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Belvedere
Baptist mission chapel late 19th
31 Subsidence in the rear garden. Clare Cottages seven in a terrace built in 1885. A circular pit 2.0m in diameter and 3.8m deep in use as a soak-away for the rainwater run-off from the roofs of the Cottages. A large diameter earthenware pipe enters the side of the shaft and discharges a steady trickle of water. The bottom 2.0m of the shaft had originally been lined with rough brickwork, a portion of which has survived. The bricks were of a poor quality, probably 'wasters' from a local 19th century brickfield. The shaft was dug by the Victorian builders of Clare Cottages as a deep soak-away with two adits to provide extra drainage area.
Bedon stream. This street borders an attractive area of open space around thestream, and further east it opens out into a parkland area with real ruralatmosphere. A footpath leads down from Grosvenor Road to a bridge over the stream.This is the only place where the Bedon stream can be seen; from here it is culvertedunderground to the Thames at Corinthian Manorway.
Bursted
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Belmont Road
Grooms Bakery. Founded by Louis Groom in 1886. Opened here in 1906. Extended 1925. Merged to form the British Bakeries conglomerate in 1955. British Bakeries. Taken over by Rank Hovis McDougall 1957. New buildings 1960
Bursted Wood
Large open space, with a grassed area to the northand woodland-mainly sweet chestnut and oak - to the south.
Bexleyheath
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Bexleyheath
Was Bexley New Town - common land enclosed following Act of 1814 passed to get rid of squatters. Just a tree and a windmill until the 19th. Heath with the main road running over it – highwaymen etc.
Ecclesiastical parish from 1866.
Broadway,
Broadway Shopping Centre, by Fitzroy Robinson & Partners 1983, layers of steeply pitched red tile cladding; and protuberances with steeply pitched red tiled roofs on the open car park on top, panoramic views garish and metallic softened by tropical plants. Outside sculpture. Family Outing, by John Ravera 1985. On the site of Hide’s Department Store and the Lord Bexley Arms.
Clock Tower, in red brick, built in 1911 for coronation of George V. squat and heavy, lower storey is on a stone podium, and the second storey Ionic pilasters. To the west there is a classical stone door case which leads to an electricity sub-station and a replica bust of George V by John Ravera 1990. By the 1960s only non-modern thing left.
Civic Offices, a sprawling building in red brick with black slate tile inserts. Low rise. Its ‘no frills' functional treatment the consequence of 1970s inflation. It was designed by the Borough architect R. D Thornley from 1972 and built in three phases the first being completed in 1977. on the site of Oak House one of the earliest buildings in the area 1817. used as council offices from 1903. demolished 1980
Bexley Tramway Depot. Berthing shed with six tracks for 18 trams built in 1903. site used for the civic office
2 Prince Albert rounding the corner with Erith Road, probably mid 19th century. Note timber-framed windows on the upper floor.
44 Duke of Edinburgh pub, probably c1848. Build by Kidds on the site of Reeves cottages.
40/44 William Place
Lex Garage, post-modernist building 1991.
Trinity Baptist Chapel. 1868
Milestone by Police Station
179 Rose
Bexleyheath Shopping Hall. Due for demolition 2000 incorporates to the rear a brick hall, which was built in 1848 as a public hall, originally called The Athenaeum.
Jenkins and Co.Printers in the 1920s-30s. Demolished 1988.
Bexleyheath Telephone Exchange. Gone
ASDA replaced Bexleyheath Bowl and Regal Cinema
Marriott Hotel. Was the Swallow Hotel.
Cineworld multiplex
East Street,
Erith Road:
Bexleyheath bus garage. LT. windmill nearby. Large concrete framed hangar built in the 1930s for electric trolley buses introduced to replace trams. 2 storey staff block demolished 1959.
Church of St. Martin, This red brick church, is the parish church of Barnhurst, built in 1936. Handsome, with an open bell turret,windows, and a circular window over the brick porch. Outside great brick arched arcades, and a pure white sanctuary, added in 1972.
Woolwich Building Society. Corporate Headquarters. Irregular vernacular pile, with echoes of the Hillingdon Civic Centre, built 1989 by Broadway Malyan. yellow stock brick, topped by tiers of staggered red roofs receding upwards. Heavy pedimented entrance porch leads into a soaring atrium the full height of the building, with glazed lifts and great oak beams at the top. Hanging on the side walls are tall hand-woven silk tapestries by Heidi Lichterman - to the right A Walk into the Morning 1988, and to the left After the Storm 1990. Behind the main building is a complex of more functional buildings of the 1960s, with bands of white tiles and glass.
Geddes Place
United Reformed Church, church 1988 steeply sloping slate roof, out of which a quadrangular dormer projects. Brick crucifix incorporated into the design of the north front. On the site of the Congregational Chapel 1854 (demolished 1987).
Market Place,
Market with an arcade and arches. First mentioned 1831.
5 King's Head
Congregational church,
Ruffles Mineral Water Works. Was the Premier Mineral Water Co. In the old Market Building of 1912.
Mayplace Close
Post windmill built in 1760 by T. Strickland. Taken over by Steven Cannon. Last used 1865 demolished 1870. Abuts the Bus Garage.
May Place Road East
74-80 Sarah's Cottages, Two pairs of 1860, surprising. 76 is the least altered.
First chapel in the area
Mayplace Road West
65/83 group of cottages 1860s stuccoed, with trellised porches.
111 Jolly Millers pub. c 1860. Named for the Bexleyheath Windmill.
58 Bricklayers Arms. Opened 1832 by family of bricklayers. Rebuilt 1906.
Cottages opposite the pub named after wife of the landlord.
Mayplace Road/Erith Road
Millfield House Crayford Windmill
North Street,
Bethany Hall built as Wesleyan Chapel, 1860. It is a pedimented with polychrome Gothic doors and windows.
Pelham Road
Pelham Farm bought by Ideal Homesteads in 1932
Pelham Primary School site given by the developer.
Tower Road
The Foresters Homes complex of 1975, surrounded by grassed grounds, an oasis in this location; gates 1962. Original almshouses built 1873-75 by the Ancient Order of Foresters.
College of Technology
Watling Street
40 Lord Hill - The Coach House was the Lord Hill present appearance probably c1815,year of Waterloo, but dating back in part to the late 18th century. Belonged to the Anglo Bavarian Brewery, then Norfolk Brewery, Deptford and then Trumans.
60/68 Sherston Place, terrace 1843 with blank arches set into the facades.
25/2725. Early 19th century. Note the fine timber window cases and the oriel to the east.
15 Grove Lodge stuccoed house, early 19th century.
70 The Woodman pub
Woolwich Road:
62 Orchard House might have been moved there on wheels. Weather boarded early 19th century house in an isolated location, on the edge of school playing-fields. Moved on wheels to this site from Mayplace Road in 1864.
65/67 Albion Villas. Concrete houses of 1866 by Joseph Tall, with rusticated ground floors. Among the earliest surviving concrete houses.
Erith
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Avenue Road
14 Prince of Wales
Wheatley Mansion,
Congregational Chapel, largely set up by Anderson,
Lesney House, Anderson's home,
Northumberland Heath modern School
Wonderful new grammar school
Bexley Road
Convent School of the Holy Union of the Sacred hearts
Drill Hall and training centre of the 30th AA Workshops Company of REME (TA)
Wheatley Estate,
63-65,
88,
St Mary's
Our Lady of the Angels, R.C. Capuchin Fathers, 1903, church 1963 by Archard & Partners.
270 Royal Oak
Franciscan Friary
322 Duke of Northumberland. Odd assortment of memorabilia
Erith Fire Station. Built 1907 demolished 1960. Housing now on site
Northumberland Heath quarry was taken over by Talbet Estates Ltd 1932 and quarrying ceased soon after. The narrow gauge railway which ran to the newly constructed deep-water wharf on the River Thames was removed too. In the 19th there were store stables and yard, and ballast office and grounds, occupied by the landowner, William Wheatley.
Lesney Park
83
Meyer Road
Leo Meyer was the founder of New Ideal Homesteads in 1929. Rooms were small and prices were rock bottom.
Mill Road
St.Paul's Church. Consecrated in 1901 and becoming a parish church within four years.
Windmill. Built in 1819 on a circular brick base of an early c19 tower mill is part of a boundary wall. Its upper storeys were of timber. 19th smock mill. Last used 1880 collapsed in a gale in 1890. It also functioned as a beacon for vessels on the river.
25
Northumberland Heath
The name has been in use since the 13th and has nothing to do with the northern county – it is ‘heathland north of the watercourse’. Recorded as ‘Northumbere’ 1529, named from an earlier place called ‘Northumbre’ possibly '(land) north of a stream called Humbre', from an ancient preCeltic river name of uncertain origin. The small stream referred to flows into the River Darent. Until late in the 19th it consisted entirely of heath and woodland crossed by the road from Erith to Bexley and intersected by smaller paths and tracks. The village grew up around one of these intersections. In 1800 Northumberland Heath was a 200 acre area of heathland. It was common land under the control of Erith parish but became part of the Wheatley Estate under the Erith Enclosure Act of 1815. The fields which Wheatley laid out are reflected in the current street pattern. For much of the 19th the main buildings were the parish workhouse and a mill. Residential development began in the 1880s and by 1900 a community was established with a church and a school. In early years of the 20th it was the tram terminus for both Erith and Bexley's trams and all passengers were required to change cars.
Park Crescent
76-78,
173,
Hospital, Patients arriving for an X Ray at Erith Hospital often express interest in the unusual layout and from its exterior and interior appearance assume it was originally converted from an old air-raid shelter. The building is almost entirely underground, its roof being a thick covering of earth, grass and trees and is entered through double doors via long sloping ramps to each doorway. It is, however, a most interesting example of a Civilian Field Hospital / Casualty Station, believed to be one of only six of this particular design to be built in the country. It was constructed in 1938 by Erith Borough Council and opened in 1939» being fully operational at the outbreak of World War II. Though it saw only limited use under enemy action it was constantly manned by permanent staff and volunteers during the war years. It was described as being Erith's ' Maginot Lines.' Erith and District Hospital, formerly Erith Cottage Hospital, was built in 1923 and ceremonially opened by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VIII, on 19th. November 1924. The original Cottage Hospital, situated in Crayford Road, Erith, had been opened in 1871, when two villas named ' Sun Cottages ' had been converted to meet the needs of what was then a small riverside village. It had six beds but this number soon proved to be inadequate for an expanding population, so in July 1875; another site was found in Erith High Street, and a larger. Erith Cottage Hospital came into being. This building had accommodation for nine adults and three children but within a few years this, too, had become inadequate. There was, for instance, only one bath for both patients and staff and a patient being admitted was carried bodily into a ward as the stairs were not wide enough to admit a stretcher. By the year 1911 the population had expanded from some 8,000 people in 1871 to about 28,000, so in order to alleviate a growing demand for hospital treatment a Hospital Building Committee was formed and methods for raising funds were discussed. In only two years £13,000 had been raised and a generous gift of land by a Mr. Gunning was accepted, this being situated at the top of Park Crescent. Here the new hospital was built and indeed, still stands. It had a total of twenty one beds but by the 1930's demand had again grown to such an extent that a number of outbuildings and additions were completed. These included a Children's Ward, a Sun-Balcony, a new Outpatients Dept. and Nurses Home. Facilities within the hospital were also renewed or improved; the Operating Theatre was enlarged and re-equipped and an Anesthetic Room was added. In 1934 the first X Ray Dept. was opened. In 1948 Erith Cottage Hospital became part, of the Woolwich Group of Hospitals and its name was changed to Erith and District Hospital It now comes under Bexley Health Authority. Up until this time the X Ray Dept. had been situated in the main hospital building: but in an era when T.B. was still all too common and a much dreaded disease, screening and treatment of patients at the hospital was out-growing the somewhat limited facilities of the existing X .Ray Dept. For instance, in 1939 there were 1962 X Ray examinations but by the following year the number of patients X Rayed had risen to 1,637. Therefore, in 1950, the Field Hospital, unused since the end of the war, was converted into an X Ray Dept., a. function for which it was ideally suited. For a time the Out-Patients Chest Clinics were conducted there several times a week.
Barnhurst
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Avenue Road
14 Prince of Wales
Wheatley Mansion,
Congregational Chapel, largely set up by Anderson,
Lesney House, Anderson's home,
Northumberland Heath modern School
Wonderful new grammar school
Bexley Road
Convent School of the Holy Union of the Sacred hearts
Drill Hall and training centre of the 30th AA Workshops Company of REME (TA)
Wheatley Estate,
63-65,
88,
St Mary's
Our Lady of the Angels, R.C. Capuchin Fathers, 1903, church 1963 by Archard & Partners.
270 Royal Oak
Franciscan Friary
322 Duke of Northumberland. Odd assortment of memorabilia
Erith Fire Station. Built 1907 demolished 1960. Housing now on site
Northumberland Heath quarry was taken over by Talbet Estates Ltd 1932 and quarrying ceased soon after. The narrow gauge railway which ran to the newly constructed deep-water wharf on the River Thames was removed too. In the 19th there were store stables and yard, and ballast office and grounds, occupied by the landowner, William Wheatley.
Lesney Park
83
Meyer Road
Leo Meyer was the founder of New Ideal Homesteads in 1929. Rooms were small and prices were rock bottom.
Mill Road
St.Paul's Church. Consecrated in 1901 and becoming a parish church within four years.
Windmill. Built in 1819 on a circular brick base of an early c19 tower mill is part of a boundary wall. Its upper storeys were of timber. 19th smock mill. Last used 1880 collapsed in a gale in 1890. It also functioned as a beacon for vessels on the river.
25
Northumberland Heath
The name has been in use since the 13th and has nothing to do with the northern county – it is ‘heathland north of the watercourse’. Recorded as ‘Northumbere’ 1529, named from an earlier place called ‘Northumbre’ possibly '(land) north of a stream called Humbre', from an ancient preCeltic river name of uncertain origin. The small stream referred to flows into the River Darent. Until late in the 19th it consisted entirely of heath and woodland crossed by the road from Erith to Bexley and intersected by smaller paths and tracks. The village grew up around one of these intersections. In 1800 Northumberland Heath was a 200 acre area of heathland. It was common land under the control of Erith parish but became part of the Wheatley Estate under the Erith Enclosure Act of 1815. The fields which Wheatley laid out are reflected in the current street pattern. For much of the 19th the main buildings were the parish workhouse and a mill. Residential development began in the 1880s and by 1900 a community was established with a church and a school. In early years of the 20th it was the tram terminus for both Erith and Bexley's trams and all passengers were required to change cars.
Park Crescent
76-78,
173,
Hospital, Patients arriving for an X Ray at Erith Hospital often express interest in the unusual layout and from its exterior and interior appearance assume it was originally converted from an old air-raid shelter. The building is almost entirely underground, its roof being a thick covering of earth, grass and trees and is entered through double doors via long sloping ramps to each doorway. It is, however, a most interesting example of a Civilian Field Hospital / Casualty Station, believed to be one of only six of this particular design to be built in the country. It was constructed in 1938 by Erith Borough Council and opened in 1939» being fully operational at the outbreak of World War II. Though it saw only limited use under enemy action it was constantly manned by permanent staff and volunteers during the war years. It was described as being Erith's ' Maginot Lines.' Erith and District Hospital, formerly Erith Cottage Hospital, was built in 1923 and ceremonially opened by the Prince of Wales, later Edward VIII, on 19th. November 1924. The original Cottage Hospital, situated in Crayford Road, Erith, had been opened in 1871, when two villas named ' Sun Cottages ' had been converted to meet the needs of what was then a small riverside village. It had six beds but this number soon proved to be inadequate for an expanding population, so in July 1875; another site was found in Erith High Street, and a larger. Erith Cottage Hospital came into being. This building had accommodation for nine adults and three children but within a few years this, too, had become inadequate. There was, for instance, only one bath for both patients and staff and a patient being admitted was carried bodily into a ward as the stairs were not wide enough to admit a stretcher. By the year 1911 the population had expanded from some 8,000 people in 1871 to about 28,000, so in order to alleviate a growing demand for hospital treatment a Hospital Building Committee was formed and methods for raising funds were discussed. In only two years £13,000 had been raised and a generous gift of land by a Mr. Gunning was accepted, this being situated at the top of Park Crescent. Here the new hospital was built and indeed, still stands. It had a total of twenty one beds but by the 1930's demand had again grown to such an extent that a number of outbuildings and additions were completed. These included a Children's Ward, a Sun-Balcony, a new Outpatients Dept. and Nurses Home. Facilities within the hospital were also renewed or improved; the Operating Theatre was enlarged and re-equipped and an Anesthetic Room was added. In 1934 the first X Ray Dept. was opened. In 1948 Erith Cottage Hospital became part, of the Woolwich Group of Hospitals and its name was changed to Erith and District Hospital It now comes under Bexley Health Authority. Up until this time the X Ray Dept. had been situated in the main hospital building: but in an era when T.B. was still all too common and a much dreaded disease, screening and treatment of patients at the hospital was out-growing the somewhat limited facilities of the existing X .Ray Dept. For instance, in 1939 there were 1962 X Ray examinations but by the following year the number of patients X Rayed had risen to 1,637. Therefore, in 1950, the Field Hospital, unused since the end of the war, was converted into an X Ray Dept., a. function for which it was ideally suited. For a time the Out-Patients Chest Clinics were conducted there several times a week.
Crayford
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Arthur Street
Baptist missionary hall built by the Queen Street Baptist Church in 1919.
Housing development of the early 1960s with 265 homes in a mix of maisonettes and tower blocks.
Birling Road
Housing built by Crayford Council after the Second World War. 170 semi detached houses using prefabricated units on the Easiform system with concrete panelled cavity walls. Quick, cheap but with modern fittings.
Craymill Estate,
Eversley Avenue
30 Denehole recorded 1951
28 another denehole
Larner Road
Mine. during work in 1985 by London Borough of Bexley for additional tower blocks mines were found.. The site was in the 19th part of a major brick-making industry supplying London Stock Facings and it is possible to trace the depressions and quarry edges left by brick makers. it was often the practice to dig extensive mines for chalk, which was added to the brick slurry to produce the characteristic yellow colour. Test bores found 24 holes to cavities in the sand and gravel overlying the chalk. 17 more test bores near a block of 5, entered cavities either in the chalk or the overlying gravel. A television camera was lowered and pictures showed that the block was being built on top of an old chalk mine. The 1897 O.S. map of the area shows an active clay pit on the site and an engine house with a rail track which branches and terminates at the base of a quarry, the westernmost of these lines led into a drift entrance into the mine.
North End.
Name first noted in 1760.
Northend Trading Estate
Dominated by the building trades.
Pearswood Road
56 Chalk well in the garden
Perry Street
Stonham Brickworks. Flint-knapping floor. One of these caves had passages. Some have fallen in and others have been excavated away. These caves formed part of a series, the sites of some of which can be detected in some of the orchards near, and one has been worked for chalk up to within the last fifty years, presenting a very interesting labyrinth of modern galleries, which have united several old shafts at once.
The great chalk pit was originally a denehole in my recollection. The modern works are for brick-making purposes. It is depicted as a circular excavation some 100 ft. in diameter and 49 ft. deep to the west of Maiden Lane. A single track railway is shown running from the adjoining brick-yard, under the road and into the pit. It goes right up to the wall of the pit and therefore might have continued into the entrance of a mine. The brickfield and quarry are gone; instead there is a steep chalk scarp about a quarter of a mile long. Much of the surrounding land has been worked for gravel also by Stonehams. It does appear however that the piece of land containing the shaft has been left as a raised knoll above the gravel workings.
Denehole. A beautifully preserved Sarnian ware bowl from this hole. There were two pits consisting of shafts leading to beehive-shaped chambers. Dimensions given for one pit are: 25 ft. 6ins. deep with the last 17 ft. 6 ins. in chalk, the pit containing a 6 ft. pile of sandy soil which yielded a quantity of Roman pottery, including the bowl. The holes have since been quarried away.
Slade Green Road
North end crossing. To the west of the church is the old crossing, is now closed.
Corner Pin pub. Tacky attempt to bring glamour to the area.
South Road
1 Britannia Pub
Sports stadium stages athletic meetings up to county standard.
Water-head Close,
The Caves. A radio bulletin on 7.3.1972 said "the hillside is riddled with hundreds of yards of passages and was used as an air raid shelter during the war." Local children knew it as "The Caves".
Barnes Cray
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Barnes Cray
On the site of the medieval manor of Ellam. Named for the Barne family who owned the marsh area. Marked thus on the Ordnance Survey map of 1876, earlier Barns Cray on the 1805 map, that is 'estate on the River Cray belonging to the Borne family'. This family owned land here in the late 18th century.
Laid out for the workers in the Vickers Ammunition Works, 1919. 1915-16 as Barnes Cray Garden Village. This 'garden suburb' with over 600 houses. Mostly concrete, was designed by Gordon Allen and built by Vickers 1915-16 to house munitions workers. It extends in a long rectangle between Iron Mill Lane, Crayford Way, stretching from Crayford town centre to Thames Road. Many houses have survived without major alterations, and despite later infill the estate retains a village atmosphere which is lacking in the other Vickers estates. The houses are in pairs and terraces, and common themes include prominent gables, recessed open porches, and roofs sweeping down . Homes all have at least three bedrooms and half are built of rough cast concrete blocks.
All Saints iron church 1917 closed in 1960
Barnes Road
Groups of houses built as part of Barnes Cray
Craymill Square
Housing development of 1983 in an attractive vernacular style, with nice closes and pedestrian walks. Particularly attractive is the area in centre around Craymill Square, where terraces with swooping slate roofs punctuated, by rows of dormers face other terraces with slate facing between each storey.
