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Common Lane

St.Michael and All Angels Church, 1884, Possible Saxon font, pump, plate, monuments

Churchyard Pocock buried

Dartford Heath

Secret Molins factory here in 2nd World War. Produced anti aircraft guns 100, in a sandpit and well camouflaged 

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Rowhill Road

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Albion Mews

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Angel

Angel. District and station named from a former coaching inn on the Great North Road called the Angel dating from the 17th century. It marks the junction of five major roads: St John Street and Goswell Road from the south; City Road, climbing up in a long ascent from London Bridge on the east side; Pentonville Road falling westwards to Kings Cross and St Pancras, and ahead, Upper Street, on the line of the Great North Road.   Was  Hyde's Saxon estate.  Medieval shrine to Our Lady of the Oak at Iseldon, old pagan goddess.  Owned by the Priory of St.John, hospice.  Sheepcote.  Actually in Finsbury, burial place of Finsbury paupers.  The station is named on the Ordnance Survey map of 1904.  

Mail coaches. the Angel, a mile, and a quarter from the General Post Office, the mail coach route was joined by the older line, from St John Street via Smithfield and Hicks's Hall which came to the first turnpike at Islington.  Islington Gate marked the end of urban London

Angel Inn.  Pre-1810 old country inn, galleried and players. Not recorded before the Great Plague year of 1665.  Dispatched more coaches than any other inn, and everything went past there so you would get the coach you wanted,with its ample accommodation, great stables, and assembly of horses. In a room here Tom Paine wrote the first part of The Rights of Man. The old Angel was pulled down in 1819, rebuilt in 1870 and again in 1900. 1922 became a Lyons Corner House, now gone again.Angel Hotel niw with a cupola and terracotta by Eedle & Myers's  1899.  Gutted by the GLC in 1980-1 and now a Co-op bank and offices.  

Barford Street

Barnsbury Road

Going over the canal.  Also along the 100-foot terrace and the eastern edge of the spur.  Several other fine blocks erected

1 TA 1908 had been Barnsbury Park Collegiate School

14 White Conduit House.  Occupying part of the site of the White Conduit pleasure grounds.  There was a ‘shrubby maze’ here – was it a sacred site?  Near to the sacred Penton hill it is the avatar.  Nearby the sacred well of Sadler’s Wells.  Where the White Conduit Cricket Club was founded in 1752.  So called because it stood near a white stone conduit which supplied fresh water to Charter- house until 1654 but was removed in 1831.  There has been a small beer-house on this site since 1649 and it later became a "celebrated Cockney place of amusement.”  In 1754 it was advertised as "having for its fresh attractions a long walk, a circular fish-pond, a number of pleasant shady arbours enclosed with a fence seven feet high, hot loaves and butter, milk direct from the cow, coffee, tea and other liquors, a cricket field, unadulterated cream, and a handsome long room, with copious prospects and airy situation.”  However in the 1840s it became a den of vice and debauchery and it was demolished in 1849 to be replaced by the present building.  In the 1870s the aeronaut Charles Green made balloon ascents from the extensive grounds surrounding the tea gardens.  A groundsman here was Thomas Lord who later built the cricket ground in Marylebone which bears his name

Baron Street?

Batchelor Street

Called Elizabeth Street and Chapman Street then WC Street and Liverpool Road, Named after developer of the Glebe land, Richard Chapman but in 1830 he went bankrupt

26 home of Thomas Shepherd, artist and engraver

Berkeley Crescent?

Parallel to City Road.  1848

St. Matthew's.  Bombed and destroyed

Berner's Road

Berner's Hall

Boreas Walk

Britannia Row

Watchmakers cottages

Denham Lodge

Burgh Street

Camden Passage

1876.  Called after 1st Earl of Camden, eighteenth century Lord Chancellor.  Continues the line of the High Street with small houses, now over shops.  Cruden, author of the Concordances, died here insane.  Plague. Antique Market and restaurants and pubs and theatres which include London's version of Off-Broadway. 

47-53 is a newcomer of the 19^th facing Islington Green.  Ground-floor shop windows in curved concrete surrounds.

Antiques market

The Mall, Market a former Electric Tramway transformer station, ex-London County Council horse tram depot.  1905. Inspired by Dance’s Newgate Gaol.  By Vincent Harris for the LCC, 1905-6.  Brick walls with rusticated Baroque entrance aedicules.  Subdivided into ashopping arcade in 1979.  Vincent Harris started his career as an LCC architect working on several electricity generating stations. He went on to become a noted municipal public buildings architect  The sub-stations were built by the LCC as transformer stations necessary for the electrification of the tramway system begun in 1902.

Frederick's

Camden Walk

Developed by Thomas Rosoman.  Opens out built in 1760.  Bricked in for the council flats were built. Ceased tobe a thoroughfare

50-58 at Chesterton Place of 1790 terrace

Colinsdale

Camden Head. A pub of 1899 with much engraved glass inside, refurbished appropriately by Rodert Gradidge

Canal

Chantry Street

Chapel Market

This was Chapel Street with town houses in the 18^thand then the fire engine house was built in 1792.. market was there by 1860s.  renamed Chapel Market in 1936.

