travelled north

Anning Street
The street was once reportedly called Plum Pudding Row. In the 1980s this was the home of Equinox Computer Systems, in the 1920s of a radio parts importer and manufacturer, and in the 19th by a manufacturer of iron staircases.
14 Jerram Faulkus. Construction contractor dating from 1884, site includes a joinery workshop. Their building here dates from 1976

Bateman’s Row
In the 19th there was a timber yard here supplying to the local furniture trade, and later industrial premises, some servicing the motor trade or dealing in office supplies. In the 21st industrial premises have become design studios and the like, and the road has been the site of a number of prominent and important pieces of graffiti and wall art, including the odd Banksy.
21 site of Gravel & Jones chair frame specialists in the 19th – typical of the trade of this area at that date.
7-10 creative warehouse space.
24 London studio. Theis and Khan Architects home and studio built in 2007. This is a married couple with an architectural practice. In 2000 they bought an industrial building and the first floor was used for their offices. They rebuilt on the site as a mixed-use with commercial space, with four flats.
28 Magneto Works in 1929
1948 ‘Nike’s destination retail space and pop-up store in the railway arches. There is an exterior courtyard, with an illuminated running track, set into a Nike Grind floor, rising up the wall to meet neon typography.,
37 Shoreditch Studios


Blackall Street
Narrow street with lots of expensive looking graffiti some of which seems to be appearing in artistic publications.


Bowl Court
The name of Bowl Court is at least 18th and it became an area of overcrowded housing of the impoverished working classes and the site of a ragged school. Old industrial buildings here in the 21st became an Autonomous Social Centre, but have since been demolished.


Charlotte Road
This is an ex- industrial street with four-storey workshops giving it a canyon-like feel.  Most are now art galleries, artists’ workshops or suppliers of sundries to the arts world.
27-31 workshops probably of the 1890s.
29 workshops from the 1890s
32occupied by Messrs Coals, Lovell & Richards, specialists in over mantles and sideboards in 1895
33 Workshops described as ‘extraordinary’ with the shape of the site determined by the cutting of Great Eastern Street through the area.  It has loading bays and carriage doors and a crane on the top gable. Furniture showroom-warehouses built in 1876 for John King Farlow continued to be used in this way until the 1960s. Edward Rowland & Brothers, bedroom furniture makers, were here in late 19th.  It is now occupied by suppliers to the art galleries which infest the area.
35-39 warehouse and workshops built for Hewlett and Sons, wholesale druggists who were next door
35-47 Merchants Tavern. Warehouse conversion to a restaurant/ bar. Previously a bar called Cantaloupe,
40-42 Hewlett and Sons, wholesale druggists, here in the 1880s.
43 1880s-1930s occupied by Edward Bagshaw, spring manufacturers. They were set up in the 1850s claiming to be the oldest maker of coppered steel springs, webs, tack and nails. From 1935 used as a warehouse
43-49 originally furniture workshops developed in 1877-1881, for John King Farlow who had bought up housing here. They look like one building but behind the facade is a dividing wall, splitting it into seven workshop units with independent front access. There are decorative gables, coloured brickwork and a floral brick band along the row with two surviving cranes.
44 in 1881 leased to Ebenezer Envil, French polisher, who sublet to the furniture trade.  In 1955 this was used by B & N Upholstery along with Mr Billigheimer, a feather dealer. In 1986 it was refurbished by Jeremy Cooper who filled it with 19th art furniture. A plaque marks occupation by art dealer Joshua Compston
45 In 1892 leased by William Lamb, wholesale looking glass and cabinetmaker. Later W. A. Hudson, furnishing ironmongers, installed a rolling mill at the back.
46 in 1870 leased to Pintsche's Patent Lighting Company Ltd,
49 In 1878 leased to Jacob Emil Zoers, manufacturer of umbrella and parasol sticks.

Christina Street
This was previously called Motley Street and site of furniture trade workshops, as well as housing where there were deaths from cholera. Now also the site of much reproduced graffiti/murals
1-5 workshops.
10a Cosmopolitan House. Theatrical agents and others.
A Ragged School was sited here

Clifton Street
Clifton Street was one of the earliest sites to have 5 hour parking meters installed in 1961.
73-81 this was the site of a grocers’ warehouse originally the Home and Colonial tea warehouse built in the 1900s. Now demolished. A remaining wall has now also gone.
96-100 The Gestalt Centre. Training rooms, consultation rooms, offices, library and common area. Gestalt is an existential/ humanistic approach to understanding what it is to be human.


Curtain Place
Parking area off Curtain Road, contains the odd Banksy.


Curtain Road
Recorded as The Curtain Road in 1682 and said to be called from the Elizabethan theatre known, The Curtain here in 1577.  Curtain Road was named after the curtain wall in the Priory. However the field on which the theatre was built was called Curtain Close in 1544. By the late 19th this area was the hub of the furniture trade with small furniture making firms, warehouses, showrooms and suppliers' stores.
The eastern arm of the Walbrook rises in this area and flows parallel with the street
Priory. The south eastern part of Curtain Road was dominated in the middle ages by the Augustinian Priory of St. John the Baptist in Haliwell.  It was said to have been near the Holy Well. The Church was south of New Inn Yard. The institution was founded before 1158, and was said to be the richest Augustinian nunnery in the country. It was inside the area enclosed by Shoreditch High Street, Holywell Lane, Curtain Road and Batemans Row. At the reformation the site was split up but much of it can be traced in the local roads and plots of buildings.
Gas Light and Coke Company. Curtain Road Gas Works. This was on the corner of Worship Street and Hearn Street. This was the Company’s second works of the Gas Light and Coke Company and thus second in the world, was set up in 1812 by Frederick Accum, and finished by Samuel Clegg. It was built to supply gas to the Liberty of Norton Folgate.  It had no water access so coal had to be carted across the City from Westminster. In 1865 the new North London Railway lines passed down the east side of the works and an agreement was entered into with the railway for delivery of coal from Poplar Dock, and  use of GLCC gas in NLR stations. Within six years the gas company closed the works and it is clear that this was to allow for a widening of the lines into Broad Street Station.  A large gasholder stood at the eastern end of the site but there was no apparent sign of this within the at least in the 1980s.  It is always possible however that some walls in Hearn Street remain from the gas works.
Coal Yard. By the late 1870s the gas works site had returned to its previous use as a coal yard. Remains of a coal delivery system from the railway could be seen on the viaduct walls in the 1980s. The site is now laid out with sports pitches.
1-5 The Queen of Hoxton. Bar.
2-6 Papermill Bar
Iron bollard in the form of a cannon on the corner of Hearn Street.
7 Curtain Court. Arcading which seemed once to go back to an area of stables
8 Globe House. Built as offices in the doorway is a sculpted plaque in modernist style which appears to show a man sheltering from the glare of the sun.
12 described as a steam factory in 1879 for church clock maker, Henry Sainsbury.  The firm, founded in 1734, is said to have installed almost a 1000 church and turret clocks. This is now under modern offices
24 possibly the workshop of an early 19th clock maker
28 Horse and Groom 1890s.  This is now a small, pub-style venue on Opened in 2007, as a club and an electronic music destination. Before that it was in fact a pub, and had been since at least the mid 19th
13-19 Cohen wholesale cabinet works plus warehouse and showrooms. Probably built in the 1890s.
21 St James Church.  In 1841 a new parish of "St James, Curtain Road" was created and a church built to the designs of George Vulliamy. In 1937 the parish of Saint James, Shoreditch, was merged with the parish of Saint Michael, Mark Street, Shoreditch, and the church was demolished. It is said to have been built on the site of the Curtain Theatre but other sites have since been identified by archaeologists.
42 Weston House. National Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Children
49-51 built as workshops. There is still signage on the building, partly readable, about past use as a factory.
73-75 workshops purpose built in 1877 for furniture manufacturer Henry Vaughan. The Basement was for packing, the ground, first and second floors were offices and there were speaking tubes throughout. Henry Vaughan’s farther was a small cabinet maker in Hoxton and set Henry up in business. This warehouse was designed for Henry when he was 28 years old.
83-85 Burbage house.   This was the offices of manufacturing chemist Hewlitt, with works in adjacent Charlotte Street. They were here from before the Great War until at least the 1960s
85-87 Curtain Road Warehouse nightclub and bar
86-90 A. Oakden and Sons, Hardware Factors.  Thus was built around 1900 for A Oakden & Sons, hardware factors and became the second biggest supplier of locks and keys in the UK. In the 1980s the firm still supplied the furniture trade with a vast range of handles, hinges and fitting but closed in 2000.  The building is now used by an estate agent and the blue enamel advertising signs around the building seem to have gone,
94 in 1908 J Crispin and Sons took over the building and operated there until 2001.
96 rebuilt in 1851 as a furniture workshop. There was a rear steam works and saw mill built in the 1870s. It was occupied by a succession of tenants. Scale maker, John Barton, rebuilt it in 1912 veneer merchant Crispin bought out Barnett.  In 2003-4 the rear building containing the saw mill was demolished and the Curtain Road buildings were refurbished as offices
98 built as a warehouse in 1883. Now Morel House pub and business centre set up in the early 1990s.
100 London College of Fashion. In 1905 Shoreditch Technical Institute founded a Girls Trade School for the garment trades. This was set up by the London County Council Technical Education Board and aimed to supplement a failing apprenticeship system. Pupils over 12 were trained to work in West End couturier houses and also employed in the ready-to-wear trade. The school worked closely with the trades and had consultative committees. The 1944 Education Act gave Shoreditch technical college status. Management courses were introduced. Shoreditch merged with Clapham Trade School and became Shoreditch College for the Garment Trades in 1955 and began to include men. It was renamed Shoreditch College for the Clothing Industry in 1966, amalgamated with Barrett Street Technical College in 1967 to form the London College for the Garment Trades and is now the London College of Fashion.
104-108 Hoxton Pony. Bar. Dress code and all that.


Dereham Place
The Foundry. Posh flats
Upmarket graffiti under the railway bridge


Fairchild Place
2 Peter the Pleater.  In buildings which seem integral with the railway viaduct and its abutments


Fairchild Street
Chariots Roman Spa. Gay sauna. Also London Pleasure Dome. These buildings are on the site of the National Standard Theatre which fronted onto Shoreditch High Street.


Finsbury Market
Site of an 18th market
Waterlow and Son's large Finsbury Stationery Works was built here in 1874-6. It suffered severe bomb damage during the Second World War and was demolished. The building was five storeys above a basement with a private north south roadway through the centre. I was built of "Beart's perforated bricks" and concrete dressings. It was designed by William Ward Lee, built by Holland & Hannen and was the largest of Waterlow's Shoreditch premises.
An electricity substation was built here in the late 20th and remains an important and developing high tech part of the City’s electrical infrastructure.  Works are ongoing.


French Place
Pedestrian alley in the heart of the design triangle
1 Herrick Gallery
2-10 workshops


Gatesborough Street
Factory buildings on both sides, all at one time used by the furniture trade


Great Eastern Street
This cut through road was opened in 1876 having been built by the Metropolitan Board of Works as extension to City Road linking north London with the Docks.  The angle at which it is built provides some challenging triangular comer sites and it curs some old throughways
Railway Bridge.  Built by the Metropolitan Board of Works for the North London Railway in 1876.  It has now been removed and only the abutments remain.
8 Corinthian House. Flat iron style building of 1880s. It is wedge-shaped with a narrow rounded end in five storeys and lots of decoration. Now offices and flats.
10 A Child of the Jago.  Men’s posh fashion store named after Arthur Morrison’s book on the horrors of the east end slums – sells ‘original terrorist clothing’.
12-34 Trade Indemnity House
15 Penny Bank Chambers. This was constructed in 1878 as shops, flats and premises for the National Penny Bank, to designs of Temple & Forster. It was one of thirteen such built by the company followed the Yorkshire Penny Bank in Halifax as a way helping the working classes to save.   It is has some terra cotta plaques with Penny Bank Motifs. The building was later used as a Post Office and since refurbished in use as an office and flats and there was once a Post and Telegraph Office sign.
17 ex-industrial space used as tented pop up gallery
38 Old Blue Last Pub. This was there before the road – in 1700 when it was called The Last and stood in Curtain Road. It was rebuilt in 1876 by Truman Hanbury and Buxton who renamed it. It is frequently claimed that first delivery of Porter ever made was sold here – (porter was a ‘lads’ drink of the day and the story is partly connected to the rise of big commercial brewers substituting for traditional ales. ‘Entire’ on the pediment means it was a ready mixed beer). Grey brick and stucco pub, has a broad curved end spreading around the comer of Curtain Road. Now owned by Vice Magazine.
40-42 Showroom-warehouses built in 1877 by J. W. Brooker for the cabinet ironmongers Edward Wells & Co. The building is in a prominent location with a ground floor almost entirely glass. It was built as part of a group of four showroom-warehouses. It was initially occupied by an auction house and a specialist clothing manufacturer. Stay merchants, W. Ruddick, here in 42 until the 1930s. 40 was used by Rubery & Stockwell, furniture manufacturers, until 1908. The building was then used by a motor accessories merchant and at the end of the 20th both properties were used by an estate agent,
44-48 Built in 1888 and used by cabinet making companies
54 in the 103s this was a bedroom furniture factory for R.R.Light and then Griffiths Hackney Cabinet Co. in the 1950s. Recently it has been the Great Eastern Dining Rooms
66-70 elaborate five storey building used by the furniture trade
69-71 European House. Business College.
73 CitFin House. This warehouse was built in 1881 possibly designed by, Aston Webb for a firm of electrical engineers but was later used by cabinet makers. Once called Excalibur House this was the Head Quarters of the National Front in the 1980s.  It has also been known as Regina House.  It is now a business and computer technology college.
85 In the 21st this brick building has been turned into creative workspace. The green colours and concept is taken from Hoxton’s history as a meadowland. There is a vertical garden at the back and exposed brick walls in internal spaces where translucent green and yellow glass blades pierce the building elevation.  There is also a timber clad rooftop pavilion
87 Built around 1888 this was an office and warehouse used by an upholsterer’s spring maker. In brick with stone dressings. There is a left a Gothic doorway with a pointed arch and columns on the top gable.  Recently used by a fashion designers and as a coffee shop


Hearn Street
This was once called Cumberland Street
7-11 Hearn Street Car Park.  This is now a night club
13 Factory 7. Cinema and night club
Electricity sub-station built in the 1920s. Due for demolition
Wagon hoist alongside the railway in the coal yard.
Providence Baptist Church. This stood on the south side.


Hewitt Street
10-14 buildings of Kimpton Brothers, international honey specialists, and other related substances
18 Concept Space in old industrial building, with Protein Cafe, etc. 
Plaque to the Site of the Curtain Theatre. The Curtain was the second theatre to be built in London, in 1577. From 1585 to1592, James Burbage shared in the management. The building survived orders by the Privy Council in 1597 and 1600 and there are references to it in 1603 and in 160 the last reference being in 1628. In 2012 the Museum of London Archaeology unit announced that they had found remains of the theatre. It is hoped to develop the site with a tower block of flats plus a Shakespeare museum,
Rockwell House. A once squatted 1960’s factory taken over by a group of artists, working with local graffiti artists, and others and offering studio and event space.


Holywell Lane
1 was the Work Hands Entrance for the outfitters in the High Street.
54 Village Underground. This was developed as an affordable, environmentally stable studio space for artists and the Broad Street Rail Viaduct stole their hearts. It had been derelict for over 20 years and was self seeded with trees and wildlife. The background to a cultural centre - a railway coal store, a music hall, and an 18th theatre. The End of the Line. Above the wall two 1983 Jubilee Line trains hoisted to the rooftops and used as office space.
55 The Mission. There is a date stone with the text "G.T 1893.
New rail bridge built 2008 for the East London Line Extension.


Holywell Row.
10-27 19th domestic scale buildings in a 19th terrace but used commercially largely by the furniture trade
13-14 workshops used in the furniture trade built in the early 18th.
20 rebuilt in 1900 for S. Goss with workshop-type windows. It was used by motor accessory manufacturers in the early 20th but later by cabinet makers.
28 Old Kings Head. Pub


King John Court
1 Sovereign House. Vast intimidating telecommunications building.


Leonard Street
55-85 this is a long row of 19th workshops, some with wall cranes and loading doors.
73 Blackall Studios
81 Base Camp Accelerator and gallery
96-106 row of workshops
96-98 International Network Gallery
100 Book Club. Bar


Luke Street
Victoria Chambers.  Philanthropic Housing block, five storeys around a courtyard, originally with open stairwells which have since been refurbished.  
4 Head Office of Workers Educational Association
6-8 1995 newcomer. Clad in reused bricks, with angled recessed entrance
7-13 small makers homes, bought out by Oakden's for storage
25 Worshipful Company of Gardeners. The Company of Gardeners was first mentioned in 1345. In 1605, after existing for centuries as a fellowship, the Guild was incorporated by Royal Charter. Today, the Company ranks number 66 in the order of precedence of Livery Companies
74-78 workshops built for Waxler cabinet maker


Mark Square
1 Derwent House. Let to Reuters


Mark Street
Site of Langbourne Buildings. These were philanthropic housing built at the instigation of Sydney Waterlow, printing magnate, in 1963. They were designed by Matthew Allen and demolished in 1963.
St.Michael’s church. Built in 1863 and Closed in 1964. It is now used as an architectural salvage warehouse. It was designed by James Brooks, his first church in this area. In brick with bands of red brick. A tower was planned but not built. It was built at the instigation of the Haggerston Church Scheme, begun by the vicar of Shoreditch with the support of, among others, Robert Brett of Newington Green.
Westland. The church is now used by an architectural salvage company, and houses an extraordinary collection of artefacts. The company was founded in 1969 and specialised in sourcing 18th and 19th furniture and decorative elements in England and shipping and selling to Europe with premises in Frankfurt am Main. In 1977 they moved to St Michael's and concentrated on shipping antiques worldwide  The church settings became dramatic scenarios where antiques.
Clergy House. This is the only remains of what was intended as a picturesque group of church buildings. It dates from 1870, by James Brook, and now used as offices.
Hospital of St. Mary at the Cross.  This Anglican Benedictine Community of Sisters of the Poor was founded here in 1866. The building was begun by Brooks, and completed by the young J. D. Sedding.  The Convent closed in 1931, and moved to Edgware where a convent had also been designed by Brooks in 1873. Furnishings from here were moved to Edgware.
Mark Street Garden. This is laid out alongside the church and built over part of the cloister.  It consists of small spaces with winding earth paths to areas of lawn, shrubberies and flower beds with aromatic plants, a pergola, with a stone monument. An obelisk with seating is a memorial to Sidney Smith


Mills Court
Painted sign for W.A.Hudson who has building adjacent
Site of a gents urinal from 1900. Thus was  boarded up by 1985


New Inn Broadway
4-6 Possible site of The Theatre – the first theatre built by James Burbage here in 1576 and where Shakespeare is said to have appeared. The site is also associated with the Great Barn from the Priory and it is thought remains have been found here of both.


New Inn Yard
Generally an area of more pop-up clubs and more and more expensive graffiti.
7-13 down the side of Oakden’s building in Curtain Road were built small makers' homes. In 1881, the inhabitants included bedstead and bedding makers, an upholsterer and a furniture packer. Earlier this century, Oakden's bought them out to use the premises as a factory.
17-25 Amnesty International. The building was originally a furniture factory. Amnesty have converted and extended it using Witherford Watson Mann Architects
29 Regal Pop Up Club
36-42 Digital Archaeology
Posts at either side of entrance to King John's Court. Early-mid 19th cast iron gun posts, the western one with maker's mark: "Baileys of Bankside."
Railway viaduct - Signal box on the west side set at an angle for good visibility. It was called New Inn Yard Box and was a sixty lever box primarily controlling traffic going to Broad Street Goods. These connections were abolished when that yard closed in 1969, and the box closed in 1970.
Railway– a new five span 130 m long Holywell viaduct built 2008 for the East London Line Extension and the point at which it joins the North London Line viaduct. It is supported on the remaining abutment of the New Inn Yard over bridge.