Green Walk,
Iron Mill Lane
Named after the mill which made plate for armour.
7/13 Pims Almshouses, attractive composition. 19 consisting of a long one-storey building attached to a more substantial two-storey building to the west. Mr Pim lived at Martens Grove
8a, built as a public wash-house, but then became the rooms of the Young Men’s Friendly Society.
8a/20 a rather sombre Gothic group. 865. The centre of the group forms a sort of square.
12/16, Mrs. Stable’s Almshouses, forming two sides of the square. Mrs. Stable was the niece of Charles Swaisland.
214/226 & 238/256 Two terraces of cottages with round-headed doorways, probably c1860, built to house workers at The Saw Mills
10, the Clergy House originally built by the Swaisland family as a cottage hospital
18/20
St Paulinus School. The section to the left is of 1974, the section to the right of 1983. The earlier part includes a strange building with roofs sweeping down almost to ground level; the hall has a narrow elongated stained glass window. Crayford Junior School. Tom Thumb House bombed,
Deneholes, near Eardmont,
Eardmont big house, called after Earde who founded Crayford
Barnes Cray Primary School. Modern Schools. When the foundations were dug Roman pottery found,
Iron Mill Place
Concrete retaining wall to hold subsidence,
Mayplace Avenue
Perry Street Farm. Anti-Aircraft Battery Encampment. Group of 7 brick buildings with asbestos roofs. Standard military hutments from the beginning of World War II. Verandah to the Battery Office and Guardroom. Used as a house with huts used for farming uses.
Palace Cinema. Later The Astoria. Opened as Bexleyheath Public Hall in 1870. Then a cinema from the early 1920s. Fire and rebuilt 1934. Bingo in 1974.
May Place Road East
Golf Course
Crayford Manor House. This was part of the Place Estate and is used as a community centre This manor covering the western part of Crayford was known by the name of Newbery, in contrast to that of Howbery on the eastern side. For many years Newbery and nearby May Place have remained in the same ownership. It is linked to Barnehurst Golf Course. The earliest record of the Manor House is in the 14th century. May Place was built c1480 and usurped the position of the Manor House, which became a farmhouse but was still called the Manor House. It was rebuilt c1768 and in c1816 with an elegant iron verandah and balcony for the Barne family, who moved away after 1847.The author Algernon Blackwood lived there as a child and the house is featured in his book 'A Prisoner in Fairyland' and described some of his boyhood memories and adventures in his book " Episodes Before Thirty part of the 1768 building remain at the east end. an elegant white mansion in the Italian style, erected early in the 19th century. ". . Crayford UDC bought it in 1938 The and is now run as a very popular and successful adult education centre.
Observatory, constructed in 1960 from an old house; and a e prominent dome added in 1982.
Stable Block accessible through an archway . early 19th century though its appearance has been altered by modern doors.
From the rear of the stables a footpath bears left and leads to the tree avenue to May Place
Garden of Remembrance, In the grounds in memory of local men, women and children who lost their lives in the two World Wars.
Old Road
170 The One Bell
172-6
174 - 176 Listed Grade II, Conservation Area but once considered to be 'at risk'. Probably a C17 timber-framed house, now hidden by later rendered and roughcast walls. Severely damaged after fire
St.Mary of the Crays. A modern red brick Roman Catholic church 1972 with a small campanile; it replaced a church built by August Applegarth in 1842. Altar, font, lectern and tabernacle, of Cornish granite c1985.
St Joseph’s School, mostly modern, but incorporating small Gothic building, which was the original school building of 1866.
Perry Street
Hamlet increasingly industrialised through the 19th.
St. Paulinus’ church occupies an elevated site with tremendous views to the south. Paulinus was a Bishop of Rochester.There was an earlier church in Crayford, probably on this site, in Saxon times. The church is a puzzle - lot of odd bits on the outside. It is parish church of Crayford and is extraordinary in that it has twin naves, with the chancel midway between them. It was rebuilt 1100, and the original Norman church forms todays’ north nave. It was Enlarged in the 14th. There are Norman windows but some have been moved so it is difficult to find out where the Norman bit is and Much of the flint walling has been re-laid and in it are many blocks of tufa, with a characteristically pitted surface. Tufa is a readily quarried chalk deposit which the Normans used as a building stone. traces of the lower part of aNorman doorway can be seen below a window. Traces of Norman windows c1200, rather high up, can be made out.. The Tower was built in 1406 but some of it looks earlier.. Most of the windows were replaced in the 15th century, and these are the square-headed ones we see today – although some were destroyed in a powder explosion. A restoration in 1862, did not substantially alter the appearance of the church although the chapels were extended. The interior is of great interest and has many fascinating features, in particular monuments to the Draper family and to Elizabeth Shovel. note the conjectural drawings of dates in the church's history on the wall of the porch. The font is 15th century. The dominant feature of the interior is the arcade which is 15th centur.. The handsome pulpit is 1630, as is the open timber roof. There is a 16th century parish chest. In the middle of the chancel is a painted altar-table, designed by James 1895; behind is the painted triptych of an earlier reredos. in the south wall is a stained glass figure of St Paulinus 1899; this, and another window ijs the only stained glass to have survived the war – but there are Several windows of colourful modern stained glass by Hugh Easton 1955. Note the Howbury Chapel and May Place Chapel. The most outstanding monument is the Draper Monument - large of black and white marble, with figures of the wife lying above and behind the husband, two children and right at the bottom, a still-born child in swaddling clothes. Also outstanding is the large monument to Elizabeth Shovel, widow of Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovel, 1732 - it has much elegant detail - canopy, the putti, the sarcophagus. Others include: Blaunche Marlar cl600, with a knee figure; Margaret Collins 1732, a cartouche with inscription ending with an interesting verse,; Ro Mansel 1723, of grey-veined marble; Henry Tucker 1851; Elizabeth Barne 1747, with classical details; Robert Mansel 1723, Large plain standing monument of grey-veined marble; Margaret Collins f 1732. Leathery cartouche with two putto heads; Henry Tucker 1851. Several more tablets in the nave.
Churchyard . athe entreance is through fine Gothic lychgate of 1873, it is extensive picturesque and crammed with tombs; lying high above the road behind a brick stone retaining wall. tombstone to Peter Isnell, parish clerk for 30 eears with a now illegible verse inscription of 13 lines, 6 ending with 'Amen' and the other seven rhyming 'Amen'. table tomb of David Evans, the local textile printer, and his family. memorial stone to General Thomas Desaguliers, superintendent of Woolwich Arsenal for 32 years.
Iron Age settlement, west of the church. The settlement was discovered during building operations and appeared to consist of a series of storage pits and gulleys (possibly hut foundations) containing Iron Age A, B, and C pottery. Crayford was probably the Roman Noviomagus, situated on the Roman road to Kent.
Manor House. The original manor house was north west of the church.
Shenstone, Applegarth's home, site of Iron Age settlement, owned by the council in 1947. Iron Age settlement, to the west of the church Roman tiles. All roads converge here.
Victoria Scott Court
Orchard House of Russell Stonham Hospital. The focal point of new housing development of c1980 is a substantial and attractive Victorian Gothic building of 1868 (extended the left, probably in the 1890s). It was formerly the Russell Stoneham Hospital and was originally known as Orchard House.
Stonham's Pit. Old Stone Age finds. Possible flint mine and chalk mine. Just to the north at the end of Burgate Close Stone Age flint implements discovered 1880s under the brick earth. Chalk was extracted on an outcrop west of the clay working and at the same time. Also filled in at the same time.
Village Green Road
Dell open space near the junction of Maiden Lane and Crayford Way
Groups of houses built as part of Barnes Cray
South Hackney
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Bentham Road
Gascoyne Estate, 1950s London County Council housing. First slab block inspired by Le Corbusier. Brutalist block first use of Alton like forms in Hackney. Large and protracted LCC/GLC post-war enterprise (1947 onwards). , built 1952-4, when the LCC Architect's Department was at its most adventurous. The engineer was F.J. Samuely. Eleven storeys.
4-28 1860. 1860-2,mark the shift from classical to tentative Gothic detail, withcoloured brickwork and pointed hoodmoulds
Berger Road
Berger’s
Bohemia Place
Clapton bus garage
Brenthouse Road.
Hackney Synagogue 1896. By Delissa Joseph, enlarged 1936. Red brick with stone bands, triple-arched side entrance with pediment above. Stately galleried interior lit by clerestory lunette windows.
Brent House. More appealing 1931-2 by IanHamilton. three ranges arounda small garden, built for Bethnal Green and East London HousingAssociation
Bridge Water
Bridge over the brook
Cassland Road
20-54 Hackney Terrace. Curved rooms. A semi-circle of 1860s villas It is the earliest survival in this area, a symmetrical composition of 1792-1801 of plain three-storey houses arms of the three developers, which included architect, William Fellowes. The enterprise was organized as a building society with subscribers, houses had not only private gardens but a communal pleasure ground behind.
South Hackney Upper School. Grand design of London School Board. 1902 T.Bailey. As elsewhere in London, the type developed from the 1870s, to the full-blown formal three-decker compositions of T.J. Bailey of the 1890s
Chatham Place
Continues past c 20 flats and factories on the sites of c19 villas.
St.Luke’s church. 1871 random ragstone. By Newman & Billing, routine Decorated random ragstone. Early English. Tower and spire 1882; Stained glass window 1950 by H. Vemon Spreadbury.
Hackney Free and Parochial School. 1811. Rows with other schools. Lots of fights with other boys. School moved in 1895 building became a laundry and then a furniture factory. Demolished 1969.
27 Burberry Factory Shop
Morningside School. 1884 Board school. Tall, with turrets. A large variety of lively skylines still tower above Hackney's streets of Victorian terraces and their c20 replacements. As elsewhere in London, the type developed from the 1870s, with E. R. Robson's picturesque asymmetrical buildings in the tradition of Philip Webb
Christchurch Square
1969-76 is by the same firm as Gore Road. low-rise housing on the site of a demolished church.
Church Crescent
Buildings of the 1840s by George Wales, surveyor to the estate.
St.John of Jerusalem. Landmark for the Luftwaffe – towards the end of the war the spire was demolished by a rocket which exploded prematurely in mid-air. The present green copper covered spire was lowered into place by helicopter. . South Hackney Parish Church By E. C. Hakewill, 1845-8 replacement of the Well Street chapel of ease of 1806-10.
Tunbridge Wells - Kentish place names round about. The man who built the church came from there
Semi-detached housing by Colquhoun Miller - interesting, but forbidding.
Monger Almshouses rebuilt in 1847-8. Tudor doorways, shaped central gable, and an oriel with lozenge glazing. Before turning right across Well Street Common, you originally built in 1670, for the use of six poor men over sixty years old. The widow of Sir John Cass got into trouble in 1732, when she allowed some women to lodge there. The building was entirely rebuilt in the middle of the 19th century, although some of the original stonework was re-used. In Cass Charity.
1-2 villas are of the same date as the almshouses also Tudor, with gables,
Group with echo the villa form semi-detached white-rendered by Suhoun & Miller, 1981-4, with dramatic deep eaves overhanging off set balconies and Mackintosh-inspired detail.
Churchwell walk
Railway has interesting brickworks
Clapton Passage
Corner Clapton road was the large house Priestly lived in 1791. Red brick wall is probably a remnant of it.
Collent Road
warehouse, for James Taylor dated 1893.
Cresset Road
Lennox House. Experimental post war housing By J.E.M. McGregor, the Professor of Architecture at Cambridge. Ideas that space below the flats should be used for market to subsidise the rents. 1937. built for the Bethnal Green and East LondonHousing Association.
Cardinal Pole school annexe. In the buildings of the old French hospital. Old Huguenot foundation. Now a Catholic school. Built for 4-0 men and 20 women replacing building in Old Street.
Elsdale Road
Maternity and welfare clinic. Period piece by the Borough Engineer. Percival Holt, Streamlined, brown brick. 1938-9.
Flanders Way
Berger School. ILEA. Homerton, has low clustered polygonal pavilions with little pyramid roofs.
Frampton Park Estate
Pitcairn House
Fremont Street
A tight enclave of stuccoed terraces begun in the 1850s but mostly datingfrom the 1860s.
Gascoyne Road
LCC flats completed 1947, are five-storeyed, with a series of projecting balconies,
Homerton Station. 1st October 1868. Between Hackney Wick and Hackney Central. North London Line Silverlink. North London Railway. Although smaller the original station building would have been like those still at Hackney Central and Camden Road. The present station was built when passenger services were restored to the North London Line in the 1980s.. The original entrance in Barnabas Road was part of a huge single storey building, taller than the adjoining railway bridge. At track level, it was protected by canopies which stretched about two-thirds of the platforms' length. By 1898, the demand for Workmen's Tickets had become very heavy and the Sweetmeat Automatic Delivery Company were asked to supply dispensing machines at certain stations and such was the need here that two were installed. it closed with the rest of the line in 1944. After closure, the structure became dangerous, and although it survived into the 1950s, it was eventually demolished. Following the re-introduction of passenger services over the line, a new station opened on 13th May 1985 on the site of its predecessor, and uses the original passenger subway, but the platforms are shorter. The rebuilding was approved by the GLC Transport Committee in January 1984, and cost £440 000 to complete, with the necessary finance provided by the Hackney Partnership Scheme. The lower section of original frontage remains standing, and there is a worn down stone step, which once led into the booking office.
Cattle creep Beneath the west end of the platforms runs a very low arch, which was constructed as a cattle creep and provides a souvenir of the early days of the line when cows grazed in nearby meadows
Gore Road
Terraces and infilling. Uniform stucco trimmed around Victoria Park 1845
Kenton Road
Was built up with regular terraces in the 1860s,
Shrubberies. Managed by Hackney District Board
Kenton Arms. Cheerfully flourishing a decorative corner gable with swags and prettycornice.
Kenworthy Road
Immaculate Heart of Mary. 1873. 1952. Only walls stone. Convent of the Sacred Heart. Began as a country house, and still has a five-bay wing of c. 1800; arched first-floor windows on the E side, a shallow bow much hemmed in.
Lauriston Road
c19 realignment of Grove Street, an oldroute, runs through a well-preserved enclavedeveloped from the 1860s by the Norris estate, the roads around the perimeter of the park were laid out by theCrown Commissioners at the same time as the park, but development was slow
Trinity congregational church. 1901. By P. Morley Harder.
Earl of Ellesmere. Possible old Godson’s Brewery.
Jews Cemetery. High walls. Hambro Synagogue. Granite sarcophagi on paws. Closed 1886.
The Workshop
Slips. Managed Hackney District Board
Triangle, Managed Hackney District board
Pottery and turning point for horse trams
Independent Chapel. Ground Managed by Hackney District Board
Assemblies of God. Was Hampden Chapel. 1847.
Loddiges Road
Lot about Loddiges. 12743-1826
Mare Street
Mare Street. ‘Merestret’ 1443, ‘Meerstreete’ 1593, ‘Mayre street’ 1605, ‘Marestreete’ 1621, that is 'street of houses or hamlet on the boundary', from Middle English ‘mere’ and ‘strete’. Mare Street is now the main street of Hackney, but was originally a small hamlet at the extreme south of the parish where the road meets the border with Bethnal Green. Like so many old commercial thoroughfares, is a late c19 and Edwardian jumble with neglected late Georgian frontages visible intermittently above shop fronts?
224-228 a late c18 group dating from 1780-1, built by Joseph Sparkman.
Bus Depot site of black and white house. Hackney Brook through the grounds
Meynell Crescent
1890s
Meynall Gardens
Hampstead Garden Suburb cottages. 1932. Remnants of previous house in the gardens. A.Savill picturesquely laid out at the end of the common. oasis of the site of a house of 1787 - some remnants remain in gardens.
Morning Lane
Money Lane on Roque.
Corner was the Green Man.
Chatham Place was country lane.
North is the valley of the Hackney Brook.
watercress beds. Several long ditches, or rather trenches, filled with running water. one of the artificial streams for the continual growth of watercresses for the London market.
Houses built by Fox.
Paragon road
Hackney Free and Parochial Church of England School. Early post war secondary school replacing 1811 building, 1951. By Howard V. Lobb & Partners, 1951, a very early post-war secondary school, replacing a building of 1811. AExtended 1995 by Barren & Smith. Science block, English department and gymnasium.
71-83 an group built 1809-13; The development was on land of St Thomas's Hospital, Southwark, and the design possibly by the hospital surveyor Samuel Robinson, or by the builder Robert Collins.
Post Office 1928. Changed use. Tall stretched-out Neo-Georgian
Penshurst Road
Penshurst Arms dated 1864.
Ram Place
Gravel Pit Chapel where Priestly preached. 1790s. Wedged between other building as industrial use. Board school on site of Gravel Pit. 1810 new chapel built. Faces towards Morning Lane. The Gravel Pit Chapel was established as a small break-away group in 1804 from the Ram's Chapel, Homerton. The Old Gravel Pit community were a Congregationalist group. In 1810 they took the lease on the Morning Lane site. By 1853 the congregation had quadrupled and an extension was built. However in the 1860's with the congregation increasing all the time and the lease expiring in 1871, it became clear that new premises would have to be found. Besides this the building was found to be in an alarmingly precarious structural condition. This was discovered by an old man who dozing off one Sunday, so the story goes, felt the pillar against which he had rested his head move. He reported this to the church authorities and it was discovered that rather than supporting the ceiling the pillar in question was actually hanging from it, as were several others in the building. Considerations of safety accelerated the decision to move. The Old Gravel Pit Chapel saw its last service on 23rd April 1817 and the new chapel in Lower Clapton was inaugurated on 26th April 1871.
Plaque to Jospeh Priestley, 1733-1804 which says 'scientist, philosopher and theologian, was Minister to the Gravel Pit Meeting here in 1793-1794' . Priestly was born in Fieldhead nr Leeds, and is best known as the chemist who discovered oxygen, nitric acid, hydrochloric acid and sulphur dioxide. As well as for their individual uses, he claimed he improved methods for studying gases, in order to benefit mankind. Later, as a result of a religious experience, he became a Unitarian Minister. The Gravel Pit Meeting, was a large gathering of like minded people who supported the aims and principles of the French Revolution. Priestly, for his part, preached a like revolution for Britain, this wasn't exactly appreciated by those in power. They, via the local police, organised a mob to ransack his home and fire it. In 1794 he was persuaded to emigrate to America,where he was given a hero's welcome. Plaque erected 1985.
Retreat Road
Site of pond where the brook went
Junction with Mead Place Retreat Almshouses 1821 for dissenting widows. Gothic revival. Bombed and demolished
Rowe Lane
17 A family home with sustainable attributes including natural building materials, harvested rainwater,
Shore Road
Once called Water Gruel Way
18 site of Shore House now gone. 1570 belonged to the Knights Templars.
19 bits of the old mansion house found in the gardens
South Hackney Common
Was Lammas Lands so common land but shut off for a lot of the year.
St. Thomas’s Place
Between the gravestones and the strip ofgreen. A typical stucco-trimmedterrace dated 1859, with earlier reset stone of 1807.
Urswick Road
Was Upper Homerton Road. Truant board school.
Valette Street
Valette House London County Council flats. 1906 on site of Jerusalem Square behind it, in Valette Street, tall very plain built for those displaced by the widening of Mare Street.
Hackney Trades Hall 1912 built as HQ of Friendly Society
Victoria Park Road
Anarray of plain mid-Victorian detached villas,
220 Bedford Hotel 1870, givencharacter by its paired arched windows to the upper floors.
Royal Hotel. Stuccoed
The Falcon and Firkin Brewery one of a group of pubs in London – which were owned by Midsummer Leisure - which brew three or more ales, to the same recipes, in each of their pubs.
Shopping centre. Liberties type shop. Behind it where the horse drawn trams turned round. Pottery was a Coach House - the Metropolitan Tramway Company’s drivers’ restroom.
Hackney Forge
Parkside Library. 1964 Gibberd
Cardinal Pole School. An annex occupies the former French Hospital by R. L. Roumieu, 1865. Built to house forty men and twenty women over sixty, replacing an earlier building in Old Street.
Warneford Street
A tight enclave of stuccoed terraces begun in the 1850s but mostly datingfrom the 1860s.
Water Lane
Brook along it skirting Berger Factory
Lord Nelson was the Woolpack Brewery. On the site of the brook by a bridge. Viaduct of the railway goes over what was the brewery yard.
Wyke Estate built by London County Council on the site of the Berger factory
Berger's Paints. one of the largest local industries,established on land off Shepherd's Lane in 1780, and surviving hereuntil c.1960
Well Street
Centre of an old hamlet. Marked by a jumble of low shops and street market. With the typical c19 development ofsmall industrial concerns behind.
Well Street slips
152 site of the Eagles where Morley MP and father, the Nottingham hosier, lived.
Magnificent board school. Opposite site of charity schools
Shuttleworth’s Hotel includes the Hand in Hand and the Widows’ Home. Asylums for the Jews, which also became warehouses.
Next door Hackney Depot was LGOC Horse Tram Depot
Market
Junction with Palace road where Forsyth House is was site of Priory of St.John of Jerusalem. Supposed to have been a Pilgrim Rest place. Gone by 1831.
Well Street Common
One of the few green areas in East London where there are no adjacent towers of flats to diminish the sense of space. one of the old stretches of common land which have survived . On a quiet evening you can almost see the sheep munching away. Elms gone. Last bit of old Hackney Park. Path to South Hackney. Probably a well at cottage place near where St.John of Jerusalem Priory was.
Estate & Cassland Estate. Probably called Botany Bay & charity of Sir John Cass. Thomas Cass father was carpenter to the Royal Ordnance. Mr. Cass lived in Lauriston Road or before it was built 1690s. French Hospital in garden of old rectory.