Busy shopping centre and street market at the back of the blitzed area, has escaped almost unharmedWhile Camden Passage is for the collectors and dealers, nearby Chapel Street Market is for the local people. traditional London street market selling fresh fruit and vegetables in season, sweets and toys for the children, wet fish and clothes for warmth or fashion. Cafes and pubs offer a wide selection of foods and ' drinks at reasonable prices.   

45 Lamb

48 first Sainsbury’s in Islington opened 1882.   soon had three more shops in the street.

74 Manze's

92-93 Indian Veg

97b  two modern houses with internal courtyards.  Introspective haven. Edgeley Design 2006.

Chapel Place?

Charles Lamb lived

Chapel Street

Overwhelmed by the street market.  Horses from the barges were led along there.  Site of the White Conduit. Lesser houses,

5 Edison Bell International

48 Sainsbury

Salmon and Compass

The other "a large deep pond"

Charlton Crescent

Charlton Place

Chariton Crescent, 1791-2.  Developed by James Taylor, the R.C. architect who designed houses in Duncan Terrace and probably City Road.  

New geology, 1831, plaque

St.John's Church.  Pugin original in 1873.  1820 Charles Lamb plaque

32 Caroline Chisolm the'emigrant's friend' Caroline Chisholm, so called because of the voluntary help she gave to emigrants to Australia.  Caroline Chisholm lived in Australia for many years, giving practical help and leading parties of settlers into the unexplored interior.  who set up the   Family Colonisation Loan Society here.  Dickens knew her and she was the original of Mrs.Jellaby in Bleak House.

City Road

Tollgate, and there was another one at Islington.  These were abolished in July 1864.  Built in 1760, the common new road from Shoreditch to the Angel.  Western stream of the Walbrook ran down here and was open at the turnpike powering a lead mill until early 19th.

326 City and Guilds of London Institute.  Was formerly a detached mid-c19 villa of stock brick,Restored with a new link to the r. with archway and a further bay, another link to 'Cottage Place 1845', 

338-398 Dalby Terrace was built by and named after the developer, Dalby.  He lived in the end house, which passed the New River.  The triangle of the river land in between the two bridges was covered over in 1861.  He also invented beer engines

352  Early 19^th  terraced house, used as an office. 

396-398 Listed Grade II, Conservation Area. Summary    Early 19^th  terraced houses with mid 19^thadditions. for many years as a leather goods factory and then refurbishment for office use.

Angel Gate.  1980s clichés a large precinct of brown brick offices, displaying the usual 1980s clichés of decorative red brick arches and hipped roofs.

Angel Station. 17^thNovember 1901. Between Kings Cross and Old Street on the Northern Line. Built by the first tube line, the City and South London Railway which ran from Stockwell northwards, via London Bridge. Angel Station was an extension, which continued to Euston.  It  was opened with a single island platform in a 30ft diameter tube, with electric lights all through and electric lifts from the start. Rebuilt in 2000s  Within the rebuilt corner of Islington High Street In the ticket hall, sculpture Angel, by Kevin Boys, 1996, figure of twisted metal bands.

Cigarette Factory for Craven A. tobacco firm been founded by Jose Carreras, an emigre from Spain taken over in the 1890s by William Johnston Yapp, who joined forces in 1903 with with an American, Bemhard Baron, who had settled in England. Baron soon took over the company and with increased sales following the introduction in 1921 of the first machine-made cork- tipped cigarette, 'Craven A'.

Clarence Works, Salmon and Gluckstein, tobacco merchants

Clock from J.Smith and Sons.  It replaced an obelisk put there by the City Road Turnpike Trust. The monumental clock has been a landmarksince 1906. Smiths, makers of clock components, in 1812 established their factoryin St John's Square where their premises remained until the 1990s when they were non-ferrousmetal stockists.

Graveyard

Gutta Percha Co. English Channel Telegraph Co cable with John Watkins Brett.  25 nautical miles.  With central copper conduction covered in l/2 in gutta percha.

Hospital Clock.

Macclesfield Arms

New River used to cross it in a trough

Orphan Working School

Roman Cement Manufacturers, 1822

St Mark

St.Mark's Hospital, was a small out patients originally in Aldersgate Street.  Became the Infirmary for the Relief of the Poor Afflicted with Fistula and Other Diseases of the Rectum.  New hospital 1854 with 40 beds and an operating theatre heated by a coal fire.  Became part of Bart's.  Early example of a specialist hospital.  1852-4 by John Wallen, heightened and extended 1895-6 by Rowland Plumbe.  

St.Matthew's church.  Opened in April 1848.  Situated in Berkeley Crescent, which runs parallel with the main roadway.  The church was destroyed in the air raids of 1940 and then completely demolished.

Stick & Weasel was called City Arms.  Weasel is a Victorian jobbing tailors smoothing iron.