New Inn Street
Part of the boundary area of the Priory


New North Place
More posh graffiti


Paul Street
Post at north corner of Scrutton Street. 19th cast gun post with maker's name, "BAILEY AND PEGG, 81 BANKSIDE" on it
28 The Fox. This was a Watneys house. Now claims to be a gastro pub and to have kept original features. Nice brown tiled outside
32 Zetland House. Signal Gallery
69-77 Telephone House. BT Training Centre and other telephone providers and associated activities
Hitchcock’s Reel on the roundabout outside Telephone House. Film reel sculpture by John Edwards 1996
76 artwork of two men climbing the side of Development House (which fronts in Leonard Street) and a garden area below
64 Victoria House. Warehouse converted to offices and flats
The Princess. 18th pub now refurbished
72-74 Light industrial block from the 1890s


Phipp Street
Factory buildings survive on both sides. Some of these very dark buildings may have been used for storing furniture awaiting sale.
1 Holywell Centre. Education classes etc. Office space to rent.
1-13 this was a row of furniture and associated trades workshops. Demolished in the 1980s.
18 workshops.
23-19 workshops built in the 1880s.
26 workshops built in the 1890s.
28 – workshops built in the 1880s for Mason and Betts Paper Merchants who left there in 1980. Surviving wall crane and some signage.


Plough Yard
More graffiti
Railway arch – a single arch from the Broad Street viaduct remains crossing the road


Railway Line
The viaduct from Broad Street to Dalston has 170 brick arches. It was proposed in 1861 to link the City to Dalston and the existing line from Bow to Camden as the North London City Extension.  The two mile line came into operation in 1865 from what became Broad Street station.  It closed in 1985. Since then much of the viaduct has been demolished along with Broad Street Station, however a new line coming from the old Bishopsgate Depot to the east has crossed Shoreditch High Street to join the Broad Street viaduct at New Inn Yard.


Ravey Street
1-3 workshops for the furniture trade


Scrutton Street
2-20 this building is also in Paul and Clifton Streets. It was built in 1904 and used by print and allied trades. It is decorated with art nouveau features.
49-55 four workshops built in the 1870s.
3-25 This was the stationary works of Waterlow printers and also fronts into Clifton Street. It was built in the early 1900s and there is a large central chimney. 
35 The Waterman’s Club. Pub
Holywell Mount itself is shown on maps up until the 18th when it was cleared. It could have been a rubbish dump, or a plague pit or a Civil War defence structure. It was cleared as it has become a focus of local criminal behavior.
Holywell Mount burial ground. The site of the old burial ground connected to St.James Church in Curtain Road is the open yard area accessed from 38 Scrutton Street; it may have extended under nearby buildings. There was also a school and parish hall on the site. The yard is now a car park


Shoreditch High Street,
Ermine Street – Shoreditch High Street is on the route of Roman Ermine Street from London to Lincoln. It runs here from the boundary of the Liberty of Norton Folgate and the City of London to the Kingsland Road. . There were Civil War fortifications either end.It was considerably widened on the east side in 1877 and damaged in the air raids of 1940. In the 19th it became the centre of the wholesale furniture trade
Railway – a new five span 130 m long Holywell viaduct built 2008 for the East London Line Extension is supported on the remaining abutments of the Shoreditch High Street over bridge.  From there the new Bishopsgate Viaduct runs east.
3-8 Nicholls and Clarke, glass, lead and colour merchants. Parts built at different times 7-9 built in 1887 and 3-5 built in 1937, replacing earlier structures. The front is in an Art Deco style clad in cream faience tiles with a central gable with clock on the re-fronted 1897 building. There are plate glass windows at the ground floor, linked by a continuous 20th frontage
32 site of Unicorn pub. There was a Unicorn Brew house here by 1803 and the present building was on site by 1864.  It was a Truman’s house and remained in business until 1944.  Today it is a shop.
Bishopsgate Station site. Bishopsgate station became Bishopsgate Goods Yard. It was a passenger station 1840-75 and then as a freight terminal until it was destroyed by fire in 1964. Substantial remains lay derelict to the east of this quarter square but were demolished in 2003-04 for a new Shoreditch High Street station which now stands on the site. Some parts of the old station remain in the High Street the ornamental gates and part of the former viaduct
New Bridge– a new bridge across the street carries the East London Line over on to the old North London Railway viaduct at New Inn Yard.
56-64 Lipton’s buildings. This is a large island block with a number of warehouses developed in three phases in the 20th on the site of earlier warehouses and yards between 1880 and 1899. The first phase was in Bethnal Green Road and was completed in 1931 with the redevelopment of the Shoreditch High Street block.This third phase of development was the construction of a large bacon factory for Lipton's Ltd who  By 1933 Lipton's were part of Allied Supplies Ltd; An air-raid shelter was built in 1939. In the late 20th century the building was used by Securicor Ltd as storage. From the late 1930s the whole block was owned by Allied Supplies and used for processing and packaging of tea. It was refurbished as offices in 2002 for Derwent Valley developers.
64 White Horse pub. This has recently been a gentleman’s club
74 Shoreditch Telephone Exchange
92 Bull and Pump. Site of a pub used by Isaac Newton which was a stop for cattle drovers on their way to Smithfield and was near the Shoreditch Pump.  It was later a sports bar and now demolished.
95-99 This was originally the Griffin Music Hall & Public House, which opened in 1856. In 1894 it was demolished and the London Theatre of Varieties was built, designed by Frank Matcham and in 1896 it was re-named London Music Hall. In 1924 it was re-named Shoreditch Empire Theatre. In 1934 it was bought by Jeremiah Rotherham & Co. who closed and demolished it
100 Ace Hotel, previously the Crown Plaza, previously the St.Gregory Hotel. Opened in 2004 and claiming to be modern and sophisticated.
103 Jane Shore Pub. This pub was there by 1834 and remained until the Second World War.  It was later a shop and demolished in 2009.
110 This is a domestic two-bay shop.  Now called Time for Tea it is not a café but says it is a history museum available as an event and location space. The clock above the door has no hands.
112 Former London and South Western Bank 1900. Probably designed by E. Gabriel in Portland stone. This building along with 110 and 111 were used from 1927 by A. Norman and Sons Ltd, footwear wholesalers and manufacturers, which had begun in the Kingsland Road as Norman and Sons Boot and Shoe Factors. From here they supplied footwear to retailers all over the country and had manufacturing outlets elsewhere. In 1972 they were taken over by Spencer Rotherham Ltd
145 The Shoreditch Pub and nightclub
181-182 Former London and County Bank. Became NatWest built in 1868.
186 Hackney House. Pop up space promoted by London Borough of Hackney to promote various local events, initiatives etc.
187-190 18th terraced houses with
192-193 An impressive corner building, built as showrooms, storerooms and workshops for Abraham Lazarus, tailor and gentlemen’s outfitter, in 1889. It was designed by architect Drury and Lovejoy and constructed by Patman & Fotheringham. Corner topped by a decorative clock tower. The ground and first floor are faced with large plate-glass windows, replaced in the inter-war years.Was refurbished in c.1980, when a photographic studio was inserted into the ground floor and the upper floors converted into residential and office use.
196 At one time this was The White Swan Hotel Said to be 1693 because of a date on a lead cistern at the pub. This pub was there in 1802, and survived as a pub until at least until 1922 when it as owned by Hoare & Co’s. Closed because of East London Railway works adjacent.
199 The Norfolk Village Pub was demolished in 2004 as part of the works for the new line from Bishopsgate
201-296 Majestic Wine Warehouse.  Originally on this site from 1838 was the Royal Standard Public House and Pleasure Gardens. The Royal Standard Theatre was then built on the site and burnt down on 1866. It then became the New Standard Theatre later re-named Standard Theatre, then National Standard Theatre. It was rebuilt and then rebuilt for a third time by Bertie Crewe.  It opened as the Olympia Theatre built for and was operated by Andrew Melville as a variety theatre with Films screened as part of the programme. In 1926, it became a full time cinema, the New Olympia Picturedrome and taken over by Associated British Cinemas in 1930. It closed in 1939, with plans to build a new Art Deco super cinema on the site. Demolition began but was halted due to the Second World War and was subsequently bombed in 1940. The shell of the building remained until the late-1950, when it was cleared. It is now a Majestic Wine Warehouse with various activities in the area to the rear – an arts complex and a gay sauna.
221-222 Drunken Monkey. Dim Sum restaurant and bar.
226 Crown and Shuttle. The name recalls the local weaving industry. Built in 1816 it was recently closed and reopened
227 this is recorded as being there in 1703 it is thought it may be older.
232 The Duke of Wellington pub was here 1851- 1912.  It is now a gents hairdressers.
233 The Light Bar. This was the Great Eastern Railway's Electric Light Generating Station and the only remaining power station of its type in London. It housed one Colonel REB Crompton's electrical engines. It played a pioneering role in the development of electric power, and from 1900 the borough of Shoreditch used it as inspiration for its motto 'more light, more power'.

Worship Street
Was called Hog Lane. The name is said to be a corruption of Worsop
28-30 The frontage is 1980 by Hulme Chadwick & Partners with a curved metal-clad stair-tower and bowstring-braced glazing.
Clifton House. This was built for printers, Williams Lea & Co. in 1900
60 a block from the 1920s which was remodelled in 1959 for Mining Journal by Tripe & Wakeham
91-101 series of frontages by Philip Webb for philanthropist Col. Gillum in 1862.  This is a domestic terrace with ground-floor shops and industrial basements restored to their original design in the 1990s.  The designs include a Drinking fountain under a Gothic canopy.
Girder bridge carrying the street over the Liverpool Street
 
Sources
Barton. The Lost Rivers of London
Blue Plaque Guide, English Heritage
British History Online. Shoreditch
Cinema Treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide,
Clarke, Glimpses of Ancient Hackney and Stoke Newington
Clunn. London Marches On.
Clunn. The Face of London
Early London Gas Industry. Web site
English Heritage. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Geffrye Museum. Workshops and Warehouses.
GLIAS Newsletter
Greater London Council.  Home Sweet Home
Hackney Society. South Shoreditch.
Hackney Society. Web site
Industrial Archaeology,
Jerram Falkus. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia,
London Gardens Online. Web site
London’s Industrial Archaeology
London Railway Record
Martin.  London Industry in the Nineteenth Century
Miele. Hoxton
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line
Museum of London. The Peopling of London
Nairn, Modern Buildings in London
National Archives, Web site
Pastscape. Web site
Robbins. The North London Railway,
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Rockwells. Web site
Shoreditch Music Halls. Web site
Signalbox. Web site
TBAOG, A Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London
Trench & Hillman. London Under London.
Village Underground. Web site
Wilson, London’s Industrial Archaeology

North London Railway - Hoxton

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – meaning two quarters for the line of the North London Railway for this square. The two eastern quarters can wait for the future)


North London Railway
The railway line continues northwards turning north eastwards

River Walbrook
Springs contributing to the Walbrook may, or may not, rise in this area and flow south.

Post to the south Shoreditch
Post to the east Bethnal Green Boundary Estate


Basing Place
Basing Square - Berman’s Almshouses. These were built here in 1813 and resulted from funds left by Nonconformist Minister William Berman in 1700 and were for eight poor women. They were destroyed by Second World War bombing and rebuilt in Brentwood, Essex
Mission. In the 19th there was a Mission Hall here and a Wesleyan Sunday School. This also seems to have operated as an independent private school also described as a Ragged School.

Basing House Yard
This is presumably named as the yard of the adjacent pub.
Shoreditch Ambulance Station

Bath Place
This is now a gated passage under a building whereas it was once a through road between Old Street and Rivington Street.

Bowling Green Walk
8 Griffinmanufacturer of dressing cases, etc 1875
City Iron Works. From 1852 this was the works of the Cornish Lawrence Brothers who held patents in lock gates and sluices

Calvert Avenue
Syd's Coffee stall. It was started by Sydney Edward Tothill in 1919 with his invalidity pension from the Great War, and has been in the same position and run by the family ever since. The business is now Hillary ‘Caterers, commemorating Sir Edmund Hillary.

Charlotte Road
43 Kemistery Gallery
63 Bricklayers Arms. Said to have once been a Mecca for local artists.

Chapel Place
This is now 318 Old Street.
The New Tabernacle Congregational Chapel is now offices and said to have a spring beneath. The New Tabernacle, was founded in 1832. It was called the 'new' Tabernacle church to distinguish it from the Methodist Tabernacle at Moorfields. It was closed in 1950.

Coronet Street
The Circus Space This was the Shoreditch Vestry Combined Generating station and Dust destructor providing electricity for the surrounding area and using the Waste heat for the public baths.  Built 1895-7 as the first such works set up to fulfil both functions. The consultant engineer was E. Manville and it was opened by Lord Kelvin. The facade is in Fletton brick and terracotta with the motto E PULVERE LUX ET VIS - Out of the dust, light and power. It was sympathetically converted to a circus training school by Philip Lancashire in 1994, with a gymnasium in the old generating hall, and a training space in the former Combustion House.
35 Bass Clef night club which closed in 1994. This was a warehouse and works for a metal merchant in the 1890s with iron cranes on the outside of the building.
39 Sh – feminist sex shop
45 Standpoint Gallery

Cottons Gardens
A narrow cobbled cul-de-sac which at one time went out into Hackney Road.
1-15 3-storey warehouse buildings are finely in red brick. There are remaining roof-mounted pulleys. These buildings were owned by John Carter and Sons Ltd and were built as Leather and Boot works by RC Hitch
6-10 4-storey warehouse building converted into flats. In 1921 a cabinetmaker and tin box maker were here and in 1944 6 was occupied by an upholsterer and. 8-10 by a glass works. Built in red brick there are still three columns of wooden loading doors with a pulley above each set.

Crooked Billet Yard
There were 17th cottages here in the 1930s
4 Shoreditch Prototype House.  Low energy house on a brownfield site. Glazed and planted façade.  Designed by the architects Cox Bulleid, this is a 3-bedroom live/work house with studio entered via a gated south-facing courtyard garden which has fragrant climbing plants on all sides.

Curtain Road
120-124 Strongroom. Recording Studio and Bar. This was a site for James Latham who began importing hardwoods into Liverpool in 1759. The firm used a site in Clapton site from 1912 but have since move to Hemel Hempstead. This site would have been to fulfill the timber needs of the local furniture trades. Strongroom started when Richard Boote opened it as a single studio in 1984. Their first album was John Cale’s ‘Artificial Intelligence’, released in 1985, followed by Nico’s ‘Camera Obscura’. Classic albums from the Housemartins and Nick Cave followed. Richard opened a second studio dedicated to emerging MIDI technology, and featured an Atari 520ST and an early Apple Mac.
127 Barley Mow Pub
134-146 Built 1880s and for C & R Light. Five-storey warehouse for storing furniture much of which was bought in from local makers. Light's sold to West End retail stores, like Maples for whom they produced catalogues. Buyers would come here and the grand facade was built to impress them.
135-139 this was the warehouse for Saul Moss & Sons, cabinet makers, and later for Beresford & Hicks.
148-150 warehouse, crane,

Drysdale Street
Previously called Edward Street
26 Formerly this was The Weavers Arms Public House.  It is in yellow stock brick. Facing Drysdale Place a recessed blind arch which once was a doorway. The wooden shop front is still there with a corner entrance with double-doors, that went into the bar

Fanshawe Street
This was once called Aske Street and a large block of flats is Aske House.
1-7 Academy Buildings. Three storey warehouses, built in the 1890s. On the front are bays containing wooden loading doors. They are now flats. The 'Academy ' refers to Hoxton Dissenting Academy which was in Hoxton Square in the 19th
Enfield Cloisters. This is a Victorian Mansion Block It was originally built around 1900 as a tenement but has since been done up
46 Lion and the Lamb. This 1950s pub is now an art gallery.

Great Eastern Street
Granite column which marks the junction with Old Street. It is inscribed ‘Great Eastern Street opened by The Metropolitan Board of Works, 187’ and ‘Neither is he that planteth any thing neither he that watereth, but God that giveth the increase’ and ‘This column erected by the vestry of St. Leonard, Shoreditch, 1880’ and  ‘The vestry of St. Leonard Shoreditch, constituted, 1855’.  Another metal plate says that it was resited in 2002. It was designed by A. Nicholson, was a local stone merchant from Lane.


Hackney Road
1 Browns strip club. This was called Horns but changed its name in the early 1980s

Hoxton Market
The actual street market is not held here but in Hoxton Street. The square and its name results from a 17th project to promote a market here.
3 Alexander Fleming Halls. Plain yellow brick student lodgings, rebuilt 1997-8
5 The Juggler Cafe
13-14 Shaftsbury House
. This was previously a Christian Mission building. On a tall rear facade of 1913 added to an earlier building; well-detailed Neo-Georgian, the windows freely grouped.  On it a plaque which says” Lewis "Daddy" Burtt, 1860 - 1935, John Burtt, 1855 - 1925, Honorary Secretary & Superintendent, Founders of Hoxton Market Christian Mission, founded in 1886. Operating from these premises from 1915, for the benefit of local people”. This was a Greek restaurant now a meat eaters restaurant
Sculpture of a juggling figure. By Simon Stringer, 1994.  To recall the music hall traditions of the area


Hoxton Square
Laid out after 1683. The square was relandscaped in 1995 and some buildings are set back behind what were once front gardens. 
Hoxton Square Academy. This settled in Hoxton in 1762.  It was started with support from the Congregational Fund Board. Its first tutor was an American Isaac Chauncey. It closed in 1785. A dissenting academy was also here in 1834 which became the first Wesleyan 'theological college'.
1 James Parkinson. Doctor and author of An Essay on the Shaking Palsy, was in practice here and there is a plaque on the site. It is now a restaurant and bar.
2-4 Lux Centre. New Burrell Foley Fischer cinema opened in 1997 a fit-out in a shell by another architect and for cutting edge, art-house films. .The interior space was designed specifically for the London Filmmakers' Co-operative. Programming was a mix of experimental and independent films. It opened in autumn 1997 and closed in 2001. It is now offices and a restaurant,
6-7 former furniture workshops built in the 1800s
8-9 former furniture workshops workshop windows. By the mid 19th the residential building of the square had been replaced by furniture workshops. Dated 1897, windows extending full width between the party walls.
10 Gothic with angular oriel, was built as a vicarage in the 1870s, probably by Drew the architect of St Peter's, which stood at the corner
Saint Peter's Church. It was established in 1869 designed by R.Drew. It was united with Saint Leonard, Shoreditch, in 1937 and the church was demolished. The site is now new buildings used as offices and a pub
St Monica’s Catholic Primary School. Built in 1870, plain Gothic. It became the Hoxton Apprentice.
16 Hoxton Apprentice. This was a charity set up to train young people as restaurant workers. It has since closed.
19 St.Monica’s Roman Catholic Church. Bui1t in 1864 and designed by Pugin. The parish was founded as a mission of the Irish Augustinians to the East End and the church was the first permanent foundation of the Augustinian friars in England since the Reformation. A gilded wooden altar with reredos was installed in 1875: consecrated by Cardinal Manning and in 1880 a Lady Chapel was created. In the front of the chapel's altar was a copy of the image preserved at the Basilica of Our Lady of Good Counsel, Genazzano. Sadly, the statues of Ss Monica and Augustine have disappeared but decorative inscriptions from Pugin’s original design have been uncovered.  Four stained glass windows by M.E. Aldrich Rope from 1924.
St. Monica’s Roman Catholic Primary School. Newer build school on a different site.
28-30 Pongees. Originally Swiss this silk merchants moved to Old Street in 1931 and to this site in 1995
32 An impression of the square’s original character can be gained from this house – the red brick front is a re-creation of a 17th house
33-34 Lincoln House. Offices and exhibition space.
36 The Rectory. This is the house for the vicar of St.Leonard, Shoreditch
37 Red Dog Saloon
39a  Shoreditch Electricity Showrooms.
Art gallery and bar. The Showrooms were opened by Shoreditch Borough Council in 1929 and sold and demonstrated all sorts of electrical items here. Local residents could sign up here for the council’s “Rental Wiring Scheme” which was launched in 1926.
48 White Cube art gallery, known for representing a number of the movement of young British artists in old industrial buildings.  Closed 2012
56 18th with later bowed shop front. In the lane
Gardens. The central garden belonged to the Hoxton Square Trustees, who leased it to Shoreditch Borough Council for £12 a year. In 1901 a granite drinking fountain was put up here by the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association, given by J. Passmore-Edwards. The layout has changed very little – there are two grassed areas surrounded by paths, shrubs and mature trees. There are plane trees and seats beside the drinking fountain, and a small pavilion. The garden is maintained by the Hoxton Trust, founded in 1982 as a charity

Hoxton Street
12-18 Hoxton Street studios
41 Red Lion –pub with a roof top bar and convictions for ecstasy in the food.
46 Open Kitchen. Training kitchen run by London City Hospitality Centre
46-48 site of Castlefrank House. Workers flats erected before the Second World War
Jewish cemetery a quarter-acre ground used between 1707 & 1878 by the Hambro Synagogue of Fenchurch Street. It was officially open until 1878, although it had not been used for many years before that. The lease on the ground expired in the mid-1960s, and human remains were transferred, to West Ham Cemetery.
70 Macbeth. Brick and stucco public house painted blue. In the pediment is ‘Hoxton Distillery’ - when it was first built it was a gin distillery, using water from an underground spring.  Inside are huge tiled pictures with scenes from the play.


