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Hither Green
Blashford Street
SMGC lamppost
Brownhill Road
Site of Priory Farm. Signs of a moat there, so it could have been an ancient site.
Catford School buildings
Elmer Road /Laleham Road.
6.41 3rd v2 in London. 75 houses destroyed 11 people killed in 8-12 5-14
Elmer Road,
Rushey Green Marks and Spencer destroyed, Times, Colliers, etc.
Honley Road
SMGC lamppost
Laleham Road
77 Dartmouth Pub. used to be ‘Dartmouth Arms’. There is a replica of the coat of arms of the Legge family, the Earls of Dartmouth and Lords of Manor of Lewisham since 1673, Open tower, iron work, chimneys. Note the ceiling in The saloon - all that is left of the original interior.
Mountsfield Park
Old Charlton Athletic Ground. Used by Charlton A.F.C. in the 1920s as a training ground, before they moved to .Charlton/Added to it. And more in 1935.
Redfern Road
Solar Heated Housing - Lewisham's less monumental, friendlier public housing of the 1970s. Three-storey terraces of twenty- nine flats, linked by glazed staircases. Their special feature is partial solar heating, one of its first large-scale applications. Planned from 1973, built in 1978-81 by Royston SummerAssociates for Lewisham. . An interesting experimental housing scheme. This was the largest solar installation of its kind in the world when it was originally designed by the architects Royston Summers, in association with Julian Taylor, Borough Architect of the London Borough of Lewisham. The development was completed in March 1981. The solar heating panels which form the south-facing roof, and which absorb heat from the sun, can be seen from the front of the building in Redfern Road
Ringstead Road
Was the site of barns
Plassy, Bowers & Southend Roads are the site of Honley Field.
Sandhurst Road.
Sangley Road
RC Holy Cross 1904 Sanctuary added 1924
Sandhurst road school direct hit on the school. 30 children managed to get out in time but it exploded in the dining room. 38 children and six teachers were killed. All bueriedn Hither Green cemetery
Stainton Road
Called after Henry Stainton of Mountsfield Park
Torriden Road
Goes along the Greenwich meridian.
So named after a house which once stood here. The road is quite unusual as it is built in the form of a rectangle, probably marking the extent of the house and its grounds.
Bellingham
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Bellingham Road
Catford School , early example of post war secondary school, 1955, London County Council. 1955-6 by G. Horsfall and T. Bliss of the L.C.C. One big curtain-walled four-storey slab of classrooms, relieved by two recessed parts with coloured spandrel panels; low communal buildings at right angles.
Daneswood Avenue
Passfields, is one ofthe most interesting groups of flats to be built immediatelyafter the Second World War in London . By Maxwell Fry &Jane Drew. Curved five-storeyed range, a shorter projectingwing again 'breaking' at right angles and returning with theformer direction. three three-storeyed blocks. Thefive-storeyed part is of concrete box-framed construction,partly rendered; the three-storeyed ranges are in weight-bearing brick. In style the difference from earlier work byMaxwell Fry is the greater diversity of small motifs, for example the balconies of alternating depth and the scatteredloggias-a jerky, typical 1950 rhythm. At the corner it getseven more complex and less regular and achieves much interest. Extremely good minor details, such as light fittings andlamp standards Festival of Britain merit award 1951. Built for Lewisham Council. A gently curved five-storey brick range at the back has projecting scattered at intervals; three brick blocks of three storeys have regular balconies. The estate maintains a crisp appeal. Attractive fencing is a feature, and there are nice greens with trees
Foster Memorial Park .
Lord Forster donated Forster Memorial Park in 1919 in memory of his sons killed in the war. It consists mainly of a central grassed area surrounded by belts of trees, some of which may be ancient woodland, but overall it is rather featureless
Walham Green
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Anselm Road
St Oswald. The parish of Saint Oswald was formed in 1899, following the success of Lillie Road Mission after 1884. The church was demolished in 1974. There is now housing on the site
Argon Mews
This was Princes Mews in the late 19th
London Electricity Board Offices and Workshops, 1950s. This included the Fulham Meter Station.
Barclay Road
23 Fulham Refuge for Friendless Girls. A Catholic institution for friendless or fallen women under 30.
Corporation Depot. This was on the site of a terrace destroyed in Second World War bombing. The site is now housing.
Britannia Road
1 T. B. Ayshford. Coach and Cart Maker, and Coach and Cart Wheelwright and Smith, and Patentee of Improvements in Omnibuses, as well as Builder of Patent Omnibuses and other Carriages. They were there in 1858. In 1903 it was the Coupe Co. Patent wheel work.
49a Britannia Studios. This was home to a number of small electrical firms, Lessa Electrical Co.1950, The Flairline Organisation, 1950. Now up-market housing.
69a Fulham Club and Institute. Traditional working men's club with two darts teams it houses, In the 1890s this was the Liberal club . It has recently been rebuilt to include flats.
1-10 Greville Place. This is the site of Harwood Primary School. On this site the school dated from 1928. In 1942 the building was shared with the Londoners' Meals Service, which maintained a public restaurant there until 1947. The school closed in 1991, the premises in Britannia Road were demolished and the site was developed for housing.
Coleridge Gardens
This is an up-market housing development on the site of part of the College of St.Mark and St.John. Only a corner of the road, and of the College site are in this square.
Dan Leno Walk
Infill development from 1970s/80s. Named for ‘the funniest man in the world’.
Effie Road
BIMM. This is a contemporary music college.It began in 1983 as the Tech Music School London which in 2010 by the BIMM Group of music colleges.Barclay House is a five-storey building with recording studios, mac labs, post-production suites, rehearsal studios, lecture rooms, mixing rooms, performance spaces and teaching rooms.
Barclay House. This was built on the site of bomb damaged houses in 1947 by Sir Robert MacAlpine and son Ltd for the Metropolitan Borough of Fulham Electricity Department.
Christian Fellowship , Barclay Hall. Set up as a Mission and School in the 1890s Barclay Hall is a two storey building, with semi-basement, with “MISSION AND SCHOOLROOM” and “BARCLAY HALL” signed above the door. It appears to have been, or maybe still be, involved with the London City Mission.
Welsh Presbyterian Church. This has been The Haven (breast cancer charity) since 2000. The church dated from the 1890s and was closed in 1988.
Farm Lane
23 Farm Lane Care Home
72 Stewart’s garages. The site was occupied by market gardens in 1869-74. This was built in 1880 by the London Road Car Company as their depot. The Company was one of the largest proprietors of horse-drawn buses in London .It was also one of the largest and finest horse stables in London and contained two-storey stables that were ranged around a quadrangle, where 700 horses lived in about 1890. The London General Omnibus Company (LGOC) took over the premises in 1909, and left in 1923. There appears to have been a V1 adjacent in 1944. By 1971 it was a 'Catering Depot'. Plaque to this is shown on building
10l Rainsborough Square. This was the Farm Lane Motor Works. This was the Omega Bus Co. from 1901-05. 10 horse bus of Berg. Co. and other buses. Motor repairs and engineering 1970s. Sign works 1970s. Now a modern housing development and trading estate. Plaque to this is shown on building
Lyons horse stables
London Road Car Co between there and Seagrave Road
Tilbury’s mat and rope works
78 Laundry rund the back up the end
Joinery works behind the houses
Wahleeah
Weavers arms 1960s
Harwood Arms.
Troughton and Young
Tyrad lighting
founded in 1897 and closed in 1988.
Finborough Road
Was previously Honey Lane
Fulham Broadway
Shopping centre of Walham Green. The side of Walham Green became Fulham Broadway but there is little to commend in the c19 and c20 medley, apart from the Town Hall of 1888 and some public buildings along North End Road
George. Grand Italianate mid c 19
Sculpture by Philip King, 1981, is hardly a visual asset.
Shopping development a more dignified addition to the townscape 1987 by Renton Howard Wood Levin, in a vaguely Venetian palazzo style, yellow brick with red trimmings.
White Hart from 1532.
Kings Head from 1680.
Cock from 1713.
Pond Head 1606
Wheatsheaf 1616
Brewery in 1796 called the Swan and the Swan Pub was its outlet.
Town Hall. 1880-90 ext. l904. Edwards 1888. Many of London so called vestry halls and town halls were the products of so called bad competitions'. But perhaps none more so than Fulham Town Hall, which was plagued by virtually every iniquity imaginable vagueness of instructions, Insufficiency of funds, delayed notification of results overruling of the assessor. And accusations of outright unfairness jobbery and nepotism. The assessor’s choice of design selected from some 400 drawings submitted by 63 architects was’ overturned by the vestry committee which selected less extravagant designs by George Edward's. Built in 1899 for twice the original stipulated sum the Classic Renaissance' detailing was externally largely restricted to the Fulham Road frontage, where London stocks are faced with Portland stone. Internally the building boasts a magnificently adorned large hall on the first floor approached by a grand double return principal staircase. A five-bay full blooded Baroque extension of 1904-5 by the borough engineer Francis Wood added to the ensemble of beautifully crafted interior spaces many with Arts & Crafts details. Further perfunctory additions of 1934 and 1949 by respectively Walter Cave and J. Pritchard Lovell, complicate what becomes a rather entangled assemblage of buildings.
Library l909.
Grenville Theatre f. Dan Leno 1898 now closed. In the 1950s owned by ITV
Walham Green Court
Sculpture
Fulham Road
Road from London to Fulham mentioned in 1372 and became a proper highway in 1410 after the Bishop built Stamford Bridge. It goes to the Bishop’s Palace. 15th road. Earlier called Kings Highway and London Road. Part of the Coaching road to Portsmouth. Winds towards Chelsea with a few genteel mid c19 terraces. It ran through open fields until the mid-18th when speculative builders moved in. Street lighting from 1806 and paving from the 1840s.
456 Celtic private bus in 1924 probably at the back of Garden Row. Once LGOC stables.
62 Middleton building 19l0.
404b Italian Village
410-416 plaque to builder of Italian Village. Behind is hidden the so-called 'Italian Village', picturesque low pantiled buildings created around his workshops in the 1920S by the sculptor Mario Manenti.
422-438 villas
448 Sir Oswald Stoll Foundation. Mansions main intrusion on the north side is this long undistinguished Baroque frontage. 1917-23 by Inigo R. Tasker, with housing behind for disabled ex-servicemen.
525-531 houses
469 Features in film 'Performance’.
480-4 494-504 old
Fulham Fire Station 1896 L.C.C
490-2 Old Red Lion pub with old red lion on it
583 Cinematographic Theatre. Small cinema, built c 1914, shared space with a surveyor's office. It appeared to hark back to the old 'penny-gaff although it would have been more advanced.
596 Marist Convent 1896
623 George’s Snack Bar.
Fulham Broadway Station. 1st March 1880. Between West Brompton and Parsons Green on the District Line to Wimbledon. On the Metropolitan District Railway. Opened as ‘Walham Green’ on the site of Fulham Road tollgate by the Metropolitan Railway. Built in a cutting with an A shaped overall roof of glass with iron built over blind arched walls. In 1910 the station was rebuilt by the District Line architect with a street level building designed by Harry Wharton Ford with a new entrance and booking office to accommodate crowds for the newly built Stamford Bridge stadium. It is now listed Grade II. In 1952 the name was changed to ‘Fulham Broadway’ after representations from Fulham who said that one station in the Borough ought to be called Fulham something. Served the Stamford Bridge Ground, which was leased in 1876 to the London Athletic Club and Athletic Grounds. New booking hall and concourse, with extra exits for Stamford Bridge. There are 10 booking windows so that they could issue 120 tickets a minute. In 2003 a new station was opened within the adjacent shopping centre with the motto "Life Begins at Fulham Broadway". The centre was built above what were the open-air sections of the platforms and the station facilities were improved to for the management of football crowds. The old station building was refurbished and is occupied by a restaurant. It retains many of the original station signs and architectural features.
Gas Board showrooms.
Purser’s Cross. Mansion house south of Fulham Road, west of Walham Green. 1765 Home of John Ord, and afterwards of Lord Ravensworth. It contained a curious garden planted and laid out by Mr. John Ord; this garden produced some of the finest specimens of trees in the kingdom. Visited by Queen Victoria and the Prince Consort in 1840, after which its name was changed for some unknown reason to Percy Cross. John Ord was Chief Baron of the Court of Exchequer in Scotland, Master in Chancery, and M.P. for Midhurst.
George
Chelsea and Fulham station2ndMarch 1863. West London Extension Railway On the north side of Fulham Road entrance on the north east side of Wandon Road. Called ‘Chelsea’ Station although it is in Fulham. In 1903 it was renamed ‘Chelsea and Fulham’ – but it was never busy and usually just used by Chelsea football crowds. In 1940 closed and in that October it was bombed and burnt out. The buildings were demolished in the 1950s. The platforms may still be there and the crumbling remains of the north bound platform, flanked by a brick wall. It was never reopened and there are flats on the site but station remains are still left in the boundary wall of the new flats.
Halford Road
Halford Road Schools
Cricket ground shown in the 1890s the junction with Farm Lane. This was Captain James’s Field. It may in fact have been a football ground which was used by the Stanley Football Club
Harwood Road
Harwood Road School demolished.
Hilmead road
Hornthwaite road
Ifield Road
Was previously Honey Lane.
Jerdan Place
St. Johns Church 1827
Kensington Canal
North of Kings Road filled in 1850s. It Forms the dividing line between Chelsea and Fulham. The canal, which was two and a quarter miles long was opened on 12 August 1828, and was a hundred feet wide and capable of affording a passage for craft up to a hundred tons burden. It was built at a cost of £40,000 to convey water to Kensington and its income from wharfs, tonnage, etc., was estimated at £2,500 per annum. Similarly the canal was constructed in 1724 by the Chelsea Waterworks Company from the Thames near Ranelagh to Pimlico, to provide water to Westminster, Chelsea, and the West End of London. This canal was abolished to make way for Victoria Station.
Site of lock to the north of West Cromwell Road. Lock over the railway bridge facing the railway near junction of West Cromwell Road and Warwick Road. Kensington Rifle Club.
King’s road
Knivet Street
Lancaster court
Lillie Road
Called after Sir John Lillie local landowner when the road was built. The street-line disintegrates into ill-thought-out wasteland
Two stately pairs of stuccoed villas of c. 1840 one with a plaque with the incongruous name Hermitage Cottages
Ramada Inn bulky concrete
Peabody Fulham Estate c. 1900, five-storey blocks, ultra-plain apart from terracotta doorways.
Lillie Bridge Depot Trainstaff Mess.
Bus garage
Lillie Bridge Signal Overhaul Shop
Lillie Bridge Stores
Lillie Bridge Met Railway Gas Works. Pipeline to Hammersmith.
Maxwell road
Michael road
Micklethwaite road
Moore Park Road
Area developed 1850s and 60s by freeholder Percival Maxwell who came from Moore Park County Waterford. Hence street names Percival Road, Maxwell Road Moore Park Road and Waterford Road. .
St.James Church Hall
Mark II version c. 1970 of the borough's experimental deck access housing by Higgins, Ney & Partners starker and more cost-conscious than its prototype.
St.James 1869 nice stained glass inside.
Victorian iron railings
1-17 4 storey stucco mansions, iron work
Lord Roberts Mews. Private housing with the artful arched features and fancy brickwork favoured a decade later Michael Brown Associates, 1983.
Musgrave Crescent
Terrace of houses stepped at 45o
11 Features in film 'Melody’.
North End Road
North End. Named after the old hamlet of ‘Northend’ 1459, ‘North End’ 1822, 'northern district in the parish of Fulham)', from Middle English ‘north’ and ‘end’. Leads to Lillie Road and West Kensington. North End, and consisted of a line of residences extending for more than a mile from Walham Green Church to Hammersmith. Market gardens skirted both sides of the road, with very old cottages. Much of it was rebuilt when quantity not quality was the aim in public housing. It is Fulham's busiest shopping centre and includes one of London's most lively street markets.
Volunteers' Pub is river volunteers who met at Beaufort House
368 Fulham Baths. With two deep wells for water and a rifle range. 1900-1902. demolished in the early 1980s. It was occupied and run by campaigners for a time, but the only result of their endeavours was the preservation of the grade II listed façade.
Princess Beatrice Hospital 1834.
St.John's Church l827. Wholly devoid of mystery. 1827. Built after the design of Mr. Taylor upon a filled-up pond. The foundation-stone was laid on 1 January 1827, and the church was consecrated by the Bishop of London on 14 August 1828.
Butchers Almshouses 1840. Foundation-stone laid by Lord Ravensworth on 1 July 1840.
Methodist New Connection
West London County Court
Waitrose on the site of the ABC Cinema.
Ongar road
Pulton road
Racton Road
A more appealing street developed c. 1900-4 with model housing for the Gunter estate by the estate's surveyor, Walter Cave: low terraces and cottage flats in a simple Arts and Crafts style: striped quoins, casement windows.
40 St Oswald’s Studios by Cave, picturesque formerly the vicarage for the demolished St Oswald's, with narrow sash-windows in the manner of Philip Webb.
Railway Lines
District Line south from West Brompton built by the Metropolitan Railway in 1880. Leaving the south end of West Brompton station it goes below the West London Railway line at first in a cutting.
The West London Railway follows the track of the former Kensington Canal. The extension to Chelsea and Battersea, which involved the filling up of the old Kensington Canal, was not completed until 2 March 1865.
Bull Lane. It connected the main Fulham Road with King's Road, by the side of the former Kensington Canal, now covered by the West London Railway.
Chelsea Pensioner hanged and gibbeted there in 1765. In those positions the bodies of the murderers hung in chains for
Redcliffe Street
10 Dobson essayist
Rumbold road
Sandford Bridge
Sand Ford market gardens.
Football ground. Market gardens, farm in l905
Seagrave road
London orartry school
Site of Western Fever Hospital. Built as a smallpox hospital in 1867. Disliked the name and locally unpopular. 1883 renamed. And became general fever hospital
LNWR sidings site built on. North Western 'Super D' 0-8-Os simmering here between duties around 1959/60.
Sedlescombe Road
More appealing street developed c. 1900-4 with model housing for the Gunter estate by the estate's surveyor, Walter Cave: low terraces and cottage flats in a simple Arts and Crafts style: striped quoins, casement windows.
Shirrolds road
Tamworth Street
Tournay road
Vanston Place
Jolly Maltster. Perkier gabled pub of 1900 by Nowell Parr & Kates tucked away
Walham Green
The Victorian centre of Fulham developed at Waltham Green which was once a hamlet around a green on the Fulham Road.It was then a plot of ground on the north side of Fulham Road – a Green triangle between Vanston Place, Jordan Place and Fulham Broadway upon which donkeys used to graze and children played cricket. In the 17th there were stocks and a whipping post, with a pond. .. Prior to 1688 it was known as Wansdon Green, this name being derived from the Manor of Wendon. Called ‘Wendenegrene’ in 1386, ‘Wendenesgrene’ 1397. In 1483 called ‘Wandagrene’ – a personal name -‘Wanam Grene’ 1546, ‘Wallam Green’ 1710, that is 'village green associated with a family called ‘(de) Wenden’; from Middle English ‘grene’. A family of this name is recorded in the parish of Fulham from the 13th century; they probably came from Wendens -earlier ‘Wendene’ "the winding valley' - in Essex.
65 Chelsea Village Complex – was the Chelsea football ground. Stamford Bridge.
Embankments made of spoil from the tube
Walham Grove
An attractively complete street of 1862, with stuccoed terraces facing trim paired villas with side entrances, and a former Nonconformist church of the same period.
United Methodist Free Church
Wandon Road
A small pocket of housing built on railway land in 1958-60 by Bridgewater & Shepheard; an eleven-storey tower and lower buildings, with eight artists' studios.
3-4 secluded cottages, road raised when railway built
Waterford Road
Pleasant minor mid Victorian street, with stucco-trimmed terraces
25-27
Gasworks Restaurant 85-87 pub turned into a folly
Clare Mews. Another small infill of the 1980s.
Waterford road
West Brompton Cemetery
West Brompton Cemetery. Unkempt. Over-managed by MSC & herbicide. Grassland etc. West London and Westminster Cemetery Co. 1840. 40 acres with many memorials. Benjamin Baud 1840.
Chapel.
West gate terrace
Sources
Buildings to see in Fulham and Hammersmith
Clunn. The Face of London
Hasker. The Place which is called Fulanham
Hillman & Trench. London Under London
London Borough of Hammersmith and Fulham. Web site
London Encyclopaedia
Lucas. London
Pevsner & Cherry. London North West
Smythe. City Wildspace
Fulham
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Ackmar Road
24 Fire mark over the door.
Bagleys Lane
Grove House day nursery 19th
Broomhouse Lane.
School l854.
Sycamore and Ivy Cottages
Eight Feathers Club 1845 tower etc
Lodge Pretty tilehung and half timbered
Castle Club. Built as a school by Horace Francis, 1854-5, quite a pretty symmetrical Tudor brick and stone composition with two stepped gables, a hefty central tower, and picturesquely grouped chimneys.
Broomhouse Road
Streets of predominantly late Victorian and Edwardian, with a few scattered stuccoed villas of the early c19
21 house
Broom Villa
Cambria Street
Imperial Arms. Confident Victorian Italianate comes as welcome relief.
Clancarty Road
2 villas
75 house with wide facade
Eel Brook Common
Eel Brook. Named from ‘Hillebrook’ 1408, ‘Hellebrook’ 1444, ‘Helbroke’ 1554, ‘Eelbrook’ 1820, that is ‘’-brook by a hill', from Old English ‘hyll’ here used of only a slight elevation in an otherwise flat terrain and ‘broc’. The later development is the result of folk etymology. Means Hillbrook running down a slope. Once land with local rights for pasture. 14 acres from old Eel Brook which was on the west boundary of the common. Legal case in 1878 but in the end the Metropolitan Board of Works took it over. Tributary going to Counters Creek at Stamford Bridge Much larger than today. Bit facing Crondace Road was called Fulham Common and enclosed by ecclesiastical commissioners 1878. Commons rights and protests. Managed by LCC.
113-121, 99-107, 71-77 with a few more late Georgian pairs and terraces
Elm House and Duffield House.
Harwood Road school 1873 one of the early schools.
Elmstone Road
Janet Street-Porter’s childhood home.
Emden Street
Built to join Sands End Lane and Imperial Road
Fulham
Fulham Road
396 Marist convent school l840s.
Granville Theatre of Varieties
Imperial Road
Built by the Imperial Gas Co as an substitute for the closed up Sands End Lane
Imperial Square
A delightful enclave of simple c19 cottage terraces with generous front gardens, built for workers in the Imperial Gas Company nearby. The hard landscaping and the appropriate reproduction gas lamps date from the 1980s. Gas workers probably Germans brought in to stop labour troubles.
Victorian gas holder
Kings Road
600
Marinefield Road
Elizabeth Barnes Court sheltered housing, a friendly sequence of broad tile-hung gables with inset balconies.
Maynard Close
The poorly detailed low-rent housing of the 1980s is in sad contrast. By Robert Patterson of Romuiu Construction, is perhaps better than the rest.
Michael Road
Gas Council Research Station white tiles Civic Trust award
New Kings Road
M/e just a lane no name.
North side of Draycott Lodge home of Holman Hunt called a local school.
Southern Cross was the Peterborough Hotel of 1892 grander, but in the same style as the estate.
71-77 red brick 19c
93-107 houses
111 house
113,115 cottages
117-121 houses
Parsons Green
Parsons Green Named ‘Personesgrene’ 1391,’ Person grene’ 1457, ‘Personnesgrene’ 1534, that is 'village green where the Parson lives, or by the parsonage', from Middle English ‘persone’ and ‘grene’. This hamlet developed around the parsonage of Fulham which stood to the west of the Green and was demolished in 1882. There was still a large pond on the Green until the 19th century, and annual fairs were held here until the 1820s. Managed by LCC
237- 245, a terrace of three-bay houses dated 1795, is unusual in having centrally placed doorways.
247, three storeys and basement with a later top storey and lower wings; good fanlight.
Pond was called Colepitts and drained at the end of the 19th
Lady Margaret School. A girls' school established in 1917. Iron Age settlement found in the grounds.
Belfield House has an early c 18 front of five bays, with the two outer windows in slightly projecting wings. Handsomely detailed, with red brick used for quoins and window heads, and stone keystones. Restored by the artist Theodore Roussel in 1890. Interior much altered. Fine staircase and fireplaces removed when converted for the school in 1917.