Turkish Community Library.

Underground railway site

Claremont Close

Last Square built by New River Co. 1935/6, 8 blocks of flats.  Site had been a cattle layer.  Approached by an entry between 32 Claremont Square and 1 Mylne Street.

Claremont Square

The New River estate, on whose western limit Claremont Square was built, had belonged until the 16th century to the Priory of St John of Jerusalem and included all what later became Pentonville, as well as much land around the top of St John Street.  It was known as Commandry Mantells, ‘Commandery’ being the usual name of Order properties, and 'Mantells' supposedly a corruption of Mandeville, the name of the field.  Henry VIII confiscated the Order’s property in 1540 for the Crown, and it became part of three large estates belonging to the Penton family, the Lloyd Baker family and the New River Company.    During the Civil War this was the site of one of the fortifications thrown up to defend London on the north, and vestiges survived for at least a century.  The new square, while harmonious in design, was piecemeal in construction.  The square was regarded as part of Pentonville, though its style is that of the New River estate.  Claremont, extended from a neighbouring terrace in Pentonville Road, was a fashionable name, from the Surrey mansion where, Princess Charlotte lived. Walter Sickert was a lodger in the square. But by the 1900s Claremont Square had greatly decayed, but in 1970s, it was acquired by Islington Council as part of a conservation area.  The architects Andrews Sherlock carried out, rehabilitation programme.. Some houses were converted into flats.  The houses are of the usual New River estate pattern, 

Reservoir.  The Mantells were the subject of continual litigation, and in 1704 Henry Hankin, a lessee of the Lloyd family, illegally made over to the New River Company large tracts at the top of the hill, on part of which they built their 'New Reservoir' in 1709.  In 1744 the Company secured a conveyance by John Lloyd of more than 30 acres. By then the New River Head's water supply had extended to houses by the 'New Reservoir' or Upper Pond; and a small ice-house was made on its bank.  The water had to be still further raised, and an extra 30 feet was gained by means of a cast-iron pipe like a huge inverted U.  Garden walks, to which only the privileged were admitted, surrounded the water, enclosed by railings and later by a high brick wall.   The unsightly high wall round the reservoir was replaced in 1826 with an iron railing for the convenience of the new residents.  In 1852 the Metropolis Water Act decreed that no standing water remain uncovered in the London area; so the 'New Reservoir' at Claremont Square was drained, piped, and covered.  The mysterious hooped pipe became redundant, and the central area was above the surrounding street level and there was a steep flat-topped bank.  There were attempts to cloak the embankment with shrubs and flowers. The Company  allowed grazing by a few melancholy sheep before they go to the slaughterhouse. 

A field path skirted the New River property on the west, and on the brow of the hill opposite the reservoir was a railed bowling green. Nearby stood a teahouse, Busby's Folly, later renamed Penny's Folly, which in turn gave way to the Belvedere Tavern.  In the 1830s its gardens still retained gravelled alcoves and seats, and on the lawn, traces of the old bowling green.  A racquet court remained in use in the rear yard until the tavern was rebuilt in 1876. 

1-27 Claremont Square appears in the Rate Books by 1827, and was completed in 1828 with the south side.

4 a ground-floor shell attached to the Pentonville Road terrace. Plaque to Edward Irving 1792-1834, saying 'founder of the Catholic Apostolic church lived here'.  Plaque erected 1982.

11 originallyin Myddelton Terrace one of Cruickshanks’ homes. George Cruikshank (1792-1878), the noted cartoonist and illustrator, lived 1824-49 in three different houses in what is in effect the same street. Here in 1829 he drew the famous pictorial satire on jerry-building, "March of the Bricks and Mortar,” a fair picture of what he could see from his back windows. Identification of Cruikshank's addresses is extraordinarily complicated:

29 home of a contentious clergyman, the Rev. Dr Anthony Lefroy Courtenay, one-time curate of St James's Pentonville. Dr Courtenay was continually bringing lawsuits. He claimed all the parish emoluments on the incumbent's death in 1856, charged the sexton - whom he had tried to dismiss - with assault, and later caused scandal, by litigation over the building of his own church, Christ Church in Penton Street.

32 removed to widen access when Claremont Mews was transformed into Claremont Close

Myddelton Terrace on the west side (1821) was also part of a longer road, created from the old-field path to Clerkenwell. It was later renamed Amwell Street.

Myddleton terrace During the Napoleonic Wars the Clerkenwell Volunteers, one of London's many anti-Napoleonic citizen corps, had exercised on field days in Tub Field, a New River meadow west of Amwell Street, dressed in their scarlet coats and plumed helmet- caps. That meadow gave way to Myddelton Terrace

Winchester Place.  Aaron architect of St James's Church for the new suburb (1787), also designed a terrace named Winchester Place in Pentonville road, opposite the reservoir enjoying a view of the City from the upper windows.  After 1858 it became part of Pentonville Road, and was entirely rebuilt long ago.  When the New River estate began to be developed in the 1820s, the Upper Pond became a natural site for a square, with part of Winchester Place ready-made as its north side.