Kingsland Road
The Old Shoreditch Station Bar. Coffee shop and bar in the old station buildings. There is an exhibition space and pop up events.
Shoreditch Station. This was opened in 1865 Built by the North London Railway at the Junction of Old Street and Kingsland Road in their usual style. There were only three platforms, and there was nothing to serve the west side fourth line.  In 1928 the street level building was rebuilt. On 3rd October 1940 the station was bombed and closed, but the booking office remained open for another year for replacement bus services.  In the 1970s the street level building was demolished but investigators found that the inside appeared intact, even down to its ticket window. At the southern end of the station there were iron balustrades, which originated from the island platform stairway. The platforms have now been demolished for the East London Line Extension.
Signal Box. There were also traces of a brick structure on the platform in the 1960s , thought to have been the remains of the original No.1 Box here and which had been moved northwards in the 1870s.  No.2 Box. was added later opposite to it.
Railway Viaduct: in some places on the west side there are railings instead of the usual brick parapet. These are thought to have been to allow more light into adjoining buildings, when the line was widened in the 1870s
1-3 Spread Eagle Pub. A pub of this name has been on this site since at least the early 17th. It was rebuilt in the early 20th and in recent years has also been called the Penny Farthing, and been a strip club
7 Four Vintners off-licence with mushroom sculpture by Christian Nagel
19-23 The building has signage on it about ownership by a shoe factors established inn 1860. There were a number of shoe factors operating in this area in the late 19th – it is possible that this was firm called Doughty.
25-27 Basing House. Pub and nightclub.  This was previously called The Castle, and before that The Old Basing House. A pub of that name seems to have been here since at least the 18th.
41-49 stained glass studios of Goddard & Gibbs. These buildings were constructed for glass merchants supplying the furniture trade with mirrors and glass for cupboard decoration. The premises were built in the 1880s for The Eaton & Co, plate glass merchants.
48 Bells of Shoreditch. Night club names after the ‘Oranges and Lemons’ rhyme.
53 19th commercial building with the word 'GLASS' etched above the first-floor central window and the street number on the bay. This is another address for Goddard and Gibbs
74 The Printspace. This claims to have been Europe’s first walk-in DIY professional photographic printing lab which opened in 2007
Hackney Community College– parts of the campus centred on Falkirk Street. Student accommodation in Kingsland Road is built round what was Mail Coach Yard.
4 Ladbrokes. The building has a plaque ‘girls’ school rebuilt 1802’. This was the St.Leonard’s parish school. The parish charity school had opened in 1705 in Pitfield Street, funded by subscriptions from the liberties, and was for fifty boys to be trained for apprenticeships. It school later moved to a house at the end of Kingsland Road.  The girls' school opened in 1709 with the aim of preparing them for domestic service. In 1799 Kingsland Road was widened and a new school built and remained until 1889. 
Perseverance Works. Cluster of 19th industrial buildings containing a range of small business. Said to be an old match factory.

New North Road
Drinking fountain on the pavement outside St. John’s Gardens. There is a drinking fountain presented by the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association set in the railings, which are shaped around it to allow access from both street and gardens.

Old Street
This was widened in 1872-7, but a few battered buildings of 18th and early 19th Remained
275 Holiday Inn Hotel.
325-329 This was Parry & Sons (Tools), Ltd., in 18th, domestic buildings. It had the Royal Warrant displayed on the first floor front and a mosaic floor inside with Parry’s sundial. It is now the Central London Sports Injury Clinic. With a giant model spine going up the front of the building and hiding the drainpipe.
333 London Apprentice. This pub is recorded from 1756, and rebuilt around 1895.  It was a well known as a landmark in the 18th and 19th and there are a number of stories, some of which may be true, about its associations with the resurrectionist trade and criminal low life generally. In the 19th it was known as somewhere where furniture trade cheques could be cashed weekly. Since the 1990s it has operated as a nightclub than a pub Having been a focal point of the Shoreditch gay scene of the 1980s, and building which held the first ever Terence Higgins Trust meeting. It has had a number of changes of name through these years and on some web sites is thought not to operate as a pub at all.
336 The Reliance Pub
380 Theatre Centre. This is the headquarters of a professional theatre company touring to children and young people. It was founded in 1953 to make theatre for high quality theatre for young audiences
Fuller’s Almshouse.  These were established under the will of John Fuller, a judge whose left money in 1592 for two almshouses, one for twelve women, in Shoreditch.  His widow bought a site on the south side of Old Street and built the almshouses before 1605. This administered by Shoreditch Parish, was rebuilt in 1787 and moved to in Wood Green in 1865. The site was used for the new Town Hall.
Shoreditch Town Hall. Built in 1866 on the site of Fuller’s Hospital as Shoreditch Vestry Hall. It is said to be an ‘evocative survival from the era of the reformed vestries’. The original vestry hall was built in 1866-7 to the east designed by Caesar A. Long; the vestry surveyor; with big vestry room at the back and a first-floor public hall for 1,200 people. In 1893 Charles Barry added offices to the west and in 1901 William G. Hunt added committee rooms for the new Metropolitan Borough of Shoreditch. A tower was added, a broken pediment and sculptures of the municipal achievements of Shoreditch - reclining figures of Light and Power and Progress. Inside an imperial stair leads to the first-floor public hall, an original feature rebuilt with a new roof in 1904 by A. G. Cross. In 1937-8 a brick built rear wing was added by the borough architect C. T. Fulcher. After the creation of the London Borough of Hackney in 1965 it was used by the Borough Heath Department and the council chamber used as a hall. It is now used as an entertainment and event venue including the ‘real gem’ the ‘untouched and distressed’ basement.
Weavers Company Almshouses stood at the junction with Kingsland road. They were funded by a William Watson for twelve widows of weavers and retired weavers and built on land leased from the parish for 200 years in 1669 rebuilt in 1826. In 1859 they were rebuilt in Wanstead together with other charitable provision by the Weavers.
Badger Almshouses, adjoined the Weavers Almshouses at the south east end of Hoxton Street. They had been founded under the terms of Allen Badger's will in 1674/5 and erected in 1698. Although intended for men they appear to have been solely used by women. Towards the end of the 19th the buildings were condemned but The Charity Commissioners, advised the Trustees to discontinue the almshouses altogether
The Refuge for the Destitute . This stood behind the Weavers and Badgers almshouses and had been founded by Rev. Edward Whitaker originally in Lambeth. The Male Refuge at Hoxton opened some time before 1819.  It was intended for the relief of destitute young people released from prison. It closed in 1849 when the government’s grant was drastically reduced.
Walters' and Porter’s Almshouses.  These were on the site of the Magistrates Court and to the east of the Weavers and Badgers. The Drapers ‘Company managed these which had been founded in 1656 under the terms of the wills of John Walter and his widow, Alice.  They were for eight almspeople, appointed through public election by the Drapers Company and Shoreditch parish. They were extended and rebuilt through the gift of Thomas Porter in 1826. Demolished 1902
Police Court and Magistrates Court built on the sites of a number of almshouses by J. D. Butler. In 1906 it had accommodation for 37 constables 1906. It is in brick above a granite base with a stone front. There is a court on both ground and first floors, approached from a central waiting area.  It closed in 1996 and was empty until part of the Occupy London movement moved-in in 2011 and it is now being reconfigured as a boutique hotel.
Rail bridge. Part of the Kingsland viaduct built as the main part of the North London City Extension of 1861. The viaduct closed in 1986 until proposals in 1993 to extend the East London Line from Shoreditch to Dalston. This opened in 2010 and the viaduct has been refurbished

Pitfield Street
This is named after Charles Pitfield, who owned a mansion in the area in the 17th. It was also once called St.John’s Street. The street still has some 19th granite setts and many buildings were joinery workshops.
8 Beershop. This was an off-licence with a large range of British bottled beers, and a selection of Belgian and German beers. The Pitfield Brewery' next door was founded in 1982 and started selling beer from the real ale revival. A five barrel brewery was installed and the first brew produced was 'Pitfield Bitter'. In 1985 another beer produced was Dark Star which in 1987 won the title of ‘Best New Beer’ came runner up in ‘The Champion Beer of Britain’ And in 1988 was awarded ’The Supreme Champion Beer of Britain.’ In 2006 the brewery closed and moved to Essex. The shop is now a Cypriot supermarket.
17-21 Early 19th front to an older building behind. 19th and 20th shop fronts.
32 The Hop Pole. 19th pub. It is has a ground floor is faced with dark green faience, ands cream tiles with raised green lettering with the pub name also saying 'TRUMAN'S ALES' and 'TRUMAN'S ALES & STOUT'. And 'TRUMAN HANBURY BUXTON & CO LTD’. The pub closed in 1985. And in 2005 was converted to flats.
45 Charlie Wright’s International Bar. This was the Queen’s Head, renamed after the landlord in 1910 and now a jazz venue
55 This was a Varieties Music Hall built by C. J. Phipps in 1870. It opened as a cinema in 1914, known as the Cinema by architects were Lovegrove and Papworth. It was taken over the Hyams Circuit and in 1928 by Gaumont British Theatres. It was closed in 1956 and sold by the Rank Organisation in 1960 and was used as meat packers, a delicatessen importer and an artists' studio. In 2004 it was hoped to open it as a community cinema but the plans were revised and the auditorium was demolished. The facade has been preserved and it is hoped to build a new 4-screen cinema.
Aske's Hospital. This was established by the Haberdashers' Company under the will of Robert Aske, 1689.   The charity acquired the Pitfield Street site, and invested the remaining money in lands in Kent. Scientist Robert Hooke designed the buildings finished in 1695. A statue of Robert Aske was set in a niche over the central doorway. It was for twenty poor freemen of the Company and a school for twenty sons of freemen.   The original buildings were demolished in 1822 and replaced by others a designed by David Riddell Roper with big four column portico on the plain brick building. In 1873 the almshouses closed and were demolished while the school expanded and extended as a National School in 1873. Shoreditch Technical Institute was housed there from 1898.
City and East London College in what were Haberdashers’ almshouses. This was taken over by the London County Council in 1898. In 1951 it became the London College of Furniture. Private luxury housing is now in these charitable premises.
Aske Gardens. The open space in front was then designated as public open space when the LCC took over. The gardens remain a public amenity, laid out with recreational facilities despite private housing in the old charity buildings. The boundary with Pitfield Street still has its 19th railings on stone coping and stone gate piers.
George and Vulture. With tall striped gable. Claims to be built in 1870 and to be the tallest pub in London.
Public Baths. These were built by Spalding & Cross, with exterior by Hare alongside the generating station in Coronet Street to use the waste heat in 1899. They were also used for boxing matches as part of the local boys club.  They were demolished in 1962 after war damage. . 
Shoreditch Library. This is a Passmore Edwards donation  Library.  It was designed in 1895-7 by H. T. Hare brick and terracotta, in a style said to be derived from Norman Shaw's New Scotland Yard. The inside was restored after Second World War damage in 1955-6 by J.L. Sharratt.  Inside is a bust of Charles Bradlaugh. It was used for a time by English National Opera for rehearsals and workshops, but is now flats upstairs and downstairs performance spaces and rehearsal studios for the Courtyard Theatre. The Courtyard has a 150 seater Main House, an 80 seat Studio Theatre, and also rehearsal space such as the White Room

Rivington Street
A winding back lane to Old Street. The buildings are mainly workshops of the 1870s and 1880s, built for furniture makers.
10-26 workshops with downstairs shop windows.
32 LCC Electricity Sub-station. Built in 1907 it received current from Greenwich Power Station to use on London County Council tramways. It was probably designed by E. Vincent Harris an LCC architect who worked on several electricity generating stations.  This station served trams running from Stamford Hill to Bethnal Green and the docks. It housed switch gear in the basement and a generator in the room above.  It is now a restaurant complete with a Damien Hurst stuffed cow in formaldehyde on display.
54 Through the arch here were the works of Thomas Cox chair and couch makers. It has since been converted into offices
55-57 this was C & R Light's finishing workshop, where furniture bought in 'in the white' could be polished and upholstered. It was built in 1897. Sunburst archway. The trade was becoming increasingly fragmented, and. though they kept a 'house style'. Light's were typical in segregating their workshops from their salerooms
62-70 cabinet makers' workshops. Standard from workshops. Part of this is now the Bedroom Bar and some the Comedy Cafe, home of British stand-up
74 This was built around 1922 for Borst Brothers, manufacturers of plywood. Now offices and arty spaces. In front are bollards with the mark “ST L S 1836”
81 Offices built in the 1930s as an extension to Shoreditch Town Hall.   Coat of Arms over the door. Now private office, art gallery etc.
91-95 workshops.
Rivington Place. Building for the dissemination of ideas in contemporary art. Sustainable architecture with use of colour and design. Adjaye Associates 2007
The railway bridge is part of the line built in 1865 connecting the North London Railway at Dalston with the new Broad Street Station.

Shoreditch High Street,
118 ½ Clerk’s House. Built in 1735 with its gable to the road and four windows to the churchyard. It was used to lodge the schoolmaster or parish clerk, and for church meetings. There was a previous house on this site, which provided accommodation for a chantry priest before the  Reformation. There was a corresponding house in the opposite corner of the churchyard, which was demolished and replaced with a watch house.      It is now a shop, previously a boutique owned by Boy George.
125-130, built c. 1878 as Edward Wells & Co.'s Commercial Ironworks, probably as showrooms.  The windows have a mosaic decoration in Islamic style.  They advertised themselves as ‘contractors to HM dockyards, Metropolitan Board of Works, Corporation of London, School Board etc’, had left there by 1895
St.Leonard's Churchyard. The area of the churchyard was extended in 1671 when adjoining land on the east was granted for use as a burial ground as a result of a donation of £100 to the parish and was further extended in 1792 and again in 1820. It was closed for burials in 1857.  It became a public garden in the late 19th and some gravestones were cleared. The 18th cast-iron railings and wrought iron gates remain as do stocks and whipping post under a thatched roof like a lychgate. A plaque on the railings says 'More Light, More Power'– the motto of Shoreditch Borough Council. The churchyard was bombed in the Second World War. Around the back of the church stood the original air raid shelter
St.Leonard’s. The original church on this site was here in 1140s when it was granted to the Priory of Holy Trinity, Aldgate. This church is the medieval parish church rebuilt in 1736-40 by George Dance Sen., after the tower of the old church had partly collapsed during a service in 1716.  It is the 3rd church on the site and it stands at a datum point from which distances were measured. It was originally built of chalk and rubble, later brick and stone’. A chantry chapel was added in 1482. The steeple has a stone cupola with a lantern and a square obelisk top. The front of the church is in Portland stone with a four-column portico. Butterfield redecorated the church in 1870 but his work has been removed. The pulpit is from 1740 with a sounding board and a staircase. There is a top quality clock and a mahogany organ case made in 1756 by Richard Bridge. There are two 18th bread cupboards and four benefactors' and two commandment boards, as well as carved royal arms of George II. The bell boards frames date from 1777 - eight bells were cast in 1739; there are now twelve. - the tower originally held five bells, according to the nursery rhyme ….: 'When I grow rich, say the bells of Shoreditch'. In 1817 it was the first church in London to be lit by gaslight.  There is a stained glass window by A.K. Nicholson Studios from 1955. And many great monuments - Elizabeth Benson 1710, by Francis Bird of an oak tree carrying an inscription on drapery driven by two skeletons pulling hard at the branches. There is a memorial from the London Shakespeare League in 1913 to Shakespeare's theatre associates, including James Burbage and many actors of his generation are buried in the church. . Also buried here was Dr James Parkinson who first described Parkinson's Disease.


Tabernacle Street
Old Fire Station. Red brick 19th fire station built by the London County Council in 1895-6. The original fire doors are still visible but the ground floor is now a restaurant and the rest of the building is offices


Waterson Street
Walbrook – possible source of the eastern arm side of the Walbrook
23-35 site of what was the largest timber mixed-use building in the UK-with 11 flats and 7 workshops. There are also public artworks throughout.

SOURCES
Barton. The Lost Rivers of London
Blue Plaque Guide, English Heritage
Cinema Treasures. Web site
City and East London Beer Guide,
Clarke, Glimpses of Ancient Hackney and Stoke Newington
Clunn. London Marches On.
Clunn. The Face of London
English Heritage. Web site
Field. London Place Names
Geffrye Museum. Workshops and Warehouses.
GLIAS Newsletter
Greater London Council.  Home Sweet Home
Hackney Society. South Shoreditch.
Hackney Society. Web site
Industrial Archaeology,
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia,
London Gardens Online. Web site
London’s Industrial Archaeology
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Martin.  London Industry in the Nineteenth Century
Miele. Hoxton
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line
Nairn, Modern Buildings in London
National Archives, Web site
Pastscape. Web site
Robbins. The North London Railway,
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Strongroom. Web site
TBAOG, A Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London
Trench & Hillman. London Under London.
Weavers Company. Web site
Wilson. London’s Industrial Archaeology

North London Railway - Bethnal Green Boundary Estate

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – another quarter to go with the previous two quarters for this square.)


North London Railway
The Railway continues to run northwards

Post to the west Hoxton


Arnold Circus
The Boundary Estate was the result of a major slum clearance of the 1890s. This area, called Friars Mount, was part of an area parcelled out in building leases in the early 19th and may have been named after a farmer called Fryer.  It had become an area of speculative building and absentee landlords.  Housing, originally cottages for weavers, had been crammed and infilled with badly built and ruinous dwellings with little drainage or water supply and grossly overcrowded inhabited by those barely able to make a living. One in every four children born here died in childhood. Its poverty and desperation drew philanthropists from the late 18th and reformers attempted to improve health and housing. The London County Council was instrumental in bringing about a change more than any other. The Boundary Estate is a milestone. The 1890 Housing of the Working Classes Act enabled the London County Council to develop a comprehensive plan of clearance and redevelopment for rehousing of 5,300 people. The plan was developed from 1893 under a Housing of the Working Classes Branch of the LCC’s Architect's Department had been set up under Owen Fleming. They planned the estate around a central circus with radiating tree-lined avenues. Two blocks were designed by Rowland Plumbe and the remaining nineteen buildings were undertaken by the council under their architect, W.E.Riley. Each block designed by a different architect while maintaining a unity through the use of common brick, and decoration. There were also 18 shops, a surgery, workshops, costermonger’s sheds, and a central laundry with bathrooms, two clubrooms, and two school sites. It was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1900.  
Circular Garden.  Streets radiate out from the central garden on the mound which is the focus of the estate. In the middle is a high terraced garden with a timber bandstand. The Site of the Mount has been said to be an ancient mound and ley line from St Martin in the Field. There is however no sign of a mound on older maps and the mound in fact consists of building rubble and domestic waste. The buildings around the circus set the tone and the building style for the estate. These gardens were built as the first where a social space, for public arts and cultural events was seen as a fundamental part of, and central to the design of a social housing.  In the early 21st a Friends Group has overseen restoration and enhancement work.   Iron Railings and overthrows with decorative panels.
Bandstand, this Forms a focal point visible from each of the radiating streets of the estate. It is Octagonal in Japanese style in wood with a tiled roof and a clapboard balustrade. It was erected in 1912,
Chertsey House. One of the five blocks around the circus.  It was designed by R. Minton Taylor built 1895-6. It is in red brick with pink banding to brickwork on the 2nd and 3rd floors. On the Ground floor is a central round arched door.
Hurley House.  Red brick glazed ground floor with stuccoed string course above
Sandford House.  Smaller, charming, with three-bay fronts, wider bands of pink and orange brick and windows framed by projecting vertical strips. Designed by R Minton Taylor and completed in 1895-6
Iffley House. Classically detailed and designed, 1896-8 by A.M. Phillips. The entrance is at the rear, leaving the facade free for a pair of broad windows to the ground floor in glazed brown brick.
Marlow House. Built in 1899 in red brick, there are contemporary shop fronts on the ground floor
Marlow Workshops. Behind Marlow House is a short row of two-storey workshops built behind by the LCC for small businesses displaced by the slum clearance in 1899. They are b Red brick,
Shiplake House. This flanks the opening to Arnold Circus. It was built in 1899 in red brick. The ground floor has contemporary shop fronts
Rochelle Primary School. This is a London School Board school of 1879 by E.R. Robson. The caretaker’s house is part of the site and was added in 1899 by T.J.Bailey. It is a half-octagon with a chimney with a plaque giving indicates the date of construction which shows it was built as part of the reconstruction of the Boundary Street area. Bailey also added the Infant School with its covered playground on the roof.  There is a brick wall surrounding the school and iron railings with urn finials. The buildings are now home to a community of graphic designers, architects, media companies, fashion brands and artists. The main school is now the Studio Block Home to a community of artists and creative industries housed in workspace studios in the old classrooms. There is a meeting room and two former school assembly halls also available. The infants’ school is now called Club Row offering flexible spaces for hire. The Rochelle Canteen is in part of the playground and the rest of the playground has been landscaped to provide a lawn, bicycle parking, outdoor eating area and allotments.