Elm House. Adjoining of c.1800, recorded as a school already in 1803, became part of the present one in 1937. Five bays, with recessed windows with mask keystones, and tripartite doorway in rusticated surround. Entrance hall with simple cantilevered stair curving up over the doorway; the room behind on a generous scale, with bow-window to the garden. The room above, also with a bow, is now the Chapel central window with painted glass by Sasha Ward, 1987: Tree of Life, birds in a trellis pattern. Good original cornices in both rooms.
Henniker House. Plain Italianate of c. 1841 much altered. Back wings for the school, plain well-detailed brick ranges, from 1962. Hall completed 1965, by Seely & Paget.
1-3 White Horse pub. Late 19th pub near the apex of the green. It is red terracotta with tall gable and a motif of a horse under a canopy. It was rebuilt in 1881 after a disastrous fire destroyed the original pub, which dated back to 1778. It is a mecca for beer enthusiasts with regular beer festivals and a lot of beers from Belgium, Germany and the USA. It is also popular with people who have given it the name of the 'Sloany Pony'. It has bench-seating and a restaurant, which was converted, from a coach house. It was once the meeting place for an early cricket team – The Albion Cricket Club
Church Hall 1876 by Arthur Billing
Rectory with Gothic doorway and a little tile-hanging. Humble cottagey terraces of c. 1840 much gentrified.
Duke of Cumberland. Refurbished with an interesting history. Large Victorian pub named after Prince Ernest Augustus, 1771-1851. It overlooks Parsons
Green and has undergone many alterations. The main bar area has a splendid tiled wall with figurines harvesting grapes, the long bar leads to a snug room where a quiet drink can be enjoyed and there is a raised seating area with a real log fire for cold winter nights. The pub attracts a mixed clientele of locals and people from the Southern Hemisphere
10a
St.Dionysus. Rebuilt 1886. Odd font from Wren St.Dioynsus Backchurch and pulpit too. Plate. Built with money from the sale of the City church. Stands on the site of the Rectory which gave the area its name,
SE corner had pond from l559.
Fulham House in this area. Home of Lord Stourton and William Sharpe.
Parsons Green Lane
Name of hamlet land of parsonage at Fulham 1391 Personesgrove. Now a little bit of green left. Parsongate there 1391-1982.
Parsons Green Station. 1st March 1880. Between Fulham Broadway and Putney Bridge on the District Line to Wimbledon. On the Metropolitan District Railway, Fulham extension railway. A modest version of Putney Bridge Station. In 1870s there were wooden platforms and door in the arch over the road. Tower with windows and ivy. Built to avoid houses and stick to garden areas.
'Fine new block of artisan flats'
24 Swan over the porch
LPTB works. Unexploded bomb
Peterborough Road
Peterborough House. A major c17 gentleman’s retreat and mansion rebuilt in the late c18 and demolished c. 1900.
On the Peterborough Estate a remarkably coherent grid of streets was developed from the 1890s by the local builder J. Nichols between Peterborough Road, Wandsworth Bridge Road, and Studdridge Street. Much terracotta trim originally buff, but mostly now painted white. The shared gables decorated with heraldic lions are the distinctive signatures. Called the Peterloo estate name of east of Peterborough. Demolished 1708 and again 1900.
28 cottage
Rewell Street
Sandford Manor. Hidden amidst the 1980s closes, the one older survival. Despite its c19 roughcast and parapet, essentially a mid c17 house, a rare survival in the inner suburbs. After long neglect, restored and converted to offices in 1987-9 by Romulus Construction Ltd. It is a lesser version of the new type of progressive, compact brick mansion built at this time in the countryside around London. Until the 1840s, when it was divided into two dwellings for gas employees, it had a front with three shaped gables. 2-1-2 windows, their heavy brick mid c17 surrounds still evident beneath the render, as is the moulded brick stringcourse. Flank walls with three plain gables. The plan is now a roughly rectangular double pile; there was originally a back courtyard between two wings filled in in the c 19. The wings are at different levels because of a cellar below the room. Front range with central entrance hall flanked by a larger room on each side, each with a hefty chimneystack also serving the room behind. The hall - an entrance hall only, not a hall of the old type - also contains the staircase; a typical mid c17 example, with small well, closed string, turned balusters, and newels with simple balls and pendants. It continues up to the attic floor. Restored with honey-coloured paint and graining; the hall panelling treated likewise. In the wing, first-floor room with restored panelling medium-size panels; in the room above, remains of c 17 black and red painting of a vase of flowers in the fireplace reveal. The restoration is a good example of the 'conserve as found' philosophy of the 1980s. The later phases of the building's history have not been removed. Walnut trees, stairs and gates. Nell Gwyn
Ryecroft Road
Victorian pillar box
Sands End
Where New Kings Road becomes Kings Road, is Chelsea-over-the-border, with a surfeit of antique shops. Much rebuilding of the 1980s in a welter of ill-digested styles.
Southpark land of south field farm or broom farm bought for the borough in 1903
Imperial Gas Works. Fulham Works. Imperial Gas Co from 1824 – 1876 on the site of Sandford Manor House. Oldest gas holder is not visible from the outside. 1871 spiral type. Wharf on Thames 1926. Second oldest gas works and third largest in North Thames Gas Board. Clegg built the Imperial works in 1824. In 1827 2 more holders added and in 1829 the Dutton Street plant was added to make gas. Retort houses date from 1838, 1842, l856, 1864 & 1865. Was making 9 mcf a day by 1900. Always of very advanced design. Had the Largest gas holders for many years - the Guide framing was remarkable. ‘Sultan’ following visit by Nased el Din who said Murdoch was God of Light. CWG etc etc. The Kensington Canal was used after 1862 with docks to the canal and in 1926 sea going colliers were unloaded from the river using a Hand conveyor to works. In 1891 mechanical coal storage plant installed. In 1879 complaints about lime meant they used barges with canvas covers. Special gas 1908-17 for balloons and war training which was sent to Hurlingham by a special main. Mantle burning factory in 19l6. In 1911 became the first GLCC motor depot and in 1920 it was a Benzole motor spirit station. Research Laboratory set up in 1927. By the 1970s it was a Gasholder station with 2 holders. After closure car breakers were on much of the site and it was eventually bought by property developers St.George. Features in film 'Sweeney!’, ‘Eye of the Needle’,
Sands End Lane
Closed by the gas company. Had been important thoroughfare
Stamford Bridge
‘Samfordesbregge’ 1444, ‘Stamfordbregge’ 1449, ‘Stamfordbregge’ 1456, named from ‘Sandford’ 1236, and 1340, ‘the sandy ford', from Old English ‘sand’ and ‘ford’ with the later addition of ‘brycg’.
Counters Creek.joined by tributary from Eel Brook Common The line of West London Railway follows it and it was the eastern boundary of Fulham.
Ford. The original ford over Counters Creek was superseded by a bridge carrying the main road
Stamford Bridge. Built by the Bishop of London in 1410 for the road from London to his Fulham Palace.
Market gardens. Farm in 1905
Chelsea Football Club. East Stand Like an enormous claw. Feeling of strength quality of joinery very sophisticated. Very famous ground. Embankments made of spoil from the tube
Townmead Road
Last place name showing this old town meadows t is the northern edge of the
Between Chelsea Dock and Broomhouse Dock big hay producing area. Was a curious medley of down-at-heel depots and derelict utilities, building sites for smart new flats, and strings of little two-storey Victorian houses barely touched by gentrification?
Wandsworth Bridge Road
Broomhouse and Hurlingham
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Broomhouse Lane
Broomhouse Lane seems to date from at least the medieval period when there was a small hamlet in the area. This was surrounded by meadows and there was a warren belonging to the Bishops of London
The Elizabethan Open Air School. In 1855 Laurence Sulivan, established a Ragged School for the children of his estate workers. He built a Gothic Revival building in Broomhouse Lane and called it the Elizabethan Schools, after his late wife Elizabeth. It was designed by Horace Francis with flats for the schoolmaster and schoolmistress and two almshouses. It is symmetrical with a central black brick diaper patterned tower. In 1920 the London County Council bought the building as an open air school to use for delicate, particularly tuberculous, children. By 1948 the building old with only gas lighting – and thus no electricity for a radio - and two cold draughty rooms. There were two open-air huts and a building for a kitchen and dining room. The toilets were in the playground. The School had three classes divided into ages. Gradually new drugs meant less need for open air treatments and the school closed in 1960. The building then became a youth club which closed itself in 2007. The building was sold by Hammersmith & Fulham Council for £4m and it now has planning permission to convert into housing. On the Daisy Lane frontage is a stonework shield with an inscription '1855'.
Parsons Green Club. This was founded in 1885, and moved here in the 1920s. The club had begun as the Ray of Hope coffee house founded by Miss Sulivan. Various sports facilities were opened on a field at the north end of the road. When Miss Sullivan died there was a dispute on her will and the club lost their clubhouse. In 1912 Hurlingham Club offered to swap the land at the north end in return for a site south of Daisy Lane. This was agreed and a new clubhouse was built along with new sporting facilities. Since then facilities have expanded, although limited by the two world wars and the council’s purchase of the cricket and golf areas. The site is now being reconfigured and a new club house is due to open in 2017.
Broom House. From 1823 this was the home of the philanthropic Sulivan family including Laurence Sulivan, who was Palmerston’s brother-in-law. This 18th house was demolished in the early 1900s and became part of the Hurlingham Club grounds along with its notable garden. The site of the house appears to be marked by terraces to the east of Hurlingham Club House.
Carnworth House. This stood at the south eastern end of the road was originally called Lonsdale House, having begun as a cottage in the 18th with several well connected residents including In the early 19th members of Lonsdale family. This continued with society and political leaders and by the late 19th the Earl of Carnwath.
Carnwath road
Broomhouse dock. Broom House draw dock is an ancient access to the river, dating from the Middle Ages
92-116 Baltic Sawmills, this is a development of flats and this is the developers name for them
106-113 Jewson. Building supplies
74-86 Hitchcock King, timber merchant
Broomhouse Laundry. This was present in the late 19thand early 20th
25 Carnwath Industrial Estate. Includes Howdens, Timber wholesaler and joiners
Petrofina wharf petroleum storage depot
Reinforced concrete works 1950s
Xyz wharf 1950s
Hurlingham Wharf. This was a cement works in the 1960s. In use for the Tideway Tunnel, It is a safe-guarded wharf
Tideway Tunnel. `The main tunnel will run from here to Acton Storm Tanks. The site here will include an above ground ventilation building with a ventilation column and a below ground main tunnel shaft, with access openings,
Whiffin Wharf. This is part of the Thames Tideway site. In 1854 a London pharmacist, Thomas Whiffen became part of a small firm manufacturing chemicals in the Borough. In 1868 he moved the business to Battersea. They made poisons and alkaloids from imported raw materials. In 1887 they moved to Southall and took over the Aldersgate Chemical Works and some other companies. The Aldersgate Chemical Works were later based here from 1923 as a leading British Chemical company. . In 1947 it was acquired by Fisons Limited.
Gravel pit 1914
Mead wharf 1960s
Watson house—is this now energie
St John’s wharf this is a road to the river 1960s
United wharf 1960s
Trinidad wharf
West wharf metropolitan asylums board
Table waters works
Claytons wharf
Christiana wharf
Town mead wharf
Malt house north side behind pub at east end
Victoria wharf 1914
Corrison works 1950s
Trogon wharf 1950s
Wandsworth bridge wharf 1950s
Riverside wharf 1960s now the trading estate on Wansdworth bridge road
Daisy Lane
De Morgan road
Pottery
Dymoke
Street
Greer Street
Hamble Street
Hugon road
Hurlingham Square
Hurlingham club
Hurlingham Farm Cottage, 1873
Hurlingham House. A gentleman’s retreat built by William Cadogan, surgeon, in 1760. Later, the home of John Horsley Palmer, a governor of the Bank of England and later the Duke of Wellington’s brother. It is a plain three-bay, three-storey house of brown brick flanked by additions made by George Byfield in 1797-8 for John Ellis who transformed the river frontage into a white stucco-faced mansion in Nash's grand manner. A service wing and stables formed the sides of what is now the entrance courtyard. More work was carried out for the club by Lutyens c.1906-12. Interiors dated from Byfield's time but there have been many additions. A conservatory was demolished after war damage. It is the only survivor among the Georgian mansions which once fringed this part of the river, insulated by its grounds, still spacious, though less extensive than before the Second World War.
Hurlingham Club. Since 1869 the house was the Hurlingham Club, founded initially for pigeon shooting but later famous for polo – when it became the headquarters of the British game. Polo ended here in 1939 and the sport is now based in Oxfordshire. The Garden is a 40-acre 'country-house' garden with lawns mainly laid to bowls, croquet and tennis
Peterborough Road
Watson House. British Gas Offices and Laboratories 1961-3 by E.R. Collister & Partners, an enterprising effort to brighten an indifferent industrial area. Six-storey curtain-walled slab with blue spandrels, with low projecting exhibition wing on stilts, faced with a cheerful coloured abstract relief in polyester resin and glass, designed by John Piper and made by Gillespie & Mamerolli Associates.
Hurlingham academy
St Thomas school Fulham
Piper building
South Park
Stephenson road
Sullivan Court
Sullivan Court on the former No. 2 polo ground of the Hurlingham Club. Ot os aa estate of 432 flats built in , 1949-56 by the Fulham Borough Housing Department under J. Pritchard Lovell.
The estate has been had 432 flats disposed in L-shaped blocks of mainly 3- to 5-storeys set in a spacious, informal landscape The land was once known as Hurlingham Field by the C18th there were villas as well as meadows and nursery gardens.
Hurlingham House built in 1760 for Dr William Cadogan who leased from the Bishop of London. John Ellis enlarged with Humphry Repton landscaping, the Hurlingham estate was sold to George O'Brien Wyndham 3rd Earl of Egrement, who in 1820 sold it to John Horsley Palmer Governor of the Bank of England, and he let it to the Duke of Wellington's brother.
Richard Naylor in 1867 gave permission to Frank Heathcote to use the grounds for pigeon shooting matches byThe Gun Club of London ,. Hurlingham became a popular and fashionable venue, and Heathcote founded the Hurlingham Club as a country resort. The Club in 1874 bought the freehold pigeon shooting continued until 1905 whe the main activity was polo, a sport that had originated in Persia before being played in India, coming to England in 1869. The first polo match was played here in 1874, watched by the Prince and Princess of Wales, and Hurlingham become the game's headquarters for the British Empire. Tennis played in 1877 and a lawn racquet ground was provided in the 1880s, and croquet in c.1900.
enlarged in 1879 by Mulgrave House, demolished in 1927, and its grounds including its lake. Broom House acquired by the Club in 1912 and No. 2 Polo Ground was on the site of Sulivan Court Estate. Lutyens engaged as architect pavilions.1906-12, and half-timbered lodge by Broomhouse Lane. IN the Great War became the base for Yeomanry and an RNAS balloon detachment. In the 1930s an outdoor swimming pool, squash courts and bowling facilities were added and a 9-hole golf course. In hr Secibd wrld War used as quarters for the Army and Air Force and an anti-aircraft battery and balloon barrage unit were based here, with the main polo ground turned over to allotments. the LCC compulsorily purchased the Club's polo grounds in order to provide Hurlingham Park and Fulham Borough Council purchased No. 2 Polo Ground for Sulivan School and housing at Sulivan Court Estate.
Sullivan estate. This covers the second polo ground
Sullivan Road
Sullivan enterprise centre
50 bathstore big block
Townmead road
Wandsworth Bridge Road
Site of Townmead Road small hospital for small pox hospital 1876. Then West Wharf - to the east market gardens until the gasworks.
Grove House here - The Grove - Sandford Manor across Stanley Bridge.
St.Matthew. Nasty and built by son of Bishop of London.
Townmead estate
Sources
Catalyst. Web site.
Fulham and Hammersmith History Society. Buildings to see in Hammersmith and Fulham
Hasker. The Place that is called Fulanham
London’s Ghost Acres. Web site
London Metropolitan Archive. Web site
Lost Hospitals of London. Web site
Parsons Green Club. Web site
Pevsner and Cherry. North West London
Chelsea
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Ashburnham Road
Cremorne Gardens was the garage for the Red Rover Bus. Co. until 1920s 1977 filling station VP now in Aylesbury only had one vehicle in London. Gardens opened by the council in 1982.on part of the old pleasure grounds.
Beaufort Street.
Site of Beaufort House, reputed to be the site of the house of Sir Thomas More,who bought an estate in Chelsea in 1520, and lived hereafter his resignation from the Chancellorship in 1552. The actual site is in doubt but Beaufort House, which faced Battersea Bridge, is themost generally accepted site. Formerly the mansion of the Duke of Beaufort, it was purchased in 1736 by Sir Hans Sloane for £2.500 at a publicsale, and was pulled down in 1740. It was laid out in 1766 after Beaufort House had been demolished. Rebuilt in 20th, and consists largely of blocks of artisans', dwellings facedwith red brick.
St Thomas More Buildings most prominent buildings today the first new housing built by the borough, five hefty blocks of flats, 1903-4 by Joseph & Smithem. Red brick cheerfully embellished with stone quoins and some carving, and varied gables, although nothing like as picturesque as L.C.C. work of this time. It was built to provide 261 self-contained tenements, with eight bathrooms and a drying-room in one of the basements.
Contemporary red brick terraces opposite built for better-off artisans by the Metropolitan Industrial Dwellings Co.
114 General Gordon
20 Morgan 280
29
7 Mrs. Gaskell lived here in the 1820s
91-100 best of Chelsea, good throughout
Diocesan training college
Burnaby Street
32 Chelsea Ram
Burnaby Street
32 Chelsea Ram
Cathcart Road
A tiny enclave of pure modernism
24 by Casson Gander Partnership, 1963,
20 by C.J.G. Gut, 1975, clad in reflecting vitreous panels and full of the progressive middle-class urban spirit of Le Corbusier.
Chelsea
Called because of gravel cast up from the river. Something between a chalk wharf and a gravel bank. ‘Caellchyth’ 767, ‘Celchyth’ 789 in Anglo-Saxon charters, ‘Chelched’ 1086 in the Domesday Book, ‘Chelchuthe’ 1300, ‘Chelsey’ 1556, that is probably -landing place for chalk from old English ‘ceaic’ - perhaps influenced by an i-mutated - 'chalk place' and ‘hyth’. The spelling ‘Ca-Kchyth’ suggests early rationalization and confusion with a different word. Old English ‘cxlic’ - 'cup, chalice'. Chalk, much valued as a commodity in early times for increasing crop yields as well as for building and limeburning, was probably shipped up the Thames from Chalk near Gravesend then unloaded and transported for use on the clayey Middlesex fields as well as in the City. There was formerly a hamlet called Little Chelsea marked thus on the Ordnance Survey map of 1822 and recorded as ‘Little Chelcy’ in 1655 at the west side of the parish on the Fulham Road. Farmland until the 1520s.
Chelsea Basin,
Note on GLC development and proposal for road alongside the railway, Grade II ecology site Features in films 'Morgan’.
Chelsea Dock
Chelsea Fields
The Dwarf's
Chelsea Harbour
Pier private new
Deals
Belvedere tower
Chelsea Park Gardens
Named for the park, which was once there. Part of More estate. Part of Chelsea Vestry Road. 1885/83 John Bunyan
A modestly picturesque redevelopment on part of the Sloane Stanley estate with groups of small houses in grey and red brick with a variety of gables and tiled mansards, begun in 1913 but mostly built in 1923-8, by E. F. M. Elms and Sydney Jupp
6 Manning
Chelsea,
Called because of gravel cast up from the river
The Gateway, Chelsea
Cheyne Place
Cheyne Walk
Many houseboats moored. Features in films 'I’ll Never Forget What’s ‘is Name’, Otley’, ‘Goodbye Gemini’, .
Chelsea Yacht and Boat Company. Features in films 'The Deadly Affair’.
Church Rpad BATTERSEA
Garden Wharf, May and Baker started here next to the candle works. John May had joined a pharmacist called Price here in 1834. Moved to Church Road.
Counters Creek
Chelsea Creek. Features in films 'B.Monkey’,’The Optimists’.
Went from Kensal Green to Chelsea Creek canalised 1842.
Also called Bull Creek from parallel Bull Alley. On the line of the railway. On the south side creek waters still there. Bridge side Railway Bridge over the culverted part of the creek. Vertical embankment decreases in height to less than 1 meter and vegetation and herons. George Stephenson wanted to make it a freight rail/barge interchange. Line built and worked from 1844. Connection to London & Birmingham.
Kensington Canal dated from 1828, when Counter’s Creek, a former tidal estuary of the Thames, was made navigable. By 1836 it had proved unprofitable and was sold to the Birmingham and Great Western Railways, and in 1859 it was finally filled in to make way for the West London extension line.
Cremorne Estate
Dreary streets between Lots Road, King's Road, and CheyneWalk built upon the site of Cremorne Gardens, which untilclosed in 1877 was one of London's principal summer pleasure resorts. Many houses have been destroyed by bombing. Chelsea Boroughcouncil developing a new housing estate. The borough's major post-war redevelopment. Armstrong & Manus produced a master plan in 1948 for rebuilding with 809 dwellings; work began in 1949 with flats in Riley Street planned already in 1944. The main feature of the estate is a series of typically neat but uninspiring 1950s slabs ranged behind a low, austere terrace with shops along the s side of King's Road
The Cremorne Estate originally Chelsea Farm, and in 1751 bought by the Dowager Countess of Exeter. . Devolved in 1803 to Viscount Cremorne. Grounds opened to the public, opened as a pleasure garden. Covered sixteen acres and much livelier than Vauxhall even on its most brilliant nights, and splendid displays of fireworks were given here. Amongst other attractions were a theatre, circus, an outdoor orchestra, grottoes, and dining-hall.1845 numerous balloon ascents were made by Mr. and Mrs. Green. A later attempt at aerial navigation by a Mr. de Groof resulted in disaster, for when the apparatus was suspended beneaththe car of a balloon, and the machine was liberated, it immediately collapsed owing to some defect in its construction, and fell to the groundwith a terrible crash, instantly killing its unfortunate occupant
Cremorne Gardens
Created in 1982. Re-erected here is the fine white-painted wrought-iron gateway withthe royal arms that stood at the King's Road end of the originalgardens, which belonged to Lord Cremorne's house and wereopen as a public pleasure ground between 1845 and 1877.
Cremorne Road
Cremorne Wharf
Features in films 'Morgan’.
Edith Grove
Edith was Günter’s daughter who died in childhood
102 Mick Jagger, Keith and Brian shared a flat
Finborough Road
Many houses in this mdistrict have been destroyed or damaged in the blitz of 1940
Fulham Road
Horner’s
St.Mark's College, Neo.Georgian, 1910
8 where Alfred Gilbert made Eros
76 The Avenue. Group of 15 artists studios in the late 19th
77 Joseph. Became the Conran first Habitat store in 1964.
81 Michelin Tyre Depot with painted walls and tiles 1911. Offices above. The Michelin building was designed by F. Espinasse. It was begun in 1905 and further extended in 1910. The Company's merchandise was wittily advertised by the architectural motifs on the motoring theme with cupolas resembling piles of tyres, motor-car wheels in the pediments and tiled illustrations of cars and bicycles decorating the pillars. Even though the Michelin Man no longer adorns the top of the main window, his origins are clearly implicit in the rest of the decor that survives. Bedford Lemere, 1910. Bibendum restaurant opened here.
241 Features in film ‘The Football Factory’,
268 Redcliffe
Gunter Estate pastry cook own house called Currant Jelly Hall. Most street names in the area called after his estates in Yorkshire. Edith daughter.
369, Chelsea and Westminster Hospital developed on the site of St.Stephen's Hospital founded at 1876. It was called St. George's Union Infirmary for the school of St.George's and St.Mary's, Wanstead. balloons put on walls inside. changed to St.Stephen's by Enid Blyton's husband ,who worked at the hospital. transferred to London County Council from Westminster Board of Guardians Features in films 'Jack and Sarah’, ‘Spice World’, ‘Sliding Doors’, ‘If Only’, ‘Five Seconds to Spare’, ‘Eyes Wide Shut’.