Clothworkers' Estate

South and east of Essex Roadthe attractive remains of the Clothworkers’ and the ScottEstates, both built up from the earlier c19, interspersed with varied bits of urban renewal from the 1860s onwards.  1846 Samuel Angell, Surveyor to the Clothworkers’, began to developthis company's property east of St Peter's Street, together with the Ecclesiastical Commissioners

Cloudesley Place

Glebe Land.  Built in 1821 and called Elizabeth Terrace – marked by a date stone.  Islington has restored the houses and introduced a traffic scheme. Start of the Cloudesley Estate.

Cloudesley Place Yard, Dove Bros. builders there since 1840s.  Stabling for Dove Bros, who built 19 new churches in Islington.  Moved from this long-established base, and terminated the lease of their stonemason subsidiaries, Gilbert & Turnbull,

Cloudesley Mansions to screen Dove Bros. Builders’ Yard.  Chief variation is the ironwork.  Unadorned 1903-1907 architect Horace Porter.

Cloudesley Road

Used to be called Islington and Far Islington Terrace Built 1820s by Dorset Goepal. A terrace of tall Georgian houses with fancy fanlights and decorative ironwork balconies. There are a few pretty front gardens and window boxes here

9 King of Denmark

North One Cafe Bar.  New pub in bakery premises

116 Crown

Cloudesley Square,

Early in the century the Barnsbury area had almost no houses, and during less Cloudesley square was the earliest of the Barnsbury squares to be built.  John Emmett acquired the rest of the site in three separate leases dated 1824-6, by 1825 square under construction.  New River Estate style.  

Holy Trinity Church.  A Commissioners' church, to relieve St Mary's.  John Savage (1779-1852) - was the Commissioners' first choice of architect, and his plans were even approved, but the tenders did not match his estimates, and it was the young Charles Barry (1795-1860) whose plans were finally adopted.  Barry worked in the newly fashionable Perpendicular style, achieving a recognisable if cheap brick copy of King's College Chapel, Cambridge.  Holy Trinity remained adequate to serve the new district only until the 1850s, when Islington's spectacularly rising population outstripped its capacity.  A century later in the 1960s Holy Trinity was among those declared redundant.  After remaining empty for some time, occasional use for concerts (for which its acoustics were not successful)' in 1980 it was leased and refurbished by a Pentecostal sect with a largely African congregation, as the Celestial Church of Christ.  The railings have been restored the chancel had been remodelled; in 1903 the church was restored, at a cost of £3000, and the north and south galleries removed.  

Gothic parish school Infant Schools.  Grubb Behavioural Studies Institution

33a Fretco

Stonefield Mansions

Milton's Yard

10 lived H Edwards, b. 1779, compiler of the English/Welsh Dictionary in 1850, died in 1858.

33 in 1864 lived the writer and social reformer George Banks, 1821-81, and his wife Isabella, poet and novelist, 1821-97.

Cloudesley Street

Former parish school 1830.  Stucco Gothic, 1830 by G. Legg, enlarged 1840.

2-6 North One Cafe Bar

Colebrooke Row

Built in 1768 as piecemeal unplanned development.  There are discrepancies between the rate books and leases.  1717 brickfields, brewhouses, and brick kilns built by Miller, and then bought by James Colebrooke.  Colebrooke was a banker and Chair of the New River Co.  It is a good place to study the development of c18 terraces.  It starts opposite Islington Green and runs parallel to the High Street down to City Road.  The attraction was the viewthe New River, which ran in front until culverted in 1861.

1-12, of which only 1-5 remain. The rest, much of it damaged in the war or used as warehouses - including a Gothic-style Presbyterian church of 1834 adjoining no. 10 were re-developed by the Council in 1960.

1-3 River Terrace, 1813

11-12 demolished, 1838 now Widford House, GLC

13-19 Between Elia Street and Vincent Terrace became River TerraceNorth the 1837 built by Watkins 

20-23 Montague Terrace between the canal bank and Gerrard Road, 1841. These match the contemporary 34-45 Duncan Terrace opposite.

24-28 Montague Terrace between the canal bank and Gerrard Road, 1841. These match the contemporary 34-45 Duncan Terrace opposite.

32A HermitageHouse at the corner of Gerrard Road, a Council block, named after the house formerly on its site. It was the home of William Woodfall (1746-1803), Parliamentary reporter and friend of Garrick and Goldsmith.  Previously the Colebrooke Arms and a girls' school since demolished.  Became a police station, then Old Court House and then demolished

37-40 1772-4 demolished.  Colebrooke School for Mentally Defective Children

41 industrial by 1930s

41-53 an excellent sequence of the later c18 three-storey terrace houses some heightened.  Straight-headed windows with rubbed brick heads, andopen-pedimented Doric doorcases 1768

55 hostel for working women - there is a sign up about it.