Wick Road
Jumble of low shops and street market
Victoria Park
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Approach Road
principal street lined on each side by mature plane trees. Its proportions are commensurate with a formal grand avenue but it begins oddly, off the minor Old Ford Road at the edge of the Green. Pennethorne had hoped to drive it through the open space of the Green to provide a continuous street from Bethnal Green Road; even in 1874 efforts were still being made to achieve this by the MBW. In spite of later rebuilding much of the avenue retains its 1860s terraces, The junction at the top of Approach Road where it enters the park was ravaged by bombing (including the destruction of Bonner's Lodge) and much rebuilt post-war, diminishing the strong axial layout of the original plans
The Approach Tavern. Became a gallery. by B. Hammock & Lambert, 1860, was in matching style but was reconstructed above first floor, after bombing,
Raine's Foundation School. one of several institutions drawn to the area near the park in the late c19. 1887 by T. Chatfeild Clarke. Built as the Parmiter's Foundation School, established by Thomas Parmiter, a silk merchant, in 1686. Hall with timber hammer-beam roof. Contemporary iron electroliers. science block, 1962 by Sidney Lowett. Brick with horizontal casement windows with concrete dressings. Extension of c. 1985 for the Raine's Foundation School, previously in Arbour Square . Set into alcoves are figures of charity children, copies of an original pair taken from the first school in Wapping. Further extensions behind, 1995 by Michael Madgwick.
Methodist Church, rebuilt 1959, large. By J. C. Prestwich & Sons. A modest L-shaped group on a classical building of 1868 which was the largest Methodist church in Bethnal Green.
Reynolds House. In the angle of Approach Road and Bishop's Way. 1951-3 by Donald Hamilton, Wakeford & Partners. Built as the Borough's contribution to the Festival of Britain
Bishop’s Way
The Bishops of London were lords of the manor of Stepney, and their old house was now partly within what is now Victoria Park. no longer the grand thoroughfare to Hackney Road, with much of its street frontage lost to inward-facing post-war housing,
St Elizabeth Primary School. 1955 dull
St John the Baptist Primary School 1960s dull
Wellington Estate LCC built from the late 1930s on the site of the Waterloo Workhouse, 1841
Bonner Hall Bridge.
Canal BridgeThe original design for the bridge itself was rejected by the Canal Company as being too elaborate and costly to maintain.
Superintendent's Lodge Pennethorne built an elaborate lodge which was bombed during the war.
Piers part of superintendent’s lodge. Pennethorne’s large and fanciful piers, which still mark the entrance to the Park across the bridge.
Bonner Road
The Bishops of London were lords of the manor of Stepney, and their old house was now partly within what is now Victoria Park. Named from Bonners Hall 1745, 1822, Bishop Bonners Hall 1808, earlier Bisshops Hall 1495, a former house of the Bishops of London, lords of the manor of Stepney, one of whom. Bishop Bonner, was here in the 16th .
Board School by E.R. Robson and J.J. Stevenson. Built 1876, at a time when pressure was immense for new schools in the dense East End parishes. It "bears the relief of Knowledge Strangling Ignorance by Spencer Stanhope that appeared on some of the earlier Robson schools,
two-storey weavers cottages. swept away in the 1960s,
former Brush Manufactory. became artists' studios. an indicator of the area's quickly declining character.
London Chest Hospital. A large triangular site built on the site of the manor house, where Pennethorne had originally planned ornamental gardens. Founded 1848 by philanthropic City bankers and merchants; built 1851-5 by F W Ordish on a site originally occupied, by the Stepney manor house, demolished 1848. The scheme was promoted in 1851 for a 'crystal sanatarium' by Joseph Paxton, a version of his hothouse at Chatsworth, and intended as an air-conditioned pavilion of a type that Paxton had been promoting for all hospitals. It was the first consumption hospitals in London after Francis's Brompton Hospital, Kensington. figures, possibly Samaritans, and a later figure of a woman carrying flowers. Keystone figure of Christ. The original layout of wards was, on a corridor plan and ventilated by a revolutionary system of regulating cold and hot air devised by W.Jeakes. Extensions wing of 1863-5 by William wing of 1871-81 by Beck & Lee was rebuilt 1983. Octagonal tower 1890—92 was part of the improved sanitary arrangements; a second tower was not built. Open, cast-iron sun balconies added in 1900 have been enclosed. Prominently linked to the wing, the Outpatients Department of 1972 by Charles Tarling of Adams Holden and Pearson. Octagonal, concrete-framed three-storey tower for day rooms and single-storey treatment wing. At the rear of the site a long, two-storey Nurses' Home of 1905. The chapel by E.B. Lamb, 1858-60 was destroyed in 1941.
Prince Albert.
Church - When T.B. Stephenson was transferred to Bethnal Green in 1871, he found a row of disused workshops next to the chapel, a Victorian predecessor of the present church at the junction of Bonner Road and Approach Road. These were converted to provide the premises he needed to continue the work he had begun among children in need in Lambeth, and remained the headquarters of the National Children's Home until 1913. Two snarling dogs given to London County Council and are the Dogs of Alciades
Calton Square Gardens
Three quarters of an acre opened by Princess Louise in 1845.
Cranbrook Estate
Post-war clearance of fifteen acres of c19 terraces was designed to reduce the population density to 136 persons per acre. 600 families were to be housed in the estate a mixed development completed in 1961-8. This was the last, and largest, of the three estates designed-for Bethnal Green by Skinner Bailey & Lubetkin, of Tecton,
Fountain In the centre of the green. Elevated and of overlapping stone sections
Statue of the Blind Beggar and his dog by Elisabeth Frink. Commissioned by Bethnal Green Council in 1957 and installed in 1963. The tense composition the much-loved mythical subject in a rough, battered style that is both appealingly vulnerable and serious. Her first commission.
Community centre, by Pentarch, 1993, .
Cranbrook School late c19 school now flats
Cranbrook Place.
Phoenix Engine Works. 1880 Lane and Reynolds. Who sold 8,000 engines in 1881?
Connor Street
Lauriston Studios 1990 Pankaj Patel and Andrew Taylor conversion of former stabling set between rows of 19th-century terrace housing
Gore Road
crescent of the 1870s and some infilling by John Spence & Partnersof c. 1966, planned as low-rental housing for local professionals.
Greenways Estate
The 1949-51 by Donald Hamilton, Wakeford & Partners standard five-storey balcony-access flats of the pre-war type with blocks containing shops along the main road. refurbished by Levin Bernstein in the 1990s next phase was built 1956-9 by Yorke Rosenberg & Mardall, architect in charge, J.S.P Vulliamy,
Sulkin House cluster blocks designed by Denys Lasdun of Fry Drew Drake & Lasdun, 1955-8.
Trevelyan House, Twin of Sulkin House.
Grove Road
the main approach to Victoria Park laid out in 1861 to provide a continuous route between Limehouse and Hackney.
Small shopping centre.
Building like Liberty’s. incongruous addition to the North West quadrant, which must have been added when the Liberties building, behind Regent's Street, was all the rage.
pottery, originally a coach house, was for a while occupied by the Metropolitan Tramway Company, possibly as a rest room for drivers and conductors.
Crown Gates. park entrance with regal lanterns on ironwork piers,
Llanover Lodge. Picturesque Neo-Tudor
Lakeview Estate compact 1956-8 by Skinner, Bailey & Lubetkin:
Hertford Union Canal.
Linking Regents Canal and the Lea. 1¼ miles with three locks. It was opened in 1830 by Sir George Duckett. It provided a short cut for traffic from the Lee wishing to travel up the Regent's Canal and the Grand Junction Canal to the Midlands. It is essentially a cut on the Lea Navigation. It is a mile long.
Royal Victoria Place, houses of the 1980s with studio windows and balconies.
Bow Wharf was Victoria Park Wharf. A group of former industrial buildings on the canal's side, originally they comprised a three-storey warehouse of 1901 became Jongleurs and the former Victoria Veneer Mills which has buildings of 1896-1912 became a restaurant and fitness centre.
Lauriston Road
Jewish Burial ground part of Hamburgh Synagogue and dating from 1788. Bottom end
Three Colts Tavern which blocked the road. Crosswise, was subsequently moved
Sir John Cass lived.
Hampden chapel 1847
Lauriston Road South
Mitchell’s Brewery and tap.
Norris Fields going to Shore Road.
Malcolm Road
Sculpture of woman with a fish. Was a fountain on corner?
Mowlem Street.
Mowlem Primary, 1997 by Paul Irons.
Old Ford Road
Predominantly of the 1850s and 1860s, mostly erected in the aftermath of the creation of Victoria Park. Two-storey terraces with paired doorways in wide round-headed stucco architraves.
Bridge Wharf. Nurses' home for the London Chest Hospital by Pentarch, 1998.
Royal Cricketers. On banks of the canal. Cellar bar is Butty Bar after the canal boats. c. 1850. Here the ancient shape of the road combines with views along the canal and into the park in an unexpectedly attractive manner.
Houses. In the centre, infill built in 1987 on the site of the Royal Victoria Music Hall (demolished 1983).
Crown Hotel. Crown property ornate curved front one of the typical large 'hotels' which sprang up around the entrances to the park in the 1860s.
Park Road
Horris House in old people’s flats was almshouses for widows thrown out of Mongers’ Almshouses.
French Hospital
Regents canal
Acton’s Lock. Joe Acton was the land through which it was dug.
Dug through Bishop Bonner’s fields. The canal was through land previously known asBishop Bonner s Fields' in which once stood the residence of Bishop Bonner duringthe reign of King Henry VIII. The unpopularity of the Bishop may be gauged fromallusions to him such as "Bishop Bonner, the sworn enemy of Protestant the awful Bonner exercised his tyrannical and cruel sway’
Bonner Hall Bridge was the main entrance to the park. the bridge across the canal was the main entrance to the Park and iscalled Bonner Hall Bridge - the elegant brick columns, up on the right of Thisused to carry the gates.
Horse ramp
Old Ford Lock different from Old Ford Locks, was Longford lock.
Back pumping station and stables for change of horses
Access to canal from Old Ford road.
Bridge Wharf basin storage warehouse of North Met. Tramway Company, now Lower East Side Restaurant on Old Ford Road there and the barge basin provides a reception area for lunches and meetings.
Hertford Union. Entrance to Hertford Union or Duckett’s Cut. Notice the widening of the canal opposite the entrance to Ducketts to allow narrow boats to turn when entering or leaving the branch canal
cast-iron stop-lock Bridge, designed to carry the towpath of the Regent's Canal s across the mouth of the Hertford Union Canal.
Barge builders with wharves on canal now gone,
Twig Folly Bridge for Roman Road
The Regent's Canal forms the south-west boundary of Victoria Park
Robinson Road
Sewardstone Road,
Health Centre and Sheltered Housing of the early 1990s by D. Y. Davies .
Park View Estate LCC. 1950-3 by de Metz & Birks, who retained the c19 street pattern
Community Centre and Laundry
Pomeroy House a single block of flats over shops,
Mark and Sidney Houses. two L-shaped six- storey blocks.
Rosebery House. In the centre of the estate on the side, stands, a long four-storey block in brick, staggered in plan to allow views.
Roman Road
Middle Level interceptory sewer beneath it
Drift Road until 19th. With suggestions that it was a Roman road to Colchester. Also Green Street at west end. F
Statue of Blind Beggar & Dog. 1957.
St James Avenue
St James the Less, 1842 by Lewis Vulliamy, reconstructed by J. Anthony Lewis after war damage, 1960-1 his third remodelling in Bethnal Green.
Vicarage vaguely Norman, with three storeys of round-arched windows under a steep gable, and linked chimneystacks.
Gatehouse School. Former Church Schools and Hall 1890 by Elijah Hoole, extended 1901; symmetrical centre to Sewardstone Road with angular doorheads either end or bold tracery within rectangular windows.
Victoria Park
Straddles the border between Hackney and Tower Hamlets. It was created after a petition was presented to the government in 1840, and belongs to the general movement to bring amenities to the labouring classes of East London; it was the first and largest of the new London parks of the c19 designed in 1842 by James Pennethorne of the Office of Works Nash’s assistant, and opened in 1845. Bounded by the Regent's Canal, and by a canal of 1826 linking the Regent's Canal with the Lee Navigation. There was an 1840 Act to buy York House and turn it into a park for the east end. Site of Bishop Bonner’s House demolished 1850. Site of Chartist demonstrations in 1848. Area called Botany Bay. Full of very poor people. Had been common land area in the past. 1861 Some land in the original act was kept for building purposes. 1871 land was got under the act. After a lot of aggro. Not a royal park but Queen Victoria visited it in 1873. And gave bells to St.Mark's church. Poor’s Land included in it. 10 trees planted there, lake, deer, etc. 217 acres. Landscaped with perimeter drives and clumps of trees. Gym, aviary, goats in 1890. Maintained by Office of Works until 1887 then given to Metropolitan Board of Works. House of Commons refused to pay for the upkeep of London Parks in 1886. Therefore London Parks and Works Act. The park is now much simpler than it was in the later c19, when its numerous attractions were much appreciated. Planting by John Gibson introduced sub-tropical vegetation, there were celebrated bedding displays and several ornamental buildings, including a Hispano-Moorish arcaded shelter, designed by Pennethorne. These were damaged in the Second World War and demolished. A bandstand was added in 1865, a greenhouse in 1892. In the 1980s the park was one of the first to benefit from government funding to encourage revival of interest in open spaces. New railings, lamp standards and entrance gates were provided, also a new cafe by the main lake and other improvements. Features in films 'High Heels and Low Lifes’.
Bishops Hall 'manor house of the bishop'. The Bishops of London were lords of the manor of Stepney and the site of the old house is now partly within Victoria Park, but the history of the area is marked by Bishop's Way and Bonner Road. After Bishop Bonner in the 16th the manor passed into lay hands
Lido gone, of 1936, which replaced earlier swimming pools.
Bronze fountain in the flower garden, by Bainbridge Copnall of 1950, moved to Golders Hill Park.
Lake The smaller part was given the more elaborate treatment, embellished in 1849 by a large lake, with waterfall islands, made in former gravel workings. There was once a pagoda on an island in the main lake acquired in 1847 from a Chinese exhibition in Knightsbridge. Smaller lakes were provided in the other part. – were four now only two. ’.
BonnerGate. Pennethorne's Jacobethan gatepiers. Brick and stone. Manor House posh gates from Bishop Bonner’s Palace as was. The chief survival. Pennethorne's elaborate Tudor Lodge at Bonner Gate demolished in the war.
The housing estate on the right, facing the park, has recently been opened up to the canal with brightly paintedsigns.
Stone dogs. Presented by Lady Regnant in 1912. Alsatian type heads with ruffs. Copied from Greek Myron originals at Dunscombe Park
Stone shelters from old London Bridge. According to a Bow Heritage plaquethese artifacts "were removed from the old LondonBridge in 1860 at the behest of Benjamin DixonMP for the enjoyment of the public and presented toHM Queen Victoria by order of the Rt Hon. W.Cowper, First Commissioner of HM Works &Public Buildings."
Whitechapel
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Adler Street
Suffered badly from a flying bomb and was entirely rebuilt. In this small area before the war there was a Jewish reading room and two synagogues and a tiny street of houses off Mulberry Street. The reconstruction plans decreed that this should be an industrial and commercial zone. Named in 1913 in honour of Dr Herman Adler, Chief Rabbi, who was a cousin of Jacob Adler, founder of the Yiddish Theatre.
Adler Hall. The New Yiddish Theatre Company, founded by Fanny Waxman, used Adler Hall from 1936, for its performances. In 1946 they performed The Merchant of Venice in Yiddish, and the cast included Philo Hauser, David and Meta Segal, Max Baum, Joseph and Ida Sherman and Julian Gold, and Anna and Meier Tzelniker.
1-13 so opposite the church are four-storey flatted workshops by YRM for the LCC, 1963-4. .
St Boniface R.C. German church austere toweron the corner of Mulberry Street is a landmark. It is a modern post-war church, built in 1960 on the site of the original St Boniface's German Catholic church, from the 1860s which was bombed. It has an open bell tower. German traders in Whitechapel were mainly sugar bakers or tobacco merchants and workers. Between 1850 and 1890 there were about 27,000 Germans living in London, the majority in 'Little Germany', as the area south of Whitechapel was known. Some were wealthy merchants but about a third were employed in the sugar refineries around Whitechapel - the work was very hot, and dangerous. The new church was initiated by Father Felix Leuschacke, advised by T. Hermanns of Cleve; thearchitects were D. Plaskett Marshall & Partners.
Manse attached to St..Boniface. brick
Black Horse. Ceramic mural of Charrington’s Brewery dray
Angel Alley
Mural of radical writers and anarchists by Anya Patel for the Freeform Arts Trust and the Freedom Press. Including picture of anarchist Rudolph Rocker – hero of Jewish immigrant clothing workers.
Left-wing bookshop for the Freedom Press, here is an East End institution.
The George Yard Ragged School on the opposite side of the alley was demolished for the extension of the Whitechapel Art Gallery
Back of the former St George s Brewery three giant arches with big stone keystones extending through three floors.
Assam Street
Around the churchyard, still conveys something of the chaotic character of pre-war Whitechapel, with domestic terraces overtaken by the rag trade, interspersed with modest industrial building of between the wars,
Backchurch Lane
Old warehouses still line the east side of this and you follow these until a truncated stretch of viaduct appears on the left. This is all that survives of the Commercial Road branch and it follows the south side of Pinchin Street towards its former connection with the passenger line at Christian Street Junction. Once a route to the church at Whitechapel. in the earlier c19 was famous for its vast sugar bakeries, but from the 1890s came to be dominated by the impressive wool warehouses, served by the now demolished goods station built 1885-6 for the elevated London, Tilbury & Southend railway to the docks
L.C.C school. The small block in Back Church Lane was built as a cookery centre.
Peoples' Arcade demolished c1906. used to stage melodramas and boxing matches. In 1911 it was renamed 'Premierland' and from 1925 was known as the 'Premierland Boxing Hall'.
The Dog and Truck, three storeyed, with big tiled roof and tall chimneys in Arts and Crafts spirit, was rebuilt 1935 by William Stewart, with the start of the adjoining Berner Estate
Three-storey range for Kinloch & Co., wine merchants, by Hyman Henry Collins, 1894-5. Converted 1999.
New Loom House, a five-storey former wool warehouse for Messrs Browne & Eagle, 1889. Fifteen bays, divided into units of three, each with ', its own entrance. Converted to offices 1998-9; cranes and upper loading doors have been preserved.
74, a long five-storey block: c. 1900, probably by Holland & Hannen, also for Browne & Eagle. Twenty bays with a blind storey above. Loading bays in every fifth bay. doorway with the firm's name boldly engraved on the lintel
Brady Street
Site of a ducking pond, used for the punishment of wives, minor miscreants, while open fields stretched to the north and south. Home to the Brady Boys Club, which was opened over 100 years ago for Jewish boys, and later girls. The clubs have now moved to north London. Whitechapel Green had a pond and ducking stool and Brady Street was originally Ducking Pond Lane.
Ideas Store
Sainsbury's. The Brewery's extensive works, were cleared for in 1993-4- By D.Y. Davies Associates,
Swanlea Secondary School By Sir Colm Stansfield Smith in association with Percy Thomas Partnership 1993, when it was the first new secondary school in London for a decade. Swanlea demonstrates the ideas of humane school design developed from the late 1970s
1a Brady Reproduction Furniture
37 Jews' Cemetery disused, containing the tomb of Nathan Meyer Rothschild d.1836, the English representative of a famous family of financiers. Ashkenazi cemetery. Also buried is Miriam Levey, who opened the very first soup kitchen in Whitechapel. The site was originally a brickfield which was leased for burials in 1761 for 12 guineas a year. Locked doors. Keepers will let you in. A large walled enclosure, founded in 1795 by the Ashkenazi community. Crowded with mainly later Victorian monuments, some of considerable lavishness and with several to members of the Rothschild family, including Nathan Meyer Rothschild 1836. Changes in ground level reflect the requirements of rabbinical law and layers of burial. There are some beautiful tombs and mausoleums. Although it was closed as a cemetery in 1858, the gardens are well maintained and it is a well hidden gem of Whitechapel.
Mocatta House. This early provision of improved housing is a tenement block by Joseph & Smithem for the Four Per Cent Industrial Dwellings Co., 1905. Built on the site of a Jewish almshouses;
JJs free house. On site of 18thcoaching inn. Wooden beamed house. Was called Yorkshire Grey. Mrs. Bray’s licensee initials
Buxton Street
St Patrick's School was built in 1848 and first used as boys' school and chapel. It was opened by Father Quiblier for Irish Catholics. He invited the Marist Fathers to take over the mission. They taught the boys and a girls' school was opened in Underwood Road, where they were taught by Mrs Mary McCarthy. In 1857 a site was acquired in Hunton (Hunt) Court and the Marist Sisters came over from France to teach the girls. The building has been refurbished into private flats.
The vicarage and church hall of All Saints" Church stood next door to the St Patrick's School building. The church was built in 1839 and demolished in 1951. The site of the church was formerly part of the workhouse of Mile End New Town. The workhouse was opened in 1783 and closed after the passing of the Poor Law Amendment Act in 1834. All Saints" Church was built in the Norman style, by architect Thomas Larkins Walker, a pupil of Pugin. There was also a school founded by the Quakers here in 1812
Cambridge Heath
Nothing to do with Cambridge. Corruption of Saxon name ‘Centbeorht’.Part of heath land on a gravel plateau surrounded by marshes and considered as a ‘waste’ of Stepney Manor. Ancient house there in 1275 otherwise market gardening and hayfields. Windmill there in 1836.