Shellmex Garage, This was a large servicing station built in the early 1920s with room for a great variety of vehicles as well as pieces of equipment like the motor-repair stand shown in the foreground. The extensive skylights ensured the maximum of natural daylight. Notices to the staff begged them not to smoke and to 'Be Clean'.
Gunter Grove
Many houses in this mdistrict have been destroyed or damaged in the blitz of 1940,
Hobury Street
7 home of George Meredith OM 1828-1909 'poet and novelist lived here' . Meredith was born in Portsmouth and educated in Germany. In London he became a solicitor before turning his hand to writing. This did not bring about much financial reward and he had to rely on his wife's money to aid the housekeeping. He had married, in 1849, a rich widow, who decided they were no match for one another and so parted. In 1885 "Diana of the Crossways" was published, and he was on his way to becoming a popular novelist. But it didn't last. His books became fewer, his style pedantic and less readable. Plaque erected 1976.
Hollywood Road
Hollywood Arms splendid pub of 1865a fanciful Gothic building in the manner of RedcliffeSquare, probably by the Godwins;
8 Hollywood Bookshop
Hortensia Road,
Was one of the boundaries of the College of St.Luke and St.John, Hortense was a Duchess of Mazarin
Sloane School, neo-Georgian, 1908
Ifield Road
Many houses in this mdistrict have been destroyed or damaged in the blitz of 1940
Kelvedon Road:
Lutheran Chapel German church until 1WW when it was closed and became spiritualist church. Original German foundation stone still there
Kings Road
North side between Arthur Street and CarlyleSquare was site of King's Parade. Built 1810 on site of farmhouse where in 1771 where following a robbery and murder. Which led to Jews in Chelsea being targets of violence.
Past the World's End Tavern is the bridge over the West London Railway, which forms the dividing line between Chelsea and Fulham. The West London Railway follows the track of the former Kensington Canal,
The Porticos. An earlier effort at improved working-class housing now very select, but originally built in 1885 by Elijah Hoole for the Chelsea Park Dwellings Company as sixty labourers' dwellings, complete with central garden, 'in rural style ... to avoid the barrack-like appearance too common in industrial dwellings' . Two three-storey ranges, the one to the street conspicuously picturesque (though hardly rural), with shop below giant red brick Gothic arches, tile hanging and patterned roughcast above.
355, a custard-coloured tower built as council flats by Chamberlain Powell 1969, revamped by Fitch &• Co. in 1988 as private flats with new top floor and new cladding to hide the problematic load bearing brickwork
372 La Bersagliera. Features in films '’Dracula AD 1972’ as ‘The Cavern’
400, Kings House, of c.1900, looks cheerful with brick and stone chequer upper floor,
Water Rat, a sweet stuccoed pub, marks
Moravian Burial Ground. A large pair of gates marks the entrance of what was once part of the grounds of Lindsey House. . The trees are in a private garden, established around the former stables of Beaufort House when Moravians occupied Lindsey House. Here the Countess of Huntingdon had a house, and the Moravians settled on land bought in 1750 by James Hutton from Sir Hans Sloane. only the burial ground remains, at the junction of the King's Road and Milman Street. It is divided Moravian-fashion into four plots – for married men and women and single men and women. Here lie Peter Bohler, Wesley's spiritual mentor during his search for faith in 1738; James Hutton, bookseller and leader of the Fetter Lane Society; and John Cennick, Wesley's first lay preacher, best remembered for his hymns. But the flat stones are weathered and hard to decipher. This is the site of Sir Thomas More's house, which later came into the hands of Sir Hans Sloane and was demolished in 1740. Features in films '’The Lion at World’s End’.
World's End. Effervescent, pub rebuilt in 1897, which has happily survived the road-widening schemes, and steps out with florid bows and corner turret
536 breaks the mid c 19 terraces broken offices with flats behind, 1979 by Sir John Burnet Tait & Partners, built on the site of a brewery. Their plain brick bulk uncomfortably at odds with the quite elegantly detailed groups of stuccoed houses outliers of the classier Gunter estate development
577 Imperial Pub. Haggard’s Brewery set up by Haggard Brothers.City gents,for the pub.
Police Station. Was on the corner of Milman’s Street. Now gone. Features in films '’Lost’, ‘Sapphire’, ‘Victim’.
siteof Chelsea & Fulham station.West London Extension Railway Station situated on thenorth side of the famous Kings Road. Built in 1863, called ‘Chelsea’ Station although it is in Fulham. 1903 renamed ‘Chelsea and Fulham’ . Never busy and usually just used by Chelsea football crowds. In October 1940 bombed and burnt out. crumbling remains of the northbound platform, flanked by a brick wall,erected around this time, bear silent testimony to a completely different London.. Station remains still left in the boundary wall of the new flats. Never reopened and flats on the site
Lamont Road
The main route through a neat grid of stucco terraces
Limerston Road
A council development of 1954-8 (Chelsea Borough Engineer's Department), intended to be in keeping with Chelsea traditions: mostly flats, including eight studios, but tactfully disguised as semi-detached villas
Little Chelsea
Settlement which grew up in the 17th on the road between Chelsea and the Bishop’s Palace at Fulham. The district to the north of King's Road, extending to the West LondonRailway, was formerly known as Little Chelsea. Until about 1860 it stillremained more or less a rural hamlet in its general character. It commenced west of Chelsea Park, now Elm Park Gardens, and had its centrein Fulham Road, at the corner of Beaufort Street, leading to BatterseaBridge.
On 16 April 1765 Mr. James House Knight, of Walham Green,returning home from London was robbed and murdered on the FulhamRoad in the vicinity of Little Chelsea. A reward of £50 was offered forthe discovery of the murderers, and on 7 July following two Chelsea pensioners were committed to prison charged with the murder on the evidence of their accomplice, another Chelsea pensioner, whom they hadthreatened to kill as the result of a quarrel which took place between them. The accused were tried, found guilty, hanged and gibbeted.
Lots Road
Area called the 'Lots''Lots' of ground for people called Lammas Rights
Power station. this station supplied electricity for London Transport railways in the central London area. When it first built in 1904 it was the largest power station in the world and the chimneys the tallest in Europe. The original plant had Babcock & Wilcox water tube boilers on the first and second floors, unusual in England then. they supplied steam to 10 Westinghouse-Parsons turbines driving 5phase generators the largest sets built at the time. The building has a steel frame filled with terracotta and brick. American Charles T. Yerkes was responsible setting this station up to supply power to the Metropolitan and District Railway, the Baker Street & Waterloo, Charing Cross, Euston & Hampstead and Great Northern & Piccadilly tubes and the Brompton Railway, also the Central London Railway in emergency. New plant was installed in the early 1960's, consisted of 6 Babcox & Wilcox superheater boilers the first of their type commissioned in this country. Cooling water is drawn from the Thames where flat fish testify to the purity of the Thames. Water to make up losses in the recycling system is obtained from an artesian well. The 1935 control room was situated over- looking the turbine hall and this room maintained much of its original appearance. the present day control room is in a separate building. Lost two chimneys in 1960s.
Gates to site of Cremorne Gardens closed 1877. Originally called Chelsea Farm. Owned by Duchess of Exeter and then Viscount Cremorne. Balloon ascents, 1845, by Green and Groof, who was killed.
Ashburnham House
Kensington destructor near the disposal works, 1894. Salopian Wharf, 1880. Refuse Disposal Co. sorting and barging Kensington and Chelsea waste. All refuse sorted and sold - sieved in a cylinder and then sorted but smells from the chimney.
Lots Road Dock, Chelsea Canal, 1900s
LT stores
114 Lots Road Pub and Dining was previously the Ferrett and Firkin in a Balloon Up the Creek and before that Balloon Tavern because if balloons which went from there in 1859. Features in films 'Castaway’
116 Features in films 'The Deadly Affair’.
Chelsea Wharf. Is an example of revived old warehouse buildings and was converted in 1979
Mallord Street
Mallord is the name used by Turner
6
5, 6 two taller houses. Bays with integral garage, is by W. D. Caroe, 1912, for Pern Morris of Elm Park Gardens a benefactor of St Peter, Cranleigh intended at first for his coachman.
13 home of A.A.Milne when it was no 11. Here, he wrote most of his works. Plaque erected 1979. Christopher Robin was born there.
28 built for Augustus John in 1913. the studio at the back was concealed behind a trim Dutch vernacular front.. Plaque erected 1981. Later the home of Gracie Fields
Mallord House is a studio house of 1911 for Cecil Hunt by Ralph Knott, the architect of County Hall, strikingly austere but well detailed version of brick vernacular in the Lutyens tradition; entrance recessed behind a round-headed brick arch with massive keystone, a shallow oriel above, very simple casement windows flush with the wall, clustered brick stacks. The punning cast-iron frieze of a hunting scene between the windows is by G. P. Bankart.
Milman Street
St.George's Home. TB Hospital Transferred from Metropolitan Asylums Board to London County Council
Mulberry Walk
Development in a low-key 'artistic' manner with small houses in an Arts and Crafts or neo- Georgian idiom by a variety of architects. The street frontages are deliberately varied in their materials, with plentiful use of the projecting bays and wooden door cases that required special exemption from the London Building Acts
2-4. as 14-16
3 1912 was the home of Leonard Stokes,
5 1913 home of the Danish designer Arild Rosencrantz, an odd, mannered stripped classical design in brick, with a pair of stone door cases
14-16 tone set by the sequence of 1913 by Alfred Cox and F. E. Williams where the dominant motifs are again grey and red brick, tiled dormers, and canted bays with sash- windows
Netherton Grove,
Bennett
Park Walk
Was Lovers Walk. Goat in Boots
An earlier c19 group remains
St Andrew with St John a replacement of an older chapel
School
9 Stanley Studios. Features in films 'Personal Services’.
Salvadors. Features in films 'Personal Services’.
Paulton's Square
Quieter, stuccoed after 1836.
Paulton’s Street
In contrast to the intimacy of the old village, regular stucco-trimmed terraces three balanced groups with raised centres, the westernmost of the polite suburban squares off King's Road
Plans of the 1850s Stanley Terrace 1840. Never finished - this was part of a Georgian tradition.
Rewell Street
1
2
Sanford Manor House in works 17th Walnut Trees, stairs and gates. Nell 1762 gunpowder manufacture and manufacture of saltpetre. Then 1780 pottery crucibles by Ruell. Then a cloth manufactory
Riverside Walk
Resumed at Chelsea
Russell Street
Sand End
Gate on the King's Road to keep it for the King in the eighteenth century
Back end of the Parish of Fulham. Tiny village in Tudor times
Sandford Bridge
Called sometimes Little Chelsea Bridge. Built 1762 by the Kensington turnpike trust. Called Bull Bridge after the pub
Slaidburn Street
South Bank:
New housing developments. Varied. Landmark of St Mary's church and view marred by blocks of flats behind. Old Swan Pub and draw dock
Tadema Road
39 workshops 1985 by Moxley & Frank introduce a spare post-modemnote; orange brick, with deep eaves on thin brackets.
Gates of Watney's Brewery, original gates of Cremorne Gardens
Uverdale Road
Features in films 'I Believe in You’.
54 Carlisle House. Features in films 'The Optimists’.
The Vale
Part of the Sloane Stanley estate, remained a secluded spot until the end of the c19, with a few detached houses, popular with artists. Its redevelopment began c. 1909, when it was extended to Elm Park Gardens,
1 de Morgan
2-8 a neo-Georgian block of flats with canted bays by Elms and Jupp.
2 Whistler
4-8
West side is mostly in grey and red brick and dates from c. 1913;
9-11 dated 1912
27 is the most out-of-the-ordinary, with a Venetian window in a jettied timber-framed wing projecting to the street
London Apprentice
Rectory Garden
Russian Peasant's House
Vicarage Crescent BATTERSEA
Odells barge builders
Recreation ground. Managed by Vestry of Battersea
44
42 former vicarage memories of one of the greatest modern 'saints', Edward Adrian Wilson, friend and companion of Captain Scott. but Wilson here from where he ran the Caius College Mission and worked at the Boys' Club run by the Mission. On the wall of the old Vicarage is a plaque in memory of Edward Wilson, put up then by the then London County Council.
new Vicarage next door was built in 1973. It is not a building of particular architectural merit.
Deralie House nineteenth century gate Royal Academy of Dancing
St.John's Estate 1931-4
Old Battersea House, originally the dower house to the manor and built by Sir Walter St John as a wedding present for his wife Joanna. This imposing house, built in the early years of the 18th century, can be visited by appointment. It has been lovingly restored by the Forbes family of America, for it was in a sad state of disrepair when the last owner, Mrs Stirling, died.
Wharfedale Road
Worlds End:
Mentioned by Congreve. A bit dubious. Sign of broken globe and fire and smoke. Charles II tea gardens, bowls. By side of Hob Lane old engravings. Different from now.
Development. Major landmark from the river. 742 homes and 8 acres open space, shops, schools etc. tried to get it human in appearance. 1977 destroyed an old part of Chelsea which had been called World's End. .
Chelsea Harbour
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Bagley’s Lane:
Was a house at end called Grove House 1456.
Former Townmead Road Schools. Now part of Chelsea School of Art, low, well detailed Edwardian Board Schools with dentilled gables.
Stanford Court, two-storeyed sheltered housing by the borough, c. 1986, with triple entrances grouped under quasi broken pediments - classical allusions invading the neo-vernacular. More relaxed at the back, where timber balconies overlook a moated garden.
Park imaginatively landscaped small - also a creation of the 1980s, with a circular green buffered enclosed sitting and play areas, one with an octagonal -children's centre.
Chelsea Harbour
An instant riverside town for the rich; hotel and housing c. 500 dwellings with attendant amenities for 4,000 people built in 1986-9 on derelict railway land at Chelsea Basin. Undertaken by P&O. it forms the focus of the development originated as a dock for the Kensington Canal. Initially in 1981 Ray Moxley and Peter Bedford envisaged a wider social mix than was achieved. The final scheme was carried out by Peter Bedford together with the Moxley Jenner Partnership and Chamberlin, Powell, Bon & Woods. A cheerfully 'inclusivist' mixture of eclectic styles provides a stage set around the marina. Underground car park for 1.350 vehicles. Shopping mall did not do well and was converted to a trade centre for the interior design industry. P&O sold it in 2000 to the Berkeley Group for £59m.
The Belvedere a twenty-storey tower as a landmark. Its profile is a faint echo of the campanile of St Mark's in Venice, with the additional spectacle of a golden ball on its summit intended to rise and fall with the tide. The housing ranges from versions of neo-Georgian terraces over garages, tightly packed and cheaply detailed, to sleek modernist flats in a crescent overlooking the river.
Marina. 50 berth
Chelsea Garden Marker, prominent roof-line where three glazed domes cover the atria of a covered mall with shops, offices, and workshops.
Harbour Yard, another complex with restaurants, offices, and workshops, has a facade to the marina with an unhappy mixture of classical elements: columns rising between two tiers of balustraded balconies - an overblown effect which competes for attention with the undulating balconies of the rather better composed
Conrad Hotel.by Triad Architects, seven storeys above a striped granite two-storey plinth. 160 suites, conference facilities and a health club.
Chelsea Basin (EwR/LNWK) Site of Hydraulic Pumping Station
Raillines. nothing remains of the networkof sidings here, and on the other side whichonce served the erstwhile ImperialGasworks.
Counters Creek
On the line of the railway
Fulham Extension Railway from West Brompton Station. Covered way in a cutting and then a brick viaduct, 'ornamental character' to please the ecclesiastical commissioners, 1870s.
Kensington Canal, was site of Counters Creek or Billingwell ditch 1820s enlarged up to Cromwell Road by a company and contracted to Mr. Hoof. Nationalised in 1947 and 1959 filled in except for access to the gas works, the only users by then. Last delivery there in 1967. Gasworks dock there with steel guillotine gate from 1946. Load of rubble. Above the dam was a lighter with its back broken. To King's Road canal bed there but full of rubbish
Querrin Street
37 Features in film 'Lassiter’.
Sands End
Area between King's Road, river and east of Wandsworth ridge Road called Sands End. Bed of sand under the soil. Sands Wharf Sands named for a sandy ford. Called ‘Sands End’ on the Ordnance Survey map of 1876 but earlier ‘atte Sonde’ 1408, ‘Sand end’ 1655, ‘Sandy End’ 1816, that is "district with sandy soil', from Middle English ‘sand‘ and ‘ende’. The first spelling means 'place at the sand', from Middle English ‘atte’ - 'at the'.
Townmead Road
Town meadows too damp for plough therefore hay. Features in films 'The Criminal’.
School part of Chelsea College of Art
Stanford Court
Park
Sainsbury's spreading hogs a prime riverside site. On the site of the Power station
Fulham Power Station 1938. Commissioned by CEB. Highest thermal efficiency in the country in 1948. Once one of the borough's proudest monuments 1936 jetty. Quite impressive, works beyond a sturdy utilitarianism 1901 designed by G. E. Baker It was planned as the largest municipally-owned generating plant in . the country.
Sands Wharf, a vast development of Bovis flats masquerades as minimal Hanseatic warehouses.
Macfarlane Lang Imperial biscuit factory. Closed down because of gas works pollution
Van der Bergh margarine works
Kops Brewery very successful
Fulham rubbish destructor
Townmead Estate and Comber House where the pottery was
Clapham Common
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Broomwood Road
111 Broomwood House, site where William Wilberforce lived, LCC plaque 'On the site behind this house stood, until 1904, Broomwood House- formerly Broomfield-where William Wilberforce resided during the campaign against slavery which he successfully conducted in Parliament' Plaque erected 1906
Cedars Road
Led down to Knowles's less ambitious Park Town Estate and it seems was intended as a direct route from Clapham to the fashionable West End. The terraces facing the common are of considerable importance for their date: 1860. The French pavilion roofs are amongst the first signs of that French Renaissance Revival in London which culminated in such buildings as the Grosvenor Hotel, also by Knowles, and fascinated for a time America as much as England. The details are robust and tasteless; note especially the barbarous, wholly un-French, round-headed window surrounds with their segment-headed windows and the space between the segment and the round top filled with gross foliage. The materials are pale Suffolk brick dressed with cement, the contrast especially apparent on the r. block, which has been cleaned.
45, remains of an opulent interior, with gilding, mirrors, and scagliola columns.
113-119 only remaining of the 42 villas in the road
Cedars Estate G.L.C. 1961-8 Colin Lucas, job architect, one of the first to mark the move away from tower blocks to a more intimate and human scale for housing estates. 381 dwellings at 90 people per acre, a trail-blazing example of the lower densities adopted in inner London in the 1970s. The layout must have been influenced by the c 19 villas: distinct three-storey blocks, linked by balconies. The bland white brick is relieved by dark segment-headed garage doors, in a rhythm of three and one, which screen small communal courts in front of the flats. There are also some small private gardens.
Broadmead, an old people's home, is by Trevor Dannatt & Partners, 1969.
St.Saviour's Demolished: 1860 Knowles
Clapham
Chatham House home of Sir Polydore de Keyser owner of Royal Hotel, Blackfriars. RC. Lord Mayor of London and Alderman
Clapham North Road
Home of Rev Andrew Drew, son of Admiral Drew of Peckham, Vicar of St Antholin
Clapham Road
No. 91 is a neat tower of offices, the first in this area 1968
Former Temperance andBilliard Hall of c. 1900, low, with a large curved gable to the street.
De Montfort Road
10 home of Commander Harrold. Registrar general of shipping and seamen 1921-1938 087
Fontarabia Road
Lavender Hill
5 The Cedars Pub
14 Microbar also called The Ink Rooms pub
47-49 The Puzzle Pub
102 Crown pub was a music hall
Ascension, Begun in 1876 by James Brook and completed by. T. Micklethwaite & Somers Clarke, c. 1882.. The church has a design of great simplicity. Ut it built of brick A bellcote, designed by Micklethwaite, was desgfroyed by a fire, c. 1978.
Marmion Road
Netherfold Road
London County Council Weights & Measures
North Road
William Henshaw, organist at Durham cathedral
111 Broomwood House, site where William Wilberforce lived, LCC plaque 'On the site behind this house stood, until 1904, Broomwood House- formerly Broomfield-where William Wilberforce resided during the campaign against slavery which he successfully conducted in Parliament' Plaque erected 1906
North side
5-9, a part stuccoed terrace of 1838
11 a small brick cottage close to the road, formerly one of a pair, c. 1700, much rebuilt. Excellent Victorian houses
12 set back, c. 1730, refronted after war damage to match 13-21. Excellent Victorian houses
13- 21 built by John Hutt, carpenter, 1714-20. It is a wholly urban terrace, as they were put up at the same time in other villages around London: Three storeys above basements, segment-headed windows, some doorways with segment-headed pediments. The houses vary in width and detail (partly because of later alterations) but the total effect is uniform. Excellent iron railings
13 was Hollyhurst, now Wren House
14 Church Buildings, Graham Green. Had coachway until 1955
15-21 Church Buildings
21 has a coachway as well
22-23 were replaced by painfully unsympathetic flats in 1934.
29 The Hostel of God. formerly The Elms built in 1754. Five bays, three storeys, with stone cornice and pedimented centre with Doric porch. Ground-floor rooms with marble fireplaces. Later wings, one converted to a chapel by W. H. R. Blacking, 1933) Plaque referring to it as the home of Charles Barry which says 'architect, lived and died here' plaque erected 1950.
30-32 The Cedars breaks The Georgian unity of the North Side with typically mid Victorian assertiveness. James Knowles Jun's, two identical five-storey blocks flanking the entrance to Cedars Road.
31 Bell
58-60 stuccoed (extended for Battersea College, 1905),
61 Georgian
62-63 Georgian much altered
Terraces - Barry may have built the grey brick and stucco on either side of Victoria Rise.
80 Springwell House, is of 1819, brick later partially refaced in stone.
St Saviour destroyed in the war designed by Knowles Jun
110 Alverstoke. Plaque to John Burns which says 'statesman, lived here’ He lived here from 1914. Plaque erected 1950.
111-112 Grove Mansions, 1896, brick and stone, are a prominent intrusion
113 Gilmore House. Built 1763 with bay and pedimented window, made symmetrical by an extension. There is an addition at the side of 1810 and at the back is a chapel by Philip Webb - added for Deaconess Gilmore, William Morris's sister - built 1896-7, with fittings by Webb and stained glass by Morris & Co. of 1911-13. Plaque to John Walter which says 'founder of 'The Times' lived here'. Plaque erected 1977.
1 Brownwood, W.Wilberforce
Holy Trinity. The second parish church, built in 1774-6 by Kenton Cause when the housing development around the common had begun, portico enlarged in 1812 by F. Hurlbatt, chancel in 1903 by Beresford Pile. The former window has been re-used as the window of the Lady Chapel. The rest of the church is a plain brick rectangle, with stone quoins and two tiers of windows. A small stone clock turret with octagonal belfry over the end. Plain interior; galleries on three sides on columns. Pulpit Noble simple woodwork of the original building date, originally taller. Of the same time the reredos and altar table. Organ case 1903 by Beresford Pite. Minor monuments only: two tablets by. Bacon Jun., one to John Castell f 1804, the other to the Rev. John Venn 1813, the zealous evangelical minister; also one with medallion bust of Bishop Jebb 1833, by E. H. Baily. Clapham Sect. J.Thornton very rich founded club and got the avowdson 1892. John Venn, rector. Act of Parliament to pull down the 12th century church of St.Mary now site of St.Paul's Rectory, colonnade added later, chancel galleries inside bombed in 1945, reopened 1952. Part of housing development 1872. Awkward standing turret, noble simple work. 1734 church built but very plain, took 1,400 people, and cost £11,000. Memorial to Thornton and John Jebb, Bishop of Winchester
Library by E. B. L'Anson, 1889, gabled, with Flemish Renaissance decoration.
Northcote between Wandsworth and Clapham Commons
Okeover Manor on site of Church Buildings
St. Mary Redemptorist church
St.Barnabas 1879 by W. Bassett-Smith. Ragstone, with a tower; striped brick inside.
Trinity Hospice. 2-acre park-like garden restored by Lanning Roper's friends as a memorial to him and designed by John Medhurst. Ricky's sculpture a feature. Stocked with shrubs and perennials, it features expanses of lawn, spring and summer herbaceous borders, a hidden wild garden containing a lily pond and a wildflower area, as well as some mature trees. The healing nature of this garden is highlighted by a 'blessing tree' hung with personalized blessings on copper tags, and a 'sitting circle' enclosed by soft pastel plantings of roses, lavender, , salvias and buddleia.