56 next to The Castle. Where Colly Cibber died.  1720

56-57 built in 1720 are the least altered, cottages each of three bays, flush window frames,door canopies on carved brackets.

56-59 before 1730. May be survivals of brewhouse and Burton’s kilns

57 Castle Inn and Tea Gardens 1720.

58-49 John Rules Academy for young gentlemen. One of Islington's many Academies 

60-65 Birds Buildings Round a bend a plain group of 1767-74. An 18th-century terrace. The topographical artist Thomas Hosmer Shepherd lived at no. 2 from 1842—51

67 there was to be a railway station behind this on the Essex Road Branch Railway.  Occupied by Jacoby at the end of Birds Buildings

Ison and later Cyril Ray.

New Riveremerged at top; strip along the right hand side is the old course. Many passers-by tumbled in – famous print of that happening - especially when the protective fencing was removed while Duncan Terrace was building. In 1861 the river was piped and covered over, the pipes being dug out in 1950. The present gardens were made over the former riverbed.  Here the river ran as an open channel until 1861, and the Royal Humane Society formerly provided lifesaving equipment here and at other points along the route. Closed in 1861 and ran into a pipe and then closed altogether.  1952 gardens done up and Westmoreland rocks put in.

Original Colebrooke Row of 1768,ran Between 57 and Gerrard Road and named after the then land-owners.

Watson herb and nursery garden, 1771, first azalea 124

Wideford House is on the site of Islington Presbyterian Church, which was built Richard Dixon.  It became English Presbyterian, and then became Albemarle Hall, billiards and then a warehouse.  Plaque

Colinsdale

Discreet yellow brick Islington housing.  .  Leads off on the East Borough Architect's Department, 1965well-landscaped pathways stepping down to Colebrook Row

Coombs Street

Copenhagen Street

Barnard Park

Cross Street

Built by Edward Cross.  1760s south side fine terraces and raised pavement survivals of first burst of development growth.  Between Essex Road and Upper Street, contains a picturesque row of Georgian houses built on a raised pavement.  Links Upper Street and Essex Road.  Has a group of c18 houses

Baptist church, Elizabeth Maria or Sir T.Fowler Juror of 2 St.Walter Raleigh

40-42 site of Baptist Chapel

Ferrous foundry

Careleton House

Old Parr's Head

Devonshire House

Cruden Street

Culpeper Community Garden.  This inspired and extremely beautiful community garden is the jewel in Islington's crown. Begun in 1980 as a space to introduce local children to gardening, it has expanded to embrace all the local community, especially those without gardens of their own. Flat-dwellers can join a waiting list for an irregular-shaped plot the size of a large kitchen table in which to grow whatever they like - some choose flowers while others turn their patch into a mini allotment bursting with cabbages, runner beans and red and green lettuces. Some of the forty-six plots are gardened by Mencap, who also run workshops here; other areas, such as the lawn and wildlife ponds, are looked after communally. 

Dagmar Terrace

14 Marionette theatre, Little Angel A delight for children and adults alike, it is England's only permanent puppet theatre

Good Templar Lodge, Temperance

Dagmar Cottage

Danbury Street

Part of Frog Lane old road from London to Highbury

Steps to canal, Gardens

Devonia Road

St.Peter’s School.  Bold chimney 1837.  Stuccoed Tudor school and schoolhouse early work of Roumieu & Gough, 1837

Our Lady of Czestochowa and St.Casimir.  Previously was New Church College.  And the Swedborgian national seminary and school.  Glass about Polish struggle for sovereignty.  Begun in 1852 by Edward Welch.  Chapel 1865-79 by Finch Hill & Parane.  The side chapel was originally a wing schoolroom.  

Dewey Road

Albert Terrace

Dibden Street

Hayhurst

Dignum Street

Dowrey Street

Samuel Rhodes School

Duncan Street

Peter Ackroyd lives in this street.

Site of Irvingite Church, 1834, built by Stevenson and Ramage.  Burnt out and site became grounds of the primary school

River House, gone

St. John the Evangelist School

33 was County Court previously South Islington Proprietary School designed by Griffith

42 New Culture Revolution

St John the Evangelist.  1841-3 by J.J. Scales.  Spires copper-covered post-1945.  

Duncan Terrace

A street of handsome Georgian terraced houses separated from Colebrooke Row by a narrow strip of railed garden.  The more varied mixture is instructive forchanges of style from the later c18 to the mid c19.  Named for Admiral Duncan at Cape St.Vincent.  

New River emerged from a brick-built underground channel, known as the Dark Arch, which carried it underneath what is now Essex Road for a distance of about 400 yards from 1649 until 1851, when it was replaced by iron pipes. The garden marks the course of the New River. Gardens.  Managed originally by the Vestry of Islington.  Now landscaped. 

Rhodes Dairy 1800-1824.  The farm became brickfields in 1820s.  It used to overlook the New River, which was covered in 1861.  Hattersfield – the dairy area became Tile Kiln Field.  In 1827, it was sold to Cubitt for building. Eventually built over toform St Peter's district.