Cambridge Heath Road
Site of Cambridge Heath. Site of Turnpike. Obelisk there in 1890s, Cambridge Heath to the north of the road. The dividing line between Whitechapel andMile End Road, formerly title of Dog Lane
Bethnal Green Hospital l900. Old workhouse. Previously site of pond. Bethnal Green Infirmary Giles Gough and Trollope.
Town Hall - 1910 flamboyant Edwardian baroque. Neatly neo-classical etc. l936 and York Hall l929 Neo-Georgian lively too.
Newmarket Terrace road goes to Newmarket says
London County Council flats back of the brewery frontages to Cambridge Heath Road and Lisbon Street and are fivestones high
2-12 Brewery worker's canteen and billiard room were added c. 1930 by Stewart and Hendry
Chapman Street
Shadwell Station remains – the disused station entrance on the north side of the viaduct. An arched doorway beneath the viaduct served as a further means of access to the ELR station, and is believed to have also led into the interchange footway, which linked the ELR with the former London & Blackwall station up above.
Chicksand Street
Coal depot. Site only. Location of Isaac Glassman's coal depot. Glassman was the father of Minnie Lansbury and together with Minnie's husband, Edgar Lansbury, the son of George Lansbury, was involved in the sale of the Russian Crown Jewels, and seized during the Russian Revolution in 1916. He helped to hide them in the coal shed, while their sale was being negotiated. The money from the sale was offered to George Lansbury to help support his paper the Daily Herald, but he refused to have anything to do with it. Although questions were asked in Parliament about this affair, it is not clear exactly what happened to the money, although it is now known that the jewels found their way to an American museum.
Commercial Road
Built as a link between City and the Docks 1800 across Stepney Fields. 1802 went on to the East India Docks. Originally ended at Church Lane 1870 extended by Thwaites to Leman Street. Built by the Commercial Road Company, from Limehouse Church to Church Lane. Now Adler Street, as a more direct route from the East and West India Docks to the City. And the Whitechapel sugar bakeries. It was extended westwards to Gardiner's Comer in 1870 by the Metropolitan Board of Works. 1880s Irish workers making trousers and waistcoats
30-30a Four storey warehouse belonging to Citytex. Collapsed 2007
111-125 have tall red-terracotta upper storeys with mullioned windows and a gable. Built c. 1900 as the Red House Coffee Palace, a temperance establishment founded by the vicar of St Augustine, Harry Wilson. By Edward Burges who designed similar establishments during the 1880s in his native Leicester. It once bore an inscription: 'A good pull-up for Bishops'
230 Lord Nelson tall 1892 by Bird Walters
Block substantial, irregular four-storey industrial built as St George's Brewery, later John Walker & Sons, in 1847 by Charles Humphreys. Originally roofed by a large water tank; the present roofline must date from c. 1900 when the building was converted for bonded stores.
Brewery Tap scythes hanging from the ceiling. Site of Commercial Brewery closed in 1930s
Cheviot House prominent tower. By G.G. Winbourne, 1937 for Kornberg and Segal, woollen merchants. Now council offices. Borax block.
Clothing factories, on the corner of Gower's Walk, a tobacco factory.
Clothing factories. Used by the CWS;
Clothing warehouse on site of St Augustine's church, which was 1879 by Newman & Billing. It stood between Settles Street and Parfett Street, its tight site occupied by a by new building by Batir Associates, A. Jekvar, 1970-3,
Granite tramway from Brunswick Wharf to the City built by Bidder 1830
Kings Head. Regency building
35a, Morrison Buildings, a five-storey c19 Improved Industrial Dwellings Co. tenement block built in 1874, with the usual stucco trim and recessed central bays with iron balconies and stairs. Originally with a pair on the side of the road. With its iron balconies typical of tenement blocks of the later 19thmodel of its day, featured in the Illustrated London News and later used as a bonded store for whisky. The small building in front, with the classical first floor, was used as a 'duty paid' warehouse.
Palaseum 1911 Freeman’s Yiddish Theatre. Closed within weeks & became a cinema. Asian films.
St.Mary & St.Michael RC 1856 high ship.
542 PDSA moved its head dispensary where they remained right up to the 1950s.
Davenant Street
Davenant schools early 19th.
Deal Street
Housing Victoria Cottages Metropolitan Association for Improving the Dwellings of the Industrious Classes. Built in 1865. Cottages have been renovated and improved. At the time of their refection, their experimental style was criticised for not using the land to house more people.
Durward Street
Previously Bucks Row or Tickle Belly Common or Ducking Pond Row.
T.G.Smith distillers on site of Schnedier’s clothing factory second largest distiller in England in 1832. Davey E Liptrap. in the Boulton and Watt archive in Birmingham scribbled on a piece of paper from around 1811, are the words 'Liptrap, Whitechapel'and are associated with a sketch of a gas making plant. Liptrap bought a 17 inch rotative engine in 1786 from them. He was a partner with Thomas Smith? of T. & G. Smith one of twelve distillers in England in 1832, and the second largest of these.
Schnieder’s clothing factory on the site of T & G Smith, second largest distiller in England in 1832.
Kearely & Tonge. Kearely started in at age of 20. Became International Stores. In addition, he was first chair of PLA as Lord Devenport. 400 branches in 1939.
Coal drop viaduct. In 1866 Great Eastern Railway opened the Whitechapel coal depot. This was renamed Spitalfields coal depot. It was on a spur from the East Coast Railway viaduct west of Bethnal Green. Near Whitechapel, the viaduct crosses the East London Railway on the skew. Two branches passed under the viaduct to sidings on the east side serving 'Essex Wharf’ The arches were divided by a wall parallel to the railway tracks, in the crown of each arch was a hole.
Essex Wharf. where James Brown (London) Ltd, brickmakers and Frazzi Fireproof Construction Ltd traded. The offices coud be seen until the 1980s decorated with terra cotta and with the name ‘ESSEX WHARF’ It was also the site of Iron Co. brick works.
Whitechapel Sports Centre where the contemporary spirit continues. By Pollard Edwards, 1998.
Board School admirably restored by E.R. Robson, now flats. It has a roof playground and may originally have had one at ground floor under an arcade, now infilled.
East Mint Street & Mint Terrace?
Civil War fortifications. Southern side of Whitechapel Road, spire there of London Hospital. Chancel in 15th.
Fairclough Street
Stable block 2-storey. c1900, later used as a garage for steam lorries. Behind is a tall block with painted advert for 'POTTER'S CATARRH PASTILLES'.
The former drug-grinding works of Potter & Clarke, named and dated 1925.
Victoria Mills, incorporating earlier buildings of 1920, extended to the corner with Henriques Street in 1923. Robust brick elevations, four and seven storeys. All by Wheat and Luker. Converted to apartments in 1999.
8-10 are sole survivals here of the earlier c19. Original doors with narrow arched panels
Fieldgate Street
A trackway from Whitechapel to St Dunstan's on early c18 maps. It is a scrappy mix now. Overlooks the grid of streets laid out on the hospital estate from the 1790s.
Tower House. dominates the area since the beginning of the 20th . looming, red brick mass of what was one of the largest of Lord Rowton's hostels, providing lodgings for single men. Designed by H.B. Measures, 1902. Since refurbished as flats. Six storeys with a central gable and turret at each end, the oppressive effect increased by the ranks of diminutive windows, which lit the individual rooms.
31 Grodzinski bakery after generations of persecution, Harris Grodzinski transplanted himself with his young wife Judith to England, along with their two children. the Grodzinskis hired the ovens of a Master Baker called Galevitz and began baking wedding rolls. Mixing a rich dough of the best white flour with plenty of oil and sugar, she made the rolls from two strips of dough, twisted into a little bun, washed with a mixture of egg and water and sprinkled with poppy seeds. Harris then sold these from a barrow in Petticoat Lane market, off Commercial Street. The business continued to flourish, until the Grodzinskis' success eventually compelled them to move to 31 Fieldgate Streer, half a mile away, where a set of coal fired double-deck ovens were installed. Later the family acquired 33 Fieldgate Street which became the home of the Kanareck family, the Grodzinskis' cousins, who for almost fifty years supplied the bakery with flour. The Fieldgate Street shop would open at 4.00am to enable the barrows and vans to load up and begin their rounds. shops were opened throughout the Thirties and Forties in Willesden Green, Golders Green, Hendon, Finchley, Cricklewood, as well as more in Stamford Hill, all supporting local 'barrer' rounds and many with their own small bakeries at the back. The bakery in Fieldgate Street was in full flow at the start of the Second World War, but after several near misses by German bombs, the decision was made to transfer all baking to the relative safety ot Dunsmure Road. on the night of 29th December 1940 when, during a particularly heavy raid, Fieldgate Street received a direct hit and the Grodzinskis''spiritual home was reduced to a pile of smouldering rubble.
57 Converted into flats
Great Synagogue. Rebuilt 1959-60 after war damage, replacing the Great Synagogue of 1899. Typical of the Federation's small synagogues. Plain domestic street front; a passage leads to a full-height room behind, a long galleried space lit by a skylight in the concrete roof, with centrally placed Bimah in the Ashkenazi tradition, benches facing each other and Ark at the end. Marbled cast-iron columns, which must be reused from the older building.
Fordham Street
A colourful group of flats with covered entrances and high, central arch windows mimic the tenements in Romford Street
Fulbourne Street
Named after Hugh de Fulbourne, rector of St Mary's Whitechapel 1329- 36. There was a Socialist club here, which the Russian Social Democratic Labour Party used in May 1907. Delegates included Lenin, Litvinoff, Gorky, Rosa Luxemburg and Trotsky, who was introduced to another delegate, Stalin.
Goodman’s Field
The area south of Whitechapel High Street was open ground in the c16, and known as Goodman's Fields. It was partly divided into garden plots and by the early c17 it was also in use as tenter grounds. The land was bought by Sir John Leman, Lord Mayor of London, whose great-nephew, William Leman, first laid out four streets around the tenter grounds in the 1680s - each given the family name of his relatives, Mansell, Prescott, Ayliff and Leman. these were 'fair streets of good brick houses' in 1717 but most were replaced by Richard Leman and his builder Edward Hawkins in the late c18, when the area was still fashionable. the noxious sugar refining industry changed the nature of the area and this was followed in the 19thby large warehouses. The area is said to have been the site of a gun battle in 1737 involving highwaymen and constables..
Goodman's Fields. Alie Street opens to a vast complex of buildings, collectively known as, of 1975-8 by Elsom Kick Roberts Partnership for Natwest. It stands in spacious landscaped grounds on the site of the massive London, Tilbury & Southend Railway's Goods Depot, 1886, demolished. Two large blocks, originally for computer services and management,
Goodman’s Yard
Goodman's Yard Goods Depot (GER) Site of Hydraulic Pumping Station
Theatre - David Garrick debut.
Farm belonging to Abbey of St. Clair
Goodman’s Stile
Theatre, original of ‘throwsties’ shop in Leman Street. Alternatively, Aycliffe Street opened as a Theatre. More trouble. Garrick’s first performance as Richard III. Demolished 1746 another building there burnt down in 1702;
Farm Fitter,
Gowers Walk
LHP Valve Box Cover. For a valve on a 4ft branch that served the adjacent wool warehouse Later this branch was extended northwards, crossing Commercial Road to join up with another main on Whitechapel Road, thus the branch became a main.
Greatorex Street
Known as Great Garden Street.
Great Garden Street Synagogue in Morris Lederman House has been closed since 1995, and was one of the last Jewish places of worship in the area. The Kosher Luncheon Club has now closed. The Luncheon Club was a favourite place for elderly East End Jewish men and women to have a cheap and nourishing midday meal, and non-Jewish Eastenders also took advantage of the excellent meals served there.
Henriques Street
Harry Gosling Primary School, L.C.C work of 1910; the main block is plain, but the charmingly detailed Cookery and Laundry building, dated 1903, shows T.J. Bailey's flair for smaller buildings: Basil House, 1934-5 by Burnet, Tait & Lorne. Modernist flats for the adjoining former settlement.
Bernhard Baron Jewish Settlement, founded by Basil Henriques and built 1929-30 by Hobden & Porri. Tall, with an imposing arched entrance. Now private flats
First London School Board School.
Hooper Street
Commercial Road Goods Depot. London Tilbury and Southern Railway 1886/7. Built as part of the Tilbury dock system with London Tilbury and Southern Railway Co., became called the Tilbury Warehouse. Although less successful than hoped, lasted until 1967. The course of the line can still be discerned on the north side of Hooper Street, although the viaduct itself has long disappeared. On the side of Lutheran Chapel. This warehouse was initially designed to serve Tilbury Docks, but since tobacco was the chief commodity in store, the building temporarily become a notional adjunct of the Royal Docks. Caverns under called Tilbury. Many Henry Moore drawings of it, old underground warehouses. Demolition of the main buildings mostly took place in 1975, allowing the National Westminster Bank to acquire the land for new premises, but the accumulator tower, being separate from the main complex survived opened 1886-7 to handle traffic to and from Tilbury Docks. Remains listed.
Hydraulic pumping station. Brickwork and flue and the tower storey there. Part of the building with brick viaduct on Duthie Street. Two-storey red brick hydraulic tower. Two accumulators. The wooden signboard was a miraculous survival. Its fading white lettering still included the heading 'LMS' and also referred to an adjoining warehouse, which disappeared some years ago. Engine House designed by the railway's Chief Engineer, L.A. Stride in 1885-6, to power the depot's hydraulic cranes and hoists. Church-like, with high brick tower, slightly off-centre from the 'nave', the flanks of which are detailed in red and blue brick with stone dressings over the arch windows. The red brick hydraulic pumping station supplied power to the LTSR's. Through the window of the tower can be seen cylinders, rams and crossheads of two weight-loaded accumulators. Weight-cases, suspended from the crossheads and containing several tons of sand and gravel have been removed. They ran up as water was pumped into the system and down as it was used by the machinery. The pumping engines, by Sir W.G. Armstrong, Mitchell and Co- were, unusually, on the first floor with four Lancashire boilers underneath.
LHP Valve box cover. Housed stop valves on the LHP mains and branches. Mains were pipes that connected with other mains at each end, while branches were connected to mains or other branches at one end only Mains could be isolated by means of stop valves at each end, branches by stop valves close to the junctions. Just outside the door of the former LTSR accumulator tower which was on a 6ft main laid in 1889 from Mansell Street to Upper East Smithfield via Rupert Street and Leman Street.
Two large wool warehouses built for Browne and Eagle, who had several others in the vicinity. Large quantities of wool were imported through the Port of London, particularly from Australia. Note the large wall cranes and the doorway in the right hand block, for buyers inspecting the wool.
Victoria Mills 1920s facade of Potter and Clarke Ltd. drug grinders and medicated confectionary manufacturers. Their equipment included edge-runner mills. Grinding pans. Vats and stills.
Kingward Street
Originally King Edward Street
Site of King Edward Ragged School, which was one of the largest in the area. The 'Church for the Ragged Poor'
Leman Street
Area of a Roman Cemetary and on the actual area of Goodman’s Fields. Goodman was a farmer who let out fields for grazing, etc. Adjoined the Abbey of St.Clare. Built up by William. Leman & the surroundiung streets are named for his relations in 1710. ‘.Occupied by handsome residences of wealthy Jews’ - houses were bought by a Sephardic community. A main thoroughfare was entirely built up with brick houses by the 1740s but now is mostly c19 and c20. Now ‘the main point of reference in an anonymous district’.
17 German Mission Day School, 1863. Gothic with black and red brick headers and moulded stucco keystones. Established in 1861, possibly in the small building to the rear facing Buckle Street, but rebuilt by Lutheran pastors as part of their Mission to German labourers.
19aEastern Dispensary, grandiose two-storey former of 1858-9 by G.H. Simmonds, local surveyor and the dispensary's secretary. Built by John Jacobs of Leman Street. Repair and refurbishment by Ronald S. Hore c. 1997-8 restored much of its appearance after long neglect. Mannered Italianate with channelled-stucco plinth, round-arched entrance under a balcony and upper storey of five bays of windows beneath segmental and pointed pediments. Founded 1782 by City doctors, it was amongst the first to provide free healthcare to the poor of East London.
40, The Black Horse domestic scale and character. Low-key 1840s with extended ground floor.
42-50 offices by C.A. Cornish 1988-9,
45 commercialism;
52-60, high-fronted red brick tenements of c. 1901, display the poor character of the district at the end of the c19. Built back-to-back with the group in East Tenter Street by N. & R. Davis, Jewish builder developers.
53-5, the drapery warehouse of 1929-30 by the Society's architect from 1916
55-73, 75 and 99 thought the site was a brickfield or large brick earth quarry in the late 18th or early 19th century.'
66 is a genuine 1760s townhouse of a type once common in the area. It stands slightly back from the railed basement area.
70, Mr. Pickwick's, was known as the Garrick Tavern from the early c19, in homage to David Garrick who performed in the Goodman's Field Theatre, Alie Street, in the 1740s. Rebuilt 1854 by Joseph Lavender, who added the large Garrick Theatre behind, demolished c. 1889.
99 at the corner with Hooper Street, of 1885-7 by CWS's architect, J.E Goodey. Six storeys in red brick and Portland stone, rising from a granite plinth with broad windows the lower floors and paired arched openings above set with giant arches. Over the entrance a four-storey canted bay, over the central staircase, has modestly carved emblems of the Society and the cities of Manchester and London. Stress the vertical is an octagonal, corner oriel carrying the square clock tower. Goodey erected tea warehouses immediately behind them. With an open wagon road running between the two blocks to serve the ground floor. Offices were on the first floor, then three floors of large shops with concrete vaults carried on iron columns. The Assembly Room, now subdivided. Still retains part ceiling with ribbed vaulting and decorative plaster. Lengthy extension of 1910 by F.E.L. Harris. Poorly exaggerated Baroque style. Wide and high entrance, open-segmental pediment and oriel window, and an enriched open pediment over its penultimate bays.
100 picks up the dark brown tone, 1978-80 by Brian Shaw & Co. stone-faced ground floor remodelled 1999-2000, which replaced CWS buildings by Heythrop of 1897.
Beagle House by Seifert & Partners, 1976. A nine-storey tower with angled profile, an echo of the firm's earlier Centre Point at Tottenham Court Road
Blue Button' restaurant was the goods office of the London Tilbury & Southend Railway (LTSR).
CWS The magnificent, cliff-like group lining side of the street is testament to the enlightened architectural patronage of the Co-operative Wholesale Society, who were established in the Minories in 1874, moved to a former sugar refinery in 1881 for access to the railway and local markets and quick expanded. Their buildings should be studied Co-op building. . Foundation stone of eastern part laid in 1874 by Thomas Hughes. Western bit in 1887 with imposing clock tower. Foundation stone of eastern part laid in 1874 by Thomas Hughes, Western bit in 1887 with imposing clock tower.
Leman Street Station 1st July 1877. Opened by Great Eastern Railway. Main entrance was south of the viaduct on the east side of Leman Street near Cable Street junction. Another entrance at Backchurch Lane. 1916-1919 closed. 1941 closed through a combination of bus/tram competition and bomb damage. There is a hint of crumbling plaster work and a under the bridge is a bricked-up doorway which once showed evidence of a lamp bracket once hung. Traces of the station can also be seen off nearby Mill Yard. The up platform survived in until the 1980s, when it disappeared under the DLR tracks.
Mr. Kwick’s was Garrick Tavern
Police Station of 1960 by A Dunand of the Scotland Yard Chief Architect & Surveyor’s Dept. . On the site of one of the first of Peel's watch houses, rebuilt in 1890-1.
Rail link into East Smithfield
Sailors Home
Shops low range of earlier c19 flatted shops
Silver eagle Somali cafe
The Brown Bear Public House, c. 1830, is also well preserved, its three N bays with giant, rendered pilasters.
Lion Lane?
Manningtree Street
Around the churchyard, still conveys something of the chaotic character of pre-war Whitechapel, with domestic terraces overtaken by the rag Trade, interspersed with modest industrial building of between the wars,
Mile End
‘La Mile ende’ in 1288, ‘Le Milende’ 1307, ‘Mylesende’ 1395, ‘the Miles ende’ 1603, that is "the hamlet a mile away', from Middle English ‘mile’ and ‘ende’. This hamlet on the old London-Colchester road was so named because it was about 1 mile from Aldgate. It became known as Mile End Old Town c.1691 when the name Mile End New Town was given to another hamlet further west, adjoining Spitalfields. The road itself, here Mile End Road - marked thus on the Ordnance Survey map of 1822 - was earlier referred to as ‘Oldestrete’ in 1383. In medieval times the open land here was much used for recreation and gatherings; it was here during the Peasants' Revolt of 1381 that the men of Essex met Richard II and successfully demanded the abolition of feudal serfdom. Crossroads. Mile End Waste was a traditional mustering place for troops in Tudor times.
Turnpike Whitechapel stretched as far at Mile End Gate, where a tollgate stood up to 1866. Turnpike site. Mile End Gate, at the Mile End Turnpike, was removed in 1866 when increasing traffic made the operation of the toll unworkable. This is where Whitechapel Road becomes Mile End Road. In the middle of the road stood the Vine Tavern, demolished in 1904, which dated to the reign of James I.
Assembly passage.
Baron’s pickle factory, unexploded bomb
Dog Row was name of bottom bit of Cambridge Heath Road.
Mount Street
Whitechapel Mount. On site of the Hospital. 329 ft x 182 ft. removed in 1807. Earth from trenches for Civil War. Alternatively, rubble from the fire.Stated to be 329 feet long and 182 feet wide, and was considerably higher than the adjoining London Hospital.From the summit an extensive view of the former villages of Limehouse, Shadwell, and Ratcliff could be obtained. Mount Place, Mount Terrace, and Mount Street built on the site. 31. East Mount Street and Mount Terrace recall the Mount, demolished in 1830, which was 300 feet long. It was a massive artificial hill which was probably originally a Saxon defensive work. During the Civil War it was greatly enlarged as part of a system of defences for the capital. By the 18th century, trees grew on the mount and paths ran across it.