Woodlands on site of Church Buildings
North Street?
Northfield Road:
401 1902 LCC flats
office for Weights & Measures testers.
Coroner's Court; local taxation offices.
Queenstown Road
Anelaborate three-storey Gothic terrace,
Stormont Road
LSB School ok 1903
Sugden Road
24 Plaque to Fred Knee 'London Labour Party pioneer and housing reformer lived here'. Fred Knee was born in Frome, Somerset, one of four sickly children. A brother and sister died in childhood and Fred was to suffer all his life from respiratory problems. His parents worked in the spinning mills, his father weaved wool and his mother weaved silk; when there was work available. Fred, who never grew to more than 5 feet, thought when he was 15 that he was destined to become a missionary. He pursued this course for a while but gradually lost his religious faith. His missionary zeal turned towards the cause of Labour. At 13 he left school and took a job in a printer's shop in Frome. The printer printed the local newspaper and Fred became a reporter. He was now 20 and two years later he left Frome and came to London. He enrolled at the Regent Street Polytechnic and continued educating himself. A year later, 1892, he married Anne Francis, a fellow student and they came to live here. Fred joined the Fabian Society and devoted himself in aiding the underprivileged. He wrote many articles for "Justice" as well as keeping diaries that were published towards the end of his life. His best work was as Secretary of the Workmen's National Housing Council. An organisation that sought to provide the working class with basic housing. He wrote many pamphlets on many issues, not least his opposition to the Boer War which he regarded as imperialist. In 1901 he and his family moved to the countryside at Radlett in Hertfordshire. His work continued, despite increasing ill health, as he sought to warn about a possible world war. Plaque erected 1986.
The Close
50 1869 Marold.
84 Branson Factory 1875-1950.
Victoria Rise
Guerdon House. Sir Dennis Guerdon, Victualler to the Navy and Sheriff of London, 1663. Indian and Chinese curiosities. Pepys died there Sold 1760.
Macaulay School, foundation stone of Clapham Parochial School there
Victoria Road:
Home of Frederick Gorringe of the store
Captain John Wolf. Naval commander and slave ship commandeer
Vistry Drive
Mile stone 1745.
Wandsworth Road
Lambeth low-rise housing, 1979 by Clifford Culpin & Partners,
516 Plough Brewery and the front of the former ofc. 1870 with a big rusticated entrance arch. Good cast-ironrailings in the form of twisted cables with the initial ‘W’ forThomas Woodward, owner from 1868 to 1900. Cellar withcast-iron columns, like a crypt.
21 storey brutalist towers, front of old Plough Brewery, 1870, nice railings in the west building
518 Plough Inn occupies part of a symmetrical block of seventeen bays of veryplain cottages of c. 1810, with a pediment over the centre five.
Hibbert Almshouses, with crocketedcentre gable and Gothic detail, 1859 by Edward I'Anson.
827-837 are a commercial terrace of c. 1860 byKnowles jun.
636/8 Temperance Billiard Hall, c1910. The site was previously Meeks and later the South London, Brewery. bingo frontage addition.
401 factory of the short-lived Battersea wholesale Confectionery Co., 1890 - 1903
274 Bellhas nice tiles in the porch, "Webb & CO.. Tile & Mosaic Works.
West Side
In 1815 there were twenty large houses, of which five remain, somewhat altered, amongst the redevelopment which took place mostly from 1895 to 1908.
They all date from c. 1800:
83 three bays with large bay-window;
84
85
81- 82 a pair with Ionic porches
21, five bays
Battersea Rise House
Western Lodge
Wix Lane
Board School 1903 LSB a large three-decker on the more crowded fringe of Battersea, much terracotta decoration
Battersea
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Albion Avenue
Large estates of flats 1920/30s.
Clyston Street
Features in films 'Castaway’.
Corunna Road
Courland Grove
1840 Baptist Church
Guildford Road
St Barnabas, 1848-50 by Isaac Clarke & James Humphreys. A ragstone Gothic centrepiece to the contemporary classical Lansdowne Gardens.
Lansdowne Way
83 Priory Arms
Larkhall Rise
A few more c18-early c19 houses along
Linford Street
Stewarts Lane Station. 29thMarch 1858. London Brighton and South Coast Railway. Line to Penge Junction 1860 London, Chatham and Dover Railway. 1858 December closed . 1863 opened with entrance on the west side of Linford Street near Corunna Terrace . 1867 closed.
Netherfold Road
LCC Weights & Measures
Pensbury Place.
Features in films 'Janice Beard 45 wpm’, ‘Stormbreaker’.
Sibella Road
18, Small walled garden with formal framework softened by expressionist colour-themed planting. A path leads from Mediterranean-inspired patio to a tiny octagonal lawn. Terrace framed with lavender, dicentras, ferns and hostas and some more unusual woodland plants. An old bramley, white lilac, weeping pear and cloud- pruned ceanothus add height and are festooned with roses and clematis
St.Rule Street
Heathfield Primary School LSB An altered but still picturesque skyline of shaped gables, steeply pitched roof, and cupola.
74 Shaftesbury
Stewarts Lane
Junction ext. to new terminus at Waterloo 1860s
Stewarts Lane Station line to Penge Junction l860 London, Chatham and Dover Railway. To Crystal Palace open to Herne Hill l862.
Stewarts Road
Features in films 'My Beautiful Launderette’.
Stonhouse Street
Clapham Manor School. 1881 with later additions
Union Grove
Christ Church1861 By B.Ferrey, 1861-2; Kentish rag
vicarage by G. E. Street, with many hipped gables.
Union Road
SpringfieldEstate later additions by Lambeth to the G.LC estate show a change of heart witnessed in the staggered yellow brickterraces of family houses, with bay-windows and front andback gardens car park concealed beneath, 1975-6. Clunn said “A finenew housing estate “.
99 Prince of Wales
355
369 garden house
Clifford Walk
Wandsworth Road
Springfield Estate by theL.C.C., 1935, with large blocks of flats,
Housing by L. de Soissons and G. Grey Womumformerly a private estate, 1929-30, distinguished by ratherfussy neo-Georgian trimmings. the interior courtyardsbetter.
Carey Gardens the most interesting redevelopment is, a G.L.C. estate of 1970-7 NicholasWood, influenced by the March and Martin principles ofperimeter planning 403dwellings at 136 p.p.a. Unusual layout of two irregular four-storey concentric crescents around an open space, but thegrand design negated by excessive variety in the details seethe different window designs, and the complicated recessedcorners of the inner crescent. Brick with exposed concretebands.
Westbury Estate,the familiar mixed development of the 1960s, with two twenty-one-storey brutalist towers (1964-7). GLC
167 The Cider House
238-241 more flats.
238-246
372-37 6a few relics of decent-class earlier c19buildings: villas with Doric porches;
335-337, with Ionic porches,
553 etc f the 1820s modest cottages
827-837 Coraugh Terrace 1860.
93-7
South Bank Poly and Vauxhall College of Building. five storeys and cheery lecture theatre. 1970-4 by Shingler Risdon Associates. Five storeys on a plaza over a car park, with a clumsy projecting lecture theatre acting as a mammoth porch canopy.
Special railway station for Queen Victoria
St.George's
Wandsworth Road Station. 1st March 1863. 1916 closed.
Wandsworth Road Station. From 1866 trains from Clapham Junction to Ludgate Hill. Wandsworth Road platform adjoining
Kennington
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Aulton Place
Austral Street
27 Two Eagles. pub
Bird Street
Gone. End is Gilbert Road
Bishop’s Terrace
The Ship Features in films 'Melody’
Bowden Street.
Braganza Street
Walworth City Farm. 1987 derelict rubbish dump. Grows Asian and Afro Caribbean vegetables
Brandon Estate.
A cluster of white towers built in the late 1950s. The scheme was drawn up in 1955 for the L.C.C. Architect's Department by Edward Hollamby and six 18 storey towers were built. the estate was extended in the 1960s, with five 26 storey towers.. The early towers have recessed centres, and every four storeys is set back. On top are structures which house the services. Part of the estate is made up of other housing plus older terraces.
Branch Library with clubroom above, and a mural and other decoration by Anthony Holloway.
Henry Moore reclining figures. -Forlornly stranded on a grass mound near the towers is a noble sculpture by Henry Moore, Reclining Figure, set up as part of the idealistic post-war L.C.C.'s policy of modern sculpture in public places
Shopping Precinct. On the far side of the towers a long seven-storey range with projecting centrepiece and a passage through it
Forsyth Gardens
Brook Drive.
Lambeth Hospital. Infirmary Building and Lambeth Workhouse, 1873. Features in films 'Death Wish 3’.Lambeth Hospital. Developed from the infirmary buildings 1877 by Fowler & Hilt added to Lambeth Workhouse. Operating theatres by Yorke Rosenberg & Mardall, 1967
Neckinger down it
Burrup Place (not on az)
Cable hauled trams from junction to Streatham Library in Brixton Road 1895‑1904.
Cardigan Street
Terraces of cottages by Adshead & Ramsay, 1913. They are in a neo-Regency style, something very progressive at that time
castlebrook Close
Site of Lambeth Hospital.
Chester Way
For the Duchy of Cornwall. Later neo-Georgian housing by theLouis de Soissons Partnership
80‑l80 Georgian Terraces.
86‑88 114 132 1789, 91‑167 140‑162 164‑166.
1877 St.Mary's Church, 1872 inside grand Historical Society, Surrey City and Guilds, so Kennington Theatre,
178‑93, 95, 101, l75, 131, 75, l27, l33, 59 Vicarage
Royal Surrey Zoological Gardens between Kennington and Walworth Roads. 1831. Lake, music hall and everything else. Sold off in 1878. Three years after the London Zoo began, a zoo opened in Walworth in 1831. It was called Royal Surrey Zoological Gardens and the proprietor was Edward Cross who moved a menagerie from its original home in the Strand. The zoo had lions, tigers, elephants, llamas, a pair of dromedaries presented by the ruler of Egypt, and a giant tortoise on which children were able to ride. Five giraffes were brought from Africa by an Arab boy Fadlallah. A model of them is in the Cuming Museum. In 1848 Queen Victoria, Prince Albert and the royal children paid the zoo a visit. They were especially interested in a rather strange animal friendship - a tigress and a dog that lived in the same cage. The zoo closed in 1856 and nothing of it remains in the Manor Place area, where it was situated.
Kennington Station. 18th December 1890. Terminus of Northern Line from Waterloo. Between Oval and Elephant and Castle on the Northern Line. City London and Southwark Railway. Station tunnel 3ft deep brick lining and 20ft wide l6ft high and 20 ft long. Dome housed headgear and hydraulic lifts. One of the original stations on the first tube line. Now a listed building
Churchyard Row.
Churchyard Row.
London Park Hotel - Third Rowton House,. Setup 1896,architect, H. B. Measures, at the Elephant & Castle originally asa Rowton House having 805 cubicles for working men. It was the third in a series of 'Poor Man's Hotels' started by Montagu William Lowry Corry, Lord Rowton, 1838- 1903. He had been private secretary to Benjamin Disraeli.He made a survey of London's common lodging houses for the Guiness Trust and decided to establish working men's hotels. It opened on 23 December 1897. The best possible lodgings were provided for the small charge of 6d per night. The reading room contained a large variety of engravings representing scenes from Shakespeare. The smoking room was also decorated with engravings and stags' heads. It had its own rooftop gardens, built over the dining rooms. In 1903 additional land was acquired anda further 211 beds were opened. In 1941 a bomb hit the boiler room, demolishing part of the reading room above. There was a Second bomb in 1944;. . TGhere was a laundry, plus a furniture and an engineering shop for metal equipment, were adjacent.
Newington Estate
Pullen Estate
Wilberforce Mission House
Rowton doss house for 800 men,
Cleaver Square
Oblong of late c 18 to mid c 19 terraces formerly Prince's Square after the builder
48 Prince of Wales pub.
Sculpture of a recumbent figure, by James Butler, c. 1970.
Cleaver Square
48 Prince of Wales Cosy one-bar pub in corner of quiet square. Interesting tapestries and history of pub on wall.
18th 19th and sculpture 1970.
Cleaver Street
Cottington Street
Combines all the housing (andgaraging) within a series of A-frame ziggurats rising to ninestoreys. The internal corridors and upper level open 'streets'are rather sparsely done but there are generous upper gardenbalconies and nice planted walks at ground level. Apoint block one of those which form such distinctive jagged landmarks in South London. They use a Wates system to fit the design byLambeth Architects Department, and are the most extremeexample of attempts to make the tower form visually excitingin a brutalist manner
Cotton Gardens
Housing of the 1960s. One of the most extreme housing contrasts of the 1960s:three of Lambeth's concrete towers, segregated bygrass and trees
Courtney Square
Georgian Square built just before the First World War by the Duchy of Cornwall.
5 Features in films 'The Calcium Kid’.
Courtney Street
Estate regency style very progressive then.
5 Features in films 'The Calcium Kid’.
omnibus depot.
Dante Road
2 store. Many poor but a mixture of mechanics
Denny Crescent
Cottages by J. D. Coleridge, 1913
Fairford Grove (not on AZ)
Farmers Road
Farmer vitriol makers Farmer in 1858 factory founded in 1778
Gabriel Street (not on AZ)
Gilbert Street
Golden Place.
Gone, north of Kennington Lane and east of Chester Way
Hampton Street
35 Hampton Court Palace. Pub. Imposing interior with high ceilings
Hart Street
Gone, north of Kennington Lane and east of Chester Way
Hillingdon Street
Holyoak Road
Hotspur Street
Hurle Road
Kempsford Street
Kennington
Probably means ‘farm of a man called Cena’.or ‘place of the king’. ‘Chenintune’ 1086, ‘Kenintone’ 1229, ‘Kenyngton’ 1263. In 1337 given to the Black Prince and it has belonged to the eldest son of the king ever since. Part of the Duchy of Cornwall.
Kennington Park Road
Roman Road radiating from London Bridge opened up for suburban development by the opening of Blackfriars Bridge. Wide and tree-planted on either side some of the prettiest late Georgian terraces in South London. Modern flats, houses and shops line this pleasant thoroughfare but at the southern end, are numerous late Georgian houses with tree-filled front gardens.
St. Mary's Church built in 1877 Facing the road a fragment of the stone front and tower by Fowler, , sheltering the church of 1957-8 by A. Llewelyn Smith. The church is the successor to the medieval parish church of Newington which stood by the burial ground on the E side of Newington Butts.
Historical Society,
Surrey Zoological Garden site of 15 acres
City and Guilds of London Art School studios and classrooms
42 Old Red Lion pub Genuine olde worlde pub dating back to William III.
46 Mansion House pub. Dates to William III with oak beams and brick noggin. Cocktail lounge with piano bar.
59, the former vicarage of St Mary's, Gothic, 1873,
61-167 date from 1789-93. High quality
75, with Coade stone decoration
95, various designs, some with especially nice fanlights
101, various designs, some with especially nice fanlights
114-132 flanking the entrance to Cleaver Square, 1787-90 by Michael Searles for JosephPrince has someother Georgian terraces -
125, Various designs, some with especially nice fanlights
127, with Coade stone decoration
131 Various designs, some with especially nice fanlights
133 with Coade stone decoration
138 White Bear pub. Ex-coach house. Theatre in the rear. Comfortable, spacious trendy bar notable for settee seats, sewing machine tables and numerous mirrors on walls.
140‑162 1725
Denny Crescent, cottages 1913.
Kennington Cross
Kennington Cross gentsUnderground 'gents', 10 urinal 'stalls.' and one fish-tank cistern - a second was smashed by vandals in the 1970s
Metropolitan Cattle & Drinking Trough Association horse trough, disused. Note low-level trough for shorter creatures.
Kennington Road
Built up after Westminster Bridge opened up this part of Lambeth, still has a remarkably complete collection of late c 18 to early c19 terraces. Features in films 'Melody’.
104 etc. opposite, with stuccoed ground floors
111 Tankard pub. Spacious two-bar pub close to Imperial War Museum with comfortable panelled lounge.
121 etc. of the 1770s on the E side, with a variety of porches,
Junction of Kennington Road, an underground gentlemen's Convenience c. 1900, with original fittings (by Finch & Co. of Lambeth),
114-132 Michael Searles 1787
150 etc. date from 1840
169 Features in films 'Melody’
171 Ship Lively two-bar pub. The pub has a nautical theme with nets hanging from the ceiling and other artefacts.
233-291with a central pediment,
293 Charlie Chaplin’s pub, was previously The Roebuck.
309-341 date from c. 1787.
317 with a pediment inscribed Marlborough Houseby Michael Searles.
340 Cock TavernBack street local with small Public Bar.
St.Anselm
Vauxhall Manor School Annexe. Good example of T. J. Bailey's mature three-decker board schools with jolly Jacobean skyline. 1897, wing 1910
Baths
Balls Yard was 1870 London Tramways Depot.
St Philip, 1862-3 by H. E. Coe with chapel by H. S. Rogers, 1913, ragstone Decorated style. Demolished.
Old Town Hall Church of England Children's Society. Formerly Lambeth Vestry Hall Until 1908. After vigorous Local debate this building was erected on an island of waste ground in 1852-3 as the vestry hall, for the parish of St. Mary Lambeth. The architects were R Willshire & K Parris Originally it was single storeyed, though taller to the centre where a pedimented Tuscan portico has upper windows lighting the gallery to the vestry hall, which was aspsidal to the rear. The outer bays, which housed offices and a committee room, were raised a storey perhaps in 1872-3 making the portico much less dominant. After a period of use by a charity the building was restored in 1994.One of the earliest surviving municipal buildings in South London. Clumsy but quite imposing classical front. Nine windows in groups of three divided by pilasters. Pedimented Tuscan portico, surplus when Brixton town hall completed 1908.
Kennington Park Place.
5 Day Nursery. Built for Bishop of Rochester. By Norman Shaw, 1895. A very subdued Queen Anne facade of six bays.
Old chapel at the back with lunette windows and big eaves.
9 early c 19 altered, stuccoed, with Soanian incised pilasters and recessed entrance;
11 late Georgian
Kennington Theatreonce stood here
Kennington Lane
94 King's Arms. Modern Saloon Bar with pool table and juke box in Public Bar.
185 White Hart Modern furnished large saloon.
23l‑245 1791 offices for the Gin Distillers Co.
247 Pilgrim. Modern comfortably furnished interior.
355 Royal Oak Comfortable, friendly one bar local.
349 Duke of Cambridge
372 Royal Vauxhall Tavern
Herbert House c. 1860 is an orphanage to give pupil teachers of the school vicarage of 18th was a house of manager of Vauxhall Gardens, opposite
Site of first water works. South London Water Cos. works built in 1807 and burnt down six weeks later. Built two circular reservoirs on the site. 1854 altered and opened the space. Water taken from Washay, which came from Brixton into the Thames at Vauxhall. Built another works in 1827 at the foot of Vauxhall Bridge Cumberland Gardens. 20 hp engine from Kennington Lane. 142" tunnel into the middle of the river. Pumping water from the river to Kennington Lane reservoir. Then water from Vauxhall Creek was bad so they built big tunnel into the river and took river water only. Engine put there in 1840. Amalgamated with other companies in 1843. Closed 1847 and sold to Phoenix Gas Co.
St Anne R.C. 1903-7 by F. A. Walters, large, with side chapels between the buttresses inside, tall arcades, and an Arts and Crafts stencilled chancel.
St.Anne's House 1824. Soanian neo‑Greek complicated entrance. Note the pleasant entrance,
St.Peter's Schools boys and girls, and an art school, which became the school room 1863 231‑245 1791 offices for the Gin Distillers Co. Soup kitchen became the school room
St.Peter’s Church edge of area of Vauxhall Gardens, altar on the site of Neptune Fountain. By J. L. Pearson, the architect of Truro Cathedral, St John Red Lion Square, and St Augustine Kilburn. This was his first major town church, planned in 1860, built to a cheaper modified design in 1863- 4, for the Rev. Robert Gregory, together with schools, orphanage, and vicarage in the slum area that had developed on the site of Vauxhall Gardens.
Vauxhall Manor School 1897/1901 three decker board school.
Vicarage house of manager of Vauxhall Gardens
Knights Walk Scandinavian style
Features in films 'Melody’
Durning Library. Paid for by Miss Durning Smith. 1889. Lambeth benefited from the patronage of Sir Henry Tate, who lived at Streatham. Many South London libraries were designed by his protégé S. R.J. Smith. They are enjoyable examples of minor late Victorian municipal showmanship. In an elaborate polychrome Gothic, with arches of varied size, a gable, and a tower. (Opposite, in Kennington Lane, a rather exotic, pile
Imperial Court, the former Licensed Victuallers' School, by Henry Rose, 1836. Large, with a composite portico and pediment. A school would never have been so ambitious in its architecture before the c19, when higher education for the middle class became important enough to call for the monumental. An imposing pile with the swimming pool/drill hall, added in 1890. For the children of decayed Licenced Victuallers who are fed, clothed & educated” NAAFI moved in when kids moved to Slough 1921. Historical collection. Role of canteens in 2WW
155-157; with good door cases, c. 1776-80Duchy of Cornwall Estate Office.
109 etc., early c19, rehabilitated as part ofthe Cottingham Road housing scheme
Kennington Park
9, 11
Kennington Park Place.
5 for Bishop of Rochester Day Nursery
2 Simpson Maule and Nicholson manufacturing chemist 1885
Site of Wellington Mills Joshua Oakley & Sons manufacturers of emery, sand etc. three stores in the adjoining development.
Wellington Mills G.L.C. housing co-op.
St.Anselm. Planned in 1911 but not completed until 1932-3. By Adshead & Ramsay, architects of the adjacent Duchy of Cornwall housing. Plain, yellow brick, Early Christian in character. Bare interior with open timber roof. Short nave. Arcades with cushion capitals carved by A. H. Gerrard. No transept, long chancel. Baldacchino over the high altar. The original plan was for a cruciform building with central dome. Mural below the clerestory. 1971 by Norman Adams. Abstract design
Vicarage, 1913
Knights Walk.
A broad paved pathwith crisply designed, rather Scandinavian-looking one- andtwo-storey houses, flat-roofed, of pale brick with dark boarding
London Road
Elephant and Castle station. 18th December 1890. Terminus of Bakerloo Line from Lambeth North. Between Borough and Kennington on the Northern Line. City and South London Railway between King William Street and Stockwell. The station was similar in design to that at Kennington. 1920s Northern line station partly rebuilt. 1960s Northern Line station rebuilt during the construction of the Elephant & Castle shopping centre and roundabout . 2003 Northern Line station modernised with a New extension entrance from Skipton Street. 5THAugust 1906 Opening of Baker Street and Waterloo Railway from Baker Street to here with the terminus and the building of a typical Leslie Green structure.
Lucretia Road
Longville Road
Poor. Some prostitutes but not like Gabriel Street. Dead, dismal street.(Booth)
Manor Place
Doctor's surgery, 1992 Penoyre and Prasad Any resemblance between the qualities of this incredibly dense, complex and tightly packed piece of architecture and Cullinan's Lambeth centre is more than coincidental - Penoyre and Prasad worked on that project too.
Mansion House Street.
Gone. Was south side of Kennington Lane
Mechanics, carmen. A shade better than Opal Street (Booth)
Methley Street,
2-storey and 5-storey. All the same, dull and depressing, fair backs. Mechanic compositors, no poor. Rent 20/- a week (Booth)
Milverton Street
2-storey and 5-storey. All the same, dull and depressing, fair backs. Mechanic compositors, no poor Rent 20/- a week. Out of the west side. Is Wigton Place. "Small cab owners, about two horses each." (Booth)
Monkton Street
Lambeth Community Care Centre, 1985 Edward Cullinan Architects This community care facility – accommodating a 20 bed community care centre, with day care for 35 and its own therapy and nursing staff-provides local hospital attention and specialist medical services. It is an unusual commission for the 1980s and has probably attracted more attention from northern European architects than British ones.
Newington
Newington . ‘Neuton’ c.1200, ‘Niwentone’ 13th century, ‘Newenton’ 1258, ‘Neuwyngton’ 1325, that is 'the new farmstead or estate', from Old English ‘new’ - oblique case ‘niwan’ and ‘tun’. Grew up as a farming area after Lambeth Palace brought more traffic on the Kent road. Got a reputation for making clay pipes. Henry Penton was a big landowner who began to sell for building.