The Farm. "Starvation Farm"– site opposite the north end of Colebrooke Row. Once notorious as the property of a rich eccentric Portuguese named Baron d'Aguiler (c.1740—1802). Garage workshop. Now a mews development 'The Farm'

1-16 1799-1803 at the City Road end. Built by Gold

28 home for working women

36 bombed and rebuilt in facsimile

39 Priests House, Canon Oakley

40 Sisters of the Holy Cross and Home for Catholic Working Girls in London

50-58‘New Terrace’, also Colebrooke Terrace & Charlton Place/Charlton Crescent, 1791-2 built by James Taylor ends at Charlton Place (1790).

64 Colebrooke Cottage.  Two-storeyed house with a later stuccoed front, which may date from the 1760s. Home of Charles and Mary Lamb from 1823-6. Lamb, described it as a white cottage with six good rooms and a well-stocked garden behind, while "the New River - rather elderly by this time - runs - if a moderate walking-pace can be so termed - close to the foot of the house".   Charles Lamb lived here on retiring from East India Co. to his death in 1834 withhis sister here 1823- 1827.  1907 London County Council plaque to Lamb. 'Elia' 1775-1834. saying 'Essayist lived here'. Mary, with the help of kind neighbours, continued living on her own for thirteen years.. The house was later occupied by John Webb, 1830.  who built a soda water factory between the garden and Islington Green employing 60 people. Eventually the factory became a lock up garage. 

Camden Terrace

Clerkenwell County Court

School

St.John the Evangelist RC, 1843.  

Eckford Street

Elder Walk

Giffords Buildings

Jordain Place

Elia Mews

Elia Street

Was Alfred Street built 1838

Prince Albert

Nelson Terrace Part of Frog Lane old road from London to Highbury.

Elystan Walk

Essex Road

Self-explanatory name. called Lower Street in the 18th and 19th centuries - in contrast with Upper Street . The 'Real' Whittington Stone ended up here. 

Bell

2 Swinging Sporran was Carved Red Lion

4-6 Alfredo's. minor c18. Features in films 'Quadrophenia’, Mojo’

30-32 site of Clothworkers' almshouses

46 1912 cinema, Coronet

57 Castle.  New River under in a tunnel, where it emerged from Colebrooke Row

64 Jeffrey & Co. wallpaper, printed for Morris

Fox and Crown, Queen Victoria there

Library, 1916, Queen Ann style. 1916 by Mervyn Macartney, single-storey reading room behind linked by an oval lobby, which has a flying staircase to a first-floor library with columns and a shallow dome.  

New River in a tunnel between the Thatched House Tavern, and Bird's Buildings, in Colebrooke Row.  489 yards long.

Three Brewers

Ward's Place, demolished 1800.

Queens Head, rebuilt in 1829 but incorporating aceiling and fireplace of c. 1600 from an older inn on the site. Thefireplace has a stone lintel carved with robust scenes of Diana andActaeon, with terms on either side, and a wooden over mantel. Old Queen's Head demolished 1830.  Sir W.Raleigh said to have smoked his first pipe there.  Coaching Inn like the Peacock and the White Lion.  Old Red Hill was an old house let as a pub in 1825, owned by the Cecil family.  Old since it was below street level, new level excavated.  Part of mantelpieces in the Yorkshire Stingo.

Fowler Road

346 William MacGeorge, 1885,

164 Luba's Place

Frog Lane

Bridge over canal

Garden Row?

Palmerston Dwellings erected in 1866 by the Improved Industrial Dwellings Company, consisting of three blocks of buildings five stories in height.

Gaskin Street

Was Church Street

Chapel on the corner, replaced old one

Old chapel became a British School and a feather dyers

Gerrard Road

Named for the landowner Gerard Noel terrace built across the New River.

47-52, 41 Coade stone, T.M.Sheppard, 1842-51, topographical artist

Gibson Square

Oldest of the Islington Squares.  Laid out 1835-40, and named for Milner-Gibson, ground landlord and MP for Ipswich, President BOT in 1828.  Built in batches of six by 1830s, different styles used.  Lay out by Francis Edwards who also probably designed the houses. Gibson Square proper was completed in 1836-9, partly by Louis England, a timber merchant, but Roff and Gough finished the whole estate only in the 1840s.  Wxcavation for the Victoria Line shaft caused great disruption for more than a year; the new railway line cut diagonally below the houses from NE to SW, and has caused some settlement.  

3 Charles Street.  Home site of Islington historian Ediyn Tomlins, and in more modern times the distinguished photographer Angus McBean in 1945

35a, b, c, d, western exit, was called Charles Street and then numbered into the square.  A pond, which survived until 1832, was in a field here - 'ducking pond' which was presumably drained and levelled off.  It was incorporated into Gibson Square numbering, but as there were no numbers 35A, B, C and D.