Austin Street
Mildmay Mission and Hospice. Mildmay began in the 1860s and the work carried out by Rev Pennefather, vicar at St Jude’s, Mildmay Park. He developed projects known as Mildmay Institutions, giving spiritual guidance and care for the sick setting up a dispensary. They responded initially in 1866 to a cholera outbreak in some of the worst slums. The work of the deaconesses expanded and the first Mission Hospital was set up in an old warehouse near Shoreditch Church in 1890-2 built by the hospital specialist R.H. Hill with later additions. It had 27 beds and 1892 Mildmay Mission Hospital opened. It joined the National Health Service in 1948 but was regarded as uneconomic because of its size and was closed down in 1982. Its supporters began the fight for survival it reopened in 1988 as Europe’s first hospice for people with HIV/AIDS. As medication developed and need changed, Mildmay changed its focus from end of life care to specialised rehabilitation. Today Mildmay is at the forefront of specialist HIV service delivery and care and the the only evangelical mission hospital left in Britain.  Redeveloped in 2004 by Feilden Clegg Bradley.
Providence Chapel. This originally fronted onto to Austin Street but its replacement Tabernacle now fronts onto Hackney Road.  It’s burial-ground which opened in 1835 is now under low-rise flats facing onto Austin Street.

Baroness Road
Named after Angela Burdett-Coutts and covers some of the area of her Columbia Market.  It is now system built local authority housing.
St Thomas Church. This was built in 1848, designed by Lewis Vulliamy. And financed by William Cotton as a memorial to his son. The church was damaged during Second World War bombing and demolished.


Boundary Street
The road marked the division between the parishes of Shoreditch and Bethnal Green. By the end of the 19th it also marked the boundary between 'respectable' East London and the 'criminal' district.
Cleeve Workshops. Built 1895-8. By Reginald Minton Taylor of London County Council. In yellow brick and each workshop has a wide door planked with the upper part glazed units. An integral part of the Boundary Street Estate and still house small businesses.
William the Conqueror. Pub which has been derelict but may not be now.

Brick Lane
This end of Brick Lane was once known as Turk Street.
Weavers Community Trust offices

Calvert Avenue
This was the original main road leading from Shoreditch High Street to the area of the boundary estate. It was widened and extended to provide a grander entrance to the estate. The tree-lined Avenue was remodelled with shops facing the road and workshops behind. Some original shop fronts remain.
28 Boundary Estate Community Laundrette. In 1990 the Boundary Estate Tenants Association was approached by the Environment Trust with funding for a community enterprise. The launderette idea was formed, and it opened in 1992 as a not-for-profit community business
Cleeve House. Tenement block built in 1895-9 by Reginald Minton Taylor of London County Council Architects Department. It is in red brick with original shop fronts on the ground floor with plate glass windows in timber frames. It is an integral part of the Boundary Street Estate.

Columbia Road
Names after the bishopric of British Columbia founded by Angela Burdett Coutts in 1857.
In the 18th Shoreditch's began to expand along Columbia Road, then known as Crabtree Row and just a lane leading to the Nag's Head pub on Hackney Road.  The eastern end was called Birdcage Walk after 1760 and was part of the estate of the Jesus Hospital, Barnet founded by James Ravenscroft. By the 19th the area was full of workshops and poor quality housing.  
Leopold Buildings. Built in 1872 for Sydney Waterlow's Improved Industrial Dwellings Co. on land belonging to Angela Burdett Coutts. The blocks extended the possibilities of the flat prototype which had been developed by Waterlow's builder, Matthew Al1en, in the 1860s.  Most of the flats are within a large symmetrical terrace with open stairs and access balconies behind curly iron balustrades and with the company's usual decoration. They were refurbished in 1996 by Floyd Slaski Partnership for Ujima Housing who added new stair-towers at the rear while maintaining the integrity of the original façade.
Cuff Point. Tower block by the GLC Architects, 1972 on land previously a nursery adjacent to the market area. It is 14 storeys in brick
Columbia Market Nursery School. Founded in 1930 and built by the London County Council Architects' Department. It has a timer frame and is planned around a courtyard which was enclosed in 1935.  Nurseries in this era followed the principles of the Macmillan sisters in Greenwich. In 1928, the LCC resolved to build two experimental nurseries – this was one of them. The first head-teacher noted that of the first 88 children around 80 percent were inadequately nourished. Outside are Gothic railings and gate piers, the sole remnants of the Columbia Market 
27 Columbia Road Youth Project
Columbia Market. This failure was the gift of Angela Burdett-Coutts as an attempt to improve conditions in the east end. She hoped to provide a market place were traders could provide fresh and wholesome food.  Her architect was Henry Darbishire and it cost £200,000 to build.  It was erected on the site of a dust-heap, and had a Gothic hall, fifty feet high, with rich external decorations. It was also planned for a railway line to be built from the Dunloe Street area on the North London Railway to the market.   It was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1869.  It closed within six months.  It was reopened as a fish market but doomed through opposition from Billingsgate. It was then given to the City Corporation and three years later they gave it back. It reopened as a meat market, then as another fish market – In 1885 it finally closed. By 1905 it belonged to the London County Council and after bombing had been used as a depot. In the early 1960s preservation of a building was not considered and it was demolished in 1960
Columbia Buildings. Were built 1859 - 1862 by Angela Burdett-Coutts, who had bought up the densely-populated, slum Nova Scotia Gardens. Integrated with the market on four sides they were to be model dwellings for the working classes.  Henry Darbishire, later architect to Peabody, designed them. They provided 180 sets of rooms, which housed more than 1,000 people and also reading rooms and laundry facilities. They were demolished from the mid 1950s.
Newling Estate, including Old Market Square – this was built on the site of Columbia Market in 1963-4 by the London County Council. Newling was the name of a local street, now gone.
Sivill House - Flats on site of Columbia Dwellings. This is a brick double tower block by Skinner & Bailey, 1964-6. The two blocks are linked by a circular service tower with a dramatic internal spiral staircase. The geometric patterning of the elevations is y Lubetkin and are stylised versions of dragons on a rug from the Caucasus which hung on the wall of his studio. The block has 76 flats over 19 floors. Was named after Cllr. Sivill who was a Mayor of Bethnal Green.
42 Bird Cage pub.  Bird cages in the ceiling. Established in 1760 and recently renovated in ‘classic Truman pub style’
Flower Market. Successor to Columbia Market. This is a long-established Sunday flower market, one of the largest in London by 1900
73 Royal Oak Pub, designed in 1925 by Truman's architect A.E. Sewell, in a variation of his Anglo-Dutch style with curved faience-clad gables. Inside is an unusual glass ceiling.
Ravesnscroft Park. Neighbourhood park created from demolitions as new estates replaced old housing and factories in the 1960s.
Columbia Primary School. Opened in1875 as Barnet Street board and renamed as Columbia Road School in 1888

Diss Street
Vaughan Estate. A cluster of two-storey buildings, making up about 20 flats. Inset into the wall, is a stone plaque with details of the opening of the estate in 1922. It was named after Bethnal Green’s Mayor Joseph Vaughan and formed part of the Diss Street Re-Housing Scheme.
Dorset Library. Now out of use as a library which was a 1950s two storey circular building.  Its upper storey, for a community room, originally overhung the ground floor.
Dorset Estate. Built 1955-7 by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin. It has eight blocks, each named after one of the Tolpuddle Martyrs. Most of the flats are in a pair of eleven-storey Y-shaped blocks with patterned facades in reinforced concrete.


Ebor Street
The back of Lipton's block of 1933 by Hal Williams & Co.,
No doubt expensive graffiti


Equity Square
New housing on the site of an old Quaker burial ground. Previously called The Quaker Square. In use from 1792 until 1855 as the grounds of a Congregational chapel. 

Ezra Street
1 a large warehouse by WA. Finch, 1894, converted and reconstructed for industrial units and residential studios in 1991 by Hunt Thompson Associates. Now includes a furniture maker.

Gascoigne Place
Dunmore Point. Built in 1966 tower block with 14 floors.

Gibraltar Walk
1-9 two storey workshops previously known as Quaker Square workshops
Gibraltar Chapel was said to be congregational chapel, and also said to be Wesleyan. In addition the burial ground is said to be Quaker (see above)

Goresuch Street
Workshops converted into housing

Gosset Street
Bethnal Green Academy. Formerly known as Daneford and Bethnal Green High School and Bethnal Green Technology College. It became co-educational in 1997. Daniel Secondary school had been opened by the School Board for London in 1900 in new buildings. After the Second World War it was reorganised and was a secondary modern school from 1955. It was amalgamated with Mansford Secondary school to form Daneford in 1959. Its most famous alumni are the Kray twins. 

Hackney Road
Mildmay Mission Hospital.  The main building now fronts on Austin Street. An extension faced Hackney Road built in 1964-5 and has been replaced. Clinic by Powell Moya Partnership, 1994 with bedrooms on the upper floors with balconies overlooking Hackney Road.
11a Printing House Yard
18-20 Shoreditch Tabernacle. This was originally Providence chapel and began with a group associated with ragged schools in the area in the 1830s.They acquired a site in Austin Street in 1835 for a chapel for Particular or Calvinistic Baptist and a new schoolroom was added in 1844. The building was in a simple classical style. By the congregation was working-class and social work was increasingly important. The building was neglected and damaged by bombing in 1944, and was demolished in 1960. A new brick chapel opened in 1963.
Recreation  Ground. Open area with big trees and a table tennis table. This is the former graveyard of  St.Leonard's Church which closed for burials in 1857. Shoreditch Council took it over soon after and levelled it as a playground - with a forma layout. Later there was a tennis court added.
69 Ye Olde Axe. Tiled pub front, fruity swags, and corner turrets said to be mirrors and booths inside. The pub dates from the mid 19th and is said to be haunted.  Now a night club with strippers.
79 Welsh Chapel. This is now a new build Tesco

Hocker Street
Virginia School boundary wall. This is in stock brick with red and blue brick and stone. There are entrances and wrought iron gates.
Sunbury Workshops are two-storey in eight units, of four workshops each, with central recessed entrance, loading door and hoist jib, very large cast-iron windows, and a north-light roof. Designed by C.C. Winmill 1894

Horatio Street
32 Nelson’s Head.Pub

Kirton Gardens
Low rise 1960s local authority housing

Long Street
Area of industrial units. The County of London Plan of 1943 had recommended new flatted factory areas for clothing, furniture and related industries. A scheme here in Long Street was the first undertaken by the London County Council and many of the first tenants had been displaced due to public housing programmes in Bethnal Green.

Factories designed in 1955 by LCC Architect, Hubert Bennett and constructed in pre-cast concrete. There are three main blocks, providing a total of 56 workshops on four floors.  Another block was built further down the street. Behind the blocks, by the railway viaduct, were lock-up storage units and parking spaces.
A smaller factory block was built on the south side of the street
 
Montclare Street
Cookham House. This is a contrast with the early residential blocks nearby. Said to be in a mature style and built in 1897 by R. Minton Taylor. The wall plane is broken with tall, projecting bays and two-storey gables.  It is in red brick
Porters’ House. This is the old laundry. The absence of washing facilities within the blocks mean a communal laundry was needed although no bath-house was provided. Built in 1894-6 by William Hynam.


Navarre Street
Wargrave House. Built 1897 and designed by William Hynam
Hedsor House, one of four designs by C.C. Winmill 1898
Abingdon House, 1896-8 by A.M. Phillips, a conical tiled roof above the corner with Boundary Street

Padbury Court
16-30 two storey workshops previously known as Quaker Square workshops

Palissy Street
Taplow House. Built 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill

Pelter Street
Medical Centre. Built in 1993 by Stock Woolstencroft, in stripy brick with a projecting glazed upper floor over the entrance.

Ravenscroft Street
4 Ravenscroft pub. This was the Royal Victoria designed by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin. In matching style to the estate
51-61 four terraced houses and a postmodern block of flats designed by Hunt Thompson Associates.


Rochelle Street
Culham House, 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill. It is between Hurley and Sonning Houses in yellow stock bricks with red brick dressings
Shacklewell Street
A narrow cobbled street, one of the remaining original lanes.
25-35 two storey workshops previously known as Quaker Square workshops
Ball games area

Shipton Street
2-14 Neo-Georgian cottage flats of 1939 by Ian B. Hamilton with large sashes and bracketed hoods to the doors,
Cottages.  Short terrace of Victorian workers' cottages with wide arched ground-floor windows.
William Fenn House is a terrace by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin in the brick and concrete livery of the Dorset Estate.
Sundial Centre– community and day centre.

Swanfield Street
74 weaver's house. This is probably 18th.
Streatley Buildings.  The LCC's first dwellings for the Boundary Estate were on the east side. Erected 1893-4. Demolished 1971. They were thought to be too Spartan in appearance and too generous in the number of self-contained flats per floor
Henley House. By Roland Plumbe 1894,
Sonning House built 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill
Sunbury House built 1894-6 by C. C. Winmill.


Virginia Road
The road name dares from before 1746 when it was in open country; the road was an eastward extension of Castle Street and had houses by 1682.
Virginia Primary School.  London School Board of 1875 with later alterations.  A classic Robson three-decker.
57 Three Loggerheads. Watney pub converted to flats.    The pub was there in 1722 when it was called the Two Loggerheads.  In 1990 it was renamed Turtles and closed in 1999  
Virginia Gardens – small park

Waterson Street
Flatted factory units built by the London County Council in 1955

Sources
Bird Cage. Web site
Blue Plaque Guide, English Heritage
British History Online. Bethnal Green. Web site.
City and East London Beer Guide
Clunn. London Marches On.
Clunn. The Face of London
Columbia Market. Web site
Columbia School, Web site
English Heritage. Web site
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Greater London Council.  Home Sweet Home
Hackney Society. Web site
Healey. Lady Unknown
London Borough of Tower Hamlets. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens Online. Web site
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Martin.  London Industry in the Nineteenth Century
Mildmay. Web site
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line
National Archives. Web site
Pastscape. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London East
Robbins. The North London Railway
Rochelle School. Web site
TBAOG, A Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London

North London Railway - Haggerston

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the south east quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The North London Railway continues northwards

Post to the south Bethnal Green Boundary Estate


Cremer Street
The road was in the past Thomas Street and then Harwar Street after Harwar Almshouses. It is said to have been full of pretty cottages
Harwar Almshouses. These stood on the corner with Kingsland Road and were in both roads. They were built in 1710 as part of a bequest from Samuel Harwar funded by income from land, mainly in Kent and administered by the Drapers Company. They were demolished as being beyond modernising, pensions were provided with the remaining income and shops and a factory built on the Kingsland Road.
1-13 17-25 large 1960’s industrial building on four floors, on two adjoining sites, converted to provide 90 studios,
Arch 402 Gallery. This opened in 2010 and showcases up-coming artists. It is in a railway arch next to Hoxton station, and includes an outside space
37 Cremer Business Centre
Peabody flats on the site of a former multi-storey car pack
32 Marquis of Lansdowne. Closed in 2000 and derelict –may have been demolished.

Dawson Street
Nursery School which had been part of Scawfell Street School. The site is now modern flats

Dunloe Street
Mother Kate Homes. In 1866, three nursing sisters from the Anglican Society of St Margaret, East Grinstead moved here to come here to help the poor and cholera victims. The sisters built St Saviour’s Priory in 1890 naming it the Mother Kate Homes, after a former nun. It was used in the Second World War as an air raid shelter. In 1976, the convent was extended with a block, Designed by Laurence King. It is now an Anglican community of ordained and lay women, running retreats workshops
St.Chad. Built by the Haggerston Churches Scheme in 1867-9 by Stoke Newington based  James Brooks, the architect of several forceful churches built for the, but Now the only one of them in use by the Church of England.  It is a tall, compact building of red brick, in austere Early Gothic. It has a timber bell-turret above the crossing, and no tower.
Vicarage, also by Brooks, of 1873-4 in red brick with a circular turret.
Low rise housing built -by-housing associations in the 1990s
Dunloe Street Depot. This London & North Western Railway Depot was in use 1893-1968. Dunloe Street Signal Box. It was on the viaduct and served a small goods yard belonging to the London & North Western Railway, also at viaduct level but served as a section splitter on this route. Access from ground level was via a circular iron staircase. Although is survived longer than most such boxes Its importance fell as train service were reduced and it was no longer used in the early 1970s. In 1976, the signal arms were removed and the levers bolted it was however retained in case a need arose. The line closed in 1986

Geffrye Street
Hoxton Station. This station was opened to the public in 2010, with services between running Dalston and New Cross soon after extended to Croydon or ‘Crystal Palace. In 1993 London Underground had originally proposed the station on a line from Whitechapel to Dalston.  It is sited on the tracks which lead to the Dunloe Street Depot. It is a two-platform station with the ticket office and entrance under the viaduct. Access to the platforms is via a lift and stairs
372 Art gallery in arches under the railway
385 bakery in arches under the railway
397 – 400 café, bar in the railway arches below Hoxton station.
War Memorial. This memorial was originally erected in 1921 at Broad Street Station. When Broad Street was demolished it was moved to Richmond Station car park. It was erected here in Hoxton, with a rededication ceremony in 2010. Hoxton is on the lines that used to run into Broad Street and so is a more appropriate location than Richmond. The inscription says ‘In memory of North London Railwaymen who fell in the Great War, 1914 - 1919.’ the other three sides carry a list of 65 names.

Hackney Road
Several stretches of 19th terraces some with shop fronts built over gardens.
137 Flying Scud. This was on the corner of Cremer Street but now demolished. It was a 1860s public house with rooms above. The front was overlaid with white tiles probably from.1910 when what had been a beer house was re-modelled for Truman, Hanbury and Buxton. The Flying Scud was a sailing-ship of the 1850’s and the name of a race horse of the 1870s. In 1901, there was a West End hit drama called “The Flying Scud,” featuring a live horse on stage.
155 Chip shop, once the Manchester Arms pub.
Fellows Court.  Two tower blocks from a rebuilding Commissioned by Shoreditch Borough Council in 1963.
193 The British Lion Pub. This has a single-storey, Edwardian bar extension on a 19th terraced house. It has its shop front with plate-glass windows and glazed tiles
211 Odeon cinema, this was the 124th Odeon opened in 1938 designed Andrew Mather, in Art Deco style, stream-lined design with a smooth elevation to the road faced in white tiles. It closed as a cinema in 1961, and was converted into a Top Rank Bingo Hall – the first such conversion
162 Chapelgate. Housing in a converted church. In 1797 the Middlesex chapel was built here, described as an ‘independent meeting house’ (marked merely as M on the Horwood plan) and many important preachers spoke there on ethical and religious issues of the day.  In 1888 it was reorganised as the Hackney Road branch of the Wesleyan Missionary society.
The Strangest Week– this was alongside Diss Street by graffiti artist Ben Seine. Since removed.

Horatio Street
Horatio House, Built in 1936 and part of the Peabody Nags Head Estate. It has balconies stacked on iron columns. Each block on the estate had dated rainwater hoppers decorated with horse heads.

Kent Street
St.Mary’s Community Hall

Ormsby Street
Randall Cremer Primary School. Very plain school built 1875.called after Randall Cremer, MP for the area in the 1880s
Wall down the west side – above this were the Dunloe Street Depot sidings.

Pearson Street
Apples and Pears. Adventure playground founded in the 1980s
St.Mary's Community Garden. This is named after St Mary's Church which was nearby but destroyed by bombing in the Second World War. Where the garden is now was terraced housing, but it was replaced after the Second World War with pre-fabs, themselves demolished in the 1970s. An old street lamp remains within the garden. In the 1990s local residents agreed with the GLC to establish a community garden here. From .1997 -l 2003, it was run by Thrive as a project for people with mental health issues and various disabilities. In 2003 it was renamed St Mary's Secret Garden and is now run as a community garden.
24 Rankin’s Glass. This firm dates to the 1880s but also include Ide’s who dated from the 1830s.  They make specially toughened glass and moved to Shoreditch having been bombed out of Farringdon Road in the 1940s. They are in the space under the old Dunloe Street Rail Depot.