Newington Butts
Newington Butts is recorded as from 1558 and recalls the site of the old archery butts here either archery or family name. Main road that soon becomes Kennington Park Road. It has an historic name for in 1538, when archery became a compulsory exercise for all citizens, butts were set up here. Somewhere here, too, Joanna Southcott founded her meeting house with Mr. Carpenter, her main disciple. Later the two quarreled and Joanna went off to Lambeth to repeat the process with a Mr. Tozer. Faraday was born in 1791 in Newington Butts. He began his career as a bookbinder's errand boy in Marylebone but later, when he attended lectures at the Royal Institution, he came under the patronage of Sir Humphrey Davy who fostered his scientific inclinations. Faraday's inventions were too numerous to catalogue but any single one of them could have made him famous. In later life he moved to a house at Hampton Court and he died there in 1867.
17 Butts Free House. No real ale.
22 Leisure Centre1878/80. Elephant and Castle Recreation Centre. By the swimming pool there's a pink elephant. Large, low complex incorporating swimming pool, sport centre, etc. By Southwark Architect's Department, 1978
140 Plough and Harrow pub. Lively comfortable two-bar timber panelled
146 Cricketers pub
St.Mary's churchyard. Church pulled down in 1876 and now in Kennington Park Road. Medieval church rebuilt in 17th and pulled down for road widening 19th. 1877 now an attractive little park with flowers and grass and a rather monstrous clock tower. Various churches stood here in the past including Norman, medieval and Georgian buildings. At one of the churches the parents of Samuel Pepys were married. Clock tower given by R.S.Faulconer. Managed by Newington Burial Board
Metropolitan Tabernacle. Although it has been given a "face lift" the Baptist tabernacle has remained virtually unchanged through all the changes at the "Elephant". The first tabernacle was built in 1861 but was burnt down in 1898. The second building perished by enemy action in 1941 but it was again rebuilt and 1959 saw the present building, with 1,750 seats, opened for worship. In addition to the church and gallery, the tabernacle has an extensive crypt, a large Sunday school hall and a wide range of offices as well as very strikingly designed glass-fronted baptistery on a mezzanine floor level. Spurgeon's Tabernacle 1865 original Surrey Tabernacle. Built in 1861 for Charles Haddon (d. 1892), the Baptist preacher, and rebuilt after a fire in 1898. It was gutted by bombing, but being rebuilt. Spurgeon's Tabernacle 1865 original Surrey Tabernacle. Rebuilt 194l, 1,750 seats.
G.L.C. housing of 1982-3
Newington EstateSouthwark Borough Council 1971-7; low yellow-brick terraces.
The Drapers livery company created Walters' Almshouses on a site now at the southern intersection island in 1640, giving the tower block opposite its name 'Draper House'. The almshouses were relocated to Brandon Street in the 1960s as part of the major redevelopments here.
Draper Estate L.C.C 1962. High-rise flats over shops, with one twenty-five-storey tower. On the side lower public buildings. Draper House. Features in films 'Empire State’, ‘The Strange Affair’.
16 Bar South Central was Draper's Tavern
Monkton Street.
Gone, Line of Gilbert Road
Booth: Mechanics, postmen, meat salesmen.
Oakden Street
Booth: like Monkton Street
Opal Street.
1950 Lambeth tower blocks. . Densely packed group mixed heightsup to nine storeys, enlivened only by some Festival-style tiledbalconies and brickwork
Radcot Street
Booth: 2-storey and 5-storey. All the same, dull and depressing, fair backs. Mechanic compositors, no poor. Rent 20/- a week
Ravensdon Street,
Booth: 2-storey and 5-storey. All the same, dull and depressing, fair backs. Mechanic compositors, no poor. Rent 20/- a week
Regency Place
Gone – part of a maze of streets south of Kennington Lane and east of Cleaver Square
Booth: Regency Square out of its East side. Poor, quiet. 2-storey. Labourers. At the South East end is Diamond Place. 2-storey houses on south side only
Renfrew Road.
42 Court Tavern
Lambeth Hospital polychrome brick gate piersand lodges t
Magistrates' Court 1869 by T. C. Sorby, brickand stone, Tudor Gothic (court room with open timber roof),
Fire Station, 1868, enlarged 1896 by a tallasymmetrical building with Jacobean gable. By the L.C.C. FireBrigade Department under Robert Pearsall. The earlier partplainer, with slightly Gothic window details.
Orient Street
Oswin Street
Was Temple Street.
Penrose Street
Walworth main works original L.C.C Tram Depot 1891
Reedworth Street
Renfrew Road
Former fire station, c.1910 – note look-out tower above.
Magistrates' Gourt of. 1869 - a sharp contrast with the County Court
Lambeth Hospital, A large rambling site, closed as a hospital in 1977 Built 1872
St.Anne's Place
1‑17.
Stables Way
Site of Kennington Palace stables.
Houses, maisonettes, and studios (1967), in yellow brick, blending well with the older cottages.
Stannary Street
37 Alderman. Pub with haunted cellars
Sullivan Road
St .Mary's Square
Tyer Street
Flats
Walcot Square
1837/9.
198 actress Sarah Poole
Walcot Stores Features in films 'The Krays’.
Walcot Square
1837/9.
233 291 309 241 l787.
317 with pediment from Marlborough House.
Walnut Tree Walk
Some good late-18th-century houses
Roots and Shoots, wildlife garden with large summer meadow, beehives, observation beehive, old roses, echiunis, 2 large ponds. Wildlife displays, nest box cameras, activities for children and adults. Hot borders, Mediterranean mound. Run by innovative charity providing training, garden advice and plant sates. Fine walnut tree and Acacia dealbata.
White Hart Square.
Gone – was south of Kennington Lane and east of Cleaver Square
White Hart Street.
Gone – was south of Kennington Lane and east of Cleaver Square
Wincott Street
Shelley School, matches mood of Knights Walk
Windmill Row
Brixton
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Acre Lane
206-216 humbler cottages
3-9 South Sub Co-op
46-52 relics of early c 19suburban houses three-storey terraces
53-57 smaller villas
53 Acre Lane Garage. The 1920's facade, of Escott, motor van builders and for a short time, Carrimore Coaches. Later a timber store.
79 New Imperial Laundry, washing shed 20 shops in London. Sunlight laundry until 1976.
86/8 Cheltenham Works of Rodent Co Int. where "Cheltenham Mineral Water" was concocted. The firm invented the Crown cap.
Pall MallCleaners Great-West-Road-style factory of the 1930s
Trinity Homes,almshouses of 1822-6 by James Bailey & Wiltshire, nine bayswith raised pedimented centre and Doric porch. Rangebehind with former washhouse, also pedimented. Another range1806 by Field.
5-9 former South Suburban Cooperative Society.
46-52 53-57 206-218
Factory Pall Mall Cleaners 30s
Trinity Asylum, wash house
Barrington Road
Junction LCD railway line to Peckham Rye built by Brighton in l864.
Bon Marche depository
Brighton Terrace
Empress Theatre of Varieties, more recently Granada Cinema and latterly a bingo hall.
Brixton Hill
Is this where the Brixi’s boundary stone was. Part of the slope going up to Streatham. A Roman road is was previously called Brixton or Bristow Causway.
Brixton Hill
Fridge this was the Palladium Cinema and had a baroque facade, since removed.
Hambrook House. ACE emblem for Amalgamated Construction Equipment Ltd.
1920s small garage and three charas lorry and coach private buses kept there in the 20s.
Landry and Co. Haulage Co not made the money from renting space to bus operators, entrance from Water Works Road became the Cambrian-Landray group garage. Later used by LT for Green Line and private hire buses. Lambray Garage still there.
Brixton Cinematograph. Pykes Cinematograph Theatre later became the Clifton and then Royalty. 1910-1957.
Sports shop in reality Pyke's Cinematograph Theatre of 1910
billboard support frame. only part to remind one it was once a cinema is outside.built in 1911 and run by Montague Pike, a big cinema entrepreneur - it closed in 1957.
Raleigh Courtfrom the earliest stage of post war development
New Park Court from the earliest stage of post war development
Brixton Road
Lambeth Town Hall. Built for the Metropolitan Borough of Lambeth in 1906-8 to house the borough’s offices and civic suite. It was designed by Septimus Warwick and Herbert Austen Hall winners of a competition assessed by Henry T Hare. An intended -assembly hall was not added until 1935-8 to designs by the same architects. It occupies a prominent triangular site, with an assertive tower at its apex. Lively elevations of red brick and Portland stone and a dominant tower, carrying muscular sculpted allegorical Figures representing Justice, Science, Art and Literature - a big hefty blacksmith directly outside Buckingham Palace and figures on the Albert Memorial. The processional route from the entrance up the principal staircase to the first floor civic suite is embellished with polychrome floors made up of black, white, and green marble and plaster work incorporating coats of arms, swags, drops and cherubs' heads. Queen Mary opened the new bit in October 1938. In the entrance hall, a plaque of a wheelwright's shop, by Tinworth.
Palladium. Another 1930 cinema next to the Town Hall, designed in a similar architectural style - now converted with a modernist front as a nightclub.
St Anne's terrace home of Susannah Spurgeon before marriage
179-137 Jebb.
195 Alfred Sands & Co dyes
407-409 Beehive. single-bar pub which attracts a wideranging clientele. Good quality beer is guaranteed in this typical Wetherspoon's outlet. The wood-panelled walls display pictures of the area around the 1930s.
Ceylon Road
199/213 1905 branch of Williams bakeries.
Clapham High Street
Clapham North Station, Deep shelter in 2WW. Built by LT as agents for Minister of Home Security with sleeping accommodation for 1,200 people. Ten shelters each of two parallel 1,400 ft tunnels l6' 6" diameter. Used to so that they could be part of an express railway in the future military use for a long time. Used by the public. 1942 underneath underground station to be linked after war to high speed tube never built. 1 parallel 1,200 tunnels on two floors with iron bunts. Right angle extensions for first aid, wardens and ventilation and lavatories below street level so sanitation in hoppers under the work. Post-war all the shelters as temporary hostels – general ad hoc hostel. It was for example used to house the 1948 'HMS Windrush' West Indian emigrants (who then established themselves in nearby Brixton) and Coronation and Festival of Britain visitors.
Clapham Road
Lane L.C.C. depot.
Effra Parade
Garage of J.Wine haulage contractors rented garage space to private buses in the 20s
355 one of a good stretch of late c18 houses again,with an excellent door case with largedelicate fanlight.
369 The Garden House is a grandertype, with two bow windows and side entrance.
St.John, 1840 by T. Marsh Nelson. Hexastyle Ionic portico. A very late example of the classical style for the Church of England
Combermere Road
Marquis of Lorne Pub comer of Mordaunt with a yellow, green and brown tiled ground floor facade.
Effra Parade
Garage of J.Wine haulage contractors rented garage space to private buses in the 20s.
Electric Avenue
Ferndale Road
Terraces and houses of c 1870designed by T. Collcutt, and built by Jennings, an enthusiast for terracotta, as the details in a mixture of styles show
Rogers Almshouses three linked late c 19 pairs,
Gresham Almshouses 1882, one-storeyed, with a steeproof with terracotta finials.
Site of garage for private buses in the 1920s, Fleur de Lys bus 1920s.
Hethrington Road
Doctors surgery
Landor Street
St.Paul's Chapel built 1767 ext 1810 rebuilt 1867.
St Andrew, A chapel was built in 1767, extended in 1810, and remodelled in 1867 by H.E. Coe with Romanesque w end and tower. Vestries and chapel 1891 and 1894 by A.J. Pilkington. Galleries removed 1924.
Horse trough. Disused two-bay granite trough by the Metropolitan Association.
70 Landor . Huge, vibrant Victorian one-bar pub, with carved mahogany fittings. engraved mirrors behind the bar, and the unusual artifacts displayed around the bar. upstairs theatre is in action
London Road/Kings Avenue
Horse trough Met.
Loughborough Park
Preserves the name of Loughborough House, marked on the Ordnance Survey map of 1816, so called because it was the residence of Henry Hastings, created Lord Loughborough in 1643. The area was developed as a residential district after the house had been pulled down in 1854.
Early developments in the area following the arrival of the railways. Terraced housing for the lower middle classes.
1840s villa developments.
Flats. In 1939 Edward Armstrong designed estate 400 flats in 5 storey slabs for Guinness Trust. Departure from L.C.C type flats. Influential in Dutch looking yellow brick.
Porden Road and Bucknell Road
Some garage for buses in the 1920s Shaw and Berry Garage now local government offices.
St.John’s Crescent
Villa developments of the 1840s
St.Matthew’s Road
1-5 1825/7 onlyworthwhile group left elegant villas with Greek Doric doorways.
Congregational church. 1828 very charming in its surroundings., stock brick, with a little Greek Doric porch in antis and round-headed windows, matching the few older villas left amidst the recent housing estate
St.Matthew's. Yet another 'Waterloo' church, this one by C. F. Porden, 1822. An interesting and successful solution to the Church of England problem of the Georgian period as to how a portico and a tower can be combined. The usual solution introduced by Gibbs at St Martin-in-the-Fields is never entirely happy. Here the tower is boldly moved to the end, and nothing interferes with the appreciation of the Greek Doric portico with four giant columns in antis. The tower has a tall ground floor with one window, a first upper stage with Greek Doric columns, and a second thinner and octagonal. Subsidiary entrances into the church on the sides of the tower. The body of the church is of stock brick with Grecian window surrounds. The window has two Doric columns, even inside. The church was gutted in 1976, when the first stage of its conversion into a community meeting place was completed, leaving the original organ in place in the gallery and a chapel at the end of the ground floor. There were originally three galleries on piers. Fine Grecian communion rail of iron. It HAS A Circular font with Greek-key and egg-and-tongue motifs. It has many monuments T. Simpson 1835 by Sievier; two heads in medallions. George Brettle 1835 by R. Westmacott. Charles Kemp 1840 and R. Gibbs by H. Weekes, and some other tablets. Gutted in l976 became a community meeting place. The Original organ loft and chapel are still there. Pulpit and lectern from St.Michael Wood Street in the City. Church built as development grew throughout the area.
Churchyard. large monument to Richard Budd of Russell Square 1824, by R. Day, solid neo-Greek, in three stages of decreasing size, the Grecian and Egyptian motifs of Soanian derivation. Dedicated as a Peace Garden.
House outside was called Church Road and Prince of Wales garage run by Bull Brothers for private buses. Wilson Optimist bus, The Lea Rig.
Clapham north built as 2WW deep shelter. Used by the public. 1942 underneath underground station to be linked after war to high speed tube never built. 1 parallel 1,200 tunnels on two floors with iron bunks. Right angle extensions for first aid, wardens and ventilation and lavatories below street level so sanitation in hoppers under the work.
Stockwell Green
Former brewery of Edmund & Thomas Waltham, 1880. Part used as ambulance garage. Corner Combermere Road.
Stockwell Park Walk
Small park. Features in films 'South West 9’.
Stockwell Road
146-166 Queen's Row dated 1786, a much abused survivor of theusual late Georgian terrace housing.
Trinity Gardens
45 Trinity Arms. Small local pub. Single-bar pub, a few yards from Brixton town centre. built in 1850, named after Trinity Asylum which stood in nearby Acre Lane, and was founded in 1824 by Thomas Bailey.
Limehouse
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Alton Street
A largeI expanse of LCC housing of 1958-61.
Barchester Street.
A large expanse of LCC housing of 1955-5 .This post-Festival expansion of Lansbury demonstrates the new confidence of the LCC Architect's Department in reaction to the cosy villagey character of the Festival area. This is mixed development on a grand scale, with terraces interspersed with eight eleven-storey point blocks
Bartlett Park
Provided as a new open space. In the heyday of the tower block the open expanse inevitably attracted tall buildings on its fringe, built as part of neighbouring LCC estates. The park itself was left as an almost featureless sea of grass around a strangely fortress-like cluster. Its centrepiece is St Saviour's church, surrounds.
Arcadian self-build housing of 1987-9, designed by the Beavan Sutlers Partnership. The enterprise was planned from 1983 and inspired by the Great Eastern self-build housing on the Isle of Dogs. A wide variety of house types and sizes, nicely grouped, especially on the entrance side. Conventional neo-vernacular detail.
Anglesey House a ten-storey tower of 1959-61, dressed up some thirty years later with curved roof, glass balconies and colour
Brabazon Street
Some later low-rise infilling in the middle 1976-7 by the GLC.
Bygrove Street,
Jellicoe again, a three-storey terrace with front doors to ground-floor flats and the upper dwellings with roof gardens reached by side entrances.
Canton Street
A terrace
Chilcot Close
Pleasantly simple three-storey terraces with pitched roofs and small balconies. Entrances in side passages allow for larger rooms.
Chrisp Street
Ideas Store. Mix of library and learning spaces
Langdon Park Station. 2008 Between All Saints and Devons Road on the Docklands Light Railway. Site reserved for a station from the opening of the line – but it was to be called Carmen Street.
Cotall Street
A long six-storey range maisonettes, 1961, in a more austere Corbusian spirit, with powerful concrete exposed grid dividing the individual unit.
East India Dock Road
Built in 1806-12 as an extension of the Commercial Road, made in 1802-11 as a link between Whitechapel and the West India Docks. The completed route was intended to take traffic from the East India Docks to the Company's Cutler Street warehouses in the City of London. The road is now part of the grimy A13.
2-50 terrace of ordinary houses 1850-60, perhaps by George Alexander, architect to the Conant estate, whose property this was.
52 London and County Bank, former branch 1885 by Zephaniah King, very old-fashioned but dignified. Attached Greek Doric columns round the ground floor and for the comer porches.
121-131 Queen Victoria Seamen’s Rest. Another seamen's home, the Seamen's Mission of the Methodist Church 45 fronts the road with a long block of 1951-3, which builds up in the centre in a 1930s way. Chapel plain except for stained glass by Goddard & Gibbs. The earliest part of 1901-2, free c 17-style with a cupola on the entrance tower, extension 1932. All parts of he mission are by the same practice, called Gordon & Gunton b 1901-2, Gunton & Gunton by 1932. The Mission is Methodism’s only residential hostel for seamen.. On the site of the Magnet pub. The original Methodist Chapel was in Cable Street and then moved to Commercial Road and then here. Bed and breakfast hostel run as a charity.
133 appears to be a stuccoed Late Georgian terrace, much altered. There is now no clue to its original role is a seamen's home, built by George Green of the Blackwall in 1839-41, nor to its former dignified appearance, with Doric colonnade and balcony filling the recessed five-bay centre. Converted to social housing c. 1983 by Anthony Richardson’s’ Partners. The first private sailor’s home. For a while it was the Board of Trade Offices.
153 Palm Cottage, a Beautiful Georgian style villa of 1834 with canopied veranda and Doric porch, converted to a hostel by Anthony Richardson & Partners, 1983-4. Built for Thomas Ditchburn, shipbuilder of Blackwall. He built over 400 ships at Orchard Yard, and probably the most memorable was the HMS Fairy, which he built in 1845 for Queen Victoria. It was, "The most perfect gem that ever floated in the water."
154 Pope John House. It was built as the Anglican Mission to Seamen by Sir Arthur Blomfield, 1892-4. Jacobean domestic-style. Later in the 1930s the Mission moved to the Royal Docks and these buildings became the Commercial Gas Company's Co-partnership Institute. Bought by the RC parish of St.Mary and St.Joseph converted into a club and social centre in the 1960s. Sold to a developer in the 1990s.
253 Poplar Mosque, A steel-framed building of 1938-9, built for clothiers; later a snooker club. A mosque since 1997. Two large prayer rooms on the upper floors, the front given windows with coloured glass in 2002.
Co-partnership Institute.
George Green School. Built in 1828, one of the many schools set up by George Green, shipbuilder of the Blackwall Yard, who was a prominent local Nonconformist philanthropist. The first school was on the corner of Chrisp Street, and later moved to the site of Monastery House in 1884. In the 1960s a new School was built near Island Gardens and this building houses a sixth-form centre. It was designed by John Sulman, and has a Northern European picturesqueness with bold High Victorian stripes of brick and stone and an Arts and Crafts feeling in asymmetrical window. There is a tower with a which forms the roof to the girls' entrance and screens the classroom block. The Boys' entrance also has a tower with a timber lantern. Rising behind is a galleried hall. Laboratory block by William Clarkson, 1902
Gorsefield House. Part of Brushfield Estate. Some other, then fashionable, mural decoration on in the tiles with abstracted Docklands motifs.
Hind Grove Estate the well- landscaped fringe of the, the western- most housing site completed 1952.
Houses – a few remaining houses of the earlier c19
Site of Howrah House. Duncan Dunbar’s son, also called Duncan, built a fine mansion. How House, in East India Dock Road in 1790. This house was later bought in 1881 and became the Convent of the Faithful Companions, and a select girls' school. The first Reverend Mother was Madame Veronica Connolly It was a girls' school until World War Two. The ruins were demolished in 1950 to create Saracen Street and build the blocks of flats
Manor Lodge on the corner of Hale Street recalls the old Manor House of Poplar.
The manor house of Poplar stood on the site of the present Duff Street, on the north side of the road. It was granted to Sir Gilbert Dethick by Henry VIII, together with an acre of land. In the 18th century Jeremiah Wade owned the property, but by 1800 it was in a dilapidated condition and in 1810 it was pulled down during the building of the East India Dock Road and rebuilt on the south side opposite. Mrs Mary Wade, widow of Jeremiah Shirbutt Wade (d.1806), and her five daughters were then owners of the property - Elizabeth Chrisp Willis, Susannah Grundy, Sarah Kerby, Sophia Duff and Catherine Wade and their parents have given their names to at least 14 streets in the area. By the 1850s the manor house was occupied by a Thomas Westhorpe and later rented by Dr M. Comfit surgeon. In 1933 the house was sold to the Commercial Gas Company and demolished
Poplar Hippodrome. Site is on the corner of Stainsby Road. Built as the Prince’s Theatre 1905 it was a cinema by the 1920s. Demolished in 1950 following bombing.
Stone marking the Site of St. Stephen’s Church. Built in 1867 and damaged by bombing in 1945.
St Mary and St Joseph RC Church, By Adrian Gilbert Scott, planned 1950, and completed 1954. as a replacement for a church by W. Wardell, 1856, destroyed in the Second World War. The opening of its predecessor on 24 September 1856 was celebrated by an after Service "Dejeuner" at The Brunswick Tavern, at 5/6 per head.
Trinity Church. By Cecil C. Handisyde and D. Rogers Stark, 1949-51. A replacement for the Congregational church of 1841 by William Hosking, paid for by George Green, destroyed in August 1944. Built in time for the Festival of Britain's demonstration of post-war building at Lansbury. Adjoining memorial hall land club room, the upper part of the latter later converted to flats. Refurbished by E.D. Mills, after the Methodists took over the building in 1976. Some furnishings including a stained glass window by Frank O. Salisbury, 1933, were brought from their previous building. In 1976 Poplar Methodists moved here the Royal Arms, unique in Methodism. These originate from an occasion when Queen Victoria's carriage broke down nearby and she took refuge in the Mission until she could resume her journey. The original mission site is now occupied by a housing development, William Lax House. Six churches in Poplar destroyed by bombing. . Only Trinity Church was rebuilt as part of the Festival of Britain.
Urban Learning Foundation courtyard of flats and teaching rooms by Paid Hyett opened 1992, discreetly and lovingly detailed. Extended in 1997 by PRP, with new facilities for this teacher-training centre.
Elizabeth Close
Pleasantly simple three-storey terraces with pitched roofs and small balconies. Entrances in side passages allow for larger rooms.
Fawe Street/Clutton Street Footbridge
South Bromley Station. 1st September 1884. Built by the North London Railway. Closed 23rd April 1945. The site is marked by Fawe Street/Clutton Street footbridge. The original trackside walling remains by theposition of the former South Bromley station,which is marked by the public right of wayfootbridge linking. his crosses the line near the north endof the old station site. Etched stone panelsrelating to the Far Famed Cake Company, presumably erected to attract the eye of railwaypassengers, were visible here for many years,
Etched stone panel on the west side which promotedSt. Georges' Kapok Mills.