35 end door distinctively rectangular in Roumieu and Gough style.  Home of Angus McBean who lived there for some years before moving to a studio in Colebrooke Row and moving to Suffolk.  He was one of the first in Barnsbury's revival as a popular residential suburb.

67 home of Samuel Maunder, 1785-1849, compiler of music,

When the corner house of Liverpool Road, burnt out in 1974, was finally rebuilt in 1988, two replica houses were added on its back yard space by James Gorst, as a further terminating pair to the terrace, with blocking course, stuccoing, balconettes, astragals and all.

Garden: Edwards's plan for Gibson Square shows a conventional layout for a central garden, surrounded like other London squares by railings with locked gates, open only to resident key-holders.  In the 1930s, when the square was run- down and impoverished, the residents handed over the gardens to Islington Council for upkeep, and during the war it was dug up for air-raid shelters.  Afterwards it was restored, replanted and well maintained, if again conventional in design.  The gardens, were occupied by the building works for the Victoria Line for several years, and restored by London Transport to their pre-vent shaft form, with the additional replacement of bona fide railings for the post-war chicken-wire netting; and repaving with York stone slabs. 

Victoria Line Shaft.  The simulated temple now in the gardens, with Pantheon overtones, is a ventilating shaft for the Victoria Line of London Underground.  It is also a milestone battle for the environment, marking an early conservation victory in 1963, when London Transport was about to build the new line, sites were marked for ventilation shafts in open spaces, including Gibson square.  It was owned by the Council, who were presented with a proposal for a 50-foot ventilating tower of grimly functional design in exposed aggregate concrete panels.  London Transport engineers, expecting uninterested landlords of run-down tenancies, were to their surprise confronted by a well-organised gang of angry and articulate new owner-occupiers, who formed a society, fought an apparently doomed campaign for several years, and took the fight to the office of the Minister of Transport in person with the support among others of Sir Basil Spence.  London Transport progressively modified the design and lowered the height, pronounced impossible in the first instance.  The eventual low-rise structure, erected in 1970, was designed by Raymond Erith with Quinlan Terry, then a partner, as a pedimented temple front with niches and dome-like mesh roof.  

Gissing Walk

Godson Street

Goswell Road

Was an ancient exit from London,

90, 1818, Samuel Parkes, general manufacturing chemist

Matthew Felton, yeast manufactory, 1796.  Yeast received in butts from the largest Porter breweries.  Separated by pumping into sailcloth or worsted bags and pressing.  Exported 200 to 300 tons annually by 1811

Cranfield schools

166 Goswell Mews, Thomas Hancock, rubber, 1821, discovered a process for masticating caoutchouc, using naphtha spirits it could then be used, process taken over by Charles Mackintosh, Hancock continued to make rubber goods, burnt down in 1934

193-5 Spencer Place

Gateposts.Remain from the school founded in 1613 by s t Dame Alice Owen. – Other remains in Owen Street.

Graham Street

Prince of Wales

16-24 Islington Boat Club

29 Walter Sickert Hall, by dark Renner' architects, completed by Holmes Bosley Associates, begun 1992 alls of residence for City University

36  Stanton Williams Architects offices.  Views over the canal.

38 Diespeker Wharf. Converted from a timber yard into offices and garden, Pollard Thomas Edwards 2003

38 a surviving early c19 wharf cottage.  Made into offices for themselves by Edward Cullinan Architects,1991.

52 Carter Paterson The firm are now using parts of their Granary and Fodder Mill for the storage of Wholesale Warehousemen's Goods such as cloth and drapery and cardboard cases and cartons belonging to Carreras Ltd.

363 Canal Cottages

Diespeker & Co. terazzo factory of 1908-9.  Tall chimney and three storey office block.  

Winston House, British Drug Houses HQ until 1967, now Glaxo

Grant Street

Grantbridge Street

Half Moon Crescent

Vittoria School an experimental design by the ILEA in conjunction with the DBS, with reference to the 1966 Plowden Report encouragement of a more domestic and informal approach.  Each its own dining area round courtyards all grouped round a multi-purpose hall.  Split level because of the sloping site.  Monopitch roofs.

Haverstock Street

Hermes Street

Like Hermit’s Hill in Westminster – near the sacred Penton Hill.  Used to be a doctor here with the Balsam of Life and the house became an observatory

Hayman Street

Isedon House: City of London old peoples scheme

Islington Green

Managed by Vestry of Islington.  Area around is more a Victorian development than a Georgian one.  Was railed 1781 and planted 1865. there were 15^th tenements round it demolished in 17^th– when it was used as a dunghill.  He Marquess of Northampton gave it to the Vestry in 1777 and then it was cleaned up.

Swallows

Fox – stood on the north west corner

10-12, Waterstone’s shop of 1994-5, with Neo- Victorian iron canopy,occupies the site in front of the famous Collins Music Hall Sam Collins Chapel in the Green, Music Hall.  One of the great popular attractions of the Victorian era.  This was opened in 1862 at the back of the Landsdowne Tavern.Its most popular performer was Marie Lloyd, who lived locally in Holloway. Another famous artiste who performed here was Charlie ChaplinThe music hall, later used as a timber store, was destroyed by firein 1958.  Proposals for developing the site as an arts centre wereunder discussion 1990s.