Mulberry Street
German hostel, 1972 by Flasket Marshall & Partners;
Myrdle Street
Grenfell School. LCC. One of the first of their higher-grade Central schools. A unique, outstanding design by T.J. Bailey, 1905.
Nelson Street
Built up from 1808, apparently prompted by the London Dock Company's attempt to purchase the land. Is typical: terraces of two- bay, two-storey houses with arched fanlights over narrow doorways raised sharply off the street.
New Road
Laid out c. 1772 by the Commissioners of the St George's Turnpike to provide a route to Ratcliffe and Wapping. Its line roughly marks that of the City's civil war defences of 1642.
Mount Terrace built by the Corporation of London, c. 1808, after they had cleared the Mount, part of the defences.
101 Shiv House, a large clothing factory of 1930 by H. Victor Kerr whose Moderne style is much in evidence in this area. For gown manufacturer M. Levy
Gloucester Terrace. Built by several hands. c. 1793-9, but mostly refronted or replaced from the later c19
81 has brashly ornamented upper floors, indicating its origins as the Duke of Gloucester Public House, 1887.
67-75 Empire House 1934 again by H.Victor Kerr. Concrete, square-cut Deco parapet and steel-frame windows.
Newark Street
In the shadow of the former St Philip's church the character of the c19 has been kept.
Blizard Building. Queen Mary College Institute of Cell and Molecular Science. Glass walled laboratory building. Bruce Maclean art
Site of Brewers’ almshouses. Garden administered by the Brewers’ Company and the London Hospital
St. Augustine with St.Philip. Royal London Hospital Museum. Back of London Hospital St. Philip Stepney built by rich vicar, Vatcher, on site of the 1818 church. Biggest church in the east end.
Churchyard of St. Philip open space maintained by the vicar
St. Philip's National Schools form the centrepiece of this range a sandy-painted Tudor-Gothic design by Alfred. R. Mason, the hospital's surveyor, 1842. Central stepped gable over a high Gothic arch window framed between two high octagonal turrets. End pavilions for schoolmaster and mistress with straight-edge gables.
Vicarage for St Philip's, 1864 by A. W Blomfield. Ecclesiastical dourness with tile-hung insets to the pointed arch windows. Once the home of J.R. Green, historian and incumbent of St Philip's (1865-8).
Parfett Street
created in the 1890s when the hospital cleared a dense group of courts and alleys and replaced them with sturdy, three-storey model dwellings - the first of their kind on the estate - by their surveyors, Newman Conquest. Small windows with colonette mullions and entrances under segmental and pointed pediments. A larger scheme for rebuilding along Settles Street and Myrdle Street with identical blocks was unrealized. The street's end still has three-storey terraces of the 1790s on both sides, several with their original fanlights and doorcases. Renovated when the model dwellings were erected and reflecting the estate's preference for individual houses, seen also in Myrdle Street
Philpot Street
pedestrianised in the late c20 in an attempt to draw together the hospital's various residential buildings.
Philpot Terrace houses erected c. 1839 as. They were the largest houses on the early c19 estate and deliberately built for private lettings.
Floyer House The interlacing tracery of the windows of the terraces is echoed in the arched fanlights of the doors and windows. former Medical College Students' Hostel, by E. Maufe, 1934. Nice brick building with arched ground-floor loggia and projecting window frames,
School of Nursing & Midwifery City University, 1965-7 by T.E Bennet & Son
Immediately in front of the entrance, a circular concrete 'pill-box' lecture theatre.
John Harrison House, staff residences of 1963 by Bennet. Y-plan tower with canted balconies to the centre of each block and roof terrace.
Joscoyne House, 1934
Porchester House, designed in 1936, built in 1951, by Lee & Dickins.
Dorien Estate several blocks by the LCC's. Brick and concrete flats of 1957-9-
Plumbers Place
Model Artisans Dwellings
Bacchus Walk
Mary Westby Almshouses 1749
Whitechapel Bell Foundry, recorded in Whitechapel from the c15. Facing Plumber Row a workshop range with sturdy jib crane above a broad gated carriageway, leading into the yard. This has early c19 workshops built around it with further workshops added in 1981. The oldest business in London. The Georgian front the building remains almost unchanged. One of the most famous bell foundries in the world, and probably the longest established, was founded by Robert Mot in Essex Street in 1570. It moved to its present site in the Whitechapel Road in 1738 in what was the Artichoke coaching inn. Save for an added Georgian fronts the building remains almost unchanged. The original harness room and stables existed until 1969, and there was also a lead water tank dated 1650. The bell foundry traded under the name of Mears and Stain bank from 1865 to 1968, when its name was changed to the Whitechapel Bell Foundry Ltd. Through the centuries bells for famous churches all over Britain have been cast here. Between 1570 and 1650 this was the only important London foundry and after the Great Fire of London, as churches were rebuilt all over the City, Whitechapel supplied the bells for many fine Wren churches. The original American Liberty Bell was cast here in 1752. It cracked soon after it was hung but was recast in Philadelphia, using the same cast and lettering. Big Ben was cast here in 1858 after the original bell made at Stockton-on-Tees had cracked during testing at Palace Yard.
Prescot Street
Church of the English Martyrs . RC. reminder of the needs of the Irish workforce, which served the docks. 1875-6 by Pugin - begun by Edward Pugin 1875, completed by his brothers - for the mission of oblates of St Mary Immaculate who came to Tower Hill in 1865.
Juno Court site of t presbytery for 1980s offices.
houses, now demolished, the London Infirmary, later the London Hospital, was established in 1740. On the site, crude offices with a tall arcaded front self-consciously echoing Victorian warehousing.
Whitechapel County & Police Court, 1858-9 by Charles Reeves- Lewis G. Butcher, displays Ruskinian influences at an early date. Confident, three-storey Venetian palazzo with heavy eaves cornice and tall chimneys with decorative caps, richly polychromed in red, black, white and blue brickwork. Six bays with ground floor of large round-arched windows and asymmetrical entrance. Smaller groups of paired windows within arches and an upper range of square-headed lights are divided by slender iron columns. The court-room block is visible at the rear.
Cooperative Bank.
Princess of Prussia, a c 1880s public house. Neat and narrow with a projecting bay, coloured glazed dressings and tablet gable with broken scrolled pediment.
Kingsland House overpowering gargantuan postmodern offices in the Stirling vein with pink and beige striped cladding and a curved corner tower.
17-23 38-53 CWS 1887. The CWS group is the corner block originally offices, flats since 1999 by Ekins, extended to his design in the 1950s Amsterdam School-style bronzes by the Society's own craftsmen, with lozenge insets of emblem. Over the entrance, a carved relief symbolizing 'Co-operation' by J.C. Blair, brother of one of the Society's directors. A second, lesser, block for the Cooperative Bank was added in 1936-8 in matching style.
Princes Square?
Swedish Church
Romford Street
Fieldgate Mansions designed by the hospital surveyors, Rowland Plumbe & Harvey at the request of the builders, Davis Brothers, 1905-6. Plumbe originally planned individual three-storey houses but the LCC purchased the land to the south forcing a revision to higher-density flats.
Rupert Street Goodman’s Fields
Charles Dames sugar refinery
Settles Street
Tenements. The earliest terraces were swept away in the 1890s and replaced by high-fronted tenements,
Davis's Terrace, 1891 by of Bishopsgate. Austere, bare yellow brick.
39-55 Also by Israel & Hyman Davis but slightly later
10-28, in a more humane red brick with mouldings and pointed dormers, but with the same narrow proportions.
Kobi Nazrul School. Behind a high wall, penetrated by louvred portholes. A solid 1990s design in brick with strong massing of one- and two-storey buildings under deep-pitch roofs and echoes in the detailing of Victorian schools.
Job Centre, built as the Stepney Employment Exchange, 1934-6 by the Office of Works, a particularly well-composed Neo-Georgian design. Symmetrical block in good brick with pantiled pitch roof and a pair of monolithic chimneystacks. Squat brick porches to the outer Bays; set forward at both ends are gabled bays with Venetian windows. Curved rear block. 1
Stepney Way
Good Samaritan. Rebuilt in 1937 as part of London Hospital estate. One of A.E. Sewell’s excellent pubs for Truman. Neo-Georgian with flashes of Art Deco detail.
Turner Street
Factory and showroom by H. Victor Kerr. At the corner with Nelson Street, 1932 for gown manufacturer M. Levy. White rendered, with tall square-cut stair towers on either side, sharp angled corner and slightly projecting bands of windows with curved ends.
29 plaque to Charles Bradlaugh, which says 'advocate of free thought, lived here 1870-1877' . Bradlaugh lived here, in an East End slum long before it became fashionable He was an associate of Annie Besant, was fighting for women's suffrage and urging birth control; an ardent advocate of trade unionism and social reform and hated by the church.Plaque erected 1961.
47 Neo-Georgian by H. Victor Kerr was built for the Ophthalmic Centre for the Hospital Savings Association, 1933;
School of Medicine and Dentistry,
Gwynne House by H. Victor Kerr of 1934,
Vallance Road
72 People's Dispensary for Sick Animalsbegan on 17 November 1917 when Maria Dickin, came to the East End hoping to engage in social work, but the sight of injured donkeys, cats and dogs roaming the streets appalled her, and she decided that helping animals was to be her mission. The work began in the cellar of a pub on the corner of Vallance Road and Fulbourne Street. 72 was the Grasshopper pub, which in 1911 was run by Mrs Elizabeth Lazenby and in 1919 by Henry Cohen. Within two months the PDSA had moved its premises to Harford Street, Mile End.
Lister House on the site of the The Whitechapel Union Workhouse. This was later an infirmary which became in 1924 St Peter's Hospital, a branch of the Royal London Hospital. During World War One the matron was Mary Mowatt, remembered for her bravery in reassuring her patients during the Zeppelin raids. It was destroyed during World War Two. Lister House has been built on the approximate site of the workhouse
178demolished. Was the home of the Kray family. The twins Ronnie and Reggie Kray, and their brother Charlie, lived here with their mother Violet. They embarked on a life of crime, which was to have a significant effect on the lives of many Eastenders.
71, Mary Hughes 1860-1941.Plaque saying 'friend of all in need, lived and worked here 1926-1941'. Mary Hughes inherited a great deal of money from her father, the author of "Tom Brown's Schooldays". She used it to great effect. In 1926 she bought this property and turned it into a haven for the poor. She organised socialist gatherings and brought in educators. She became a JP and, unlike the majority of JPs of her time, dispensed justice with mercy and pragmatism, rather than avenging punishment. In her later years she was an invalid, having being knocked down and kicked by the police, whilst marching in support of the unemployed. Plaque erected 1961.
Walden Street
Watney Street
Shadwell Station. 1st October 1840. Between Limehouse and Tower Gateway and also Bank on the Docklands Light Railway. Between Wapping and Whitechapel on the East London Line. Originally on the London and Blackwall Railway and opened as Shadwell. It was on the south of the viaduct on the corner of Sutton Street and Shadwell Place. In 1872 the East London Railway Extended from Wapping to Shoreditch 1872 with a connection to Bishopsgate Junction. A Footway to the London & Blackwall Railway station. In 1876 it opened on the East London Railway on 19th April and was called Shadwell. In 1884 run by the Met & District from St.Mary’s to New Cross. Line leased to District, Met, London & Brighton, London, Chatham and Dover, South Eastern and Great Eastern.. In 1890s information outside the station also given in Yiddish. In 1900 Name changed to Shadwell and St. George 1stJuly 1900. Entrance from Chapman Street. 1918 Name changed to Shadwell. The original entrance, rendered redundant when the present one was brought into use around 1983 remains on the north side of the viaduct. Traces of the original stations can still be seen but in 1955 most of the London and Blackwall station demolished. 1987 DLR on the west end of the London and Blackwall Station site.
Viaduct, traces of the original can still be seen
Watney Market Estate, 1968 . The land was sold to the L.C.C in 1951-3 and 1960, but built up only from 1966-76 by the G.L.C. Architect's Department. It occupies part of the site of the Mercers' Company's first development close to Commercial Road, on Little Callis Field, laid out in 1817 with a grid of streets. The early c19 neighbourhood with its street market in Watney Street suffered badly in the war, losing its main landmark, Christ Church, a large brick Neo-Norman building of 1840-1 by John Shaw jun., demolished after the bomb damage. The post-war plan for a pedestrian shopping and market street with low and informal buildings was rejected for a more complicated scheme, a classic exposition of the self-contained, layered precinct of the 1960s, with pedestrians and vehicles segregated.
Winterton House. The western tower was demolished, and this block was reclad, after being stripped to its steel skeleton
Pompous landscaped approach and lower doctors' surgery added to the E.
Five parallel blocks of flats completed by Stepney Borough council
Whitchurch Lane
Around the churchyard, still conveys something of the chaotic character of pre-war Whitechapel, with domestic terraces overtaken by the rag Trade, interspersed with modest industrial building of between the wars,
Altab Ali Park, the former churchyard of St Mary Matfelon. The original 'white chapel' began as a c13 chapel of ease to St Dunstan Stepney in 1270. It was rebuilt in the c14 by the Matfelon family, in the later c17, and again, in c13 style, by Ernest C. Lee in 1875-7 when It was rebuilt for the last time. It had become the parish church of Stepney Whitechapel in around 1646. The church was destroyed in the Blitz and on 14 July 1945 the spire was struck by lightning, which split it in two. The ruins were cleared and the churchyard was laid out as a garden. The outline of the church is traced by stones laid out on the grass. A few tombstones. A fine tapered sarcophagus to the Maddock family 1770s-1801, armorial panel on the end, a damaged urn on the pyramidal top. The sides are decorated with Vitruvian scroll and gadrooned band. Very few of the graves remain, but perhaps the most well-known person to be buried here was Richard Brandon, the supposed executioner of Charles I. Also interred here was Sir John Cass, the founder and benefactor of schools and Ralph Davenant, rector in 1669. There was a plaque in the garden here to Maria Dickin, founder of the People's Dispensary for Sick Animals in 1917 in Vallance Road, Whitechapel. The garden was renamed Althab Ali Park in memory of a young Bangladeshi man killed in a racially motivated attack in Adler Street in May 1978.
Vicarage built in 1900 and later converted into a post office.
The Martyrs' Monument (Shaheed Minar), a copy of that erected in Bangladesh to the memory of five students killed in 1052 Each is represented by a narrow free-standing steel screen with inclined head set on a semicircular platform and grouped in front of a large blood-red circular panel. To designs by Freeform Arts Trust with Arts Fabrzcations
Gate piers c19 Gothic have an iron overthrow by David Petersen, 1989, symbolically combining motifs of Bangladeshi and English Perpendicular architecture.
Drinking Fountain In the wall at the corner with Whitechapel Road 1860, moved here in 1879, quite elaborate, with Norman arch under a coped gable now sheltering a shapeless stone lump on a polished-granite plinth. Its inscription is mysterious: ‘Erected by one who is known yet unknown'.
St Laurence
29-33 with curved windows.
St Mary’s Clergy House, 1894 by Herbert Ellis, a deliberately picturesque exception, red brick with stone dressings, three cabled bays of mullioned windows and a corner turret.
17 The neatest of the older houses the standard early c19 type with first-floor windows within arches.
Flats a bomb damaged part of the park was filled c. 2000 by the large blocks of flats to render and engineering brick by Squire & Partners.
Whitechapel
'place with a stone chapel', alluding, to the building material by naming its characteristic colour. Stone would have been an unusual choice for small churches in earlier centuries, when there was a plentiful supply of wood. This chapel was also referred to by its dedication; ‘Mattefelon’ was probably the name of the founder or of a benefactor. ‘St Mary de Mattefelon’ 1282, ‘New Chapel without Aldgate’ 1295, ‘Whitechapele by Algate’ 1340, ‘Parish of the Blessed Mary Matfelon White Chapell’ 1452.
The London Hospital was one of several large private landowners in Stepney up to 1945 but now almost the only one to retain a substantial part of its estate. The hospital acquired the Red Lyon Farm in 1755 and 1772 but only began to develop it after 1790, in an undisciplined fashion. A second burst of activity got under way 1808-30 with the building leases more controlled by the estate's surveyor. By the end of the c19 the entire area was composed of houses interspersed with schools and numerous corner pubs. Some of the older parts characterized by cramped cottages, courts and alleys were cleared for street widening and the construction of 'improved' housing. Good management, like that of the Mercers' company’s estates in Stepney, ensured the survival of much of the c19 stock into the present. But the hospital's own expansion after 1895 and the progressive encroachment of clothing factories created a more mixed architectural character that still obtains today. The estate is divided into two parts by New Road laid out c. 1772. Whitechapel was part of the borough of Stepney largely inhabited by Jewish traders and craftsmen whose forerunners began to settle in-this neighbourhood after the Russian persecution of 1881.
Rivoli Cinema. Built by Coles In 1921, with over 2,000 seats, and thus large and very impressive for that time. It was blitzed in 1940; the site was acquired by Granada who commissioned Coles to plan a replacement. This was never built
Whitechapel High Street
Roque's map of 18th-century London, published in 1746, shows Whitechapel High Street a broad highway leading out of London, with a cluster of little alleyways and streets near the centre f London, which gradually get fewer and fewer until at Mile End there are only fields a: market gardens, with houses lining the road on either side. Joined to Commercial Road by Gardner’s Corner in 1870. “Welcome surprise to the stranger – spacious -accommodated with good inns the Whitechapel boulevard may be said to commence from Houndsditch and the Minories, but to the boundary at Middlesex Street it is known as Aldgate High Street when it assumes the name of Whitechapel High Street. Whitechapel High Street is the beginning of London 'East of Aldgate' and here the contrast between the prosperity of the City and its eastern neighbour is decidedly marked. Until the later C20 buildings on the High Street, and its continuation Whitechapel Road, remained predominantly three and four storeyed, with a plentiful supply of inns, mixture of narrow c18 and c19 frontages, and narrow alleys leading off, typical of an ancient street pattern. War damage and indifferent later redevelopment have left only scrappy remains and the gradual creep of the City further threatens the intimate scale. The junction of the High Street, Commercial Street and Commercial Road was busy even in the c19 and replaced by a daunting gyratory system in 1976.
Hay market. From 1708 there was a hay market along the street, with deliveries from the country three times a week. It was originally held at Ratcliff, and was probably moved to Whitechapel because it was the nearest spot, which was conveniently near the city without actually encroaching on it. The market was in existence until 1928, when an Act Parliament abolished it. At the start of the 20th the junction was the terminus for trams and trolley buses.
Morrison’s buildings north
CWS clothing factory
Gower’s walk corner, tobacco factory
77 Library. A mural in tiles depicting Whitechapel Hay Market in the 1780s can be seen at the entrance to the Library. It is believed that it came from the Red Lion public house across the road. Plaque to Isaac Rosenberg, which says ‘poet and painter lived in the East End and studied here'. He spent many hours reading here and said the books in the library inspired him to write his poetry. Plaque erected 1987. 1. The library was founded by John Passmore Edwards in 1892 and designed by Potts, Son and Hennings. Dr Jacob Bronowski, as a boy of 12 was taken to the library by another boy, and asked for a book that he could read easily, and so improve his English
90 Bloom's Kosher Restaurant. The building has since become a fast-food outlet. Bloom's opened in 1920 on the corner of Brick Lane. Salt beef, gefilte fish, chicken liver and fruit cordial, cold borscht and calf's foot jelly, and the rudeness of the staff, were some of its specialties.
hitechapel Institution and Art Gallery, 1899/91 One of Canon Barnett’s schemes to bring culture to the labouring classes. By Art Workers Guild member C. Harrison Townsend. It is likely that C.R. Ashbee, who founded the Guild of Handicraft and worked with Barnett, contributed to the design. J. Passmore Edwards bore much of the cost and published Townsend's first design in his Building News in 1896, a broad, vaguely Romanesque front with an arcaded upper storey, flanked by tapered towers with shallow domes. The composition, revised to fit the narrow frontage is similar to his Bishopsgate Institute. It has been refurbished by Colquhoun and Miller in the ubiquitous language of contemporary galleries -white walls, light wood floors and no skirting. There are galleries, a cafe, lecture theatre, audiovisual facilities, bookshop, offices, etc. plus a five-storey extension.
Woolworth’s on Commercial Road corner, bombed, on the site of Venables and Co., drapery emporium
Whites Row
Millers Court
Feldman’s Jewish Post Office. On the corner of Osborne Street.
Ripper murder Minnie Kelley;
29 Ye Olde Red Lion
St.George’s Brewery
17-19 Sedgwick Centre of 1986-8 by Fitzroy Robinson Partnership continues the overweening scale of the City. Eight storeys of offices,
underground shopping mall. Sedgewick Centre, found a series of quarry pits filled with bell-making waste.
Students' Union of London Metropolitan University. Goulston Street, corner. A building, which had already broken the mould in 1939- By Philip S.B. Nicolle, company architect to Price's Tailors Ltd, built as workshops and showrooms. A handsome block, seven storeys with setback attic.
130, Natwest Bank, has a restrained Neo-Georgian frontage, with pediment over all three bays, and a tripartite window above a black marble-faced ground floor. Surprisingly late for this treatment, rebuilt c 1959 after bomb damage to the original bank of 1864.
122-5 were demolished c. 1890 to widen the entrance to Old Castle Street in the wake of the last of the notorious murders of 1888, shortly after the Metropolitan Board of Works had cleared the overcrowded alleys.