Gates Street
Site of the original St.Mary and St.Joseph’s chapel. Built in 1856 and demolished by a land mine on 8th December 1940. . The site is marked by a mound
Gough Walk
The expansion of Lansbury in the 1950-60s was at first entirely by LCC architects, but in 1970 Shepheard, Epstein and Hunter were brought in by the GLC to design an extension.
Grundy Street,
Pleasantly simple three-storey terraces with pitched roofs and small balconies. Entrances in side passages allow for larger rooms.
Heckford House, Poplar housing of 1920, yellow and red brick with mansard roof vaguely Queen Anne style, named after the Borough Surveyor Harley Heckford.
Shaftesbury Lodge Old People's Home, a 1990s replacement for Lansbury Lodge of 1951 by Booth & Ledeboer, demolished after a fire.
Lansbury
So much of Poplar was demolished by enemy action, that when the Festival of Britain was planned, Poplar was part of the live architectural exhibition, with various architects invited to design blocks of flats and houses on what is now the Lansbury Estate, named after George Lansbury the popular councillor, mayor and Member of Parliament, who was so beloved of his community.
Live architecture exhibition planned by Gibberd. 1949. Widespread publicity – the first post war scheme to do so. Cost £1,600,000, called Lansbury after the late Mr George Lansbury from the local M.P, first Commissioner of Works in the second Labour government. Here flats, houses, schools and a shopping centre were erected. The LCC bore the main cost, including the purchasing and clearing of the site of 30 acres, but the Festival of Britain authorities contributed substantially towards the cost of buildings which were the 'live architecture' section of the 1951 Festival.
Limehouse Cut
Opened 1770, at the suggestion of Thomas Yeoman following Smeaton's report of 1766. Connects the River Lee Navigation, at Bromley to the Thames at Limehouse, obviating the need to go round the Isle of Dogs.
Bridge provided in 1890 by Poplar Board of Works
Malam Gardens
The modest houses built for Commercial Gas Co. for their employees, 1934-6 by Victor Wilkins, back on to the main road three rows of cottages along three private lanes. Originally completely gas-powered: there are still-working gas lamps in the lanes. Now sought-after residences. On the site of the manor house.
Market Square
The entrance from East India Dock Road opposite Poplar Baths, is through the least appealing of later additions, the ungainly GLC extensions with flats and maisonettes raised upon a concrete podium and shops
Ideas Store. Transformed by the built on podium in 2003-4. When the square was laid out older buildings still remained on the s side, so only two aides were new. One side remained open to Chrisp Street the original site of the street market. The square is covered by aggressively large canopies on steel posts, installed in the 1990s to replace most of the covered meat and fish stalls.
Clock Tower completed 1952, has an open scissor-plan doubtless intended to provide access to and from a public view. Dwarfed by the canopies, and even more so by the Wharf towers on the horizon, it stands wired off and a monument to the lost innocence of the 1950s.
Market Way
The clock tower, and the three-storey shopping terraces on the sides were designed Frederick Gibberd, who had suggested the idea at the lecture exhibition adopted by the Festival.
Young Prince pub, by Norman & Dawbarn 1962-3.
North Street
The only route north from Poplar was via North Street. The road going northwards was about half a mile long, turning into a cart track and losing itself on Bow Common
Pekin Close
small houses, now so altered that their early character is hard to discern although the ornamental street bollards are original. a small group of semi-detached houses, a rarity at Lansbury,
Pekin Street
Clergy house for St.Mary and St.Joseph also by Scott, in the same materials as the church.
Pennyflelds,
Part of the old route Limehouse. It became the home of the Chinese community shifted from Limehouse Causeway in slum clearances 1930s. Apart from a sprinkling of shops, almost entirely r with C20 council housing, mostly post 1945.
Plimsoll Close
The yellow brick low-rise housing around is a late addition of 1982, authentic in scale to the older groups, but more tightly planed back-to-front arrangement with front doors facing car parking in the Close arranged around trees. .
African Queen, a bold solitary c19 survival.
Ricardo Street,
Four-storey terrace of maisonettes of pale brick runs through stepped sections, part of a diverse collection of housing by Geoffrey Jellicoe. This is the most urban looking groups: lack of period detail, intermittent access neatly inset, and sturdy projecting concrete door a Jellicoe signature mark it out as different from pre-war flats. It faces the playground of Lansbury Lawrence School which has an undulating wall to accommodate it
Lansbury Lawrence Primary School. By Yorke, Rosenberg & Mardall, 1950-2, the first post-war building in Lansbury, on the site of a bomb-damaged Board School.
foyer with cheerful yellow patterned wall tiles by Peggy Angus, leads to the halls, with flying stair to the Junior hall on the first floor.
Elizabeth Lansbury Nursery School single-storey by the same architects, 1952, with two large playrooms linked by an entrance wing
Rifle Street
South Bromley Station. North London Railway. Only a fragment now remains. The stationcomprised a single island platform and wasreached by way of a doorway adjoining theFar Famed Cake Company's works at the eastend of Rifle Street. From here stairs ascendedto the brick-built booking hall, which stoodabove the tracks. This was demolished soonafter the Second World War, but the overgrown platform lasted until the 1980s, when itwas swept away in the early stages of DLRconstruction.
Saracen Street
A scatter of flats by the LCC, a group of three with projecting balconies formally arranged, facing East India Road across a generous lawn. Others more loosely grouped. Their hallmark is the striking balcony design with a chequer of glass bricks. The six-storey blocks were the tallest in the first phase of Lansbury, the start of an acknowledgement of the reality of the 136 p.p.a. density requirement.
Terrace of houses with flats above, by Norman & Dawbarn, given a little panache by modish balconies.
The Chimes, a typically unassuming post-war pub by Stewart & Hendry.
Shirbutt Street
Trinity House for lady workers, rebuilt 1934.
Stainsby Road
From 1977 the housing was continued past Stainsby Road, at an angle reflecting the different road pattern, creating some interesting if rather overpowering grouping of blocky forms at the junction. The area was made largely pedestrian, with the multi-layered access with linking upper walkways so fashionable at the time, but also with much attention given to landscaping and the creation of intimate spaces. Details are kept simple: brown brick, pitched roofs.
The extension includes a small group of shops
Grove Community Centre. Low
7-9 Luke House was built in 1933 to house the East London Nursing Society. It was founded in 1868 by Mrs Wigram, wife of the famous shipbuilder and her daughters Harriet and Eliza who worked for the society for over 40 years. It was the oldest nursing society in London and the second oldest m Britain. The nurses were amalgamated with the London Hospital in 1973- and the house is now a hostel for Queen Mary and Westfield College.
Trinity Green (not on AZ)
Site of burial ground for the Congregational Church. Green shipbuilders family vault is in a corner.
Has a vista of the second post-war church its skeletal tower top rising above trees. The green had at first a small lake, now filled in; a fibreglass and concrete sculpture was added in 1962. This miniature picturesque landscape was a showpiece adjacent to the 1951 temporary exhibition site on the other side of Upper North Street, built over afterwards with flats by Bridgwater & Shepheard.
The Dockers by Sydney Harpley, of which only a fragment is left. 1962.
Upper North Street
Empty except for a solitary former pub towards a crossing over the Limehouse
Cut
Mayflower School some more survivors of 1928, replacing the school bombed in 1917, which had its origins in Trinity chapel day-schools founded by George Green in 1843. Poplar suffered tremendous damage during World War Two, although it did not escape its share of bombing during World War One either. On 13 June 1917 the little school suffered a direct hit from a bomb dropped by a Gotha aircraft, which went through the roof and down to the ground floor killing 18 children.
George Green Almshouses, 1849. For twenty-one poor women, the latter a severe but handsome three-storey c19 terrace, identically sized windows on each floor, providing for a flat on each. Built in the 1840s by Green for poor women and widows in Poplar. In 1895 there were 21 residents, aged between 59 and 91 years. The building now contains flats for single women and is administered by the Springboard Housing Trust.
Blessed John Roche R.C. Secondary School 1950-2 by David Stokes. Enlargements 1970-3. On the site of the bombed R.C. church of which some ruins remain in the landscaped area of the school.. Built in 1951 on the site of the original church of St Mary and St Joseph. First called Cardinal Griffin School, it was amalgamated with St Victoire’s and renamed Philip Howard. Another change later when it went back to being a boys school.
Zetland Street,
Poplar and Berger Baptist Church, 1950-1. Small portal-framed building with nicely lettered name over the entrance. Furnishings of mahogany.
Church Hall of 1957-8.
Victoria Park
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Ballance Road.
Stone poem in a paving stone.
Berger Works
Berkshire Road
s.
Gainsborough Board School. 1897. A grand turreted three-decker with shaped gables, overlooking the bleak wastes of Hackney Wick. As elsewhere in London, the type developed from the 1870s, to the full-blown formal three-decker compositions of T.J. Bailey of the 1890s and beyond.
Vent stack on the line of the Hackney Brooke pale-blue Victorian vent stack with inscription: - Fred'k Bird Engineers Gt. Castle St. Regent S T. -W London
Bower Road
Impermeable Collar and Cuff Co.
Burdett Road
Built by the Office of Works opened in 25.5.62 from Limehouse.
Lodge by Regents Canal. Architect Pennethorne.
Cadogan Close
This was once the western end of Wallis Roadand led under the railway line.
Cadogan Terrace.
Fine row of smart terraced houses. Developed in the 1860s to take advantage of the park-side setting, is shabby genteel, in brick trimmed with stucco and by various hands, so without any sense of uniformity but with common motifs of heavy porches on Doric columns. Only a few strike out more ambitiously.
The Morpeth Castle, a former Truman's pub, 1926 by A.E. Sewell, in an appropriate but unorthodox crenellated style with a canted ground floor and Neo-Tudor windows with rounded heads. Hoodmoulds to the upper-floor windows with small masks.
Post and Telegraph office. well-preserved shop front
Top of the Morning pub. Used to be called the Mitford Castle.Plaque to Thomas Briggs of Clapton first person murdered on a train on the North London Railway. . On 9th July 1864, while travelling on the North London Railway, he was viciously assaulted by one Franz Muller, who intended to steal his gold watch, and when found on the tracks in a critical condition he was carried to this pub. He died later the same day
400 The Women's Hall. site only. a large house which once housed a private school and stood adjacent to the Lord Morpeth pub. On 5 May 1914 Sylvia raised the flag of the East London Federation of the Suffragettes, with the help of the Lansbury family and an enthusiastic band of supporters. She lived here with Norah Smyth for 10 years. The premises housed a women's hall and a cost-price restaurant was opened in August 1915. The house later served as the People's Russian Information Bureau, and regular weekly meetings were held in the hall until 1924, which were advertised in the Workers' Dreadnought.
The path by the side of the pub was once Ford Road, joining the Roman Road to Old Ford Road.
Cadogan Place
A short street which slopes upwards to Victoria Park
Cassland Road.
20-54 Hackney Terrace. Symmetrical composition of houses with Coade stone 1792
Grander terrace of the borough. 1792 originally called Cassland terrace
Clarke says goes alongside Silk Mill Cottages. Area called Botany Bay because so many of its inhabitants had aspirations to go there. Laid out by the Sir John Cass Estate. Cass’s father was a carpenter in the area. Cass made a lot of money and became Lord Mayor and that. Cass always lived there with his father and made a lot of money.
Cassland/Harrowgate yard. In the 1920s house used by private bus companies. Park of a cowkeeper.
Cassland Road Board School. 1901
Church Crescent
South Hackney Church built 1896 as St.John of Jerusalem. Chapel. Rebuilt 1845 as present church, lots of problems with the steeple.
Mongers’ Almshouses. Ok to have wives with them but if man dies wife must move out. Therefore, other almshouse built.
Duckett’s Cut. Or Hertford Union Canal
This long straight waterway was opened in 1830 by Sir George Duckett to provide a direct link between the Lee and the Regents Canal. Also known as Duckett's Cut, it runs along the south edge of Victoria Park, an area of open space laid out in the 1840's by James Pennethome. Duckett was also responsible for the River Stort Navigation, although he was known as plain George Jackson when he worked on that back in 1766!
Eastway
Eton House, 1897 a group of architectural significance
Mission Hall
Baths 1934-5, with a neat symmetrical front in artificial stone, included slipper baths and the novelty of a 'mechanical laundry'; the intended swimming baths were not built. Converted to studios by Hook Whitehead Stanway, 1994.
St.Mary of Eton. Impressive Mission building in a picturesque courtyard. Built By Bodley & Garner in Red brick with Bath stone dressings for the mission founded in 1880 by Eton College to help poverty in the area.. The side facing the street has a grouped display of steep gables. two bays were added by Cecil Hare in 1911-12. The interior is also impressive. Reredos by W. Ellery Anderson. On the piers is a memorial inscription by Eric Gill, 1936. battlemented parapet with flamboyant tracery and gargoyles.
Victoria Pub site of Wick Hall Rope walk at right angles to the road and footpath back to Homerton across the hilly fields
Sutor shellac bleaching works
Hackney Wick Baths. 1934. Artificial stone front and a mechanical laundry. Out of use. Studio use.
Elsa Street
Opening of Durning Hall under the Aston Charities Trust 1884
Felstead Road
Ingram’s Rubber wipers. Ingrams, with their origins in toy balloons, was established in 1847, and moved to Felstead Road in the early 1880's. It specialised in surgical rubber goods, and made the World's first seamless enema.
Hackney
Alfred Poliakoff employed 800 1928 seen as a good employer. Manufactured clothing, TU went to Treorchy 1935
Hackney Wick
Hamlet on the fringe of Hackney Marshes. The c20 housingsurrounded by desolate industrial areas, and isolated from Hackney by road and railway.
Furniture firm. Factory at Hackney Wick sent armchairs and settees all over the country by ‘C’ licence lorry. Trade from other canal wharves for timber spring etc from area. Depended on labour for North East London and
Less from around.
Hassett Road.
Convent of the Sacred Heart. Old house nucleus.
Dage’s Punt factory. Old house in the centre. Stands in Shepherds Lane.
In the 19thBerger warehouse with l805 clock
Old Ford Station. London North Western Railway depots.
Kenworthy Road
site of the former Hackney Wick goods and coal depot. This was opened by the Great Northern Railway on 25th March 1877, and closed on 6th November 1967. Until the mid-1980s, a large, dark blue Eastern Region nameboard remained in-situ above its former entrance.
Convent of the Sacred Heart. Began as a country house
Immaculate Heart of Mary. 1875. RC rebuilt 1955. By C.A. Buckler. Completed 1883. Apsed basilica with campanile inspired by the Roman churches of SS Nereo e Achilleo and Sta Maria in Dominica. Gutted in 1941; rebuilt by John E. Sterret, 1955-7
First house in the area dates from 1720. Near Wick Lane was a house to be Hilly Field near school and railway. On the right of this was Wick House and a school going down to the silk mill on Hackney Brook. A mill down on the mill. Silk Mill Row is the cottages also where Col. Mark Beaufoy lived there - vinegar family ancestor. He had a four handed clock and worked out how far a ship had sailed. White House Pub in 1890 had a museum of rare marsh birds. Thyssen library had anglers’ cards in 1890. Dick Turpin again. Hackney Brook through its grounds
Hilly Field board school and railway sidings and coal yard on Gainsborough Road was previously big house and fields leading down to the silk mill. Steam engines in the silk mills. When silk ended was a horse hair and flock mill
White Lion Hackney Brook through its grounds
Trowbridge Estate
Motorway Bridge
A monstrous footbridge acrossan incredibly busy multi-carriageway racetrack latterly the A12 East Cross Route. A splendid view is obtained in both directions. Looking north to the former junction with the GERStratford line, the formation can be seenin two sections, rudely interrupted by themodern road system, tearing through theremains as completely as a knife through butter. The derelict bridge supports give the gameaway, and, in the far distance, the base of the1961 replacement signal box can just be seen.Swivelling round to face Old Ford, a lengthystretch of grassy embankment forms a divisionbetween the Victorian terraced houses ofCadogan Terrace and the dual carriagewaydown below.
Railway Bridge long-span steel box-girder rail bridge of seven spans on a considerable skew. By Rendel, Palmer & Tritton, 1970-7.
Trowbridge Estate
GLC’s unhappy estate built 1967-70, which became famous for the bungled demolition of the first of its seven system-builttwenty-one-storey towers. Remodelled as 'Wick Village' by Levi. Bernstein Associates. The estate's traditionally built brick low-risehousing remains. Has now become St.Mary’s Village.
Victoria Park Road.
Clarke says goes from White Lion and skirts the park to the French Hospital, says Park Commissioners bought up old houses for parks staff to the south of the road.
145 junction with Handley Road site of Norris Almshouses. 1660s. Demolished 1968
Library. Parkside within a housing development by Gibberd, 1964.
Wallis Road
Hackney Wick Station 1985 Between Stratford and Homerton on the Silverlink North London Line
Wick Lane
Brook on north side. Silk mills at the end cottages for workers
White Lion. Very old pub site. The Railway embankment runs over what were pleasure grounds. Notable 1930s architecture. The name is a reference to the badge of Edward IV
Railway station was next door to the pub. Railway line on brick arches across the road and across arches. This is line now gone.
Clarke says it is modern and marks line of Hackney Brook from the Wick to Berger’s Factory.
Crossing over Hertford Cut. Fairly grand. North east bank in the pub yard.
Wick Lane Water Depot plus water works house. Pumping station it says
Berger Works
Near Wick Lane some older railwaybridge abutments can be seen, where the newroad system now parallels where the track bedonce was.
Victoria Park Station 14thJune 1856. North London Railway. on the north side of Wick Road, and it was specially brought into use on 29th May in connection with celebrations to commemorate the end of the Crimean War. It was initially shown in timetables as 'Victoria Park, Hackney Wick', but the suffix was dropped after 1859. It had two short platforms, without any shelter, but waiting rooms and awnings were added later. It was superseded by a larger station, sited further east. The former booking office survived until 1958, having been converted into a pair of houses, 339 and 339A Wick RoadVictoria Park and Bow Station 2nd April 1849. Built by the London and Blackwall Railway and Eastern Counties Railway. At Bow Junction. Closed 1851 Victoria Park 1856 14th June
North London Railway. On the north side of Wick Road. Private house until the 1950s
1866 resited. On the north east side of Cadogan Terrace opposite the park entrance. . Imposing North
1942 Stratford service ended
1943 Closed.
1970The main building disappeared without trace. To enable the A102M road to be constructed underneath the branch, the remains of Victoria Park station were demolished and a new steel viaduct erected to take the tracks.
Victoria Park Station. 1stMarch 1866. NLR & Great Eastern to Stratford Low Level. The main building faced onto the east side of Cadogan Terrace.. opened on 1st March 1866, and was a direct replacement for the original. It had four platforms, two on the Poplar line, and two on the Great Eastern line to Stratford which was opened by the Eastern Counties Railway on 15th August 1854. the NLR introduced passenger trains in October, and regular freights began in January 1855. the trains were referred to by the nickname of 'Stratford Jack'. The main building overlooked the park gates, and had three storeys, with a booking hall on the ground floor. The station prospered and a second entrance from Riseholrne Street was known as the 'Hackney Wick Entrance', or 'Victoria Park No.2'. In 1943 it was closed. After closure part of the main building facing onto Cadogan Square became a private house, but the station accommodation at track level became derelict. by 1965, all that remained was the main building itself, and a couple of mounds where the platforms used to be but it was still possible to read the old name on one of its blackened windows. The 1970, everything was swept away for the new road. For some time after the park entrance on the opposite side of Cadogan Terrace displayed the name 'Station Gate', but this has now been altered to 'Cadogan Gate'. a new steel viaduct erected to take the tracks. The junction points were removed on 5th May 1984 and lifting began soon after.
signal box dated from 1961 and replaced an earlier cabin, which was on the opposite side of the Stratford tracks. After closure it was damaged by fire and partially demolished, although its derelict brick base survived.
Stepney
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Barnes Street
Boundary markers between Limehouse and Ratcliffe
Next door in Beccles Street, plain early c19 houses, which look like a pair but have only one doorway?
Beccles Street
Plain early C19 houses, which look like a pair but have only one doorway.
Bekesbourne Street
Railway extension. originally built in 1847-9 to link up with the Great Eastern Railway at Bow but later rebuilt by London & Tilbury railway. The short bridge over Bekesbourne Street is by Joseph Westwood, engineers, 1889.
Belgrave Street
Retains terraces with stuccoed lower storeys
Ben Johnson Road.
Crown and Sceptre also called the Jug House.
Bow Common Lane.
Hill Jones chemical co. 1830.
Branch Road
Leads towards the Rotherhithe Tunnel. Imaginatively re-erected over the entrance is one of the flanged-and-bolted cutting edges of the tunneling shields (its pair frames the entrance of the Rotherhithe side). Polished pink-granite piers to the portal.
Crossing the tunnel entrance is a graceful cable-stayed footbridge, which links gardens on each side and provides a route to the Foundation of St Katharine at Ratcliffe
Low single-storey Neo-Georgian building of 1912 built 'to commemorate the 30th Anniversary ‘ of the inauguration of the Finnish Seamen's mission in London’. Cut brick voussoirs and dressings, refurbished with a copper-clad mansard roof
Brayford Square.
Holland’s Pub. In the family since 19th‑ treasure house.
Brickfields Gardens,
Heart of the estate, is a figure-of-eight green designed to provide a continuous link to the grander space to be realized when St George’s Fields was linked to Mile End Park.
Redbourn House Two big eight-storey blocks of 1954-6,
Gatwick House. On access side a strong abstract pattern created by the solid and railed balconies; crowned by two curved lift towers on the roof. Quieter on the other side which has recessed private balconies and generous living-room windows.
Gulliver. In the garden in front of Gatwick House, the novelty of a concrete play sculpture in Festival of Britain spirit: figure by Trevor Tennantt now battered
Brunton Place
Stephen Hawking School. 1997 by Haverstock Associates. A special needs school. Single storey, on a T-shaped plan, with steel superstructure and external walls in stock brick. Its profile is defined by an elegant butterfly- pitch roof along the spine. Monopitch roofs abut it on both sides to form glass clerestories providing light for the internal corridors and communal spaces. These are flanked by long classrooms, each opening to outdoor play spaces. Secure looking but not severe or forbiddingly institutional.
Burdett Road.
Built 1862 across Bow Common as the approach to Victoria Park . The name preserves the memory of valiant Baroness Burdett-Coutts, philanthropist, reformer, and ally of Charles Dickens.
St.Paul’s church 1956-60 by Maguire and Keith Murray, replacing a bombed church of 1856. Commissioned by a Marxist vicar. Their first church, and the first major expression in England of the principles of the liturgical movement was developed further in their later churches and which aimed to bring priests close to the congregation. It had been included with central plans before the war, but in England it was still daringly innovative in the late 1950s, and so was the aesthetic of geometric cubic forms which was done deliberately in inexpensive, industrial materials and romantic textures. It shocked many. It looks like a rather seed yard' was the comment in Basil Clarke's notebook. It is a square within a three-by-four-bay rectangle. It's austere, windowless red brick walls are relieved with zigzagging concrete-slab roofs of the aisles; above and behind them a plain brick square is crowned by the large glazed gables of the pyramid-topped lantern. Although quite low, this forms a decisive landmark from afar. Octagonal porch with intense, bold lettering by Ralph Beyer. 'This is the house of God, this is the gate of heaven.' Inside, the entrance area, with the font, is a low, dark prelude to the light and space in the centre of the three eastern bays, which is lit from above and defined by the slender white columns dividing it from the surrounding triangular-vaulted aisles. The altar is raised on steps, emphasized by the hanging steel corona and Baldacchino. The sanctuary is indicated only by different paving; no altar rails. Seating is on three sides, using portable benches - an arrangement which can extend into the aisles if required. Two small chapels. Tough light fittings, matching the geometric austerity of the baldachinno. Hemispherical font an industrial stoneware vat set on an octagonal concrete block. Mosaics by Charles Lutyens, 1964-9, but part of the original conception - funded by war-damage money allocated for stained glass. Half figures of angels in the arcade spandrels, the Four Elements in the corners; subtle colours. Original 1858 church. Queen Adelaide gold money service. One world well church in a site reaching 10m. Complete impression. 1856 badly damaged.