Queensbridge Road
Once called Great Cambridge  Street
St Saviour's Priory.  This is one of the autonomous Houses of the Society of St Margaret founded by John Mason Neale. The priory was built in the 19th and reconstructed in the 1970s. This is an Anglican nursing order that came here in the mid-19th.  Their very large building is available for retreats, etc.   Their church is to the east of this square and is now an art gallery.
Haggerston Park. The park was developed in two phases - the old gas works was in the northern half of the site and became a public park in the late 1950s and the southern half of the park was developed in the 1980s. In 1958 The London County Council began work to clear the old gas works site and turn it into a park. At first this was just the area within the gas works walls. The walled garden was laid out out in Arts and Crafts style. Further expansion in the 1960s  -80s led to the purchase of the remainder of the existing park site south of Edith Street on land previously taken up with housing.  Other developments took place to the east
Gas works. This was the third works of the Imperial Gas Company - a large early speculative partly fraudulent gas company. The site was taken on a 60 year lease from Rhodes, the north London builders and brickmakers. There was a chapel on the site, which had to be demolished, and a large pond at the southern end. The works was built by George Holsworthy Palmer, eventually sacked in 1823. The works continued in use until 1954 although it has been said to be out of action through bombing since the early 1940s. Its longevity was attributed to its good position for coke sales - despite its smallness, its old-fashioned equipment and lack of a rail connection.  The great brick wall of the works still exists around the site.
Canal inlet. In February 1824, a stretch of canal was opened to the ‘acclamation of the proprietors’ as ‘Haggerston Basin’ from the Regent’s Canal, into the gas works. This Basin formed the western boundary of the works and, although long filled in, can be traced in the park where it is known as Canal Bed. This canal inlet became increasingly important since no railway ever ran near enough to the works to effect a junction for coal deliveries.
Sebright Childen's Centre
149 The Acorn Pub

Scawfell Street
Scawfell Street School. 19th school used as a secondary school and later replaced with Haggerston School and demolished.

Thurtle Road
Was Brunswick Road
St. Mary Church built in 1826 by Nash.  It was bombed and demolished in 1951.

Weymouth Terrace
Haggerston Girls School.   A girls' secondary school by Erno Goldfinger, 1962-7, and his only secondary school for the London County Council. It has a reinforced concrete frame and is made up of with three linked blocks: a central teaching spine with a library; an entrance block to the assembly hall and music rooms; and staff accommodation and gym - even the rooftop water tanks are arranged with care. There is also a caretaker’s house
Kate Greenaway Building. This was the Kate Greenaway Library designed in 1962. A colourful little building with orange mosaic-clad columns and tile panels above.  It is now a community centre with a computer training centre and AJRAF Resource Centre (Albert Joyle Relief Agency Foundation)

Whiston Road
Haggerston Baths.  Built in 1903-4 by the baths specialist, A. W. S. Cross in red brick with Baroque detail. The pediment has the reclining figures of a man and a woman modelled by Frederick Schenck, carved by Martyn & Co. There is a cupola with a gilded ship weathervane. Originally it has a swimming pool, 91 slipper baths and a 60 stall laundry wash house. It closed in 2000 but in June 2009 after a long community campaign, a grant was announced but this is now on hold
151 community centre for refuges from Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.
Old King Johns Head. Pub, closed and demolished
Bryant Court – this and other block of flats in the area now demolished.

Sources
Acorn Archive. Web site
Aldous. London’s Villages.
Arch 42. Web site
Cinema Treasures Web site
Clarke. Hackney,
Clunn. The Face of London
Darke. The Monument Guide
Dodds. London Then,
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Hoxton Station. Wikipedia Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
London Railway Record
London Remembers. Web site
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mary’s gas books. Web site
Miele. Hoxton
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
O’Connor. Forgotten Stations
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Randall Cremer School. Web site
Robins. North London Railway
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Signal Box. Web site
Stewart. Gasworks of the North Thames Division
St.Mary’s Secret Green. Web site
Summerson, Georgian London
Walford. Highgate and Hampstead to the Lea
Willatts. Streets of Islingt

North London Railway - Haggerston

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the north east quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The railway continues go run northwards

Post to the south Haggerston


Broke Walk
This is roughly the line of Broke Road where St.Paul’s Church and associated schools stood slightly to the east

Regents Canal
Original Rail Bridge carrying the North London Linethis was a two span half through bridge with a deck of longitudinal box girders and cross girders of wrought iron plates. The deck was supported on iron columns next to the tow path.
Gas Works wall from Laburnum Street.  A large brick wall dominated the canal on its south side where the Gas, Light & Coke Co.. had its gas works
Laburnam Boat Club. This opened in 1983 on some of the site of the Independent Gas Works. A small group of local people who formed the Club spent years clearing the site, dredging the basin and building the timber A-frame Club Hut. There are hundreds of children and young people in Haggerston in need of affordable, accessible physical recreation.  The club uses the basin to which coal was delivered by barge.
Horse ramps in the side of the canal on this stretch. They are there so horses could be led out of the anal after they had fallen in.
New Rail Bridge.  As a replacement Hackney Council wanted a structure which would stand out. It is thought to be the first tied arch bridge on a mainline railway since Brunel’s bridge of 1849 at Windsor.  A singe span bridge also meant that they could avoid the CEGB cable which runs under the towpath. The original abutments were kept to support the bridge but the foundations of the northern ones needed to be redug.
Entrance to Haggerston Basin. At one time piling on the canal wall could be seen at the point at which the entrance to the basin left the canal to go into the Imperial Company’s Gas Works in Whiston Road. There is now housing on the site


Duston Road.
Samuel House. Last to be demolished of the Haggerston Estate, redeveloped by London and Quadrant.  Arts project before demolition.
Bollard. 19th cast gun post inscribed "BOROUGH OF SHOREDITCH

Haggerston Road.
Regents Canal Bridge. This is the original bridge built 1816-20 with some later alterations. It is a single span brick bridge and an elliptical arch. The parapets were partly rebuilt in the late 19th. . There are iron guards to protect the stonework. 
164 Seventh Day Adventist Church. The church was originally based in Stoke Newington and moved here in 1980.
All Saints Centre. Meeting Rooms and community space.  Clowns Gallery and Museum. This is a private museum founded in 1960 to house pictures and artifacts relating to clowning and its history from earliest times. It also has props, costumes and a literary archive. Registered clown faces stored on painted eggs.


Laburnum Street
Bridge Academy. This once was the Laburnum Street Board School with an addition dated 1908. The new UBS sponsored academy is an innovative vertical compact school shaped around a multi-level 'heartspace' Conceived as a piece of architectural origami of 2008. A transparent ethylene tetra fluoro ethylene cushion, is stretched over the outside of the building. It was designed by BDP as a 'seven-level interactive learning environment'.  It specialises in music and mathematics.
Shoreditch Independent Gas Light and Coke Co.   This company was started in the mid-1820s and, once they had a site began to make gas about a year later.  It belonged to two employees of the Gas Light and Coke Company who following some problems settled for Haggerston buying land from Rhodes, the building and brickmaking contractors.  The proprietors were mainly local businessmen but at a share auction the police had to be called.’  The works had a frontage on the Regent’s Canal and an inlet for coal deliveries was built off the canal. The first of years proceeded without incident, apart from legal action by the Regent’s Canal Company for their effluent disposal. but the company’s shares crashed in 1826 it was reconstituted  The works was operational until 1900 - it had been taken over by the Gas Light and Coke Co. in 1876. The site was cleared later and stove and meter workshops were there until the 1950s. The site is now housing.
Kingsland Estate.  LCC estate now demolished

Lee Street
Haggerston Station The station was opened in 2010 with a service between Dalston Junction and New Cross or New Cross Gate. Later that year services were extended New Cross Gate to West Croydon or Palace. The station was designed by Acanthus LW Architects with a design recalling the style of here is a large mural to Edmond Halley, who was born locally

Queensbridge Road,
Regents Canal bridge. This is a simple single span bridge with an elliptical arch. It is in 18th red brick, with outer parts of 19th stock brick. The parapet coping is still later engineering brick.
Distillery. This is marked on 1890s maps and speculatively is the Analytical Laboratory of Barnett and Foster Ltd
Queens Road Chapel. This was a Baptist church.

Stean Street
The Kray Twins were born here
Old Haggerston Station. This was slightly south of the current Haggerston Station. It was opened in 1867. The Company first intended to name it De-Beauvoir Town Station but changed their minds before completion. It was a two storey building of yellow stocks brick which was in the south side of Lee Street and by the late 1930s it was little used. At track level the layout was similar to Shoreditch, with platforms serving the original three lines only, and in platform on the line added in 1874. Trains stopped calling in 1940 and soon after the building was bombed as was the signal box. The wooden platform buildings had gone by the 1960s and the platforms were covered in foliage.
Signal box - 'No.l' was at the north end of the island platform
Signal box – No.2. Was built out from the viaduct, at the south end of the station,

Whiston Road
Haggerston Baths.  Built in 1903-4 by the baths specialist, A. W. S. Cross in red brick with Baroque detail. The pediment has the reclining figures of a man and a woman modelled by Frederick Schenck, carved by Martyn and Co. There is a cupola with a gilded ship weathervane. Originally it has a swimming pool, 91 slipper baths and a 60 stall laundry wash house. It closed in 2000 but in June 2009 after a long community campaign, a grant was announced but this is now on hold
151 community centre for refugees from Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia.
Old King Johns Head. Pub, closed and demolished
Bryant Court – this and other block of flats in the area now demolished.
Entrance gate to the park with an adjacent shelter with seating and brick piers supporting a balcony above. This is accessed by spiral staircase.

Sources
Bridge Academy Web site
Bridge works on the East London Line extension. Web site
Cinema Treasures Web site
Clarke. Hackney
Clunn. The Face of London
Dodds. London Then,
Essex Lopresti. The Regent’s Canal
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Haggerston Station.  Wikipedia. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On Line. Web site
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mary’s gas books. Web site
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
O’Connor. Forgotten Stations
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Robins. North London Railway
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Stewart. Gasworks of the North Thames Division

North London Line Railway Dalston

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the south  east quarter for this square.)

North London Line
The railway continues northwards

Post to the south Haggerston

Acer Road
The current Acer Road is a new cut through with new build housing as part of the 2011 Holly Street Regeneration Project. Acer Road has however moved about a bit – relatively recently it was part of Richmond Road, and previously elsewhere.

Albion Drive.
Queensbridge Primary School. London School Board School Opened in 1898 as Queen's Road School. It is a monumental building with a four-storey central section. The type developed from the 1870s, to the three-decker compositions of T.J. Bailey in the 1890s. It was reorganised in 1923 and again in 1929 by then taking senior boys, juniors and infants. It was renamed as Queensbridge Road School in 1939. By 1951 it was primary only. It also housed the Hackney Teachers’ centre.

Albion Square
The square was inherited in 1838 by the Middleton family and Sir William Middleton commissioned the building of the square in 1844. Work was done by a local builder Islip Odell, and supervised by Middleton's surveyor, George Pownell. It has houses on three sides.  Many houses are either nationally or locally listed and a number of them maintain show piece gardens.
Gardens. In 1898 the central garden was acquired from Lady de Saumarez through grants from the Metropolitan Public Gardens Association, the Metropolitan Board of Works and the LCC. The garden was then laid out by Fanny Wilkinson, landscape gardener to the MPGA. The garden had four London plane trees planted in a square, each with a circular seat round the trunk. The Garden was given to Hackney Vestry in 1899 and it was opened by Lord Meath, Chair of the MPGA,
Garden pavilion. This is a wooden building structure with a pitched roof.
Drinking Fountain. This is a stone water fountain including a trough. There are Flower and foliage details with the initials 'PE'. The inscription reads: 'THIS GARDEN WAS LAID OUT IN 1890 FOR PUBLIC ENJOYMENT BY THE METROPOLITAN PUBLIC GARDEN ASSOCIATION LANCASTER GATE AND IN 1910 THE SAME ASSOCIATION THROUGH THE GENEROSITY OF J PASSMORE EDWARDS ESQ WAS ENABLED TO COMPLETE ITS WORK BY ERECTING THERIN THIS DRINKING FOUNTAIN FOR FREE PUBLIC USE WHICH THE METROPOLITAN BOROUGH COUNCIL OF HACKNEY HAS KINDLY AGREED TO MAINTAIN.

Albion Terrace
Albion Hall. This was on the west side and the housed the Kingsland, Dalston and De Beauvoir Town Scientific Institution in 1850. It was leased to the London County Council from 1906, but it is now demolished.  There is now pastiche housing on the site built in 1994
Albion Baths. This was a privately owned pool built in the 1860s. It was closed by the 1890s and taken over by the London School Board to use as an educational facility.  It was bombed in 1944 and later demolished to be replaced by pre-fabs.  There is now pastiche housing on the site.

Beehive Close
Beehive was the name of a pub in Holly Street
Evergreen Play Association. Adventure playground

Evergreen Square
Playspace by Snug and Outdoor. Half the square is a dynamic play space and the other half provides a more peaceful environment. A poem by Chris Meade and primary school pupils is in the paving, the benches and in steel panels at the entrances.

Frederick Terrace
This is a narrow passage alongside the railway and slum cleared in the 1930s.  Railway arches with businesses in them.

Glebe Road
A long narrow passage alongside the railway paved with granite setts. Works and warehouses along it are now light industry and studios.

Haggerston Road
All Saints.  This was built in 1855-6 designed by Philip Hardwick. It has a ragstone exterior with decorated windows. The aisles were rebuilt and extended with galleries by T. E. Knightley, with galleries on iron columns. In 1998, it became a United Benefice with Holy Trinity with St Philip, Dalston
War Memorial.  This is in the churchyard and is a cross. On the base is written “To the greater glory of God and in proud and thankful memory of the men of this church and parish who laid down their lives in the Great War 1914 – 1919”.
Stonebridge common. In 1883 the triangular area in the north of today’s park was given to the Hackney Board of Works and protected under the London Squares and Enclosures Preservation Act of 1906. This was an asphalt playground with trees round the border'. This area is now paved with an obelisk in the middle.
Stonebridge Gardens.  Play park with a large blue snake installed by Free Form in 1981. It is named from a stone bridge that crossed the Pigwell Stream here and marked the boundary between the parishes of Hackney and Shoreditch. It was created after post-war house clearance.
Stairs up to the railway with locked gate
Railway bridge – this bridge on the original North London Line Kingsland Viaduct has had a replacement deck for the Overground line. Under the bridge the road is lowered below the level of the pavements and the surrounding houses to allow taller vehicles to pass under
260 Duke of Wellington. Courage pub used by locals for local events

Holly Street
Holly Street Estate. This was completed in 1968. Its centrepiece was a U-shaped group of maisonettes; plus four twenty-storey system-built towers. In 1993 two of the towers were demolished, and a year programme was begun of low-rise rebuilding and rehabilitation by Levin Bernstein.
Terrace housing 1948 by the Borough Engineer, George Downing
30 Queensbridge Sports and Community Centre

Jacaranda Grove
The road is built on the site of Orchard Cottage, later, in the early 20th infirmary for horses.

Mapledene Road
54 Mapledene and Stonebridge Children’s Centre

Middleton Road
Hackney Pentecostal Apostolic Church. This is in an old Congregational church and has been there since the 1970s. The Congregational church originated in Shoreditch and this building dates form 1838. It is in brick with a stone front. It closed in the late 1940s and taken over by the Pentecostal church who rebuilt the church behind the street front.
Railway bridge. The abutments have been admired. This bridge on the original North London Line Kingsland Viaduct has had a replacement deck for the Overground line. Under the bridge the road is lowered below the level of the pavements and the surrounding houses to allow taller vehicles to pass under

Queensbridge Road
355 Grange Court. This is the only remaining tower of the Holly Road estate - kept for use for elderly tenants.
LMNT Restaurant in what was the Duke of Richmond pub.

Richmond Road
3 Star House, which was previously Cleveland House. Electrical sub station, built to power the electrified railway tracks. This has been a factory and a church. It is now Dalston Department Store with event and gallery space. Powerhouse Church is also based there.
Carriage sidings side north of Richmond Road. These were located in their own section of cutting on the North London Railway, and a few yards of original track survived which before the line was rebuilt.
Dalston Methodist Church. The church was originally in Mayfield Road, to the rear of the present church and  was built by Wesleyan Methodists in 1865. The Minister's wife was killed when a flying bomb damaged the manse and church in 1945. A new church was built on the same site in 1960, but was known as Richmond Road Church.
Road bridge over the railway in a ‘dogleg’s
1 Passing Clouds. Club


Sources
Aldous. Village London
All Saints. Web site
Bridgeworks on the East London Line Extension. Web site
British History On Line. Hackney.
Clarke. Hackney, 
Clunn. The Face of London
Field. London Place Names, 
Hackney Society Newsletter
London Borough of Hackney. Web site.
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Remembers. Web site.
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Robbins. North London Railway 
Sinclair, Hackney That Rose Red Empire
Sinclair. Lights Out for the Territory.
Willatts. Streets of Islington

North London Railway Dalston Junction

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the  north  east quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The line from Broad Street Station – and now from Shoreditch Station – continues north and is met by the line from Stratford from the east and the line to Highbury on the west

Post to the south Dalston


Abbot Street
3 Fitzroy House. Abbot Street Studio is a music, post production and voice over recording studio markets and events held there.

Ashwin Street
This was once known as Beech Street
2 Arcola Theatre Tent
10-16 this studio block fronts on Ashwin Street as a run of former Victorian terraced houses, now joined together. The back of the building was a warehouse/factory and they were joined together the 1960s when it was a community arts centre which closed in the 1980s and the building was squatted
Luxembourg Hall. On the site of the Reeves works, who replaced them here. This was a public hall where dancing classes and amateur dramatics were put on.
18-22 Former premises of Reeves and Son artists' colour manufacturer, here from 1866.  The main part is a late 19th factory, with fourth floor added in 1913. The 'Print House' is an extension of added in 1913 by John Hamilton & Son.  Reeves were suppliers of artists' materials. Manager Henry and Charles Kemp Wild concentrated on cheap paints for schools and beginners and also publishing instruction books. This building is the result of their success. The Education Act of 1870, which created an even greater demand for their products. They continued here until 1948 when they moved to Enfield. The building is decorated with mosaic and mosaic lettering. There is a roof garden where theatrical events take place and the building is home to many small business and artistic enterprises.
Tyer & Co., inventors of the block system of railway signalling had their works b here until the 1960s
24 Arcola Theatre. Founded in 2000 by Mehmet Ergen and Leyla Nazli, Arcola Theatre it is housed in a converted paint factory
Shiloh Pentecostal church.  A former Baptist chapel of 1871 by C. G. Seark & Son, enlarged in 1880.  Front with circular windows, and two porches with large foliage decoration. The Baptists had met in Luxembourg hall until 1868. Shiloh leased it from 1968 and bought it in 1976

Atlas Mews
Granite setts. This was the site and the buildings of a mineral water works in the 19th known as the Atlas Works. The Atlas Glass bottle works was to the west in what was Bath Row in the 19th.  They made black glass bottles. In the 1960s it was a works for Wittamore, glass merchant, beveller and silverer. 