Offices and hotel corner with Commercial Street, begun in 2004 by John Seifert Architects.
Summit Sports and Conference Centre Stranded in its centre on the side of the High Street is of 1985 by Frederick Gibberd, Coombes & Partners. One of the first awkward intrusions on the fringe of the City, for which its facilities were clearly intended. A whitepanelled exterior, tall, with silo-like corner towers; its faux-industrial appearance made even more ludicrous by the giant globe lanterns suspended on arms from the roof.
Lloyds Bank with brick piers and glazed vertical panels. Only three storeys, in deference to the older group which follows
Central House (London Metropolitan University),dominates the next stretch. 1963-4 by Lush & Lester, intended for flatted factories above warehouse and shops although the blocks were almost immediately taken over by the Sir John Cass School of Art. This was one of the few post-war efforts in the area to provide new working conditions in multi-purpose buildings.
Fairholt House, c. 1910 by J.Wallis Chapman and Shepherd for Atkinson's clothing store. Arched mezzanine and two upper storeys on w side rebuilt after war damage.
White Hart. Only one bay wide, but its c19 front anc window are grandly flanked by giant pilasters. The back with a sign saying 'established 1721' can be seen from a passage to Gunthorpe Street. The White Hart pub might be a reference to when Richard II's was there in 1381 in the Peasant’s Revolt meeting Wat Tyler, Jack Straw and John Ball. Seventy years later another revolt led by Jack Cade came to Mile End. At present the pub is known as Murphy's, is late Victorian and contains some decorated glass. In the 1890s a hairdressers in the basement was run by a Polish poisoner and there is a mention on the plaque at the back of the pub about him.
88 Albert's Incorporating the passage entry, was reconstructed for the short-lived Jewish Daily Post, the first Anglo-Jewish daily newspaper, in 1935 by H.P Sanders: Deco-style shop front with black marble fascia bearing an elaborate badge of Jewish symbols set within the Star of David, by Arthur Szyk, the Polish Jewish artist.
87 was the headquarters of the George Yard Mission established in 1856 by George Holland. The Mission erected several buildings as it expanded, including Sir George's Home for Girls of 1886, which survives behind in Gunthorpe Street.
85 is a crumbling former public house by Bird & Walters, 1900.
Whitechapel Road
From the Church and Brick Lane. Jewish settlement was round Aldgate, Whitechapel, and Brick Lane. “Working people employed in tailoring and dress. From the Baltic countries and street after street and district after district became occupied almost entirely by Jews and this occasioned bitter complaints from the old inhabitants. Unrestricted immigration has been curtailed and London has, in fact, half-closed her doors to foreigners. “ Roman road. Suicide buried at crossroads. The south side of Whitechapel High Street had several butchers' shops, where cattle were slaughtered and carcasses sold.
120 Royal Oak, c. 1870, has an elaborate five-bay front; window surrounds with curved corners and moulded detail; cast-iron balconies to the second floor, and a pedimented centre.
128-30 with two tall gables and the date stone 1901. 130 is where Henry Wainwright killed his girl friend.
234; former London & South Western Bank. 1889 by Edward Gabriel. Deep, three-bay arcaded windows, with mask keystones. Upper floors of mullioned windows in Bath stone. Off-centre pediment. Strapwork decoration beneath first and third floors.
259 the site of the shop where, in November 1884, the surgeon Sir Frederick Treves first discovered Joseph Merrick, who was on display as 'the Elephant Man. Treves examined him and wrote an account of his findings for the British Medical Journal. Merrick suffered from neurofibromatosis, which gave him an enormous misshapen head, and a body covered in a brown growth. In 1886 Merrick was admitted to the Royal London Hospital, where he lived in relative comfort for four years, until his death in 1890 at the age of 38.
279-81 flats. Were built as the Working Lads Institute by George Bairns, 1884-5, extended 1886-8 for lecture hall and swimming bath. Working Lads Institutes were first proposed in 1876, by J.E. Saunders of the Corporation of London, to provide distractions for boys over thirteen in between work and home. The institute at Whitechapel was to have been the first of several in London with reading room, library, classroom, bank and clothing club. A single Arts and Crafts stained glass window of the Tree of Life survived conversion in 1997. Probably by A.O. Hemming & Co. who provided windows for the Lecture Hall depicting Art, Religion, Industry and the Seasons. Radical meetings were held in the hall in the 1890s and speakers included Prince Kropotkin and Rudolf Rocker. In 1896 the institute was bought by Thomas Jackson, and reopened as the Whitechapel Primitive Methodist Mission, which included a Home for Friendless and Orphaned Lads
28-30, two bay, each with c20 shop fronts.
32, of the same build, is five bays wide and handsome: it must have served as a home for the foundry's master. Pedimented and pilastered doorcase and original railings. Two rooms at the front (now the foundry's offices) retain polite c18 fittings including arched recesses either side of the fireplace in the room to the r. of the entrance.
333-335 Albion Brewery. Albion Yard 1808 run by Black. 1899 first bottled beer. Mann, Crossman & Pauling in 1904. Watney, Mann, Kitto and Brotherhood 1867. Beam engine. Robert Morton 1872 horizontal engine. The remaining buildings of the Albion Brewery, closed 1979 and converted to flats in 1993-4 by Peter Brooks Associates. The first brewhouse was established in 1808 by the landlord of the Blind Beggar public house and acquired by James Mann in 1826. Rebuilt 1860-8, probably by E.N. Clifton, for Mann, Crossman & Paulin whose name still graces the arched iron overthrow above the gates. The former Head Brewer's House (NatWest), a four-storey block in plain yellow brick with windows in relieving arches. To its rear, a lower range originally for stores and fermenting rooms, with a rooftop water tank dated 1864. Balancing to the E, the former Brewery Offices and stores of 1863-4; now Health Centre. Four-storeys with six bays of recessed windows; c20 upper floor. Ground-floor hall with plaster ceiling, decorated with bands of entwined hops and barley. Within the courtyard a later two-storey porte cochere in Portland stone. Probably contemporary with the expansion of the brewery, c. 1902-5 by William Bradford &' Sons. At about this date, the 1860s fermenting house at the rear of the courtyard was remodelled and liberally embellished in show-off Baroque style, dominated by a high pedimented gable between huge carved volutes, a clock and a splendid carved relief of St George & the Dragon, its sculptor sadly unknown. Much carved detail of hops and barley. Occupies the site of a brewery dating from 1808, which was taken over in 1819 by James Mann, while Robert Crossman and Thomas Paulin joined the business in 1846. Rebuilt in 1855, the Albion brewery continued for 100 years until it was taken over by Watneys in 1959, closing in the 1990s. The brewery was the first place in Britain to produce bottled brown ale.
34 Whitechapel bell Foundry the foundry continues from Plumbers Row c18 in reddish-brown brick, of two bays, with a beautiful early c19 timber shop front that has ingenious sliding vertical shutters and Soaman incised detail. Inside, painted and grained fittings and access to the cellar of the former inn.
45, Black Lion House Prominent, large and unappealing offices of the 1980s, seven storeys high, faced in polished brown stone. Part set back. On the courtyard, four plain brick plinths carry some insignificantly small sculptures, Les Naiades by Ivor Abrahams, 1985.
75 was Black Lion Yard, a famous East End Jewellers' area. In the 1930s, of the 21 shops, 12 were jewellers. The yard took its name from the Black Lion tavern, which dated from the mid-17th century. The yard also housed a Welsh dairy, where customers lined up to buy milk fresh from the cow. Gwynth Francis-Jones wrote of her uncle, William Jones: 'Welsh people may be justly proud of the cow keepers of Black Lion Yard... William Jones was there during the Zeppelin raids of World War One. Joshua Evans had the harder task during World War Two. The dairy finally closed in 1949, and the jewellers followed 20 years later.
Blind Beggar. Site of General Booth’s first sermon in 1865. The brewery's engineer, Robert Spence, rebuilt the pub in 1894. Workmanlike Queen Anne with gables, stamped terracotta detail and two wide four-centred. Recalls the legend of the Blind Beggar of Bethnal Green, supposedly Simon de Montfort, but more likely a soldier wounded in the French wars, and his beautiful daughter Bessy. The Salvation Army ladies sold their War Cry in the pub in 1865, urging people to give up the demon drink. On 6 March 1966, Ronnie Kray shot George Cornell in the pub, in the presence of the barmaid. Although her evidence led to the conviction of Ronnie and Reggie Kray, she still refuses to reveal her identity, for fear of reprisals from members of the Kray's gang
Booth House, a Salvation Army hostel by Praser Brown McKenna, 2000-2, re-using the structure of the previous building by H.M. Lidbetter but replacing the facade with light steel framing panels of unbonded red brick. William Booth founded his first headquarters in Whitechapel Road in 1866.
Boris's Photographic Studio stood next to Buck & Hickman, machine tool manufacturers. A Jewish wedding was only complete when the happy couple were photographed here. Boris moved to the West End in the late 1940s, but the distinctive facade of his studio, with its art deco addition to the Victorian building, makes it easily recognisable.
Bull Inn Regular coaches ran from here to Chigwell
179-181 Davenant Centre . Sixty articulated burials associated the late-18th/mid-19th century Whitechapel Workhouse burial ground were recorded, mainly in the south-west corner of the external courtyard. Former Davenant Foundation School, a late c19 amalgamation of two older charitable schools in Whitechapel. The five-bay stucco frontage to the road is dated 1818, of two storeys above a basement with central three bays projecting and 'Whitechapel School' engraved in the frieze above. Remodelled 1896 by E Pouler Telfer when the large new hall and classroom block were erected at the rear of the site on the former workhouse burial ground. Splendid Neo-Jacobean in rich red brick with terracotta dressings. The hall is raised over a covered playground with piers faced in blue brick and served by a striking and unusual covered stair with a stepped, open, arcade.Inside, a barrel-vaulted timber roof on arch-braced trusses with tie-beams and king posts.
199 Black Bull. This is one of the last surviving true East End pubs. A vibrant place with banter from locals, actors from the local theatre, hospital workers from the London Hospital and shoppers from Brick Lane/Petticoat Lane. If you visit the gents loos you can see the underground
Drinking Fountain. In the midst of the market, 1911 by WS. Frith, bronze angel of peace on a tapering stone pillar with low-relief bronze plaques of Justice, Liberty, cherubs and a portrait head of King Edward VII, in whose honour the fountain was 'erected from subscriptions raised by Jewish inhabitants of East London'. The Edward VII memorial fountain I grateful and loyal memory of Edward VII... by the Jewish inhabitants of East London. The memorial is often overlooked hemmed in as it is by the many stalls of Whitechapel Market. On the sides are the figures of Liberty and Justice, with small children at their feet, one of whom is holding a motor car.
East London Mail Centre and Post Office very dull 1960s. Originally linked by underground railway to Paddington via Mount Pleasant and St Martin le Grand. H.H. Dalrymple-Hay, engineer. Terminus of the Post Office's largely unknown underground railway. Its automatic driverless trains carry up to 50,000 bags of mail a day over six miles of track to six sorting offices. Work began on the tunnel in 1913 and it was opened in 1927
East London Mosque. 1982-5 by John Gill Associates. The golden glass-fibre dome and cluster of minarets make a striking landmark. Asymmetrical street frontage in red brick, with a row of tall Islamic arches.. Spacious top-lit entrance hall; large prayer hall at an angle, approached up steps.
The London Muslim Centre, 2003-4 by Robert Klashka of Markland KJashka, with broad, glazed entrance inset below a curved canopy faced with patterned tiles. The main building, of six storeys, has a series of large halls, classrooms and offices; around the corner in Fieldgate Street,
Mosque Tower eight storeys of sheltered housing, and a four-storey terrace.
Eastside Books
Grave Maurice Pub is called after Count Maurice of Nassau Dutch soldier 16th. 1874, three storeys with Gothic overtones, dates from 1874. Graf (Count) Maurice was the Prince of Orange a great Dutch hero who drove the Spaniards from the Netherlands in the late 16th. In gratitude he was offered the crown of his country, but he refused. The Kray brothers were regulars in this pub
Whitechapel Ideas Store, The third and largest of the c21 successors to the borough's public libraries.
Jagonari Centre. a Women's Educational Resource Centre. 1987 by Matrix Feminist Design Co-Op. A considered four-storey design combining a mix of motifs drawn from Indian architecture, including fretted screens to the windows within recessed panels and an elaborate mosaic door surround, with more traditional gable and cupola.
London Hospital Tavern, grotesquely and unsympathetically repainted
London Muslim Centre of 2004
Lord Napier, pub with a good front
Lord Rodney's Head was a Victorian music hall from 1854 to 1885 and was known as the Prince's Hall of Varieties. Lord Rodney won a famous naval victory against the French in the West Indies in 1782. Charles Coborn, the music hall star, performed here for 12 shillings a night
Old Blue Anchor, an elaborately stuccoed frontage of c. 1860, three storeys with attic above cornice.
Pavilion Theatre until 1940 on Vallance Road corner. Devoted to Jewish drama. Was a floor cloth factory but converted to theatre in 1828. Burnt down and rebuilt. Bombed. Victorian gentlemen came to Whitechapel in search of entertainment and pleasure. At the end of the 19th century the self-styled murderer Jack the Ripper dominated the Palaces of variety, music saloons and penny gaffs, fun fairs and theatres all served to amuse workers during their few hours of leisure. For many years melodrama was popular, and at the Pavilion Theatre plays such as the world of the Bleeding Heart, and The Murder of the Mount played to packed audiences
Rivioli Cinema bombed. Site of Wonderland, boxing club. Burnt down. Wonderland offered drama, boxing, circus performances, pantomimes and human freaks
Royal London Hospital. Remnants of the plain, balanced composition of the Georgian hospital designed by Boulwn Mainwaring in 1752 are still just traceable the agglomeration of buildings extends along Whitechapel Road The hospital was founded in Featherstone Street in 1740 by professional doctors, in contrast to other London hospitals, before moving to Prescot Street for sailors and wounded watermen. a year later as the London Infirmary A new site was required as early as 1744 and open land leased from the City. The new hospital, for 200 patients, was largely complete by 1757 but building continued until 1771 The original design was plain, in stock brick, of three storeys and twenty-three bays with a simple pedimented five- bay centre. two-storey wings attached to the main block, each with a a double or back-to-back ward on each floor, were completed in the 1770s by Edward Hawkins and extended to their present length by A.R. Mason in the 1830s, partly to incorporate wards for the increasing number of Jewish patients. Changing attitudes to hospital design and sanitation encouraged the building of two pavilion wings in the 1860s and 1870s by Charles Barry Jun. with better ventilated 'Nightingale' wards.This made it the largest hospital in the country with 650 beds. Minor additions were made in the 1880s by Rowland Plumbe prior to his major extension and rebuilding from 1896-1906. from 1966 T.P. Bennett & Son developed radical plans for the creation of a 1,300-bed hospital which would have required destruction of most of the main site. As a result the pre-Plumbe buildings were listed but in spite of this the Alexandra Wing was destroyed in 1974 and replaced. Subsequent building has been in small units but in 2004 major redevelopment was planned by Skanska/Inmsfree with HOK International. Roof-top helicopter pad. The garden has a bronze sculpture of Queen Alexandra by James Wade, 1908. A relief panel on the plinth shows Edward VII, Frederick Treves, Sydney Holland and others at a demonstration of the Finsen light treatment for 'tuberculosis of the skin'. Providing the backdrop to this, Garden House, a two storey building- storey for the paediatrics dept ofc. 1996 by T.P. Bennett. The hospital interior has been extensively remodelled but cheered up since 1996 by artworks commissioned by VitalAns, including brightly coloured floors in Children's Services by Sarah Hammond, 1998, a glass ceiling in the Endoscopy Unit by Kate Maestri, 1999 and windows in the multi-faith chapel by Amanda Townsend. In 1999, a mosque was opened in the Alexandra Wing. The first of its kind, comprising two small prayer rooms decorated with hand-stencilled Islamic patterns by Areen Design. Archives. plaque to Edith Cavell, who trained and worked at the London. Eva Luckes was matron from 1880 to 1919, the year she died. She transformed the nursing service and raised both standards and morale. There was a rumoured 'dead body train' which 'conveyed corpses from the basement of the London Hospital to Whitechapel.'.
School opened in 1854 by Barnado.
St Mary’s Curve, Joint Met and District 22 chains in length from East London Railway closed 1906, 1913 and again in 1941
St.Mary Whitechapel station. 3rd March 1884. Built by the Metropolitan District Railway and the Metropolitan Railway. Opened for South Eastern trains from the East London Line on the 1st October to take trains on the curve going from Kent and Surrey to Liverpool Street. It was sited on the south side of Whitechapel Road roughly opposite Davenant Street. In 1923 the name was changed to ‘St.Mary’s Whitechapel Road ‘. In 1938 it was closed because it was near Whitechapel rail. The platforms are still on site with a brick wall built to protect wartime shelterers and there are emergency track access doors. In 1940 it was bombed and the building destroyed
Statue of Queen Alexandra in the main court. By George Edward Wade. She is in coronation robes with a crown and sceptre. Inscription about how she introduced the Finson Light for Lupus. Bronze plaque showing her in a ward. Statue erected in 1908.
Whitechapel Mission begun in 1896 by a Primitive Methodist minister, Thomas Jackson. The gabled premises of what had been until then a Working Lads' Institute stand on the north side of Whitechapel Road. He was a pioneer of boys' clubs and his work was the origin of the Probation Service. he also founded the Garment Workers Union as part of an anti-'sweating' campaign. The premises on Whitechapel Road were opened in 1971 by Princess Alexandra, and include a hostel run by the N.C.H. a bench has been preserved from the cottage in Sidney Street in which the first services were held. It is on the site of the Congregational Brunswick Chapel, which Jackson bought in 1906 as his Mission Hall. He died in 1932. Building byLee Reading Associates, c. 1971. Dark brick. Carefully planned with much packed into a small site. Ground-floor . shops with double-height top-lit church above, under a sloping boarded roof. Behind are assembly and meeting rooms, a residential hostel for thirty boys and, in the crypt, accommodation for the homeless.
Whitechapel Station. 1876. Between Stepney Green and Aldgate East on the District and Hammersmith and City Lines. Between Shoreditch and Shadwell on the East London Line. Built when the East London Railway was extended from Wapping to Shoreditch with a connection to Bishopsgate Junction. It was used by many railway companies – London Brighton and South Coast, London Chatham and Dover, South Eastern and Great Eastern. This was ‘Whitechapel’. In 1884 ‘Whitechapel Mile End Station’ was opened next door as an extension from Mark Lane as the Whitechapel Terminus Railway. The Whitechapel District Railway of 1884 built an independent terminus here and some trains ran there although they were supposed to be joining up with the East London Railway lines as ordered with the Metropolitan, Whitechapel and Bow Railway. So it was originally the terminus of the Metropolitan District Railway. In 1902 this was renamed ‘Whitechapel’ and the Whitechapel and Bow Railway was built from here to just short of Bromley by Bow and in 1936 extended to Barking and beyond. In 2006 the line to Shoreditch closed
An Act of 1897 allowed them to build a connecting line between District at Whitechapel and Bow terminus of London Tilbury and Southend Railway. Opened in 1902 and jointly owned Whitechapel. In 1880 trains ran from Croydon, Addiscombe Road, via the Whitechapel curve opened in 1884. In1902 the line was extended for two miles beneath the MileEnd Road to Bow Road and Campbell Road Junction, from which pointit runs alongside the Tilbury and South end Line, later British Railways(Eastern Region), to Barking and Upminster. By 1905 the entire under-ground railway system in London had been converted from steam toelectricity The East London Line to south London travels through the Thames Tunnel, the first tunnel built for transport under a major river. It was constructed by Marc Brunel
Whitechapel Waste market. Here, on Mile End Waste, William Booth began the work which led to the founding of the Salvation Army in 1865, and he has two memorials on Whitechapel Road. The busy street market opposite the London Hospital has as its backdrop a terrace with some much altered c18 houses. 2. Whitechapel Market was established here after the construction of this wide road. In the 1850s the traders were mostly Irish who had come over following the great famine of 1850, but by the turn of the century the traders were largely Jewish. Today most of the stallholders are Asian.
Winthorpe Street
Playground London County Council l887. Opened by Countess of Latham. £2,700 given anonymously.
Stepney
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Adelina Grove
Estate for people displaced by the London Wool Exchange building in 1929.
Albert Gardens
Formerly Albert Square. Ruined by GLC with new buildings another development responding to the creation of the new road.
Drinking Fountain. In the gardens, iron plinth surmounted by an Arcadian figure of reaper with sheaf and sickle. Dated 1903 by 'Fonderies d'art du Val D'Orne Paris'
Arbour Square
The side of the square was acquired in 1921 by the Borough of Stepney who proposed to build a grand town hall. Instead, the site was developed with flats:
Tower Hamlets College was Raine’s Foundation School, secondary school 1719 by Brewer Henry Raine. Buildings were in Raine Street. 1977 amalgamated with St.Jude’s. 18th with a motto stone and children’s statues. 1913 by Herbert 0. Ellis. Assembly hall on the first floor with classrooms and workshops above, and an attic shooting gallery.
Arbour House, by B.J. Belsher, the Borough Surveyor, 1937
C19 terraces remain
St Thomas (demolished 1955) by George Smith and William Barnes, 1838 replaced by flats
Barnardo Street.
In railway arches. Private bus co. garage. 1920s. Central Buses to Southend. Became Southend Coach Co.
Barnardo Gardens Estate
A three-storey block of 1957, the rest 1969-71. Three to six storeys, buff brick with exposed floors, with private gardens Dr Barnardo founded his first boy’s home in Stepney Causeway in 1870.