Burdett Road Station. 11th September 1871. Opened by the Great Eastern Railway. The Entrance was under the railway bridge on the east side of Burdett Road – a widening of the track shows the site. It was built because the company thought there would be custom there and initially it was probably very basic. In 1941 it was closed because of bomb damage and finally closed a fortnight later. Less and less people were using it – there were trams available and people wefre moving out because of the war.. In 1984 the remains were demolished when the bridge was rebuilt. It has been in industrial use.
Vicarage
Victoria Lead Works Lancaster & Johnson & Sons white lead and paint manufacturer and lead smelters. . W. W. & R. Johnson's second works. Adjacent to the Limehouse Cut. There were eight stacks for making white lead. In 1862 a furnace was installed to smelt the returns from the stacks. More stacks were added and, by 1939, there were 29 stacks together with melting house, tan shed, grinding and preparation rooms, three drying stoves and various ancillary buildings. Victoria Lead Works closed in 1951 and the premises were demolished in 1984. A pot was recovered from the site and presented to the Tower Hamlets Local History Library. In 1833 Robert Johnson, invited Dickens to visit their factory. Dickens provided a vivid account in ‘On an Amateur Beat’. In 1881, in Poplar, 23 women and 7 men were reported with lead poisoning. The most dangerous part of the process was said to be the removal of the white lead from the stack and afterwards. W. W. & R. Johnson & Sons provided their women workers with dresses, gloves, aprons, respirators and caps. The men were provided with jackets, aprons, gloves and respirators. The company also provided washrooms with petroleum, soap, warm water, towels and brushes for clothing and shoes. Seven minutes were allowed for washing and cleaning. A woman was appointed to ensure efficient cleansing of the person of every female worker. Also a constant supply of sulphuric acid drink is kept and used, which is free to all workers in the factory. Another woman was employed to wash the women's special clothing. But, as the figures show, these measures were not enough to prevent lead poisoning. As R Campbell wrote in 1747, the labourers are sure in a few years to become paralytic by the Mercurial Fumes of the lead: and seldom live a dozen years in the business.
Copenhagen Place
Area of Locksley Estate. Hefty maisonette blocks, added in the 1970s and typical of the GLC era; red brick with exposed-concrete floors and linking upper walkways. This late addition replaced industrial buildings along Limehouse Cut.
Sir Joseph Huddart & Company. the Elder Brethren of Trinity House witnessed a in Pimlico in 1789, one of whom was Joseph Cotton. His son, William, was to become the managing partner in a Limehouse rope works. Cotton's partner was Joseph Huddart who had patented a new method of making rope and the Limehouse factory was set up to make this. Boulton and Watt were asked to install the power raising equipment. and it was to them that they went for gas making plant sometime between 1806 and 1811. The ‘works’ where the gas making plant was situated was just north of today’s Commercial Road alongside the Limehouse Cut. The rope walk itself stretched north into an area which was then roughly known as Bow Common. The gas works was at the end on the Cut in the present Copenhagen Place, E3. Also demolition of a lead works on part of the site.
Canal
Copperfield Road factories backs
Johnson’s Lock furthest lock is now a weir. On a central island is a post carrying a rack and pinion which operated the paddle controlling the flow between the locks
Allen's confectionery works below the lock
Lime-juice factory between Allen’s and the school
Barnardo School. Now Ragged School Museum Trust. The school was opened in 1877 and in 1896 extended into the limejuice factory, but the school closed in 1908.
Confectionery factory is now used by a packing and distributing firm.
Gas Works wharves with coal tramway running along them
Victory Bridge with Ben Johnson Road
Brick stack, which is ventilation for a sewer c. 1906 by the L.C.C.
Railway Fenchurch Street to Southend Line
Salmon Lane Lock with lock cottage and pump house of 1864.
Footbridge 1990s with two bowstring sections.
Path with access to Parnham Road, Salmon Lane and Commercial Road
Railway line from Stratford to Isle of Dogs and Millwall disused
On the bank Regent’s Canal Works of the Gospel Oak Iron Co. between railway and Commercial Road
Iron control valve on the bank and inspection cover to operate back pumping along the towpath to Mile End Lock.
Bridge a small twin arched 1820 carries Commercial Road across the canal
Commercial Road Lock. Twin locks. Right hand lock is a weir. Over the lock is a 36” iron pipe, part of back pumping system-carrying water from the Thames on the other side of the basin to the towpath. 12 locks from Hampstead Road and goes into Regent Canal Dock.
Steps to A13
Carbis Road
Further variety provided by two-storey cottage terraces in, a bomb-damaged area.
Stepney Greencoat C.E Primary School of one and two storeys. 1970, succeeding to the Hamlet of Ratcliffe charity school
Leopold Street
St Paul's Church of England primary school. One big room divided up. Cheerful
Clemence Street
Remains to show the modest mid-c19 character of the original streets; small stucco-trimmed terraces two storeys over basements,
Prince Alfred pub. More elaborate
Commercial Road
A rare example in recent times of roads cut with a Roman or Parisian ruthlessness across what was formerly a mass of east London streets. Before the coming of the docks these great arteries were not necessary. All heavy transport to and from the City was by water. There had been formerly a network of straggling villages, from Spitalfields to Poplar. Many of their highways were superseded in importance by these 'commercial roads, built in the period 1803-10
Crossroads - Commercial Road, constructed in 1810, meets with East and West India Dock Roads and Burdett Road at a major junction at Limehouse. In order to pay for the road, tolls were levied on vehicles passing through. A toll house stood at this junction until 1871.
660 London Joint Stock Bank tall and classical; entrance at the corner with Gill Street. Rusticated floor, upper floors with giant Corinthian columns of granite
Housing of 2000, by Baily Garner, shallow curved roof.
680 Passmore Edwards Sailors Palace. HQ of the British and Foreign Sailors’ Society. An unusually pretty building of 1901 by Niven & Wigglesworth. The facade's chief motif is a very Arts and Crafts 'gatehouse'. Octagonal flanking turrets, a flat three-storey rectangular oriel and lavish carving on a nautical theme, including a regal figurehead keystone - presumably Britannia - grasping two galleons, flanked by the names of the winds, finely lettered. A rope moulding twisted around the names of the continents, and delicate reliefs of seagulls touching down lightly on the waves as label stops. Anchors, dolphins, shields etc., embossed on the metal panels here and on the side to Beccles Street, which is articulated by flattened bays projecting slightly over a segmental arcade of windows. One wing rebuilt c. 1960. Converted into flats 1983-4 by Shankland Cox for Rodinglea Housing Association. Also housed the King Edward VII Nautical College and was opened in 1901. The Tower Hamlets Chinese Association has its office here. The hostel was referred to locally as the 'stack o' bricks', because of the distinctive red bands on its frontage.
632‑644
Limehouse station. 3rd August 1840. Between West Ferry and Shadwell on Docklands Light Railway. Between West Ham and Fenchurch Street on C2C. 1840 Built 1840 as Stepney Station. 1847 Junction when line built to Bow and Stratford. 1876 Rebuilt. Still has early wooden structure from the 1850s on the down platform. 1926 London and Blackwall station closed. Also called Stepney East renamed for DLR. On the right hand side under the railway arch can be seen two disused doorways, which at one time afforded an alternative entrance to Stepney East (later Limehouse) platforms. Vintage looking gas lamp supports sprout from above the door- ways This pair of doorways beneath the bridge on the south side of Commercial Road at the present Limehouse station are not what they seem. They look pretty convincing, but the entrances were actually bricked-up in the 1990s. The doors themselves, which differ in styling to those, which they replaced, are therefore modern, although the matt grey paint and subsequent weathering give them an authentic look. Up above there are two lamp brackets although for many years only one survived. Where did the other one come from? Is it genuine and retrieved from storage or a modern cast? Why should anyone put false doors over blocked openings, both here and on the other side of Commercial Road? In the name of conservation perhaps? Bold voussoirs
Limehouse Town Hall, 1879-81 by A. & C. Harston. A white brick palazzo with stone dressings. Arched moulded windows, channelled angle piers, central pediment and strong projecting cornice; chimneys rising from stone aprons on the face of the building. Projecting doorcase with polished granite columns. Originally Limehouse Vestry Hall. For a while was the Museum of Labour History. In typical Italianate mode, this'- white brick vestry hall by A & C. Harston became the town hall in 1900. The large hall on the first floor survives relatively unaltered. Unusually equipped with a small internal balcony on wrought iron brackets.
15 Coade stone towers.
Passmore Edwards District Public Library. 1900-1 by J. G &.F. Clarkson. Stone except for the yellow brick upper outer bays with shaped gables. Two storey with attics in gables. Behind, the main library looks post-1945. Large mural of Limehouse Reach by Claire Smith, 1986. An androgynous angel broods over a Turneresque river with unpleasant flotsam. In front. Clement Attlee, Prime Minister 1945-51, and member for Limehouse 1922-50. A touchingly prosaic portrait in bronze, 1988, by Frank Forster, who won GLC competition in 1986.
Smartly painted girder bridge crosses Commercial Road which, despite having the ' appearance of a modern, functioning bridge carries no railway and has not done either for four decades! This carried the 'Salmon Lane' or 'Limehouse' Curve which linked the London & Blackwall proper with the Blackwall Extension Line between Stepney East and Burdett Road, opening in 1880. After two unsuccessful early attempts at a passenger service in the late nineteenth century, the spur settled down to a life of pure freight traffic until 1962, shortly after the Southend electrification scheme was completed and goods traffic towards Millwall Junction via Limehouse had virtually ceased. Perversely, the local authorities repainted the metalwork up above only a few years ago. Railway extension originally built in 1847-9 to link up with the Great Eastern Railway at Bow but later rebuilt by London & Tilbury railway. The main viaduct of 1874-6 by Langley. Think this might have been demolished.
583 Brunswick Terrace - built into the angle of the bridge and the DLR. a handsome group of, originally six, houses of c. 1820-30; some of the grandest to survive in Commercial Road. In their setting they seem worthy of a scene by Dore or Dickens and determined to keep up appearances. Three storeyed, with honeysuckle balconies, doorways with fanlights and Greek Doric columns.
London City Mission,
777-85 hugging the curve around St Anne's churchyard, and overlooking the Limehouse Cut, a group of red brick industrial buildings the former offices and engineering workshops of Caird & Rayner, a firm established 1889, which specialized in evaporators and condensers for distilling water. The Peabody Trust owns 773-785. built for and occupied in stages from 1889 by Caird & Rayner. They were engineers and coppersmiths who specialised in the design and manufacturer of sea water distilling plant for supplying boilers and drinking water on Royal Navy vessels, Cunard liners, cargo ships and oil tankers. In 1964, Caird & Rayner Ltd was described as 'one of the two big names in British marine distillation'. The company left Limehouse in about 1972 and was dissolved in 1995. Included among the many Royal Navy vessels fitted with Caird & Rayner plant were torpedo boats built by Yarrow and Company in Cubitt Town on the Isle of Dogs; First World War battleships and battlecruisers; HMS Belfast (1938) now moored on the River Thames; HMS Albion (1954) and HMS Hermes (1959) when they were converted from aircraft carriers to commando carriers. Starting with the Mauretania in 1906, Caird & Rayner's plant was installed on most of Cunard's great passenger liners, including Queen Mary (now at Long Beach, California) and Queen Elizabeth. For the QE2, Caird & Rayner's Limehouse works made treatment plant for domestic water and her four swimming pools. Caird & Rayner were the sole manufacturers of several related products, mostly patented by Thomas Rayner who was born in Stepney in 1852. His patent automatic evaporator has been on display at the Science Museum since 1902. Although he left the partnership in 1907, the firm continued to design new types of desalination plant, especially during and after the Second World War. All the designs were produced in the drawing office on the first floor of the 1896-97 office building next door to the 1893-94 office building which housed the managers' offices and general office. Both red-brick office buildings were architect designed in a Queen Anne style to respect the church and churchyard. The engaged octagonal buttresses on the 1896-97 building articulate its angled front around the curved site boundary on
777 workshop built in 1869 by William Cubitt & Company as a sail-makers- and-ship-chandlers warehouse. Although it was occupied by Caird & Rayner from 1889 to about 1972 it was not altered: timber posts with angled struts under long timber crossheads support the former sail loft floor; increasingly rare queenrod roof trusses support the hipped slate roof and the building retains its original cast- iron window frames and two double loading doors on the Limehouse Cut.
779-83, 1896-7 by the same firm; three offices to the road, with central archway leading into rare survival, a large steel-framed, galleried engineering workshop with integral travelling crane gantry. The galleries are top lit with pitched glazed roofs. built by J H Johnson in 1896. It is an early and nationally rare example of a steel-framed galleried engineering workshop with skylights over the side galleries and a large lantern light over the central bay. It is also an excellent modem example of the mid 19th-century timber prototype of which the grade II* Garrett's Long Shop at Leiston Suffolk is possibly the original and probably the sole surviving example.
785 occupied by Caird & Rayner in 1902-03 built by J H Johnson of Limehouse who also built Limehouse Town Hall (1879-81)., by Marshall & Bradley
803, only two bays, but elaborately stuccoed, with garlands above the top windows.
811 more varied group is a tiny two-storey building, with shop front elaborately lettered for a funeral director. C. Walters, undertakers, were known as Francis the beginning of the 20th century. The establishment is over 200 years old and its frontage was refurbished in the 1990s with the help of English Heritage
815-21, early c19 terrace with the common motif of first floor windows within arches.
Star of the East. The dominant centrepiece in the terrace. Colourfully detailed later c19 front. Its first floor has Gothic arches in groups of three and two, with voussoirs of red and white stone against terracotta diapering. In the centre a second floor with smaller five-arched arcade. Carved heads in all the tympana. . an imposing example of pub architecture. A pair of gas lamps survives on the pavement outside the premises.
777 have an office building of 1893-4 in front of a workshop converted in 1889 from a sail-maker's and ship chandler’s warehouse and sail loft of 1869. Original timber upper floor on strutted timber posts; queen- rod roof trusses. Loading door at first-floor level
747 The Mission, the former Empire Memorial Sailors' Hostel, by Thomas Brammall Daniel & Horace W Parnacott, 1923-4. Salmon Lane wing 1932 by George Baines & Son. A stripped Perpendicular exterior on a cathedral-like scale. The inspiration must have been the Sailors' Palace down the road. The stone-clad facades, with vertical strips of window and seaweedy foliage carving, masked completely plain interiors round a courtyard. Subdivided as flats in 1989. ‘Feeble’ in an earlier Pevsner is it a war memorial.
Wrought-iron railway bridge built on the Limehouse Curve in 1880 as a link between the London and Blackwall Railway and extension to Bow. Now gone.
Lady Immaculate with St Frederick R.C. Begun 1926-8 by A.J. Sparrow, but not finished until 1934. Plain brick Early Christian basilica. campanile, and an odd turret crowned with a statue of the Sacred Heart, designed as a war memorial to be seen from the river. Replacing a temporary church of 1881 by H.J. Hanson. Austere exterior of dark red brick over a black brick plinth, with windowless apse towards the road, small arched side windows, campanile with copper pyramid roof. Surmounting the end of the nave, raised up on a plinth, a chunky oak statue of Christ the Steersman, designed to be seen from the river. In front of the church, bronze sculpture of Christ Crucified, with low relief panels on both front and back. 1997 by Sean Henry, made by Bronze Age, a local foundry. On the apse, memorial to Father Higley 1934, builder of the church. The elegant classical interior with its play of curves is a surprise; plastered walls, barrel ceiling pierced by ample clerestory windows. Round-arched arcades on square piers and apse, above them an emphatic horizontal cornice, continuing around the apse. gallery, bowing forward. Contemporary furnishings in yellow Sicilian marble: High Altar, Pulpit, octagonal Font. Sculpture of Our Lady of Grace, French c19, finely carved white marble, from Sisters of Charity convent. Mill Hill, now effectively set against a silkscreen print with red oval on blue, by Pauline Corfteld, c. 2000. Small carved wooden figure of St John Roche, shown as a boatman. Painting of the Crucifixion, by Armando Seijo, c. 1999. stations of the cross, on canvas over copper. Flemish late-Gothic style, by Louis J Beyaen-Carier of Belgium b.1876, erected 1935. Stained Glass - Several saints; by the stairs to the gallery, a good circular window St Joseph
Hall Below the church and Presbytery, 1934
Danish Seamen's Church In Foreign Ports now London City Mission. A haven on this tight wedge of land hemmed in by road and railway. 1958-9 by Holgerjensen with Armstrong & McManus.. Like the other Scandinavian missions to seamen, an admirable arrangement of homely accommodation, and a small church within an envelope characteristic of the seamen's own world. crisp, blue brick building looks more modern than most British architecture of the date. The church, with roof and clerestory lighting, is linked to rooms. 1958-9 by the Danish architect Holgerjensen in association with Armstrong & MacManus. The church forms one corner of a compact block with social rooms and minister's accommodation. Dark brick, given character by asymmetrical copper monolith roofs, which intersect to provide clerestory lighting for the church. Inside, the church is a small space with plain brick walls and a gallery. Good Stained Glass by Palle Bruun. Sliding doors connect the church to the main room which has a big fireplace and two lancets with c19 glass of SS Michael and Uriel from a previous church.
Bancroft’s Alms Houses. 24 poor men of the Drapers Company. School for 100 boys. £28,000. Said that he had got the money by his harsh iniquities as an overseer at the Lord Mayor’s School.
Docks entrance to Wapping road. Spacious courtyards.
North approach to Rotherhithe Tunnel new blocks of workers flats.
Fish market
Modelle Court on the corner of Arbour Square 1938.
London Co-operative Society Store 1940 bombed and destroyed
Eastern Hotel where King of Siam lunched. At the Corner into West India Dock Road
Steps to the Basin. Features in films 'Face’.
Flamborough Walk
Extraordinary survival a little row of stuccoed villas in a triangle of land by railway line. Individually developed by the lessees of the plots from 1819-41 and, unlike neighbouring houses, set back from Commercial Road behind a meadow.
Devonshire Cottage, 1834, dignified by giant Ionic pilasters
Gill Street
Thomas author of “Limehouse Nights” and other books, lived with his uncle for the first nine of his life. Also home to several sea captains over the years, and there is a headstone in Tower Hamlets cemetery, which bears the name of Captain Gill of Limehouse, and at least two other sea captains
Harford Street
Stepney Gas Works original works of Commercial Co. from 1837 ‑1946. Formed by traders dissatisfied with others. Vestrymen against it. 1885 enlarged and rebuilt. Three horizontal retort houses with stoking machinery. Closed 1946 but holder station plus meter repair shop remained until 1957. Dressy Italianate block like a superior railway station. Behind gasholders three times as high as the one in front. Like keeping a hippo in a patio garden.
Ocean Estate, 1950 London County Council housing. Swedish design principles. - Immersion heaters and bathrooms with lavatories.
Ben Johnson School. Education remained the privilege of a minority of children - most of them boys - until the late nineteenth century when the 1870 Education Act finally introduced the concept of education for all. Administration of the new system was placed in the hands of locally elected school boards of which the largest and most important was the London School Board. The LSB marked its establishment by holding an architectural competition for the design of an elementary school for 1,600 pupils. The competition was won by Professor Roger Smith, and the resulting Ben Johnson School became the forerunner of the first generation of schools for all
Island Row
272 Bronze Age Sculpture Casting studios
Limehouse Cut
1770 following report by Smeaton.
Harker Stagg & Morgan chemical works on the canal 1833. Shares and used for transport of coal.
Limehouse Link
Tunnel 1989-93 engineers Sir Alexander Gibb & Partners built to link The Highway with new roads on the Isle of Dogs instead of an over ground relief road, which would have destroyed Limehouse. A worthwhile but exceptionally expensive endeavour, requiring the construction of an open cofferdam behind Limehouse Basin and the rehousing of 556 households many of whom were moved to Timber Wharves, Millwall. The tunnel goes in a concrete box beneath the dock following a very distinctive route. Cut and cover tunnel, with its underground slip roads to Westferry and Canary Wharf. It was made bottom upwards behind an open cofferdam, all involving massive temporary works of strutting and dewatering and the removal of 1.8 million tons of spoil by barge.
West Service Building closes the view down The Highway. Immense, stripy pink and buff stone structure designed by Roaney O'Carroll with Anthony Meads, which houses the services and makes a dramatic postmodern statement in its surroundings. Powerful and muscular close-up with strongly sculptural steps to the gardens. Striped postmodern tone this is easily mistaken at first glance for a 1930s super-road pediment.
Restless Dream Above the tunnel entrance by Zadok Ben-David, huge but lightly done in painted aluminium. A silhouetted sleeping figure dreams of dozens of tiny active figures whirling in a circle above - a commentary on the frenetic activity of Docklands that could be viewed either positively or negatively.
Maize Row
Area of lead mills
St.Dunstan’sChurch. Built in a marsh. Very old, has a Saxon crucifixion on a slab, a Saxon rood. It was originally a wooden church dedicated to All Saints in 952 St.Dunstan consecrated it – he was sainted in 1209 and it was then called after him. It was the only church in Middlesex east of London until 1300. The door on the tower has been there since the Wars of the Roses. It is a perpendicular building, with registers dating back to 1568 but the remains of the previous churches lie under it. Monuments: Colet tomb - he was twice Lord Mayor and lived opposite; "Fish and ring" monument to Dame Rebecca Berry, who was the heroine of the ballad called “The Cruel Knight and the Fortunate Farmer's Daughter.” It is like a village church. In the 1890s it had six working clergymen and nine scripture readers and 100 volunteer workers. Hit by a V2 in 1940s. Charrington’s gave aid for restoration.
Seven-acre churchyard. Size of churchyard indicated plague. 3,000 in 1699 and 1650 and 1665. Cholera and bombing. Made into a park and opened 18.7.87 by the Duchess of Leeds. On a ley line from the Temple via St Paul’s and St Helen’s Bishopsgate. Tents erected in 1794 for refugees and homeless from Ratcliffe fire. London County Council parks list. Maintained by the rector of All Saints. Features in films 'Vera Drake’.
Mercers Estate
A more respectable enclave of Ratcliffe survived to the towards St Dunstan's church, where land, originally the estate of Dean Colet, was developed by the Mercers' Company under the direction of their surveyor, George Smith, from 1819. The Mercers favoured 'respectable' working-class tenants and maintained their property more carefully than some other East End land owners, so early post-war plans for total rebuilding here were abandoned. Fortunately by the time the property was acquired by the G.L.C. in 1969, the tide had turned in favour of rehabilitation
Mill Place.
Hydraulic Accumulator Tower from the first installation of power at Regents Dock by William Armstrong in 1852. Truncated chimney. May be earliest in London. Tucked in hard against the viaduct. Built in 1868-9 to serve the ship lock at the Basin. An impressive survival and, renovated by Dransfield Design to be accessible to the public. There is an Octagonal tower, with slit windows, and an octagonal chimneystack. It has a huge wrought-iron weight-case, 24ft high, held some 80 tons of gravel. This weight-case, which was driven up the tower to maintain the hydraulic pressure by engines under the viaduct, has been fitted with a helical staircase to an exhibition area and, at the top, a viewing platform. Previously thought to be a railway look out from the early days of signaling.
Commercial Road Bridge c.1820.
Accumulator tower. The most impressive survival and, as renovated by Dransfield Design 1994-5, accessible to the public. The tower, octagonal with slit windows, and an octagonal chimneystack attached to it, are the only remains of a hydraulic pumping station of 1868-9, - contemporary with the new ship lock. It has a huge riveted wrought-iron weight case, 24 ft high, which held some 80 tons of gravel. This weight-case, which was driven up the tower to maintain the hydraulic pressure by steam engines under the viaduct, has been fitted with a helical iron staircase to an exhibition area and, at the top, a viewing platform. This pumping station superseded the first of 1852, which had a very early Armstrong accumulator, and stood, until 1994, on the w side of the Commercial Road lock. A third station (1898), was combined with back-pumping the canal to refill the four nearest locks, and the wrought-iron pumping main for this low-pressure water can be seen crossing the canal at the Commercial Road Bridge. These installations became largely redundant with changes of practice. Probably the first. Yellow stock brick. Sandstone stringcourse, and octagonal chimney. Remains of hydraulic accumulator, side plates removed and gravel contents spilling out. Displaced from its guides. 55' high chimney originally 70' high but truncated. Pit in front of entrance door, contains hydraulic pipes covered by timbers. Two steam pumping engines in Arch 267; coal in arch; machine shop, 25 men employed in 1897 in the hydraulic dept including engine drivers, stokers, and crane men. The date of tower is by 1870. ROD second dock after Poplar dock to use hydraulic power from 1853. 1869 new hydraulic pump in conjunction with the new ship dock. Listed Grade II.