Beechwood Road
This was previously Mayfield Road and also Woodland Road and was built up post Second World War as the Rhodes Estate
Trinity Centre. This was established in Trinity Church Hall as a charity in 1996 providing family development and child care services. It was opened to the public in 1997 after a fundraising campaign.
Holy Trinity Church of England Primary School. The school originally opened before 1842 as St. Philip's National School in Woodland Street leased for 99 years by members of the Rhodes family. In 1880 management was transferred to Holy Trinity and a Site for new school was leased in what was then Mayfield Road. It was reorganised in the 1920s for girls and infants and in 1951 became a voluntary aided junior and infants school
62 Hackney Co-operative Developments is a local community economic development organisation established in 1982 as a not-for-profit, community benefit company

Cumberland Close
Holy Trinity Church. Built in 1878-9 by Ewan Christian. It is a tall, urban church in brick with a central tower and circular turret. It contains some fixtures from demolished St Philip Dalston

Dalston Lane
Much of the eastern end is currently being demolished.
Dalston Junction Station. The station was first opened in 1865 by the North London Railway on its City Extension from Broad Street. It had three island platforms with four through lines going to Camden Town to the west and two joining from Poplar to the east. The entrance was on the south side of Dalston Lane and the station was designed by E.H.Horne. It was a single storey structure built of yellow bricks in a style recognisable as 'NLR'. Track level buildings were constructed of wood and included a refreshment room. The service from Poplar ended in 1944 and the tracks were lifted in 1966 and in 1967, the platform buildings were replaced by small shelters and in 1970 most of the buildings were pulled down leaving   fragments of wall in Amhurst Road. A booking office remained at ground level with arched doorways beneath which were parts of stairways, offices and the old ladies waiting room. These all had their original vertical wooden panelling. A large British Railways maroon name board, remained on the wall at the end of platform 6. The line to Broad Street and the station closed in 1986 by which time only two tracks remained, overgrown and derelict and a scrap yard was sited on the unused platforms. The station was rebuilt for the London Overground in 2005 and it was opened by the Mayor of London in 2010. This became a service to West Croydon, as well as New Cross, and also Crystal Palace.
Signal box.  A wooden box survived until 1985 at the southern end of the platforms.  This was Dalston Junction No.2, erected in 1872 when the fourth line was from Broad Street. The box had a thirty-five lever frame but when No.1 box closed in the 1900s sixty levers were installed which had been built at North London's Bow works. It went out of use in 1979. It is said that a natural spring here encouraged one of the signalmen to cultivate watercress beside the line.
Signal posts which had been specially constructed in 1886 to be visible above the Forest Road bridge were removed in 1956.  These were believed to be the tallest signal posts in the country, and were 60 feet high. These were replaced by colour light signals
Subterranean track bed between Dalston Junction and Western Junction.
Dalston Square. Dalston C.L.R. James Library & Archives. New library and archive opened in 2012 and named after Trinidadian author C.L.R.James, the name transferred from another, closed, library.
11 William Hill bookmakers. This was the Railway Tavern which can be seen on a curved panel at the top corner of the building. The publican of 1899-1939 Henry Aris has his name H. J. ARIS on a curved frieze above the corner entrance
12 Gaumont Cinema. This opened as Dalston Circus in 1886 but was not successful and became a variety theatre called variously North London Coliseum Theatre, North London Coliseum and Amphitheatre, North London Coliseum and National Hippodrome and London Coliseum and National Amphitheatre. In 1898 it was re-built by Wylson & Long and re-opened as the Dalston Theatre of Varieties. In 1920 Biocolor Picture Theatres bought it and it was redesigned as a cinema by F. Edward Jones, assisted by Robert Cromie. The main entrance remained part of the original Dalston Circus building.  In 1927 it was over by Gaumont British Theatres and in 1951 re-named Gaumont Theatre.  It closed in 1960. It became a warehouse for Tesco, then a car auction sales room. The front foyer operated as the ‘Four Aces Night Club’ and despite dereliction a nightclub called Roseberry’s 1994 until 1998. It was demolished in 2007 and there is housing on the site
13 Dalston Eastern Curve Garden, completed in 2010, was planted in an area of Hackney that lacked public green space. Just off the busy Dalston Lane, this secret garden is hidden behind hoarding next to the Hackney Peace Carnival mural. Visitors enter through a wooden doorway into a peaceful haven. The garden, built on a disused railway line derelict for over 30 years
Peace Mural. This was painted in 1985, and created by Ray Walker.  It is based on the 1983 Hackney Peace Carnival. The procession has just gone past Navario Mansions. The London Muralists for Peace was commissioned to create murals with the theme ‘Peace through Nuclear Disarmament’. Ray Walker died before it could e started and Mike Jones and Ann Walker completes it. The mural was opened in 1985 by Tony Banks, then chair of the GLC
16-22. two pairs of three-storey houses with shops over their front gardens.
17-19 Hackney Asian Association’s premises are now owned by Hackney Council for Voluntary Services.
19a The Dalston Picture Theatre opened in 1910 and closed in 1914. It was operated by Louis Silverman and was possibly a shop conversion
20 is the world's first urban farming hub - a workspace, cafe.  It has aquaponic micro fish farming, an Indoor allotment, a rooftop chicken coop and a polytunnel
24-30 Elise Centre. East London Innovation and Social Enterprise Centre. This is the old CLR James Library, now replaced. It was built in 1957-9 by Burley & Moore. The original library was designed by Edwin Cooper in 1913 but was bombed in 1945
27 Tyssen Arms pub. Long gone.
27d Mission of Faith Gospel Ministries granite kerbstones around the property and a cast-iron manhole cover, set in a York-stone surround
38 Free Form Arts Trust
were originally in this property until 1997
39-41 Cape House Hostel. This is the old police station with a section house behind built it 1913.  The Kingsland Police Station was moved here in 1872 and the red brick building on site built in 1914 by J.D.Butler. This closed in the 1990s
Dalston Lane ‘Slips’, mature trees in a roadside verge
46-52 terrace of three-storey, 19th houses which now have projecting single storey shops
55 the property is a good inter war commercial building. Granite setts to the cross-overs n to the front of the property
57 house from 1800. It is three storeys in brick. This was the home of the Free Form Arts Trust founded by Martin Goodrich. They are now based in Richmond Road.
Saint Saviours, an iron church, was constructed in 1874 on the site which was later occupied by Saint Bartholomew’s Church and Vicarage
Saint Bartholomew. The church originated in an iron church and from 1882 was a chapel of ease for Saint Mark's, Shoreditch. The congregation paid for a permanent building by John Johnson.   It was however closed during the Second World War and it was later used as a storehouse for church fittings. It was demolished by 1980 being exempt from regulation because the church commissioners used ecclesiastical exemption to remove the building from protection. The vicarage which was attached to it could not be demolished and remained.
61b Saint Bartholomew’s Vicarage. This was originally attached to the church which had been demolished and was built to the designs of J Johnson, in 1884-85.This was a ruin for many years but was restored as housing in the 1990s.
65 Hackney Connextions. Youth careers and information run by the local authority. It includes Prospects which dates from 1995 and privatisation of the youth careers service and now runs local authority and other services throughout the UK and beyond.
90 Donaldsons. With sign and clock below the gables.
92 This is owned by the Red Cross and a large Red Cross is painted on the side to Graham Road as well as red cross motif stained glass to the porch. It was Hackney and Stoke Newington Orthopaedic and Tropical Clinic which opened in 1919. In 1921 a Tropical Diseases branch opened at the request of the Ministry of Pensions and closed in 1923. The Orthopaedic Clinic closed in 1924, no longer required by the Ministry of Pensions.  It continued to be used by the Red Cross and also until 2012 by Rhythms of Life International a charity for homeless people. It is now used by the British Red Cross as the Hackney Destitution Resource Centre to provide services for asylum seekers and refugees and Hackney Volunteer Centre.
94 a four- five-storey house built of brick it has a prominent chimney stack and a five-storey tower
96 The Unity Club. Hackney Trades Council and Labour Party. Now in other use
Lebon Corner. Allegedly the name of the junction with Queensbridge Road

Eastern Junction
This was the side of Dalston Station that was closed in 1944 and was the site of platforms 5 and 6. These were fenced off and leased to a car breaking. The line branched off under Graham Road to meet the line to Stratford and access the goods yard at that junction. It remained in use to goods traffic until 1965.
Kingsland Depot. Opened by the East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway in 1851 for the coal trade being brought from the docks. They handled general goods from 1870. Closed in 1972.
Signal box.

Forest Road
Rail Bridge
1a William Gee Warehouse and factory for the shop fronting on Kingsland Road
 

Kingsland
Kingsland was the name of this area and there have been claims that it was ‘the king’s land’ and that there was a hunting lodge somewhere. This part of Hackney belonging to the Crown when the manor was held by the Bishop of London. In the 18th Kingsland was bigger than Dalston.  Kingsland Green was built over to local protests in the 1880s.


Kingsland High Street
Route of Roman Ermine Street. 
18 Kings Arms. A pub was here in 1636 and may have been called the Prince’s Arms.  It was then a building which fronted on to Kingsland Green.  It became a Charrington’s house but in 1993 was sold to Charles Wells Brewer. It closed in 2008 having been compulsorily purchased for the Overground Railway extension and was demolished in 2009
57 Kingsland Station. A station was first opened here in 1850 by the East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway. North London Railway. It was a very plain two storey building with steps down to the platforms. It closed in 1865 when the Broad Street extension was built and instead a triangular junction joined the lines from the east and west and Dalston Junction station opened on the southern tip replacing Kingsland. Kingsland station was then in use as shops and survived until it was demolished and a new station built in the early 1980s.  It reopened in 1983, opened by GLV Transport Committee chair, Dave Wetzel. It replaced Dalston Junction in 1986 when the line from Broad Street closed. It now stands between Hackney and Canonbury on the North London Line
Dalston East Junction signal box. This stood Between the converging lines from Broad Street and Kingsland but has now vanished without trace.
Kingsland Shopping Centre. This was opened as Dalston Cross Shopping Mall in 1989 on the site railway goods yards off the Eastern Curve railway line.
37 The Kingsland, Irish pub 
41 Frederick Cooke jellied-eel shop. Closed in 1997. Used to have live eels in a tray next to the street which came from Ely. Became the Shanghai Chinese Restaurant but keeps its traditional frontage.  It was clearly once part of a much grander store along with 43, used as a furniture shop in the 1920s.
42 Amherst Hall was on the east side north corner of Abbot Street with its entrance in Stanborough Passage. It was designed by Frank Matcham for F. W, Purcell who built and operated it from 1908 until at least 1915. It was equipped with a Western Electric (WE) sound system in 1930, and by 1934 it was operated by Amhurst Pictures Ltd and by 1937 by Watford Amusements.  It closed in 1940 having been bombed. It never re-opened and was used for a while to store furniture from bombed out homes. By 1951 it was a theatrical store and it was demolished in the late-1960’s to build a new Woolworth’s, later a burger bar and electrical stores are on the site.
44 Fairyland was a small early cinema, most likely a shop conversion, which was located next to the much larger Amhurst Hall. It was operated prior to the Cinematograph Act, which when that was introduced in 1910, the conditions closed it down. Demolished possibly in the late-1960’s, in 2009 a Curry’s electrical shop operates from the site.
59 Railway Tavern
Subterranean track bed between Dalston Junction and Western Junction. Used as a car scrap yard in the 1980s


Kingsland road
Kingsland Leper Hospital was founded about 1280 to the south and west of the junction of Kingsland Road and Dalston Lane. From 1549, it was run as an outhouse of St Bartholomew’s Hospital. Patients were sent to Kingsland with a variety of diseases. The hospital fronted on Kingsland Road with a barn behind. By the 18th it was for women only. The hospital was rebuilt in the 1720s. Rising costs forced it to close in 1760.
The hospital Chapel lay to the north of the hospital and probably dated from its foundation, and it became known as St Bartholomew’s. After the hospital closed, local people petitioned to keep the chapel. It lasted until 1846. The Star and Garter pub is supposed to have its north door in the same position as the north door of the chapel
520-522 in 1906, William Goldstein- an East European immigrant- changed his name to William Gee and opened a trimming shop with £2 worth of stock. His business expanded and he moved to 520 Kingsland Road. Although the company is predominantly wholesale supplying manufacturers and hospitals, bridal wear and corporate wear suppliers, the shop has always served the local trade. The factory and warehouse are behind the shop.
525 Brewery Tap.  An old Watney’s house, established before 1881.
538-540 Plaza Cinema.  Opened as the Kingsland Imperial Picture Theatre in 1912. In early 1933, it was closed, and re-opened as the Plaza Cinema. It was operated by Kingsland Pictures Ltd. And t closed in 1959.  The building was converted into a shop and the upper parts were in use as a Snooker Hall. It was demolished in 2009
539 Star and Garter pub, now a pawnbroker.
578 Hysteria Bar
588 Visions Video Bar
600 Crown and Castle.  Italianate building probably dating from the 1870s. A pub with this name was here in 1861 and a previous pub here may have been the Cock & Castle taken over in 1818 by Combe’s Brewery from Dickinson & Co. of Clerkenwell.  It became a Watney house, and known for music (I personally saw a band here playing on the hot water bottle and rubber duck). It closed in 2006 and now sells noodles. The crown ands castle signage remains on the street corner frontage.
Kingsland Waste market – this was between Forest Road and Middleton Road. It is on Saturdays and began as a tool market. It now sells household items, ornaments, hardware tools, clothes and household parts

Martel Place
This is on the site of the North London Line’s Eastern Curve and leads to Dalston shopping city's car park

Queensbridge Road
451 Victoria pub
Granite setts in alleyway

Ramsgate Street
Kinetica 14 storey housing block

Tyssen Street
Springfield House is the former Shannon Furniture factory of 1903-5 by Edwin Sachs.  Steelwork encased in concrete, brick-faced, with heavy eaves. It was also occupied by Marconi Wireless Telegraph Company from 1906.

Sources
Abbott Street Studio. Web site
Aldous. Village London
Arcola Theatre. Web site
Bridgeworks on the East London Line Extension. Web site
British History On Line. Hackney
Cinema Treasures. Web site
Clarke. Hackney,
Clunn. The Face of London
Dalston Junction Station. Wikipedia Web site
Field. London Place Names,
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
Holy Trinity School. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site.
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Railway Record
London Remembers. Web site.
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Lost Pubs Project. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Robbins. North London Railway
Signal Box. Web site
Sinclair. Hackney. That Rose Red Empire
Trinity Centre. Web site
Willatts. Streets of Islington
Wright. A Journey Through the Ruins

North London Railway - Balls Pond Road

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(For reasons of space – these very intensive inner city squares will be divided into quarters – the  north  west quarter for this square.)

North London Railway
The line from Dalston Junction station curves north westwards to meet the line from the east coming from Kingsland station

Pigwell Brook
The Pigwell Brook rises in this area and flows eastwards

Post to the east Dalston Junction
Post to the north Mildmay

Ardleigh Road
Originally called Enfield Road North. It is part of the area leased from the de Beauvoir family by Rhodes and subsequently developed in the 1830s. The diagonal direction of the road dates to the first layout of the estate.


Balls Pond Road
The road is said to have been named after a pond owned by a John Ball who in the 17th ran the Salutation or the Boarded House which provided for bull baiting and duck hunting. The pond itself was to the west of this square
9-19 is a mid 20th building with wide glass windows. Formerly occupied by Paul Separates, it is now a branch of Leyland Specialist Decorators Merchants
22-28 Willow Place. Built around 1863
22 Willow Tree pub. Closed in 2007 and now housing
31 has a cast iron lattice front porch screen
Anchor Mews. Buildings in what was the yard of the Anchor pub.
39 The Anchor Pub. Now in housing plus a Polish shop. The name Anchor can just be made out on a gable at the top of the building.
47a Maberley Chapel This was an independent chapel.  Built in the early 1820s it is in brick with a stucco front where there are stone steps, wrought iron railings, and two wooden entrance porches. On the front is written "MABERLY CHAPEL”. Inside there are galleries supported by cast-iron columns. The chapel takes its name from William Maberly, on whose land it was built. It is now an artist’s studio.
School behind the chapel built in 1844 in brick. Above the doorways is written "Boys" and "Girls".
54 The Marquis of Salisbury pub. This was known as The Salisbury in the time before it closed.
72 Fergie’s Pub was one called the Entertainer but was the Greyhound originally. Now closed and converted to flats
81-119 Elizabeth Place built 1826
100-98 Cutlers’ Terrace. This is in the site of Cutlers Company almshouses with an entrance which went through to the almshouses which lay at right angles to the road.  There were twelve houses for twenty-four inmates, under the management of the Court of Assistants of the Cutlers. Disposed of as being uninhabitable 1964.
108-124 Mildmay Place built 1830
100 Asylum of Metropolitan Benefits Estates. Almshouses.  The Metropolitan Benefit Societies Asylum was established in 1829 and supported by voluntary contributions. It was intended to 'afford an asylum for the reception of aged and infirm members of Friendly Societies.' once enough money was raised these almshouses were built. The foundation stone was laid in 1836 by the then Lord Mayor. It lines three sides of a large forecourt in a two-storey stock brick Tudor block by S.H. Ridley. There is a central chapel, now a hall, rebuilt in 1931.  It later expanded with two side wings affording for 64 couples. The MBSA retained voluntary contributions mainly from the Independent Order of Odd Fellows. It later became a Charity and a Housing Association. There is now a new Warden's residence and office, a central community block and 13 two room flats for residents
119 Duke of Wellington pub. 19th pub building.  It claimed to be the first ever pub theatre when it was managed by playwright J.M.Neill in the 1960s.  This was The Sugawn Theatre which got its name from the sugawn chairs imported from Co Clare. The theatre was preceded by The Sugawn Kitchen, noted for live Irish music.  In the 1990s it was a lesbian pub which also sold books. It was refurbished as a gastro pub in 2006
121- 157 Brunswick Place. Terrace built in 1812. With a pair of houses in the centre with a dated pediment. One of these houses was the Berbo Buckle factory.
159 Montgomery House. A four storey warehouse used as a costume studio,
Bookbinders Provident Institution. This is now the site of the catholic church. In 1830 at The Bookbinders' Pension Society was formed and they built The Bookbinders' Provident Asylum, in 1843. Extra wings were built as the charity grew.  Closed 1927. The Bookbinders site became Deffries Furniture Transport later nationalised as British Road Services
Our Lady and St. Joseph.  Designed by W.C. Mangan and built 1962-64 in brick and stone with a central tower.  It is on the site of the Bookbinders Asylum which has later become a British Road Services depot. The mission was founded by Fr William Lockhart of the Order of Charity (Rosminians) in 1855, and a church was built in Tottenham Road. Plans for a new church in 1962 were prepared for a different site in 1962. The doorways have reliefs of Alpha and Omega and the Holy Family possibly by Michael Lindsey Clark. There is also a floor mosaic of the Flight into Egypt and a painting of the Blessed Cyprian Michael Iwene Tansi. There is an unpainted statue of St Patrick and another of St Joseph with a statue by Michael Lindsey Clark. A stone statue of the Virgin Mary on a stone altar with brass tabernacle is also by Clark.
Kerridge Court.  Block of council flats opened in 1950 by Mrs. Kerridge. There is a plaque to Lt. Commander Roy Kerridge who died trying to defuse a parachute mine in 1940 in Wright Road


Bentley Road
Cobbles
Bentley House. Head office and rear part of Leyland Specialist Decorators Merchants


Boleyn Road
41a Aztec Court
Subterranean track bed between Dalston Junction and Western Junction.


Buckingham Road
Our Lady and St.Joseph’s Roman Catholic Primary School. The school opened in 1855 as Kingsland Roman Catholic School on the ground floor of a church. It was financed by voluntary contributions receiving a parliamentary grant by 1871. It remained an all-age voluntary aided school until older children began to attend Cardinal Pole School in 1959. The Primary school was renamed Our Lady and St. Joseph by 1976. The infants' school is a single-storey brick building of 1971-2.  The junior school and nursery date from 1989, and has a clock turret.  There was a carved crucifixion facing De Beauvoir Road which came from the church which was here. In the grounds is an environmental area with a pond.
Kingsgate Estate. This housing development was built in 1958-61 by Frederick Gibberd and G L Downing, the Hackney Borough Engineer. There are three terraces of maisonettes and block of flats around a central courtyard. Maisonettes are stacked to create the impression of a four-storey building with blue and mustard panels on the fronts. The external staircases are made from intricately cast concrete. There is an eleven-storey tower
Kingsgate Hall. Part of the Kingsgate Estate and currently in use as a playgroup and nursery.


Culford Mews
2 modern live work unit house by Free Form Architects
2a modern house by Free Form Architects built around a tiny courtyard
8a modern houses by Free Form Architects
9-10 J.T. Batchelor, old established leather and hide merchants
7 Wesley King, motor mechanics specializing in Rolls and Bentley
8b Pottery. Kate and Graham Malone had a plot used as a plant hire and window cleaning business at the back in Brunswick Terrace to build a studio and turned it into a potters’ cooperative. Five self-employed potters work here and it has the biggest studio kiln in central London.


Culford Road
157 Sterilised Milk Co. Later became Home Counties Dairies, supplying sterilised milk and then became United Dairies and then Unigate.
178 Sterilised Milk Co. Headquarters. The firm was begun by a Mr Lane around 1900. There was a well on these premises, 450 feet deep, sunk in 1922 and sealed in 1948.

Docwra's Buildings
This is named after Thomas Docwra the building contractors, and, in the 19th, well borers. Warehouse style buildings here were used as their depot dating from the 1840s were demolished in the 1960s. Docwra themselves had left in 1922. The site is now modern housing.