Beaumont Grove
Beaumont Square
Beaumont Street garden. Land which London County Council rented in 1890 from Captain Beaumont.
Brayford Square
A small pedestrian shopping area is an addition of 1978 replacing c19 buildings along Commercial Road.
Bromley Street
Built up 1829-43 by Daniel Goody, similar terraces to Belgrave Street.
Between this and Belgrave Street a large 1990s development keeping to c19 pattern
Butcher Row
Ventilation Shaft to Rotherhithe Tunnel. Cupola. Spiral stairs down. Same on the other side. Nasty experience. Concrete path from Glamis Road
Cable Street
Sun Tavern Fields gas works. Between Hardinge Street & Johnston Street site of 1817 Ratcliffe Co. Commercial Gas Company 1875. Cut in half by London & Blackwall so works moved. Southern bit a gasholder station until Commercial. A
Mineral spring found in 1745
Commercial Road
Built by the East India Company in 1800 in order to provide direct access to the newly constructed West India Docks across what had previously been known as Stepney Field. It followed the line of White Horse Lane. James Walker was the Engineer. Because of increasing heavy traffic a granite Stoneway was laid from 1829-30 to carry the heavy traffic. Had to pay a Toll to use it. The stretch from Church Lane to Gardiner’s Corner was not opened until 1870 and the work was done by the Metropolitan Board of Works. At the centre of Dockland it is very cosmopolitan and never lacks interest. .
Methodist Missiongrew out of the Wesleyan Seamen's Mission. Since 1907 the East End Mission has had purpose-built premises on the Commercial Road, Stepney. A few years ago the bronze bust of Peter Thompson was stolen from the entrance hall. The insurance money paid for a piece of sculpture in the sanctuary
Troxy Cinema. Near Stepney Station opened in 1933 and probably the largest in East London, seating 3,000 people. By George Coles and Arthur Roberts, `tripartite front in pale faience with strong horizontal patterning. Unusually lavish auditorium, designed for 3,000, in French Art Deco style. . Two large panels of cascading fountains flank the proscenium, panels at the rear are inset with dancing figures and between them smaller fountains in bowl light fittings. Well preserved despite conversions.
White Swan Pub faced White Horse Lane and its garden and yard were taken to make up the route of Commercial Road
Brewer's Tap, c19
Royal Duke, 1879 by W.E.Williams,
Royal Duchess homely post-war
495-517 Mercers' housing slightly grander,
Rochelle Court flats and shops 1938, described as 'the first of its kind for people in good circumstances residing in Stepney. A small group of flats over shops.
384-96 Steel's Lane Health Centre. Began in 1889 as the East End Mothers Home extending into neighbouring houses in 1908 and, later, to adjacent premises built as the Church Training College Lay Workers, by Young & Hall, 1898 (altered 1925).
368 Some good early c19 details on remaining houses. Stuccoed, was a bank, now surgery
Telephone Exchange. Dignified. Built 1934-5 by the Office of Works.
Exmouth Estate acquired gradually in the 1950s by the GLC. The c19 street pattern was replaced by an extensive estate with linked four and five-storey slabs of flats and maisonettes among lawns. It stretches to Clark Street
George Tavern. Built mid c19 and set prominently on the corner of Jubilee Street. Probably by James Harrison, 1862 with alterations by R.A. Lewcock, 1891
St Mary and St Michael R.C. 1856 B by Pugin's pupil W.W. Wardell, repaired by A. V Sterrett after war damage. One of the first major c19 R.C. churches in the East End, and the largest, successor to a c18 R.C. chapel in Virginia Street, Wapping. An ambitious stone-faced building, with high, rather bleak clerestoried nave of eleven bays. The intended tower was begun but never completed.
the chapel of Stepney Martyrs, painted altarpiece with two scenes in relief, with stained glass of martyrs above. Chapel windows also with post-war glass. The first of a group of Catholic foundations built to serve the Irish population of southern Stepney in the c19.
Deancross Street
Dean Swift pub called after him
Exmouth Street
Hannibal Road
Hardinge Street
Convent of Mercy by E. R.L. Curtis 1905-6; which provided teachers for the school in Johnson Street.
Coburg Dwellings, also by Curtis four-storey tenements
The Ship, an attractive stucco-trimmed pub
Havering Street
Two-storey terraces remain on both sides. A classic vision of the c19 East End.
Jamaica Street
Stifford Estate. Draped Seated Woman by Henry Moore. 1958. Realistic for Moore at that period.
Johnson Street
Master's Lodge. Bishop Challoner’s School's c19 predecessor. Converted for flats in 1985-6 by George Watt Partnership. The earlier, vaguely Gothic, part of 1854 comprised a church and schools. Partially rebuilt and extended in 1905 to three and five storeys with a roof play- ground. The schools were associated with the Virginia Street and the buildings may have been used as a chapel of ease while St Mary and St Michael, Commercial Road, was under construction.
The other buildings mostly associated with the social and educational provision of the Anglican church of St Mary, Cable Street
All Saints Court and St Mary's Clergy House, a symmetrical group with gabled wings and cut-away corner balconies. 1990s, built on the site of the c19 National Schools for St Mary’s and Christ Church. c. 1840 by George Smith, surveyor to the Mercers’ Company, whose badge is prominent?
St.Mary 1848-50, an early work by Frederick J. Francis. A mission church in a very poor area, founded by William Quekett, Vicar Of Christ Church, Watney Street, and paid for by Lord Haddo, son of the Earl of Aberdeen.
Church Hall three storeys, with quite arresting exterior of brick and glass; 1991 by Tom Hornsby
St Mary’s Mission Hall, later acquired by the Catholic Church as a Memorial to Cardinal Vaughan, and renamed 'Our Lady’s Hall’. The figure of the Virgin in a canopied niche may date from this time. 1906-7, by R.L. Curds for local builder developer A.M. Calnan
61-7 two-storeyed houses with Mercers’ badge. By Calnan
Jubilee Street
Juniper Street
Very little left apart from a few cobbles.
Lukin Street
Bishop Challoner School has a long history in this district.
Mile End Gardens.
Holy Trinity bought 1 1/4 acres from London County Council in 1887. Opened by Princess Henry of Battenburg 9/5.
Trinity almshouses, “quaintest group now left in London.” They are to a seventeenth-century plan behind an enclosing wall and spiked railings that screen them from the public view. They were built in 1695 for 28 decayed masters and commanders of ships or their widows, on land given by Captain Harvey Mudd of Ratcliff, who was an Elder Brother of the Trinity House. Badly damaged in the blitz. The attractive rows of dwellings, extended in the 19th century, were badly damaged by bombing, but have been taken over by the L.C.C. Trinity Almshouses. Land private by H.Redden. Trinity 1890 Corporation asked to demolish them and permission refused. Bombed 194l. In addition, rebuilt by London County Council and chapel has 18th panels form Brasenose House on it. Built for daughters of Masters of ships and statue of Captain Hayles, Captain Sands. Chapel bombed. Sir Thomas Spet Comptroller of the Tudor Navy.
Mile End Road
1754s Dr. John Condor dissenting academy
88home of Captain Cook after 1764. London County Council plaque. Cook, the great explorer and adventurer, lived in No.7 Assembly Row, behind No.88. It was placed on the only remaining wall of the original construction, demolished in 1959. This was where his wife Elizabeth lived until 1788 when she moved to Clapham. James Cook Explorer, navigator, cartographer and botanist who commanded three great voyages of exploration to the Pacific and the Southern Ocean. The house was demolished in a clearance scheme by the LCC after the Second World War.
29 Roland House purchased in 1914 for the Boy Scouts Association, is now a centre for scouting in the East End and an international hostel
253 rear of the Beth Holim, is a secluded little burial ground granted to the Jewish fraternity in London by Cromwell in 1657.
Montmorres Estate
1957-63 rebuilding of the badly bombed area around Avis Square.
Pitsea Estate
Redman’s Road
Mile End Distillery rectifying firm from 1769.
Shandy Street Square
Recreation ground maintained by London County Council
Captain Beaumont rented to London County Council used to be East London Cemetery. Closed on 29.9 each year.
Sidney Street
Wexford house on the site of 100. scene of siege of criminals on 3 January1911. Late on 16 December 1910 the tenant of 119 Houndsditch, Harris, a jeweller,heard tappings at the back. Police directed on houses backed on toHoundsditch. Police cordon drawn round the buildings, andSergeant Bentley knocked on the door, which was opened by Gardstein, whereupon Bentley and Sergeant Tucker were shot dead. Gardstein was found dead the following day with papers, which threw light onthe ringleader, Peter the Painter, and others. On 2 January 1911, they took refuge at 100 Sidney Street, at daybreak the two called upon to surrender. Inspector Leeson was killed. Detachment of Scots Guardswas then brought up, which began a process of sniping at the windowsand roof of the house. The house caught fire, and later charred remains,identified as those of Svaars and Joseph, were discovered amongst theruins. Three firemen were injured. Winston Churchill, as Home Secretary, superintended.
Stepney Causeway
Stepney Green
Stibenheath wild heath name. Richard II parlayed with John Ball & Wat Tyler. Henry VIII archway. Sales of pennyroyal. 1665 plague pit. Also Jack Cade’s men at Mile End. 1471 falconry. HenryVI in tower. Pleasant public gardens. Stepney buns with ale and cider. Mile End Green on old maps
2935 18th
37 ILEA careers centre Queen Anne
Stepney Way
Stepping Stones Farm, very nice. Started in 1979, this 4 acre farm has been described as "The Jewel of Stepney". The whole site is easily accessible yet has lots of little private corners. It has a full range of farm animals — pigs, goats, sheep and cattle, plus assorted small animals like rabbits and chickens, ducks and geese.
Stepney Causeway
Did Thames once come this far? 1870
8 Barnardo. HQ there until 1969. First home
Albert Square. Space was a large in
Sutton Street
St.Mary and St.Michael’s School.
Waterloo Place
William Whittle Johnson was a painter and glazier in Ratcliff in east London. His sons, William Whittle and Robert, continued the business adding plumbing to these trades. They established their first works off Commercial Road in Limehouse, in 1824 to make lead sheet and lead pipe. In the 1880s the works began rolling lead foil for lining tea chests. This was always a "blue lead" works and was closed in 1903 following the merger, in 1894, with Locke, Lancaster & Co. The site was then redeveloped
White Horse Road
Original road ran from the church and Derans Row plus a windmill. Then bent between Sutton Street and Lucas Street to avoid Handman’s Acre. Ended at Stepney Causeway,
Colet Arms. Named after Dean Colet founder of St Paul’s School who lived there
Fish and Ring. Legend of St. Mungo rescuing Queens honour by funding her ring taken by her lover in the mouth of salmon in the Clyde
West Ham (Plaistow)
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Abbey
Abbey Road
Railway bridge site is centre of Abbey
Electricity sub station is site of burial ground, burials removed when it was built. NE of this is scheduled ancient monument, waste ground with medieval buildings covered in fly tipping.
Pre-historic burial of a horse
The abbey buildiongs were east of what was adam and eve road (origuinanly a ight angled nortwards thrn of abbey lane) in the crook of thje bend. in the cStratford Langthorne Abbey, or the Abbey of St Mary's, Stratford Langthorne was a Cisterrian monsastry founded in 1135. It was one of the largest Cistercian abbeys in England with 1,500 acres of land, and 20 Essex manors. It was a daughter house of Savigny Abbey. The Abbey church included a presnbytery, amd cjhapels. And was surrounded by buildings for lay brothers and hospitality. There were workshops for brewing, shearing, weaving and a tannery with farm buildings. In 1267the Abbey was used by Henry III for visits by Papal legates and it was here thsat the Dictum of Kenilworth wqas agreed. At the dissolution it was the fifth largest Abbey in England and the land was janded to Peter Meautas . Nothing visible remains on the site, By 1840, the railway had been built through the site, and factories were built here and now the Jubilee Line depot. Recent archaeology had identified some elements of the Abbey,. 674 burials were reburied in Leicestershire. the Abbey gatehouse jhas neen identified of the Abbey - to the north east of the Abbey Church and defining the eastern edge of the precinct. This area, where former council stables were situated, is now protected from further development status and a major community garden designed by artists Karen Guthrie and Nina Pope has been created on the site by the "Friends of Abbey Gardens"
The crest of the Abbey can be seen over the doorway to the Old Court House, in Tramway Avenue (Stratford). The chevrons from this device were incorporated into the arms of the West Ham upon its incorporation. The Abbey is commemorated by two roads in the district, Abbey Lane and Abbey Road.
Bakers Row
South of it in 1983, British Rail engineers found bricks in the cutting. Also, found north east chancel wall and north transept of the abbey church. Great deal more detail in the article.
Canning Road
Adam and Eve pub was there when it was built. In the garden in 1759 was found a stone coffin. Pub is the site of conventual church. North Woolwich railway crossed this garden and more burials were found then.
West Ham chemical works James Childs. Vitriol 1866-1880. Then taken over by Bacon and co until 1917.
Riverine site. The Site was the site of the former Abbey Mills Chemical Works. The origin of these works can be traced back to the mid 1860s with the leasing of two acres of the site to Thomas Bell, a manufacturer of superphosphates, who required the area to produce sulphuric acid. Historical mapping for 1869 show three distinct works alongside the west boundary adjacent to the Channelsea River; a naptha works, oil and stearine works and a chemical works. Even at this early time the Site was isolated in its setting by railway lines to the south and east.
Steetley Bell Thomas and Co., Abbey Lane West Ham, 1876 B1 1870s Bell, Thos & Co. Parkes Sainsbury (Kelly 1870) 1872 1900 Oil of Vitriol, acid and mauve 1871 nitric 1888 Abbey Berk Site Canning Road Abbey Mills 1848 Whites dir Essex 48,63 1 Bell & Black 1851 Parkes WHrate 1851 Bell & Black 1839 B. Sainsbury 1839 1884 wax vestas, camphorated gas wire fuses Stratford High Street Bell & Black 1882 Parl Alk list 82 sulphate & chem.manure works Taken over by Berk 1872 l872 & 1805 on doors Bells till 1893 Hubert Llewyelln Smith History of East London 1939 Macmillan Alum manufacture Bell & Black John Bell London wholesaler roberts tBell: factory for superhosphates at Abbey Mills. Financial troubles and sold to Burkes. lead chambers put there. martin; parkes, Clow 453, 482, 229, 323 Bell,imp dir indswand, Clow 229, 194
Stirling Chemical Works. Dunn & Co, Hydrochloric acid 1885. Thomas Tyrer & Co. 1876. Taken over by Spencer Dunn and William Heathfield and later became Thos Tyrer. Chemical works. Squire and Messel developed contact process for sulphuric acid.
Thomas Tyrer and Co Stirling Chemical Works, Canning Road, Stratford, London, E15. (1922)1844? Thomas Tyrer was born. Tyrer trained at the Royal College of Chemistry under Hoffmann; after he left the College he became works chemist to May abd Bajer and ultimately a partner in that firm. He devoted most of his energy and attention to the Society of Chemical Industry, with Abel, G. E. Davis, Roscoe, and Blond, and was one of its founders.1890 He acquired the business of Dunn & o manufacturing chemists of Stratford, which he continued as Tyrer and Co. 1896-7 He was President of the Society of Chemical Industry. 1907 He was Chairman of the British Pharmaceutical Conference.Manufacturing chemists owe much to the zeal and energy of Thomas Tyrer 1918 Thomas Tyrer died.
West Ham Abbey Print Works Site a large single storey shed has been revealed by excavation. Marked as Dye House- on one mid-nineteenth century map. The large shed was erected in' 1891 by the Patent Victoria Stone Company Ltd later used for paper for the Daily Mirror. The stone could be used for building. Large concrete steeping tanks have been unearthed works taken over by 1840. The Abbey Print Works
Saul Harrison. Rag recycled cloths. Plant included a huge rag washing machine
Canning Town
Unexploded bombs 13 Western Road and 49 Barons Road
Artificial manure
Coates printing ink from 1883-1937
Stirling chemical works. f. 1856 by Dunn Squires and Co. Leased by Thomas Tyler in 1891 and associated with Albright and Wilson, taken over by them in 1940s
Church Passage
Almshouses
Church Street
11 King’s Head, recorded from 1765, rebuilt 1885
Angel. Muskets. Site of 12th century monastery. In grounds of Cistercians. Poster on the wall. Bollards for the Local Board. Ex timber framed building of the 16thor 17th century rebuilt in 1910
Star Picture Palace, 1910-1914, demolished
Gift Lane:
Almshouses
New Plaistow Road:
Plaistow Press went there in 1955 when Plaistow Road works demolished. Had been Whitell Press founded in 1901 by the Society of Divine Compassion
1939 linking West Ham village and Plaistow Road, part of development scheme
Plaistow Station. 31st March 1858. Between West Ham and Upton Park on the District and Hammersmith and City Lines. Built by the London, Tilbury and Southend railway on the line to Barking. In 1858 it became the London North East Railway to Bow and Barking. In 1902 it was first used by underground trains. In 1903-5 it was rebuilt. It has a tripartite composition of entrances set slightly back from the main façade. There was a pierced parapet, which has now gone. There are LTSR benches and brackets on the platform canopy. And the LTSR motif can still be seen around the station. It is listed .
Surrounding area known as Rob Roy Town. 1855
Leabon Street,
John Street & Plaistow Grove
Plaistow
‘Playstowe’ 1414, ‘Plastow’ 16th century, ‘Plaistow’ 1805, meaning 'place where people gather for play or sport', from Old English. The current local pronunciation is 'Plasstow', as already indicated by the 16th-century
Plaistow Marsh
Pickford and Keen, 1857 acid manufacture.
Charles Tothill & Co. 1856-8 acid manufacture
Plaistow Road
The scene is one of unrelieved housing estates 1950s and later, with almost nothing to divert
London Tilbury and Southend Railway works, 1875-1934
Baths, West Ham Borough, not swimming but washhouses, 1932, some for men and 13 for women, after dispensary
Housing the first building is housing, of the live/work type, by Stock. Primary colours, timber facings and projecting windows in aluminium. Interesting more for novelty than anything.
Portway
All Saints Church School very old
The Cedars. Essex Regiment. Elizabeth Fry’s home
Settle Road
Old substation replaced in the 1940s, original running sheds yellow brick with red facings down
Stratford Road
Mineral water manufacturer A. Wells 1878 - 1941
West Ham Lane
All SaintsChurch. Built mid-13th but with has many complications and there are bits from the 15th and 16th and 18th. there are Bits of Stratford Langhorne Abbey inside including some Stained glass. There are six old bells, which were given to the Abbey by the son of the Abbey Founder. Rebuilt in the Early English style in 1216-22 and in 1240 from the east wall to the tower. In 1400 the nave was lengthened and a tower 74’ high built and a perpendicular. Turret was added. There are Tudor dual aisles. The Registers date from 1652. The South and east walls were rebuilt in 18th. Organ rebuilt. The font dates from 1797. In 1844 the pews were new. Wall paintings of dooms were destroyed. The 10 commandments were changed in 1929. Stoves and electric light. In 1934 the pillars near the door were put in, they had been found in a field and were supposed to have come from the Abbey. There are 1000 seats. Glass added in the early 1900s. The covered walk is very old. There is a list of vicars in the vestry – they were appointed by the abbot until the dissolution and then by the Crown. . Sanctuary is by George Gilbert Scott. Lord Mayor and Commonwealth. Smyth, Lord Hay. Etc. Wardens' names instead of the usual two. The clock in the tower is the prototype for Big Ben.
Opposite church to the North note on the ground about the site of a house. Probably part of the Abbey.
Trojan Works. 1916 Left in 1958. Tool makers. Until 1880 site of Abbey Mills Distillery.
Strict Baptist church
Dispensary
West Ham
West Ham Station
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Bethell Avenue:
Franciscan Friary 1901 Missionaries of Mary. (R.C.), Founded 1897 by Franciscan missionaries of Mary and. partly used as an Old People's Home. Convent building 1902, with new wing of 1909; gutted by fire in 1941 and 1946-55. To be replaced by a smaller convent, 2004.
Chapel Of The Sacred Heart Of Jesus, 1929-3 W.C. Mangan.
Grange Road School for ‘mentally and physically defective’ children, 1903, Canning Town Women’s Settlement, ran the school for many years, 1936 ESN School, West Ham Borough
Earl of Beaconsfield
Grange Road
East London Cemetery. Private. Opened in 1872. Fine gate piers. Two dull Gothic chapels faced with crazy-paved ragstone but marred by modern additions. One converted to a crematorium. Between the gate and the chapels a granite cross with a tall, nigged base to commemorate Britain's allies in the Great War dating from as early as 1917. There are no single monuments of great merit but the post-1945 ones include a remarkable array of individualistic, often touching memorials that are so characteristic of east London cemeteries. Popular types include the overt symbolism of half-open doors, open arches and heart shapes, while footballs, a lorry, teddy bears, dogs and even a dart-board provide highly personal mementoes of the deceased. They are a far cry from the dreary lines of headstones usual in modern English burial grounds. Many bomb victims near entrance. Memorial to people died when viewing platform on ship launch of HMS Albion collapsed 1898 and also from the Princess Alice. Chinese and Japanese burials. Well maintained with trees, grassland scrub and birds Obelisk to children killed in Forest Gate school fire.