Barge Basin infilled c.1842 - under two western 87 foot arches of London & Blackwall Viaduct. Barge dock - western. Northern enlargement under the triple arches eastern locks. By 1870 had acquired a timber shed, possibly for unloading in conjunction with Henry Page’s rice mill.
Newell Street
Remains of the smart c18 quarter around the church.
St.Ann’s Limehouse. One of Hawksmoor's East End churches. St Anne was furnished 1723-5 but not consecrated. The master mason for St Anne was Strong. The composition here is as original but the vocabulary is more conventional. Mouldings all exquisitely carved and enriched. Gutted by fire in 1850, the interior was reconstructed by Philip Hardwick and the local John Morris, 1850-1. Restoration, surprisingly faithful to the original, resumed under P. C. Hardwick in 1856-7 with reseating and pulpit by Hardwick's pupil, young Arthur Blomfield. In 1891, as Sir A. Blomfield, he remodelled the chancel. Restoration 1983-93 by Julian Harrap, added tubular steel trusses by Hockley & Dawson, consulting engineers, to support the 019 roof. This, with its wrought-iron hanger rods, closely resembles those used by the Hardwicks in the Great Hall of Euston Station in 1846 and conforms to a pattern favoured by the builder of the church, William Cubitt. The tower is a spectacular sight from a distance. It has nothing of the routine character or skimpiness, which so often spoils the appearance of later Georgian towers. The tower is neither embraced by the body of the church, as at Christ Church Spitalfields, nor projects from it, as at St George. Instead it is incorporated in a 'westwork' of vestibules, with attics and pediments and, below these, strongly rusticated quoins. No portico, but instead an apsidal projection, the expression of a circular vestibule within the tower base. The upper part of the tower is like St George's in shape, rectangular and appears wider than it really is, by means of buttresses grouped with the tower's angle pilasters and far projecting. A bell opening, its arch rising above the entablature, echoes the dome of the vestibule below. The top is the equivalent perhaps of a medieval thing very Baroque in its changes of direction no sinuous flourishes at all. Even the finials and urns have consistent angularity. The order applied to all stages is Doric. The sides of the church, also stone-faced, are very restrained in adornment, as always with Hawksmoor. Tall arched gallery windows over squarish ones, below which are windows to the high crypt, perhaps intended for use as a school and now a clubroom. Bays slightly recessed, expressing the internal arrangement; the vestries also have rusticated angle quoins to match the 'westwork' and curiously brutal rectangular angle towers; their interlaced ornament seems to follow no historical precedent. Cockerell's pre-fire drawings show three recesses over the centre of the sides, which are no longer there. Wall with a triumphal arch motif, repeating the Doric order of the front. The circular vestibule is domed, stone-lined and lit with a clear even light from big arched upper windows. From it, a disappointing entrance to the church, oppressed by Hardwick's organ gallery. The interior, as was the case at St George, is less inventive than the exterior. It is developed from the cross-in- square plan of e.g. Wren's St Anne and St Agnes. An additional bay. One is filled by a broad, rectangular, and tunnel-vaulted chancel, flanked by vestries; in the chancel walls, quartets of arched windows, pierced by Blomfield, 1891. His chancel seating has gone. The bay emphasizes the longitudinal direction and hints at a narthex, perhaps a reference to the arrangements of Early Christian churches, in which Hawksmoor and contemporary theologians were interested. The Corinthian order is used throughout. The main columns and entablature are of stone, timber columns support the galleries. Hardwick’s intervention is most obvious in the heaviness of the plasterwork and gallery with screen beneath carrying an organ by Gray & Davison, which won a prize at the Great Exhibition of 1851 and was installed soon after. Fortunately unaltered. Font by Hardwick and Morris, 1853. Discordant neo-medieval stone bowl carved with big lilies. Neo-c17 font cover, post 1894. Pulpit. By Blomfield, 1856, carved by William Gibbs Singers- Faithful c18 style, unusual at this date. It originally stood further east and was reached from the chancel by a long flight of stairs. Communion Table, c18, small, oak. Stained Glass in the window: large and richly coloured scene of the crucifixion, painted in enamels by Charles Clutterbuck, 1853. Monument In the porch, high up in a niche, monument to Maria Charlesworth, apparently c19. Hope with her anchor. Crypt has beautifully constructed groin vaults in red brick. Collection of disparate parts. Huge columns march in from the corners but afford to the consequences. Drawn back from the logical enclosure of a Greek cross inside a rectangle. ‘Depressing’. 1720 separate parish. 130’ high tower. Highest clock in London. One of Queen Anne’s 50 churches. Hawksmoor. Tower like those of All Souls, Cambridge. No spatial surprises. Not consecrated for 6 years parish too poor to pay a priest.
11 bow-fronted house on the corner was often visited by Charles Dickens, whose godfather, Christopher Huffam, lived here. The largest house with open-pedimented door case with delicate brackets a bow to the front.
13-23 all two-storey and three bay;
21 is stuccoed.
2-4 early-detached villa converted c.1850 for use as a training establishment for boys. The facade still has a tin plaque reading British and Foreign Sailors' Society Off-centre entrance through a low fore building articulated to the street with a row of blind arches. Later 019 extension and paired arched first-floor windows for a chapel.
6a-b built into the boundary odd little later c20 houses roofed with big pantiles and with an Italianate tower.
Norbiton Road
Pleasantly detailed three-storey blocks, also of 1957-8, pale brick panels, private balconies, shallow-pitched roofs
Midhurst House curves to the street line,
Northumbria Street.
Celestial Church of Christ, 1873-4 by F.J. Of H. Francis. The centre of a little enclave in Bartlett Park on the fringe of Lansbury, originally with a school as well as the former clergy house. Built as the Anglican St Saviour, made redundant 1976, given to the West African sect in 1984. A large, lofty aisled church of polychrome brickwork, with bellcote, gabled chapel, sacristies and narthex. Decorated tracery; the clerestory with quatrefoil windows. Inside, the upper parts are now hidden by a clumsy suspended ceiling of the 1990s, cutting across the nave arcades. These are also of coloured brick, on columns with plain moulded capitals. The chancel capitals have the emphatic foliage carving often favoured by the architects. Fine window by Heaton Butler & Bayne c. 1880, figures in pre-Raphaelite style.
Ratcliffe
The first landfall downriver with a good straight road to London. A wharf existed here in 1348, the first known exploitation of the riverside east of the City, and by the cl6 many famous voyages of discovery were setting off from here. The hamlet, originally restricted to the riverside, expanded in the c15 towards Butcher Row, the main route to Stepney and Hackney. In the early c17 it was the most populous of Stepney's riverside hamlets with about 3,500 inhabitants. Its main street, later known as the Ratcliffe Highway (was lined with wharves, warehouses and shipbuilders' yards, and became a centre for glassmaking. But in 1794 a fire, which spread fiercely from an ignited barge of saltpetre at the East India Company's warehouses wiped out half of Butcher Row and necessitated much rebuilding. Soon after this, as the docks were established downstream, Ratcliffe's character changed dramatically as its population expanded from about 5,000 in 1801 to 17,000 in 1861 and it became a parish distinct from Limehouse in 1838 and prosperous wharfingers and tradesmen gave way to seamen and dockworkers. The building of Commercial Road in 1806-10 divided c19 Ratcliffe in two. The southern part towards the river became teeming slums around Ratcliffe Highway, made notorious by a series of murders in 1811
Ratcliffe Lane
John Scurr House; originally one of a pair, part of a small slum clearance scheme. Modernistic style of 1936-7 by Adshead & Ramsey for Stepney Borough Council. A six-storey U-plan. Central stair tower with glass brick inset and access balconies but also, unusual for the date, lifts to each floor. Refurbished in 1997 by Architype with funding from the LDDC, a showpiece embellishment of social housing with metal balustrades, render, black tiled walls and a subtly pitched roof.
Regent’s Canal Dock
Hydraulic Pump House c.1855 - oldest surviving in the world by Commercial Road entrance. Demolished. To the west of Commercial Road locks a small single storey building, which has probably had a variety of uses. The Goad plan of 1891 depicts it as an engine house with steam engine and two boilers, all disused. A small accumulator and a chimney are shown built into the north wall. This wall has clearly been rebuilt but does show some features, which might be original. A 2-inch o/d hydraulic main ending at a flange joint enters the building at the foot of this wall. A transverse wall of Fletton bricks now divides the building. The south part has an internal partition and a low roof of concrete blocks and was probably used as an air raid shelter. During the 1950s the building was used as a workshop. This building appears on the OS plan of 1870.
Viaduct of the London & Blackwall railway. Parallel with Commercial Road. Refurbished in 1984-7 for the DLR. crossing the Limehouse Basin. By George & Robert Stephenson and G.E Bidder, 1839-40.Three magnificent segmental brick arches, each spanning 85ft Original cast-iron railings. Built to carry London and Blackwall by cable. Iron roof over the viaduct to stop sparks getting on the boats and the timber. Closed 1926 and rails removed inn 1926 DLR. The railings are modern replicas, copied from originals near West India Dock, which were removed in the mid-1980s and presented to a museum. Further on, the balustrading thought to be largely original, although no doubt repaired.
Footbridge 1990s spans the canal at the entrance to the Basin making it possible to walk back to the DLR
Rhodeswell Road.
Dora House five storey 1939 solitary example of the L.C.C. s pre-war Neo-Georgian manner.
Maisonettes, six-storey "forbidding L.C.C. 1976. But pleasantly landscaped on the side to the canal
Railway bridge built c. 1876 for the London, Tilbury & Southend line,
Salmon Lane
Ancient way to Limehouse and/or an old route leading towards the centre of Stepney, named after Robert Salmon, local landowner and Master of Trinity House. It became a shopping street for the small district of houses built up in the c19.
Mercers Company housing of c.1845
Cemetery tiny Nonconformist purchased and vested in the Stepney Meeting House by the will of mariner Captain Truelove (+1691). Some good Georgian stones and a single sarcophagus monument. It was attached to a set of almshouses.
Locksley Estate, filling he area between the Limehouse Cut and the Regent's Canal is the begun in the 1950s by the L.C.C. Immediately following their work at Lansbury housing over 3000. Walter Bor was architect-planner in charge, E. Humphrey the architect-in-charge. The intention was to create a neighbourhood, which excluded through-traffic and where amenities and housing were provided in buildings of mixed sizes. Blocks of flats with balconies extending over shops framed by black tiles, 1957-8
Salmon Lane Evangelical Church, Salmon Lane. 1970s. Dark brick, entrance in the three-storey end, the church with large hexagonal clerestory windows below a zigzagging Roof. Hall in basement.
St.James Gardens
Managed by vicar of St, James Ratcliffe
Steels lane
Surviving part of old White Horse Lane
Stepney
Flood Plain gravel on it is imporous clay therefore gets waterlogged.
Second World War Mickey’s Shelter. 3’ hunchback ran it. Canteen run by Marks and Spencer. Underground warehouses.
Stepney and Blackwall Railway junction
Closed in 1880. Line to Blackwall junction until the General Strike then it stopped. Trains from Bow used the spur. Until 1953 three trains a day. Harrow Lane Junction to Millwall Junction. Blackwall railway line from Stepney to Bow Junction 1849. East London Residential did not make a connection until 1854.
Stepney Green.
Named thus in 1692 and was the home of John atte Grene 1367, 'John (living) at the village green', from Middle English. Later maintained by the London County Council. It is a long narrow strip of green whch practically an unchanged since the 15th and preserves a rural aspect. City gents retired to Stepney to enjoy the fresh air, and some fine houses were built in the early 1700s here. By 1760, people in search of Sunday recreation went to Whitechapel to eat Stepney buns, drink ale and cider. Spring Gardens in Stepney was one of the many London pleasure grounds. In 1702 it was known as Jews' Spring Gardens and was frequented by people from Goodman's Fields.
clock tower dedicated to Dr Stanley Bean Atkinson, which originally stood in Burdett Road and was moved here in 1934.
2A. Listed Grade II, Late 18th house with shop on ground floor. Brown brick , stucco plinth and parapet.
4 Listed Grade II. Early 19th terraced houses. Brown brick with coped parapets.
6 Listed Grade II. Early 19th terraced houses. Brown brick with coped parapets.
35‑77 61‑62 37 best house in Stepney. 1715‑20 Baptist College. 1850 chapel ok.
37 The London Jewish Hospital site. Opened in 1919 when it was mainly supported by the Jewish community, it was the Craft School open to all. The hospital expanded in the 1920s with the addition of a new nurses' home in Beaumont Square in 1939, but was demolished and replaced by the London Independent Hospital, which opened in 1986.
Dunstan Houses were built by the East End Dwellings Company in 1899, one of the many schemes initiated by Canon Samuel Barnett. The architects were Henry Davis and Barrow Emmanuel. The flats were built to provide housing for the honest, deserving poor.
33 Rudolph Rocker, the German anarchist, lived until his internment in 1914. Rocker was the editor of the Yiddish newspaper Arbeter Fraint (workers' friend).
Wickham House. Tower block since demolished. Features in films 'Sparrows Can’t Sing’.
Stepney High Street
Churchyard the most interesting monument is a remarkable pyramid Panelled in stone and inscribed The Wisdom of Solomon' in English and Hebrew with an armorial shield below. A mid-c19 print shows that it formerly stood on a square plinth. War Memorial. Blessing Christ a harrowing relief of a corpse- in no-man's land. By Arthur G. Walker, unveiled 1921. Dozens of half-buried ledger slabs line the perimeter wall, taken from demolished tomb chests, an indication of the c18 affluence of this parish. Railings Reproduced to original design in the 1980s. 3-acres opened to the public as a park. Fountain and seats. Mentioned in Our Mutual Friend. Managed London County Council. A shaded seven-acre churchyard and is the heart of the Mercers Estate Conservation Area. Its close proximity to Stepping Stones Farm gives a strong rural feel to this part of Stepney
White Horse Road.
The medieval route from Ratcliffe to St Dunstan's Church and known from the c14-c16 as Cliff Street. It was lined with houses by the early c17 when its name changed to White Hart Street.
Limehouse District Board of Works Offices, 1862-4 by C.R. Bunch, Limehouse District Surveyor. Converted for Half Moon Youth Theatre in 1994 by Wallbank & Morgan.. The roofline was originally made lively by urns set on plinths. Separately constructed Board Room at the rear, its interior much damaged.
Hamlet of Ratcliffe C.E. School founded in 1710.Neo-Tudor of 1853-4, replacing a schoolhouse erected 1719-20. Two storeys in brick with mullioned windows beneath hood moulds. Canted bay window over the entrance, into sides of which are set two canopied niches, designed to hold charity figures of a boy and girl, now at Stepney Green Primary. Opposite, miscellaneous houses and the White Horse pub. To the N, larger three-storey houses with stucco trim and entrances between fluted pilasters, then a curious Gothic set of flats.
Vicarage built in 1882 for St Matthew Commercial Road. Previously on the site was a house provided by Dean Colet's estate for the headmaster of St Paul's School.
Colet Arms. Named after Dean Colet founded St.Paul’s school. Lived there.
Mercer’s Company housing 1854-5 by George Smith, succeeding almshouses built in 1691 under the gift of Dame Jane Mico. Two storeys in a pale brick with projecting brick porches under stucco pediment,
Pair of former rope walks
York Square
Mercers’ Company houses. Sympathetic treatment. The centre of the Mercers' development 1825 George Smith, tiny but complete with its surrounding streets of two-storey two-bay terraced houses with simple arched doorways. Acquired by the GLC in 1973, and among the first of such terraces to be renovated. They now present a very different image from the dingy, overcrowded scenes of the East End that prompted so much ruthless redevelopment
Downham
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Downderry Road
Steel houses built in 1920s by London County Council
Downham
Residential area developed from the 1920s, named after Lord Downham, William Hayes Fisher,chairman of the London County Council from 1919-20. The estate was begun in 1924 on former farmland, and largely completed by 1930, though the section to the north of Whitefoot Lane was not completed until 1939. A cottage estate (over 7000 dwellings), with small groups and longer terraces, in traditional brick design, laid out along curving and intersecting roads. Laid out on a area previously known as Seven Fields. Roads are named after the old fields.
Downham Way
Winds its way through the estate. Here is the estate's main shopping centre
St Barnabas. A brick building by Sir Charles Nicholson of 1929. The west front has fine brickwork with a large rounded archway, m a circular window above, and an asymmetrical bellcote; otherwise the exterior is not. You enter first a narthex, which was enclosed in 1981, and there are wonderful perspectives as you walk around, especially from the west gallery. Interesting features a include the old organ of 1854, which was originally in The Hall, Southend, was moved in 1922 to the old chapel at St Johns Southend, and was placed here in 1931 the original stone font, wooden pulpit, and painted reredos; a
St Barnabas Hall, of brick but with dormers, also by Nicholson, 1926, used as the church before St Barnabas was built.
Downham Community Centre, was originally Downham Methodist Church of 1929, and became a community centre c1978; it is of plain harmony with the estate.
Downham Fields, a pleasing oblong of grass on a sloping site which undulates and gives good views to the west. Public open space on a gentle hill slope. Downham Estate was built on open land belonging to the old Shroffold's Farm whose name derives from an ancient manor in the area. Habitat of interest focuses on the relatively herb-rich grassland, which is dominated by species such as common bent, Yorkshire fog and red fescue. The grassland is regularly mown by the Borough throughout spring and summer.
4 V2 attack 20thFebruary 1945. 40 people lay injured. The usual shocked silence pervaded the scene afterwards, broken by the activity of rescue teams under floodlights, the WVS quietly attending to distraught requests for information, and the coming and going of ambulances. The wagging tails of Alsatian search dogs brought over from Lewisham showed that they alone pursued their task with a happy eagerness.
Downham Lifestyle Centre. Replacing Downham baths and library.
Downham Tavern. Was in the Guiness Book of Records Britain’s biggest pub. LCC built it in 1930 to hold 1,000 customers. Demolished and became a petrol station.
Moordown
1 V2 attack 20thFebruary 1945. Just that day Clare Farrell, aged 26, and her three children, David, 6, Anthony, 5, and Elizabeth 3, had moved in. Now they were dead.
64-74 V2 attack 20th February 1945. A dozen people died
70, V2 attack 20thFebruary 1945. Nellie French aged 41, and her children, Michael, 7, and Kenneth, 14 months, were also killed.
Moorside Road
Nubia Way, An interesting close of 13 self-build houses 1997, based on the Walter Segal concept and supervised by Jon Broome of Architect. The detached timber-framed houses in a staggered pattern, upper floors weather boarded in brown pine, form a very attractive group.
Downham Woodland Walk, a linear park which runs through the estate, with fine mature trees.
Shroffields Road
For Shroffields Farm
Downha
Bromley Hill
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Bromley Hill
1905. Mean little lodge gone. Lot of amenity trees, 1935 sculpture.
Top of was the 90th milestone from London.
Steel houses erected in 1920s by London County Council Occupation in three weeks from start of building
Coniston Road
Bromley Court Hotel. Built 1767, rebuilt 1801. Was home of Lord and Lady Farnborough with elaborate garden and waterfalls to the river. sold in 1881. The origin of the house is a villa built in 1767, rebuilt, andremodelled c. 1801-11 by Charles Long, later Baron Farnborough. Large and rambling, with many additions. built 1760s on the site of a farmhouse. 1801 bought by Charles Long who became Baron Farnborough. Italianate mansion. In 1881 bought by Samuel Cawston for development. Now the Bromley Court Hotel having been a hospital for Canadian soldiers in First World War Canadian Convalescent Hospital (Bromley Park Hotel)(20 April 1915 ? 31 August 1918) (This was the first Canadian Convalescent Hospital in the Country
Elstree Hill
School board offices porch way. 1874 demolished in 1929
Italian Villa. Lady Farnborough is said to have built an Italian garden at Bromley Hill House. A pond was added to this which is in this area.
House built in 1930 by Alexander Jones.Lady Farnboroughs pond was there.
Self build housing over the area of the pond.
23 The Cottage pump in the front garden by Appleby and Co., Renishaw Works, Chesterfield.served buildings of Bromley Hill House.
Farnaby Road
On Farnaby Road, at the precise point where the gardens make way for a golf course, a stumpy metal post lurks beside an overgrown fence. It was put there by the Ravensbourne Valley Preservation Society to mark both the millennium and the meridian, and still presents two mirrored faces to west and east [photo]. Few pedestrian visitors pass this way and the neighbouring bus stop offers only a token service six days a week. Be in no
Grasmere Road
3-5 was the stables. Hillbrow.
22 1879 Holmescroft Newton.
Hill Brow
22 The Oriels
1879 Holmescroft Newton
Molescroft
58
Hope Lane
1929 old house Hawthorn Cottage in the corner although houses in the area.
Kinnard Park Estate
1910 source of Blackheath gravel beds also sand in the subsoil.
London Lane
Boundary of Plaistow Lodge Estate. The lodge is now a school. It was called Boyd’s Lane from the tenant. Narrow with elm trees.
Ex servicemen's club;
Plaistow and Southend in 1261 part of Manor of Shrafholt.
London Road
Beckenham Cemetery. 1877 by Gear Truefitt. The complete range of ragstone chapels, lodges and mortuary survive and three-arched Porte clochere, arch span in housing. T.Lyle.
Homeopathic hospital of Phillips memorial hospital; opposite bits lady Margaret hospital
Entrance gates to two estates.
Land from Bromley Hill to Ravensbourne Station was part of grounds of Bromley Hill House
Maidstone Road
The Mount, Lodge Stotfold. A&C self-conscious.
58 Hillbrow.
Lee Courtlands
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Eltham Road
Milestone
71 Jeffrey Farnol
Toll cottage on next Turnpike Trust;
Dagoda Villas; 1 William Bowley Dockyard Deptford buried at Nunhead
Tollgate
Harrow pub and Harrow meadow with windmill
Fire Station
Woodyates Road
PO depot, old sorting office and old stables VR over the door
St. Peter's Road
St. Peter's
Burnt aAsh
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Baring Road
Drinking fountain at Harland Road junction. Horse trough and basin, inscription about ‘A drop of cold water in his name’
Fire hydrant iron pavement cover. Made by Stanton with Thames Water logo
Burnt Ash Hill
Driving test centre 4 very early centre;
Rev Charles Prest. President of Methodist Conference Home
South Lee Tabernacle
Congregational Church
117 Crown large Young’s pub
Horncastle Road
Horn Park Farmhouse site on the junction with Alnwick Road
Horn Park Estate.
This well laid out estate was built on former EItham Palace parkland from 1936. Many houses have 'mock Tudor' gables. Estate built partly to rehouse hutment tenants
Part of old palace estate made into a farm. Farm once owned by Woods of Crockenhill
Hornpark Lane
Private development from the 1930s
Colfe’s School. There since 1964. Founded by Rev. Abraham Colfe in 1652 in Lewisham with the Leathersellers' Company. Independent from 1977.
Horn Park
The 12th manor as a bulge in the Eltham Palace boundary so ‘Horn’ may refer to this shape. Called ‘West Horne’ and consisted of 345 acres enclosed in the 15th. In 1481 there was a park keeper with a moated lodge, dairy, barn, stable and orchard. By the 17th it was no longer a park but a farm. In 1860 bought by Thomas Blenkiron for grazing racehorses. Orchards planted in the 19th but the lease ran out in 1930 and development followed. Woolwich Council built on the site of the orchards but was halted because of the Second World War – some prefabs remained there a long time.
Open space provides a good view towards Eltham Palace and Shooters Hill.
Area of park trees all felled for the Navy. Once a fruit farm.
Melrose Close
Old pond railed off as a nature reserve.
Sibthorpe Road
There is a small shopping centre and from here a lane leads to footbridge (the only structure pre-dating the estate) across the railway line, which ruins in a cutting through the estate.
Downham
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Hillcrest
Reservoir
Built after First World War for water from Shortlands Pumping Station or Hilly Fields or Mount Misery - pottery dug up there so possible British settlement. Sundridge Park: Well 1933 new borehole. Water from lower greensand and Worthing engine pump. Not new then. 1934 new oil engines. 1934
Plaistow
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