Eagle Mews
Modern housing in closed mews area off the Balls Pond Road


Hawthorn Close
London Borough of Islington flats built 1970


Kingsbury Road
Jewish Cemetery. Formerly known as the West London Reform Jewish Cemetery. It was established in 1843, as the first cemetery of the West London Synagogue been formed in 1840 following a schism with the Bevis Marks Synagogue but also with some Askenazi. It was hit by a landmine in the Second World War and has suffered vandalism. Goldsmid, Monefiore and Mocatta are among the eminent names of families buried here. They include Baronet Henriques, founder of the Daily Telegraph and University College London. Also there is David Mocatta Architect who designed Brighton Railway Station, viaducts and stations on the London, Brighton and South Coast Railway. The cemetery was in use until 1951. West London Synagogue, who owned it tried to sell it for housing which led to is a campaign amongst the Jewish community to stop it.
10 St. Jude and St. Paul Primary School.


Kingsland Green
At Kingsland in the 18th a small green on the west side of Ermine Street but in Islington at the junction of Boleyn Road, going to Newington Green and to Ball's Pond Road to  Islington. The parish boundary was southward through the north door of the leper chapel. On the west side was a farm belonging to Highbury manor, held by a London merchant. The green was cut back on its south side  in 1807 and given an ornamental railing. The Green was built over to local protests in the 1880s.
The Pigwell Brook had its source on Kingsland Green and followed the line of the modern Graham Road
Harrington’s Nursery here in the mid-19th
British Orphan Asylum founded here in 1827, moving to Clapham in 1834
Telephone exchange


Kingsland Passage
Town Guide Cabinet. Described by Patrick Wright. This has now gone. (pity).
Warehouse converted  in 1992 to Levitt Bernstein Ltd architects offices.


King Henry’s Walk
Called this because Mildmay was said to be part of a royal hunting area
King Henry’s Walk Electricity Sub Station
7 The Warehouse, flats in old building
8 Order of the Ursulines of Jesus opened 1970. The Congregation of the Ursulines of Jesus is an international religious order founded in 1802.
9 Chorley Memorial Hall. Built 1937 for the North East Gospel Mission founded by William Chorley. An annex of 1953 was the North East London Gospel Mission.
King Henry’s Walk Garden. The map of 1859 shows open space here and later it seems to have been a timber yard although surrounded with. It is thought that by 1858 the site was occupied by Thomas Docwra & Son. Later it was owned by Islington Council and was laid out as a park but this suffered from vandalism and had to be closed. In 2005 the Friends of King Henry's Walk Garden volunteer group was formed to manage the new garden.
11 William Hands lived here from about 1870 until his death. He and one of his sons operated hot press printers from here. In 1866 it was the home of artist Frederick Slocombe.
28 King Henry’s Walk Care Home
31 home of Charles Slocombe
36 Home of Alfred Socombe
Almshouses of Worshipful Company of Dyers. These were William Lee's and John Peck's almshouses, then in Bethnal Green and belonging to the Dyers' Company. Moved here they were built in 1840-1 north of the Tylers' almshouses. They consisted of a two-storeyed symmetrical block of brick designed by S. S. Teulon in Gothic style as 10 houses and a central hall or chapel. This was his first important commission. In 1850-2 Teulon added another 16 houses to rehouse Tyrwhitt's and West's almshouses. They were demolished 1938 and the almshouses moved to Crawley in Sussex, where they remain.  Tudor court is now on the site
Tylers and Bricklayer’s Almshouses. Rhodes was a past Master of the Company when it was decided to built these almshouses in an area of nursery gardens and brickfields in which he was active in development. Designed by William Grellier in 1836 and added to in 1838. Land in front of the almshouses and fronting on the road was developed to provide an income for the almshouses. Demolished 1937 and the land bought by the Board of Guardians and Trustees for the Relief of the Jewish Poor.
Tudor Court. Built on the land on which the Tylers almshouse had been. Bought by Islington council in 1952 and flats built. .also on the site of the Dyers almshouses
St. Jude’s Schools. Thos was a new school opened in 1855 to replace a school in Mildmay grove. Burnt down in 1925 and rebuilt. Junior Mixed stayed in the school here. The school now has its front onto

Mildmay Grove South
106 The Earl of Radnor was previously known as The Radnor Arms, it has now been converted to flats.


Stamford Road
28 De Beauvoir Arms later became the Trolley Stop. Closed and now flats


Tottenham Road
This was originally Tottenham Grove
Playle House. Job Centre
42-56 Smiths of Clerkenwell. Metal Centre. J. Smith & Sons was established in 1780 at a site in Clerkenwell, London. They were clock makers but demand for the large clocks they specialised in, declined dramatically. However By this time the business had become a major player in the purchasing of raw materials from all over the world. This business expanded rapidly and a network of service centres was opened. In 1968 Delta PLC, acquired Smiths and the name of the business was changed to Smiths Metal Centres Ltd. In 1998, Delta PLC was restructure Smiths was bought by its management team. Today, Smiths is one of the UK's largest stockholders
Our Lady and St.Joseph.  The church was first built here. The mission had been founded by Fr William Lockhart of the Order of Charity (Rosminians) in 1855, and a chapel was opened in Culford Road. In 1856 a warehouse in Tottenham Grove was converted by W. W. Wardell into a church above a school. The building was later remodelled by E. W. Pugin but was demolished in the early 1960s when a new church was built in Balls Pond Road
De Beauvoir Primary School.  This was opened as Tottenham Road Board School in 1874. It Closed after 1938 and was replaced by De Beauvoir School. De Beauvoir was originally for juniors and infants and became a primary school in 1993. Thu us a London School Board building of the type developed from the 1870s, with E. R. Robson's buildings in the tradition of Philip Webb.  It consists of two buildings on a cramped site; the earlier one with three big gables and tall chimneys.


Western Junction Site
There is a subterranean track bed beneath Dalston Lane, Kingsland High Street and Boleyn Road at one time used as car scrap yard. On the west side was separate tunnel constructed for the 1870s widening and a cement plaque displaying the level to which flood water had risen on 7th July 1916.

Sources
Aldous. Village London
Bridgeworks on the East London Line Extension. Web site
British History On Line. Hackney.
British History On Line Islington and Stoke Newington
Clarke. Hackney, 
Clunn. The Face of London
Field. London Place Names,
Free Form Architects. Web site
GLIAS Newsletter
Hackney Society Newsletter
International Jewish Cemetery Project. Web site
J.T.Batchelor. Web site
King Henry’s Garden. Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site.
London Borough of Islington. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
London Gardens On line. Web site
London Railway Record
Lost Pubs. Web site
Lucas. London
Mitchell and Smith. North London Line.
National Archives. Web site
Our Lady and St. Josephs Church. Web site
Our Lady and St. Josephs School. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Robbins. North London Railway 
Sinclair, Hackney That Rose Red Empire
Sinclair. Lights Out for the Territory.
Smith, Web site
St. Jude and St.Paul's School. Web site
Taking Stock. Web site
Tylers and Bricklayers, Web site
Willatts. Streets of Islington
Wright. A Journey Through Ruins

North London Railway - Mildmay

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North London Railway
The North London Railway turns to the west, via the western curve, and is also joined by the original line of the railway from the east. It then proceeds westwards

Post to the south Balls Pond Road


Barrett’s Grove
30 Church Of God World Fellowship. This was formerly The Welsh Congregational Chapel, Gohebydd Memorial chapel founded in to 1846 and followed by an iron chapel here in 1873. A stone chapel was built in 1884. It was disrupted by war and services ended 1946

Boleyn Road
Neighbourhood Centres. Borough Council offices. Islington’s four local centres to house decentralized day-to-day services n 1982. They new built or converted from existing buildings by Chris Purslow, Borough Architect and looked cheap but approachable. It is mostly open-plan offices, with central gallery and tiny interview rooms and a waiting area opening onto a garden segment. This has now gone.
Mayville Estate built by the London County Council Included Campion House, Southwell House, and Meredith House between 1948 and 1952
148 Arundel Arms public house for Truman Hanbury and Buxton.  . The sign has a portrait of Thomas Howard 21st Earl of Arundel (1585-1646). Closed 2006 and demolished 2013
68 Cholmeley Boys Club. This is a 19th mission building designed by Herbert O Ellis in 1898 for St Mark’s Church. The parish of St Mark’s had close links with Highgate School, founded by Sir Roger Cholmeley in 1565. The school set up a mission in what was seen as a deprived area of London. The elevation on Boleyn Road is in red brick with a first floor bay window and cast iron rainwater pipes. There is a plaque which says THIS STONE WAS LAID BY LT COL THE RT HON HORATIO D DAVIES MP. LORD MAYOR OF LONDON ON THE 5TH DAY OF NOVEMBER 1898. REVD A B SANDERS MA VICAR OF ST MARK’S, DALSTON. W NORETON? PHILLIPS. THOMAS J RUSSELL, CHURCHWARDENS. HOLLIDAY AND GREENWOOD CONTRCTORS. HERBERT O ELLIS ARCHITECT. The building was originally used as a Sunday School, mission hall, working men’s club and soup kitchen.
Mildmay Place
190 The Woodman. Now flats.
Bradbury Street
3 Bradbury Street Workspace. Small workspaces and jazz bar in what was the Youth Enterprise Centre.  Designed in 1997 by Hawkins Brown as a youth a training centre in a white rotunda at the end of a rehabilitated terrace.


Crossway
Once called Cock and Castle Lane
Hammam. Turkish Bath

Gillett Street
In 1993 Hackney Cooperative Development commissioned Collective Building Design to produce sketches for a town square in Gillett Street and then in 1997 work was done on a Dalston Town Centre area feasibility study by Stock Woolstencroft.  This led, in 1998, Hackney Council’s designation of the Gillett Street car park as the future town square for Dalston.  In 1999 ten market pod kiosks were built along the south side of the car park and also a project to redevelop a factory at 11 Gillett Street to create Dalston Culture House. Macdonald Egan, had recently bought derelict a furniture factory Stamford Works and eventually in 2001 the Gillett Square Partnership was formed and outline plans developed
11 Dalston Culture Centre. New home for the Vortex Jazz Club.
Stamford Works. Workplace units and housing.

King Henrys Street
Mayville Estate built by the London County Council Included Webster House built between 1947 and 1952.
Conrad House. Twelve storey London County Council block, 1960s

King Henrys Walk
57 Shop which was once a bake house with an oven in the basement. It opened in 1863 when it was 6 St Jude’s Place.  The baker in 1867 was a German, Adam Hexamer.  Later it was called King Henry’s Bakery and owned by Simon Mill also a German.  In 1907 the baker was John Jacobi.  It was a bakery until 1944. And then between 1951-82 a builders and printers
Mildmay Lodge. Three houses built b1855 by Alexander Dick Gough of Kentish rag stone in random rubble.  The lodge is at the front and the rear buildings were used as a school. It has been speculated that the front onto this road was the master’s house

Matthias Road
This was once called Coach and Horses Lane
1-3 The Army and Navy. A 1930s pub by A E Newell for Trumans. It has a wedge-shaped exterior in brick and stone. On the corner is a stone panel with the pub name and the Truman eagle. On the parapets right and left is lettering: 'TRUMAN'. Iside is panelling with lettering in gold advertising Truman's range of beers; plus TRUMAN'S lettering in a mirror.
Anvil House. This is now Travis Perkins. Huge building with an Anvil above the fascia. This was Smith & Sons. Builders merchants
48 The Lawns, housing managed by Hanover HA for older people. Flats built 1975
69 New Coach and Horses pub closed and converted to flats. Plaque saying ‘Reid and Company Entire’. The previous pub was here from at least 1720
Mayville Estate. London County Council flats with streamlined balconies. They include Patmore House and Congreve Houses built in 1949 and Bronte House built in 1953, Skelton House 1954,. Gay, Waller and Sewell Houses built 1956. All these houses are named after writers,
Hewling Estate. Plain five storey blocks. Built 1938 by Howes & Jackman, for Stoke Newington Council, between Matthias and Howard Roads. It is made up of Hewling and Matthias Houses. A third block was destroyed by a Second World War bomb
Matthias Road Board School. Opened in 1884 by the London School Board and partly destroyed in Second World War bombing.
Newington Green Primary School. Building opened in 1951 with juniors and infants separate.
89-105 This was Keppel Row, since demolished. It included 103 Henry Keat, makers of hunting horns.
Factory Children’s Centre.
The Factory Community Project was an idea of 1973 from Islington Voluntary Action Council and architect, Simon Kaplinsky. In 1973 the building was derelict having been a piano factory, an ink factory, a mail order warehouse and as an air raid/fire wardens lookout in two world wars. The playground site was a print works and the nursery site to the rear was a garage for spray painting. In 1975 Islington Council,  with Home Office approval, converted it to the Factory Community Centre. The Childrens Cenre is part of it.

Mildmay Grove North
St.Jude’s Church. This is an Anglican church designed in 1855 by Alexander Dick Gough, and enlarged in the 1880s by Edwin Clare. It is in Kentish ragstone and random rubble. There is a tower of four stages with carved figures at the corners and a broach spire. The church was known for missionary work and for supporting missions. The vicar 1864 -1873 was William Pennefather, a well known churchman and mission preacher; he and his wife Catherine also wrote hymns


Mildmay Road     
86 Woodville Arms. Now housing             

Queen Margaret’s Grove
National School in the buildings at the rear of Mildmay Lodge and connected to St.Jude’s Church

St.Jude Street
2 Railway Tavern. This was once called Old Henry’s.
St. Jude's Street Garden. Playground and shrubs replacing housing which backed onto the railway

Woodville Road
Lydgate House and Emerson House built in 1953 and part of the Mayville Estate

Wordsworth Road
St Matthias. Huge church which was the spearhead of the High Church campaign in Hackney and Stoke Newington, led by Robert Brett, and funded by Richard Foster. It was designed by William Butterfield in  1849-53. It has a towering front with a steep saddleback roof for a tall tower and is built of plain brick . It was damaged by bombing in the Second World War and the 19th fittings were destroyed.  Post-war repairs, completed in 1954, replaced the roof in plain timber .
St Matthais Church of England Primary School. Opened in 1849.


Sources
British History Online. Web site
Clarke. Hackney and Stoke Newington
Clunn. The Face of London

Factory Centre. Web site
Field. London Place Names
GLIAS Newsletter
Hammam Web site
London Borough of Hackney. Web site

London Borough of Islington. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Robinson. Lost Hackney
Willatts. Streets of Islington

North London Railway Newington Green

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North London Railway
The North London Railway continues its route westwards

Post to the east Mildmay


Mildmay Grove North
Laid out in 1850. Long terraces across the deep crevasse of the North London Railway
37 Colony Mews 5 houses in what was 37h Mildmay Grove – this is part of a complex of old industrial buildings and offices.  In the early 20th there was a laundry here and earlier some gardens.

Mildmay Grove South
2a Mount Refuge.  First Born Church of God.
40 ½ modern glass and metal house a sequence of light filled rooms with modern furniture. By Philip Johnson and Leonie Milliner 2007
Railway Wall. The wall part of a former gent’s urinal and once boasted a painted horse, removed by Islington Council. It has been replaced by a boy with a flower.  It has been claimed that this area marks the last remains of the Newington and Balls Pond Station.

Mildmay Park
Part of the estate which belonged to the Halliday/Mildmay family but sold off for building in the late19th by Sir John Mildmay. The family had had a house since the 17th on the south side of Newington Green. The grounds to the south of it stretched almost to the Balls Pond Road, and it is this area which was developed.
92 Clarendon Pub. This may currently be called The Dissenting Academy, and it was for a while The Nobody Inn.
85n Modern House by Graham Bickley
75a C.L.R.James House. This was 19th Founders Lodge and now the only remains of the Mildmay Mission - the Movement for World Evangelism - where it was used as a home and for retreats. Founders Lodge, Mildmay Centre. This was built for the Mildmay Movement . It is asymmetrical in yellow and red brick.  It is now flats.
Mildmay Park Station .Opened in 1880 On the North London Railway.  It stood on the east side of Mildmay Park at junction with Mildmay Grove North’s. The street buildings were designed by E.H, Horne with entrances in Mildmay Grove and Mildmay Park.  It had ‘Mildmay Park Station’ and ‘North London Railway’ set in cement lettering around the top of the building and an ornamental rail round the roof. It closed in 1934 but the street building stayed in place used as a car repair workshop. It was demolished in 1987. Some parts of the platforms still remain as do the foundations of the over bridge and the street building.

Newington Green Road
Newington and Balls Pond Station.   Opened in 1858 Built by the East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway to connect East London and the Docks with the London and Birmingham Railway at Camden Town. In 1870 when the line was widened from to four tracks the station was replaced by Canonbury Station on a different site. 
59 The Alma. Recently closed and reopened.
98 The Weavers Arms Inn was, probably established in 1716 and rebuilt in the 1820s.
125 The Cellars Edinburgh. Mosaic floor saying ‘Billiards and Saloon Bar’. Formerly the Edinburgh Tavern. There is a Truman box sign above the corner door, possibly 1970s.
Brick boundary wall to the hospital and mission area remains

Newington Green
The Green is mentioned in 1480 and there was a small medieval settlement at Newington Green connected to the City by what is now Essex Road.  It attracted affluent residents in 16th and by the 17th it had become a smart place to live and a number of new houses were built, some replacing older ones. The green was enclosed in 1742 and became an urban square and was given railings. Development followed in the 19th partly replaced by council flats between the wars and after Second World War Bombing. Today the area has a large Turkish population.  The village around the green was once strongly non-conformist. Following the 1662 Act of Uniformity with a sympathetic land owner dissenting clergy came here and Mary Wollstonecraft tried to found a school here.
It is popularly thought that Henry VIII used the area for hunting and that he installed mistresses in a house to the south of the Green. The area does not seem to have been an enclosed forest in the legal sense and thus not available for hunting. Henry Percy, Duke of Northumberland, had a house here and died here in 1537.  At her trial Anne Boleyn claimed to have had a contract of marriage with him and he granted his estates to the King to be handed on to family members.
Mildmay Hall – this was between Mildmay Park and Newington Green Road, south of Newington Green.  This was a Conference Hall for the Mildmay Mission built in 1870 and demolished in 1959. The Deaconess House was attached.
Children’s play area behind Hathersage Court, This is on the site of Mildmay Hall. There is a memorial stone to Pennefather
Mildmay Cottage Hospital. This originally  opened in 1866, was run by the nursing branch of the Mildmay Deaconess Institution, a group of Christian women led by the Vicar of St. Jude's, the Reverend William Pennefather. A new hospital was built in the centre of the compound in 1883 and called the Mildmay Memorial Cottage Hospital. In 1908 ‘Cottage’ was removed from the name. During the Great War the Hospital offered 23 of its beds to the War Office. By 1944 it treated mainly private patients. The Hospital joined the National Health Service in 1948 as part of the Archway Group. It closed in 1958 and was demolished and replaced by a council housing blocks
Hathersage Court. Local authority housing built in the 1960s on the site of the Mildmay Hospital. It is a 6 storey concrete framed block with pre-cast concrete infill panels with an exposed flint aggregate finish.
Besant Court. Local authority housing built on the site of the Mildmay Hospital in the 1950s.. Previously it was the site of the Spring Gardens Inn, built before 1725, Spring Gardens Coffee House by 1765.
9-10 Mildmay House. In 1611 William Halliday, a City Alderman built a house which was inherited by Henry Mildmay and thus it was called Mildmay House. It was later a boarding school and became the Nurses' Home in 1885. Demolished in the 1950s and is partly the site of Hathersage House.
30 Cromwell Lodge, 19th
31-32, a plain pair of houses built around 1809 with later extensions. May be built on the site of Bishop’s Place
The Bishops Palace was here until 1800 and may also be what has said to be .Henry VIII’s hunting lodge.  It may also have been the home of Henry Percy, Earl of Northumberland. A timber-framed building stood here which was probably 16th forming four sides of a courtyard and containing gilded and painted wainscotting. By the time it was demolished, it was called Bishop's Place and was divided into tenements for the poor.
Newington Green Primary School. The school fronts on to Mathias Road but on the Newington Green frontage is a plaque to the girls’ school started here by Mary Woolstonecraft.
35 may be one of six houses built in the 1690s next to a farmhouse belonging to Joan Nubler.
33-34 Mildmay Club. Thin Baroque of 1900 by Alfred Allen; over large segmental pedimented doorway small cupola. Began as Mildmay Radical club in 1888 at 36 Newington Green Road and moved to a newly built clubhouse at. 34 Newington Green in 1893. In 1930 it changed its name to Mildmay club and institute, and became nonpolitical; in the 1950s it staged weekly variety shows
35 behind projecting 19th shop fronts. A double-fronted 18th house – there has been a suggestion it is earlier, 1690, and may incorporate timber from an earlier building.
36-38 houses hidden behind projecting 19th shops. The houses date from the early 19th but may have older cores
39 Unitarian chapel.  This is the earliest active Nonconformist chapel in London. It was built by in 1708 by Edward Hamson, goldsmith, for a congregation established in 1682 It has a 19th front and inside are box pews and monuments. Prominent members included Dr Richard Price, Anne Laetitia Barbauld, William Godwin Mary Wollstonecraft; Samuel Rogers, Dr Andrew Pritchard
Dissenting academy founded by Charles Morton in 1667 on the site of the Unitarian Church
40-41 Tariro House. Built as a bank in 1892 and used by Barclays. It is now flats and a care home.
41-43 Newington Green Mansions with a spirelet. Built in 1892 on the site of Monte Christo House an 18th mansion
42 The Gate. Restaurant on the ground floor of a block of Housing and health centre. Designed as a Six-storey curved comer tower by Rivington Street Studio's who won a Peabody Trust competition in 1996 for it.  It is on the site of Holland or Olympic House which was a brick house  belonging to the Brownswood estate, possibly dated from  1680 with a timber frame and which contained oak panelling attributed to Grinling Gibbons but years later. Demolished for factory buildings in 1965. The 18th-century iron gates and railings remained and are incorporated in the new buildings.
44-45 China Inland Mission building. Overseas Missionary Fellowship before 1964 called the China Inland Mission is an interdenominational Protestant Missionary society based in Singapore. It was founded in Britain by Hudson Taylor in 1865 and built their headquarters here in 1895 with a 20th baroque screen with arched gate and open colonnade above between blocks of flats. Redeveloped in 2004 as student accommodation by Shaftesbury Student Housing. The remainder of the site to the rear was reconstructed as four blocks of new student housing for City University postgraduate students. The area to the rear is now the Alliance Club Hostel accommodation in reconditioned block.
46 -47 17th buildings likely to have originally been one house, itself one of a pair. The other one was demolished in the 20th for a new frontage to the China Inland Mission. There was originally had a front courtyard with stable blocks on the side.
52 -55 an example of speculative building in London in the 17th. It was built in 1658 and replaced a house, with a garden and orchards.  It may have been built by Thomas Pidcock, and has a façade design introduced from Italy by Inigo Jones. It is said to be London's oldest surviving brick terrace.  The entrance lobby to each of the two inner houses is approached by a central passage now between shops and the end houses probably also had side entrances before adjoining buildings went up.  Between each pair of houses is a tiny light-well to light the staircases. 
54 Home of Richard Price radical thinker and supporter of the French and American revolutions. His home became a centre for dissent.
56-61 shops built in the 1880s. This is the site of Gloucester House at one time the home of Samuel Rogers built in the 17th


Northampton Grove
Floral Place nursery in building at one time called Northampton Works, and used by Consolidated Electrical and other electrical firms.