Hermit Road
Park bought for the town by Lord Bethell 1899, grocer,
Popkin’s fishmonger
St.Matthais Church
Kimberley Road
Church 1991 another replacement, this time a chapel attached to a U-shaped block of fiats for residents with special needs, under a descending sequence of pitched
Ladysmith Road,
Mafeking Road
Manor Road
West Ham station, 1901 on Bow/Barking line Between Canning Town and Stratford on the Jubilee Line. Between Bromley by Bow and Plaistow on the District and Hammersmith and City Lines. Between Limehouse and Barking on the Main Line Railway from Fenchurch Street.. A station was first opened at West Ham on 1st February 1901 by the London, Tilbury and Southend Railway. It was first used by underground trains on 2nd June 1902 and was renamed West Ham Manor Road on 11th February 1924. However, it was shortened back to West Ham on 1st January 1969.1 1st February Opened London Tilbury and Southend Railway 1902 Whitechapel & Bow Railway extension eastwards 1924 name changed to West Ham (Manor Road) 1901 Opened on the London Southend Railway, 1999 Rebuilt in its present form Heyningen & Howard, as the first of the new to the Stratford extension of the Jubilee Line. By con the High-Tech sleek machine aesthetic of Canning and Stratford, the materials used here - exposed pre-trusses, glass-block glazing and ruddy-red hark back to Underground designs of the Holden era, in the tall, brick clock tower.
West Marsh sewer,
Canning Town North signal box
Memorial ground owned by A.F.Hills of Thames Ironworks. West Ham Football Club started there,
Northern outfall sewer, laid out as a public footpath, Metropolitan Board of Works, 1868
Memorial Avenue
Grassroots Memorial Park.. nursery and community building in energy efficient building with a grass roof and internal courtyard.
Pretoria Road
Star Lane
The Hub. Multi-functional Community Resource by Eger Architects and Ove Arup & Partners, 2003-4.part cafe,
St.Mary’s
West Ham:
1911 dockers’ wives doing outworking shirt manufacture and underclothes
Upton
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Lancaster Road
St Antony's Schools 1903, a bulky. Board-school type elementary school
Neville Road
Baptist Church 1885. Single-storey hall
Romford Road
South of Forest Gate. Posher still,
Terraces,
Matthison? Manufacturers, built 1926, made of iron,
Baptist Church, 1881-2 by J W Chapman extended 1901.
Sunday school hall to the rear, 1899.
512a Bard Bros Ltd. 1943. Table jelly Manufacturers. Some of the buildings housed the stables of the North Metropolitan Tramuays Co from c. 1896-1908.
St Anthony’s Road:
St Anthony of Padua. More Franciscans, R.C. A church, school, and Franciscan monastery complex founded by Franciscans from Stratford. By Pugin 1884-91.
Monastery
St.Andrew’s church. 1887 no tower big early English.
St. George’s Road
St Angela's Ursuline School. R.C. Convent girls' school founded in 1862, in houses in Upton Lane, by the Ursuline order of nuns. New buildings erected in the gardens in 1871-2.
Upton Lane
St.Anthony’s Catholic club is the rebuilt Red House of eighteenth century but largely rebuilt
Upton House, Lister 1827, born there
Hen House, Annie Curwen child pianist;
Upton Hall 1731. Fifteenth century and 16th century in the kitchen beam
Spotted Dog, 16thcentury cottage, One of Henry VIII’s hunting lodges, haunted, 1663 merchants met there during the plague , 24 hour license given by Charles II, Old dog bar ex bakers
Mansion House, S.Gurney, banker and philanthropist. Slave abolition centre. 1800 his sister married J.Fry - Elizabeth prison reformer. Lived in Portway until 1829
Stratford School, 1958 by T.E. North, Borough Architect.
Upton Park Road
Upton
Plaistow
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Balaam Street
Its name is corruption of Balun, a family recorded in Plaistow from the cl2. Its once fashionable status is now long forgotten, although. One side is open to the featureless Plaistow Park. . The rest is a mixture of dilapidated Victorian shops mixed with 1950s housing, which is over a large area to the around the churches.
Dr.Dodd’s House
42-4. Of the Georgian terraces that once lined Balaam Street only these survive . Owned by the Franciscan Society of Compassion since the 1890s.
Broadway
Broadway House
Coach and Horses, here by 1742 but rebuilt in the c19. Three-bay brick front with lower wings flanking.
Chesterton Road
The road continues as an avenue of lesser houses of similar date.
Chesterton House. The late Georgian residence of the Quaker meteorologist Luke Howard, The house was demolished in 1960 A fragment survives of a scheme, laid out in its gardens for a crescent of paired stucco villas.
East Road
All Saints, church for the deaf and dumb
Herbert Street
Lawrence Road
1 Will Thorne
North Street
Used to be Cordwainers Lane. Leather industry.
Porch House
24-26
Temperance Hall
1920 Day Continuation Institution compulsory for some but other authorities did not do it & they had to make it voluntary. 1933 amalgamated with other Institution- Lister Institute
Congregational Church.
Congregational Schools
Church House
Curwen Press. Tonic Solfa Press. Invented by John Curwen. 1862 music printing specialist
7 Meeting House. 1936 council school. Pillars from Wanstead House in the portico. Bits of original building in it
Plaistow Library 1902-3 by S.B. Russell. Single storey, in brick with concave inset corners banded. A reduced, le version of Russell's design for the Passmore Edwards Museum in Romford Road The borough has no money, therefore Passmore Edwards paid - his 73rd library. Memorial stone laid by Asquith 1902. Opened by A.Carnegie, as a result Carnegie gave £5,000 for Custom House library
Independent Chapel
Northern Road
Everest and Co., confectionery, taken over by Brown and Polson
Pelly Road
Upton Manor estate in 1866
Hudson’s estate, Hudson’s Road and Ireland Estate, Denmark Street
Globe Picture Palace 1908-1915
Methodist Church
Plaistow High Street
Exclusively post-war and with little feeling of a centre except for a
Shops short, covered parade of shops
Richmond Court, a fifteen-storey block of flats
Bit of old wall part of monk’s garden before the dissolution. Plaistow means ‘play place’. Gardiner Street in 1527
Post office from 1897
Hyde House
59 Black Lion. Originally a 16th coaching inn.A physical reminder of old Plaistow and thus set in the last hamlet before reaching the City -‘un-pub like but put together with flair and there you are, it has gone back to the fountainhead of human pubbiness inside’. It was recorded in 1742 but rebuilt in 1875 and a new frontage later added and altered again in 1892.It is a two-bay house with a cranked gable and tiled four-bay section and a window, perhaps of 1875. The range beyond is early and connects the carriageway to the yard. The stable block remain has become West Ham Boys and Amateur Boxing Club. There is an unusual long, curved bar counter in the public bar and the old bottle collection in the other. the name refers to the badge of Queen Phillipa, queen of Edward III.
Greyhound
Postman’s Office, behind it an old barn pulled down for the sewer
Plaistow Park
Partly created from land vacated by the tram depot.
Playarc. A generic play centre designed by Hawkins Brown, 1991 as a self-contained unit,
Queen’s Road
John Slater and Son, silk weaver 1882. Became Baily Fox until 1943
Market
Richmond Street
Richmond House, Duke of Richmond, iron gate was sent to the US, Dick Turpin lived there when he was the servant of a farmer Jeyes sanitary compounds, 1879
Central Cinema/Plaza 1913-1940
Upholstery shop
Samson Street
Hospital, Built 1899-1902 as a fever Hospital, by Edwin T. Hall. Hot red brick with dressings and ornament by James Stiff & Sons. Pavilion plan of ward blocks, originally with open elements. The essential element of separation (which included no access between floors within the individual blocks) is now rendered scarcely visible by progressive enlargement and later additions. The Nurses' Home has a cut brick panel of the West Ham Borough arms.
Southern Road
Mineral water manufacturer Thomas Curno 1890-1961
St Mary’s Road
Palsy Lane
St Mary’s Church lot of philanthropic work and team of nurses in the 1880s
St.Mary’s School
Tudor cottages
Church House, was Pond House
The Greenway,
A pedestrian footpath from Bow to Beckton following the line of Bazalgette Northern Outfall Sewer. Greenway - look out for Danewort
Upper Road
St.Mary’s Hospital for women & children founded by the Vicar of Plaistow patron. Money Settlement. Started clinic and nursery in 1886. New building 1893. 1946 improved
Upton
Upton Lane/ Plashet Road
West Ham Electricity show room.
Willow Grove
Lodge of big house 1840 thatched roof replaced
Plaistow
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Balaam Street
Sewer crossing
Leisure Centre Glowering alongside monstrous swimming pool which superseded A. Saxon Snell’s Plaistow Baths.
Barking Road
Cumberland House
Ancient barn
Pulley Wall
Boleyn
317 Canning Town Cinema Hall/Kinema, 1915-1957 now a shop 6,
St. Andrews Vicarage and church
West Ham (Baptist) Central Mission, 1921-2 by William Hayne.
The theatre next door began as a Baptist Church
Glory House, an independent Pentecostal church in a large group of cream-painted buildings, converted in 1997. earlier Baptist church of 1876, predecessor to Central Mission, funded by Duncan, a Silvertown sugar refiner. It was originally set back from the road with steps up to two large porches which flaunt a large round-headed window. This building is now subdivided as church offices; the present entrance is at the end of the foyer leading to the church seating c. 1000, in a vast, plain converted warehouse.
Plaistow Police Station, 1912 by John Butler, the domestic concerns of earlier stations now overridden by increasing scale.
Abbey Arms very large. 1882 for Taylor Walker & Co., their name inscribed there. Bars with surviving ironwork.
310 Fairbairn Hall It was remodelled by de Soissons and G. Grey Wornum and there was a commemorative tablet by Eric Gill.. Thr was also a cafe with decorative work by Miriam Wornum and Ronald Grierson and a galleried gymnasium. An upper floor containing theatre, chapel and workshop was added in 1939 by Philip G. Freeman. The Pethick Lawrences were married there. This is now under the Trinity Gardens flats 461 Fairbairn Hall and Keir Hardie Hall. Women’s Settlement became Lawrence Hall
Chesterton Road
Plaistow Hall
Brunswick Cottage
GreenGate Street
The Greengate rebuilt in 1953-4. Its sign of a bucolic scene, quite divorced from the grimy reality
Essex Lodge. Now Essex Lodge Surgery. A c gabled cottage orne of 1836, Tudor style with hoodmolds and decorative bargeboards. attached to the rear of the three-storey front block, and entirely disguised, is a two-storey timber-frame structure of the c16 with jettied upper floor and queen-strut roof with arched wind braces: an almost unique survival in Newham. The 1830s part contains older fragments, including, a 1700 shell hood. Inside, a stone chimneypiece with elongated voussoirs and keystone perhaps cut down from an early door case and which bears the crest of the Willyams family, which suggest these fragments may have been salvaged from their residence Essex House, which stood nearby. A new wing added for a surgery by Freeman Ankerman Hickling, 1994, the rest over-vigorously restored.
Wall of Essex House, pulled down 1831 and Essex Lodge built.
Rose Cottage
Ebeneezer Chapel
West Ham Tramways offices. 1905-6 by John Morley, Borough Engineer, in his trademark Free Style of brick with stone banding and terracotta dressings. Tall and narrow, two big arched windows in the ground floor with shaped gables. The depot lay to the rear.
Memorial to its employees, a plinth with a small obelisk under a flat canopy on four columns.
Plaistow Red Triangle Club, raised up on steps. Erected in 1920-1 by Thomas Brammall Daniel as a youth Hostel for the YMCA and YWCA. Steel frame, clad in pale brick with glazed faience. Prominent centre flanked by tall windows. Vaguely Art Nouveau detail, but with lavish ornament. American in spirit, perhaps explained by Daniel having much of his early career there. The facade also serves as Plaistow’s War Memorial, with decorative emblems of the great powers
Howard Road
For Luke Howard
Old Plaistow,
Jutland Road
17 Duke of Edinburgh
Khartoum Road
alludes to Gordon's famous expedition in 1884, roads in Ilford and remind us of the culmination of that disastrous campaign.
Prince Regent Lane
Plaistow Fire Station, 1931 by Arthur Roe, Deputy Architect and T. V. Griffiths Borough Surveyor.
Newham Sixth Form College. Adapted from the buildings of the former Plaistow municipal secondary school of 1926-30.
Whitwell Road
St Philip and St James, 1954-5 by. Harold Gibbons. On an corner site, contemporary with rebuilt housing of the area.
Hall, also by Gibbons and contemporary with the church repeating the patterned tiling under the eaves. Single room with low vestibule at the front entered through an arch.
Small hall added 1960 by PJ. Tucker. Improved entrance and landscaped courtyard planned by Ronald Wylde Associates.
Canning Town
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Butchers Road
Later phases of development, undertaken in the mid-1950s, housing was introduced with flats and maisonettes in blocks grouped around green spaces. This phase the L.C.C mould of loose planning on the ground, preserving some c19 street patterns and introducing patterns to enliven the streetscape
Point blocks introduced, first by West Ham Council c. 1961-4 all of eleven storeys
Chadwin Road
St. Cedd like the continental friars’ church 1938-9 by H O'Neil. Damaged by fire in 1995, derelict 2003.
Cumberland Road
1a E13 MIX. Purpose built youth centre, performance space, chill room etc etc
Fife Road,
Keir Hardie Methodist Church, 1960. Contemporary with later phases of Kier Hardie Estate.
Fords Park Road
Today only example of point blocks UPBA from 1966 remains smaller Borough uncil designed towers have replaced them.
Lamson Paragon factory. 1893 manufactured a duplicate book for shopkeepers. Then developed a carbon paper site - carborundum. And then interleaved continuous stationary established in London, by amalgamation of the ParGON check Book Co, (established 1886 in the City of London) and Lamson Sire Servcie with how for the Lamson Cash-Ball System throughout Europe and Australia. 1893 built a factory in Canning Town, and overseas 1902 1924 Patent - Improvements in or relating to stamp and like distributing means 1929 Listed Exhibitor - British Industries Fair. Manufacturers of Check Books, Plic Books and Autoplic Books, Numbered Carbon Copy Books and Forms, Continuous Interfold and Fanfold Forms, single and Multiply Rolls, Autographic Registers, Loose-leaf Books, Printed Paper Bags.
Freemasons Road
In the 1940s redevelopment Attempts were made to retain the traditional shopping centres of the old district along Freemason's Road but these were never very successful.
Freemason’s Estate. point blocks by UPBA of 1966. the notorious eight 23-storey towers built for the London Borough of Newham, using the Larsen-Neilsen system
Ronan Point in which a gas explosion caused partial collapse marked the beginning of a two-decade campaign – which the towers were demolished but achieved only after 1986.
Admiral’s Reach development replaces the Freemason’s Estate
Newham Way
Canning Town Recreation Ground On the south side of the Beckton Road. Terence MacMillan Stadium.
Radland road
Hallsville primary school. This was agate street and the school is whre 600 or so people will killed in a bo,bing raid because the coavches went to the wrong placve. Sp,me of them may be burie under the school still.
Ravenscroft Way
Approach to high-density housing of the same in the small houses. These used an experimental timber and grid (known as 5M). Designed by A. Winter Cox in association with T.E. North in 1961-4
Summerstown
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Route of Surrey Iron Railway
From Summerstown Road follow Garratt Lane
Aboyne Road
Garratt Green School
Garratt Lane
Garratt
Garratt was the main village in the manor of Allfarthing. The old hamlet of Garratt. Well known in the 18th century for its mock elections to appoint a 'Mayor of Garratt' to protect its rights on the common, came later to be called Summerstown. Mayor of Garratt was chosen on the basis of physical deformity and witty speeches. Died out in the 19th. The name masy meran wea5tcvhtower
Surrey Iron Railway approach on the new line. 22' x 15 1/2' high, tunnel in the railway line just inside the entrance and parallel to the road - roughly on the crossing of Surrey Iron Railway but too small to be a Surrey Iron Railway bridge. Flats
538 Leather Bottle, outside farm in 1740 when the commons were being enclosed, elections with a Chairman called The Mayor of Garrett, became famous local event. Hustings here, lots of deformed candidates In the 18thC the inhabitants of the hamlet of Garratt clubbed together to employ a solicitor to prevent encroachment on their common lands. thus began tradition upon the meeting of each new parliament; when several well-known characters in low-life appeared as candidates, being furnished with fine clothes and gay equipages for the occasion, by the publicans, who made a good harvest of the day's frolic". The custom continued until the 1790s, with several later revivals.
Oil mills
646 Prince of Wales
St Andrew's, opposite Trewint Street, 1911. Clock over the street. Mountford 1891. Surrey Iron Railway sleeper block inside and some rail. Thomas & Dower, 1885 probbaly gone.
Anderson, House, site of Tooting dust destructor.
Garratt Green
Recorded as Garratgreene 1609, Garret Green 1816, preserving the name of a tenement called le Garret 1538, Ye Garret 1580, from Old French gorite ‘a watchtower'. There is a mill called Garret Mill by the River Wandle on the Ordnance Survey map of 1816
Uninspiring bit of grass. The Surrey Iron Railway cut off the corner to meet Garratt Lane. Crossed a field on the east side.
Dropping down from Wandsworth Common is the Boyne Hill terraces across London clay to alluvium filled valley of the Wandle.
Garrett Park
Millpond upstream to middle. Gunpowder mill
Summerstown
Surrey Iron Railway crosses it and ran down the west side of Garrett Green.
Triangle with Garrett Lane now built over
Match factory
Shawl printing factory
Water gas plant
St Mary's
Elms Works. Stamping works for metal. Then owned by Welsbach Mantle Co.
Wandle
straightened and concreted for flood prevention around 1960.
Trewint Street
Marks course of Surrey Iron Railway slip going to oil mill.
Trewint Street
Walk way from here to Plough Lane
Waynflete Street
Winchester Street ?
Tooting Bec
Beechcroft Road
Bushey Down, Joseph Rank, the Yorkshire miller, lived at Bushey Down, on the south side of Tooting Bee Road, opposite the common, now a mental hospital. He was instrumental in the founding of the Central Hall at Tooting Broadway, demolished 1966, to serve the working classes of the area. He is buried at Sutton cemetery, at the northern end of the Sutton bypass (A217).
Tooting Bec Hospitaltransferred from Metropolitan Asylums Board to London County Council. Built as Tooting Bec Asylum, before 1916. Forbidding brick blocks; good iron railings with Art Nouveau touches
48 Bookspread
Crockerton Road
Developed by Alfred Heaver as part of estate
Dalebury Road
Part of Heaver’s Trinity Road estate
Glenburnie Road
Springfield Hospital. Built as the Surrey County Lunatic Asylum in 1840 built by E.Lapidge and W.Moseley. It had 360 beds for each sex. General Hospital 11 years with 900 patients but 100 more women than men. In 1879 a new recreation hall was built . Following the Local Government Act 1888 it went to Middlesex County Council and an annexe for 250 ‘low grade mental defectives’ as built for 80 children and 80 adults. In the First World War it housed an army neurological unit and by 1939 it had 2,000 patients. It had 145 acres, with 83 acres of farmland and 14 acre garden. Steam engines supplied by Maudslay in 1840 and they worked until 1949 and are now in the science museum.
Computer Centre in the grounds by Andrews, Sherlock & Partners, 1979.
Garrett Lane
Streatham Cemetery.. portes clocheres, vestigial transepts, rest is very dismal, jumble, unexploded bomb. Stone lodges and two chapels by W. Newton Dunn, Gothic, opened 1893
Tooting Bec
There are two parts of Tooting: Upper Tooting or Tooting Bec; and Lower Tooting or Tooting Graveney. Bell Tota and his people lived there. In the Domesday Book Tooting appears as held by the Abbey of Bec in Normandy; hence the name Tooting Bec. It was part of the manor of Streatham, and so belonged to the Howlands in the c17, to the Dukes of Bedford in the c18. Tooting parish church is at Tooting Graveney, which derives its name from the Graveney family which held the manor from Chertsey Abbey in the c12 and c13. In the c17 it belonged to the Maynards. In 1871 Thorne described this area as 'a region of villas and nursery gardens . . . very pleasant and apart from the common, very commonplace'. It remained quite distinct from Upper Tooting until the later c19, when the open land in between was filled up by houses and hospitals and cemeteries. The main centre of Lower Tooting is now at Tooting Broadway Station, away from the old church, south of Tooting Bee Common is the area called Streatham Park, the site of Streatham Place, the house of the Thrales frequented by Dr Johnson.
Tooting Bec station. 13th September 1926. Between Balham and Tooting Broadway on the Northern Line. Built by the City and South London Railway in the house style of the line which was extended from Moorgate following rebuilding and extension to Camden Town and South Wimbledon. designed by S A. Heaps, who was probably responsible for much of the interior detail, and Charles Holden. A satellite building on the east side of the junction provides a subway access and has a large glazed roundel the panels of its glazed screen - other stations have only a centre roundel, for a long time it was the only example of the 1920s "UNDERGROUND" lettering. The station was originally called ‘Trinity Road’ and in 1950 it was renamed ‘Tooting Bec’.
Trinity Road
Developed 1871 by Alfred Heaver on Wandsworth Lodge Estate. Red brick ornate railings
172 Arundel Terrace, Plaque to Thomas Hardy who lived here in the early 1880s. It says 'poet and novelist lived here 1878-1881'. Hardy took this house on a three year lease; but didn't enjoy his stay but he wrote, in November 1878, "The Return of the Native". Hardy wasn't well in the winter of 1880, he was bedridden for many weeks and it wasn't until the following Spring that he was able to walk on Wandsworth Common. Plaque erected 1940.
Holy Trinity At an angle to the road. The original building 1854-5 by Salville tower 1860 by Ferrey, who also added the transept and widened the aisle in 1889. The aisle, widened in 1893, was divided off as a church hall in 1976.
Fire Station1907. One of the L.C.C. Fire Brigade Departments free, asymmetrical stone and brick compositions
Fine police station 1890
Upper Tooting Road
68-72 King's Head a proper drinking place bar divisions are important
Woodlands Doulton
Tooting Graveney
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