Petherton Road.
Wide enough to accommodate the course of the New River.  The New River channel had a carriage-way on either side, which accounts for the road's unusual width laid out in the 1860s, following a straight reach of the river, with one slight bend at the present Ferntower Road

Railway
In 1874 a Tunnel from Finsbury Park to Canonbury Station to relieve congestion at Canonbury Junction lines going off to Finsbury Park from NLR
Sources
Clunn. Face of London
Cosh.  New River
Disused Stations. Website
Essex Lopresti.  New River
London Borough of Hackney. Web site
London Borough of Islington. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Robbins. North London Railway
Sugden. History of Highbury,
Thames Basin Archaeological Group. A Survey of Industrial Monuments of Greater London
Willatts. Streets of Islington

North London Railway - Aberdeen Park

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North London Line
The line progresses in a south westerly direction


Post to the west Newington Green


Aberdeen Lane
Originally called Aberdeen Mews
Mulberry Mews. New gated posh housing on site of Cossor and other works now demolished
Aberdeen Centre - The Cossor factory was behind 20A - 24 Highbury Grove and built in 1918 for the mass production of radio sets. In the Second World War work here concentrated on the development of radar.
Aberdeen Lodge, a single storey building used for storage and distribution
Aberdeen House, a four storey 1930s office building
A.C. Cossor Ltd, specialists in radio and electronic instruments.  Cossor had been based in Clerkenwell from 1903. They expanded to Aberdeen Lane in 2928 building Aberdeen Works and a few blocks to the north Cossor House (now Ladbroke) House with a factory behind. They were allegedly the first company to manufacture X-ray tubes in Britain and it is claimed that the world's first radar receiver was made in Highbury Grove. At Highbury early valves went into production in 1922, with a design avoiding the Marconi patents.  In 1924 they introduced their Wuncell range and others followed. Cossor became a public company in 1938, and reorganised in 1945. In 1927, Cossor launched their Melody Maker radio soon to become a centrepiece of British homes. In another milestone was achieved when they became the first company in the U.K. to sell a television set.   In the late 1930s they were was selected by the Air Ministry to build the critical receiving units and operator displays for the Chain Home air defence radar network. This was the first operational radar system in the world. EMI acquired a controlling interest in 1949. Cossor continued to manufacture domestic radio and TV sets after they had ended production of consumer valves – buying in valves and badging them as their own. In the 1930s they designed oscilloscopes and supplied the Navy.  In the 1940s Cossor introduced the first commercial aircraft radar systems but in 1961, they were acquired by American Raytheon with whom they had been associated since the Second World War. In 1962 they moved to Harlow where they remain, as Raytheon.
Hilger and Watts in Aberdeen Works from 1962 when Cossor moved out. They were scientific instrument makers originally based in Clerkenwell. Became part of Rank Precision Instruments. 
Rose Cottage. This is a 19th, brick house surrounded on either side by Aberdeen Works.
3 House by Azman Owens architects. This is a concrete, timber, glass and limestone house, which is modernist, cubist with the planes of structure and textures overlapped and interlocked.
22 House made up of two angular blocks on a thin site. This is the architect, Les Koski of KSR own house.


Aberdeen Park
The area is probably named after George Hamilton-Gordon, 4th Earl of Aberdeen.  Aberdeen Park was laid out in 1853 and building continued until 1864, with additions in the 1930s – including infill for the original central tennis court. Only two entrances were provided into it. In 1938, the Park Estate was acquired by the London Investment and Mortgage Company who sold off the plots and properties until they owned only the roadway. At the Highbury New Park Entrance metal gates are erected in an ornamental flower bed with roads on either side.
Church of the Most Holy Saviour, Described as an “eccentric masterpiece” by William White.  It was built in 1865-66 with funds from Canon Morrice of Salisbury, alongside protests from the Vicar of Christ Church. It was Anglo-Catholic in a very Protestant area.  Henry Layard who discovered Nineveh designed a mosaic here, Betjeman’s family worshipped here when he was a boy. Closed in 1980 but since 1990 it has been the Florence Trust artists' studios instigated by Patrick Hamilton. This offers studio residences and exhibition opportunities to selected artists
6-10 built were built by Islington Council as sheltered housing in the mid-1970s. Some are now privately owned
15 Norman House, one of a row of variegated 19th houses, on the northern edge of the entrance road. This is a half-way house for released prisoners founded in 1959 by Merfyn Turner
16-28 have been combined into one building, the Highbury Centre, formerly the Foreign Missions Club. Established in the nineteenth century to provide economic accommodation for missionaries visiting London, the centre is today a Christian budget hotel.
17 Escuan Lodge, private flats constructed in 1960-61
19 in a Ruskinesque style. A large detached house originally built as the vicarage for St Saviour’s to which it was connected by a path it is now accommodation for people with mild handicaps.
23 Faithfull House
30 convent. Since 1972 this has been the sisters of St. Paul of Chartres. It was previously a girls' day and boarding school run by the Sisters of Our Lady of Zion opened in 1949. By 1960 it had become a mixed school and was closed by 1966
31-41, on the southern rim of the inner circle, built in the 1920s
42-44 a medium-rise housing scheme by Darboume & Darke, 1979-81 with project architects Peter M. Olley and Martin Cornelius. Small houses and flats are piled up like wings to the villas, with pathways over a platform formed by ground-floor garages
70, Aberdeen Court flats built in the 1920s by a speculative builder and the block has balconies and Dutch style gables. It was built on the site of a nursery by the Clinton family.
73 by the same builder as Aberdeen Court and built onto its side and said to have been occupied by the builder
96 Mostyn Lodge, private flats built 1964
106 original lodge house to the estate
110 Beaconsfield Lodge
Newcombe Estate, a group of four blocks of flats owned by the Islington Housing Association and opened by the actress Joyce Grenfell in 1950 – and there is a plaque to her.
Woodlands. A largish block of Council flats built 1964 and within old boundary walls.
Pillar box, this is at the junction with Highbury Grove. Erected 1866-76, to the design of J.W.Penfold. It is hexagonal in cast iron.


Beresford Terrace
Built by 1860
New River. Before 1870 the New River coming south down the line of Petherton road diverged westwards after Beresford Terrace going to St Paul's Road.
2-7, with pretty pierced tympana to the first-floor windows;


Grosvenor Avenue
The New River crossed the road before it was cut back to Stoke Newington Pumping Station in 1914. However, clearly it was removed the line of it was built on only gradually.   Exactly where it crossed maybe the subject of some dispute – although maps of the 1850s show an extremely large gap, infilled by the end of the century, The conduit however crossed the road on a south-west diagonal from the area of now covered by Council flats but a distance to the east of the now defunct Presbyterian church. It crossed to the south side either to 127 or to 139/130a
75 Snooty Fox Pub. This was once the Grosvenor Arms
127 Eve Court. This was built in 1957 and stands on the south side of the road. It clearly marks a break in the earlier terrace.
139 and 139a. These are also newer buildings on the south side of the road in breaking the line of the earlier terrace. It is thought that these were built over what was the garden of 141 in the 1920s. 
141 The New River is thought to have run alongside this property and then turned abruptly to cross the railway. The house was thus given a garden at the side of the aqueduct to compensate for loss of rear garden space. The spot is marked by a black poplar.
Ashfield. Block built by the Metropolitan Borough of Islington in 1949 and named for A.H. Stanley, Baron Ashfield – in 1949 recently retired as Chair of the London Transport Passenger Board
108a Parkchurch. Block built by the Metropolitan Borough of Islington in 1955 and on the site of Highbury Park Presbyterian Church.
Highbury Park Presbyterian Church, 1863 by E. Habershon. The facade remained but had gone now. It was, of a neo-Hawksmoor type, with a low portico.
Spring Gardens. Flats 1970
Station House. This was Canonbury Railway Station House


Highbury Grove
Highbury Grove School. The school was originally an all-boys comprehensive opened in 1967. The founding headmaster was the notorious Dr Rhodes Boyson. It was created from Highbury Grammar School, Barnsbury Boys' School, and Laycock School, as part of a comprehensivisation scheme by the then Inner London Education Authority. It is now a ‘foundation’ school and specialises in teaching music. It has recently been largely and flashily rebuilt.




Highbury New Park
The road and housing to the north of here was developed as an estate from 1850 by Henry Rydon, a tailor and brickfield owner from Finsbury Circus. Rydon, employed Charles Hambridge to work with him. The houses, attractive to mid-19th small business owners, were in brick with carved stone, polychrome brick and tiles for the architectural details and in a wide range of styled. It is wide and leafy with gardens behind
11 Samuel Rhodes School. This is a school for pupils aged between 5 and 16 with moderate learning difficulties.  The Primary department is now elsewhere and the Secondary department moved in September 2009 to a new building here sharing some facilities with Highbury Grove School adjacent.
23 for the builder, Rydon.
60 Gymboree – this is an American pre-school education outfit. The buildings in the centre of the estate and were used as council offices. Presumably it was originally some sort of estate facility.
96 The Athenaeum. A 1960s block of flats stands on the site of the Athenaeum. The original building with an 80-foot brick facade was built in 1864 as an Anglican church- the 'Iron Chapel', but in 1870 became the 'Highbury House of Commons Athenaeum’. From 1928 it was a recording studio for Piccadilly Records and from 1933 became the Highbury Film Studios taken over by Rank in 1946 and in both cases a lot of B movies were made. In the mid-1950s when it was taken over by ITV to make popular shows like Double Your Money, Take Your Pick, Noddy and Sunday Night Theatre. In 1961 Edith was at a live TV show here, taken over by fascist black shirt group shouting ‘Seig Heill’ during the transmission, which was stopped. It was closed and demolished in 1963 
New River. In 1855 Rydon sold the two strips bordering the channel to the New River Company who later erected iron railings to secure the water from trespassers and accidents.


Melody Lane
6-32 Fourteen houses by Julian Cowie set around a landscaped courtyard for London Wharf.



Petherton Road
Houses by a local builder, J. G. Bishop, were built on the Rydon's estate from 1868 to 1872.   There was extensive bombing in the Second World War.
New River The road laid out in the 1860s and was wide enough to accommodate the course of the New River which ran down the centre for much of its length. The channel had a carriage-way on either side. The river was culverted in 1868-70 trees were planted down its length. The road level drops as it passes Grosvenor Avenue and Canonbury Station, and it rises again towards the end of Wallace Road where it joins St. Paul's Road, so the river channel turned, in a loop, to the west. This meant it was running along the 100ft contour as the original construction did along its entire length from Amwell to Islington.
1 white cubical house
5-7 the earliest houses in Petherton Road were built here.

Seaforth Crescent
Local authority housing at the south-east corner of Aberdeen Park estate.  Built in 1982 in the garden of one of the Italianate houses. It is by Darbourne and Dark and the houses are arranged round an open green with 'traces of Tudor gardens and Lutyens ideas'.



Wallace Road
This was once called Douglas Road North.
Canonbury Station.  Opened in 1870 it is now Between Dalston Kingsland and Highbury and Islington on the East London Line, ex- Silverlink North London Line.  The East and West India Docks and Birmingham Junction Railway had opened in 1850 to connect East London and the Docks with the London and Birmingham Railway at Camden Town; it was re-named the North London Line in 1853. An earlier Canonbury station opened in 1858 to the east of the present site and was originally known as "Newington Road & Balls Pond" renamed "Canonbury" before closure.  The original Italianate building was demolished following vandalism. The station has been upgraded as part of the London Overground and in 2007, was refurbished. From 2010, North London Line services were used the newly constructed platforms 3 and 4, and East London Line trains use platforms 1 and 2
New River. When the railway was widened in the 1850s the New River here was being straightened, piped and covered over. Its new pipeline which web down the middle of Wallace Road was incorporated in the rebuilt railway bridge.



Sources
Aberdeenpark. Web site
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Clunn. Face of London
Cosh.  New River
Essex Lopresti.  New River
Highbury Grove School. Web site
London Borough of Islington. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Modern Buildings in Islington. Web site.
Pevsner and Cherry.  London North
Raytheon. Web site
Robbins. North London Railway
Sugden. History of Highbury,
Willatts. Streets of Islington

North London Railway - Canonbury

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The North London Railway continues south westwards


Post to the north Aberdeen Park
Post to the west Highbury Corner

Alwyne Place
At one time listed as Frog Lane
Alwyne Road
Posh houses and on one side gardens back on to the New River.
Abbots Close, enclave of housing built 1955
Alwyne Square
The square now consists of 1950s housing. In 1857 building began on a circle of villas named Canonbury Park Square. The area was owned by the Marquess of Northampton and in 1879 it was renamed Alwyne Square - one of the Marquess's family names. The developer was Charles Hill who had agreed with him to lay out three new roads in the space between Canonbury Tavern and the New River within 21 years extending it to this area in 1857. Hil1 sold his development on to Henry Witten, of 5 Alwyne Road who built the square finishing it in 1863 with 21 large villas.  The leases fell in in 1936 and there were proposals for redevelopment, However much of the area was destroyed by Second World War bombing. The square was rebuilt in 1954 and designed by Western Ground Rents' surveyor Nash.  It is now small flats and pastiche houses. The central square has some chestnut trees and modern railings.
Coach House. The only building remaining from the pre-Second World War estate. It is claimed, by estate agents, to have been the coach house to a big house on the site.


Blair Close
Housing built 1984


Canonbury
Means 'manor of the canons'—that is those of St Bartholomew's, Smithfield, to whom the land was granted in 1253
New River. In what was open fields here the river in its original course  took its last loop, the "Horse Shoe", This was  straightened in 1823 to allow streets to be laid out in the development of Canonbury Fields


Canonbury Park North
Here development was begun in 1837 by Charles Hamor Hill and there are paired villas of the 1840s with gardens and green space. There are also many post-war houses and flats.  Street-names in the area House recall the former manor and its owners the Compton family, the Marquesses of Northampton. Beyond Canonbury Grove were fields until the 1850s

Canonbury Place
The Canonbury. The pub, as the Canonbury Tavern, was in place by 1735 and in 1785 included a tea garden and bowling,  and other games, and was thus used for corporate events, It was rebuilt after 1846


Church Road
A new road built as part of 21st housing. Can’t see a church though.

Clephane Road
Clephane is the name of a member of the Marquess of Northampton’s family

Douglas Road
The area was field until the road was built in the 1850s. Most of the original villas survive but there is post-war infilling as part of the Marquess Road estate, but now incorporated into Darborne & Darke's Marquess Road estate. Originally Douglas Road and Douglas Road North were all one road going to St.Paul’s Road.
New River. The New River here remained an open water-channel and it is now the only section in the Borough of Islington with a continuous stretch of water. The channel was re-dug in the 1970s as part of the park.
40 A modern house slotted into a 20-ft gap between the Marquess pub and the terrace. It is glass fronted by Future Systems, Jan Kaplicky and Amanda Levete who built it in 1993. At the back is a slope of plate glass, forming a triangular envelope with the front wall, which is mostly glass bricks.  Inside, there are metal staircases to three decks and a 'the freestanding service core.

Grange Grove
Part of Frog Lane – the old road from London to Highbury.  It was designed by L. de Soissons Partnership in 1946.  It was part of a rebuilding programme by the Northampton Estate but which did not continue although it did attract the middle classes back to what was by then a run-down neighbourhood

Harecourt Road
This was once called Alma Road

Heaven Tree Close
On the site of works alongside the railway. Advance Stationary Works in the 1950s

Hope Close
This partly lies on the site of the New River’s course as it had looped west, passed under the railway and then looped east to meet up with its course, now the New River Walk on the other side of
St.Paul’s Road.

Marquess Estate
This local authority estates Takes up a corner of Canonbury.  It was mainly drsigned by Darbourne and Darke 1966 - 1976 for Islington Borough Council. It marked Islington’s departure from the high-rise constructed under the London County Council.  Most of it is terrace houses with small gardens but they are piled up in irregular ziggurats over the garages and which still have the disadvantages found in some of the deck-access high rises. It is built in brick with slate hanging. 

New River Walk.
This was opened by Herbert Morrison in 1954. The stretch around Canonbury Grove was restored in 1996-8 by local residents, and has specimen trees and planting

Northampton Park
Terraces built as part of the Marquess Estate. The street-names reflects the former manor owners the  Marquesses of Northampton

St.Paul’s Road
The New River Pathway starts on the opposite side of the road to Wallace Road.
140 Builders Arms.  The pub is now flats
Harcourt United Reformed Church. New building opened 1992
Harecourt Road Congregational Chapel. The church came from Hare Court in the City of London where it has been since the mid 17th. Opened 1857 and designed by E.Habershohn.  Burnt down 1982 – on the east corner of Harecourt Road
The New Crown. Closed

Wallace Road
In the 1870s the railway was widened and the New River was put into pipes and covered over.  A pipeline was put through the railway bridges.  The pre-1870 alignment of the New River can be seen in the line of narrow gardens behind Wallace Walk.  The New River rise again towards the end of the road
1 Hope Villa. This was previously Frankfort Villa.  The New River's pre-1870 alignment is seen in the long narrow garden behind this house which had been built in 1881. Now partly covered by Hope Close

Willow Bridge Road
This lies on part of Frog Lane – the old road from London to Highbury and Laid out like this in the 19th.


Sources
British Listed Buildings. Web site
Clunn. Face of London,
Cosh.  New River
Cosh. Squares of Islington
Essex-Lopresti. New River
London Borough of Islington. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Pevsner and Cherry. London North
Sugden. Highbury,
Thames Basin Industrial Archaeology Group. Report
Willatts. Streets of Islington
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