Collins Yard, called Jones Burial Ground, burials for New Islington Chapel, traditionally plaque pit

19-22Rosoman Buildings.  Remains of a terrace then

30-34 handsome warehouse.  Refurbished as an antique bazaar.  Tall, late c19 refurbished by O'Neilly Associates, 1979, with a big mansard and mirror-glass canopy.

75 Electric Cinema.  Few houses look c18 behind later commercial excrescences, this is one, converted in 1908-9 from a shop projecting in front; it still has its small dome and, originally torch-bearing, figure.

Slug and Lettuce was The Fox, Brewed own beer

Hustings, Babbage speaking on his election campaign, 1832

Place for dissenting preachers

Lansdowne Arms 1864

Hugh Myddleton statue Gladstone unveiled it, 1862.  A dull statue of Sir Hugh Myddleton creator of the New River for London's water supply; by the successful John Thomas, 1861-2. The monument, with a total height of 21 feet, includes Myddelton's figure in Sicilian marble on a pedestal of grey Devonshire granite, all on a base of Portland stone and provided with a public drinking fountain.   New River Co. gave £50

Bell

Iverna Court: Armenia Chapel built by Caloust Darkis for his parents, Gulbenkien

Islington High Street

Parish boundary down the middle of the road.  1780 route to Smithfield, Angel at Annunciation.  A wide thoroughfare which extends from the Angel to Islington Green.  widens into a spacious open wedgethe type found in old market towns, with a part of the space filledup by an island of buildings and the small alleys between them   the pavement is raised, and here the street is called Upper Street.  It has a scatter of Georgian housesvisible above later shops, interspersed with Victorian commercial frontages and later rebuilding, a mixture    which continues

Angel Square.  The crossroads, after a road-widening scheme of the late 1970s, isdominated by huge office blocks.  A greedy piece of Postmodernism by RockTownsend, 1987-91, bronze Obelisk to Thomas Paine 1809 who is said to have written parts of the Rights of Man at the Angel with relief portrait, 1991: by Kevin Jordan; 

Alfred Mews

White Lion.  Coaching inn.  Next to the Peacock. The name is a reference to the badge of Edward IV

2-78 Rufford's buildings

7 Angel Cinema.  1913. A stuccoed Campanile style tower.  Closed 1972soars above theshops all that remains of H. Courtney Constantine's AngelPicture Theatre of 1913.  The main entrancewas in White Lion Street.

North London Poly

Waterstone's Bookshop was Philharmonic Hall, became Grand Theatre, Lottie Collins, 1.  Became Empire Cinema

Royal Bank of Scotland

Peacock a more important inn for the long-distancetraveller.  All northbound coaches called there.  all the northern vehicles convergingon the Peacock, a kind of Watford Junction of coaching days, At the same time the Peacock was convenientto any traveller going north, for there was no need to seek the appropriateLondon posting house and decipher the elaborate time-tables.  One had only toproceed to the Peacock in the sure knowledge that one's coach must stop there.  The Peacock has vanished pulled down as long ago as 1829.

White Swan

02 Angel Bookshop

114 Maletesta

Regent’s Court.  1981. American in flavour but predating post modernism.  Corporate monotony.  

Three Hats, equestrian displays

80 a dignified late c18 group with doorway on Tuscan columns, effect like bath brick, not in stone.  Pullen's Place

84-98 Pullen's Row with open pedimented doorcase and some pretty fanlightsbetween,

York public house, an Italianate rebuilding of 18century,

Frye's Buildings

George Yard

Layton Road

Lonsdale Place

Barnsbury HA housing.  Pleasant pedestrian walk at the back.  A smaller group

Malvern Terrace?

Built 1836 along the boundary of a nursery, which remained on the south of the square.  In 1889 taken over by the vestry as Thornhill Gardens 124 Square curiosity of plan

Mantell Street

Medcalf Place

Milner Gibson estate

1822  East of the Back Road and parallel with the Cloudesley estate an irregularly shaped piece of land was held of the Tufnells, Lords of the Manor of Barnsbury, by the Milner-Gibson family.  Their fortune came from plantations in Trinidad.  Major Thomas Milner-Gibson died in 1807, leaving a son, also Thomas, born in Trinidad only a year earlier.  This Thomas was still an 'infant' in law, subject to guardians, when plans were put forward to develop the Islington estate.  Much of Barnsbury's manorial land was copyhold, partly freed by an Act of 1822, under which tenants were enabled to 'improve' their land by building, or granting building leases, on payment of a third of a year's value of any houses they erected.  In 1823 the guardians of young Thomas obtained licence to demise in order to build on their Islington fields.  The estate surveyor and architect who laid out the site and designed the houses was Francis Edwards, At the time of the Milner-Gibson work he was newly in his own practice.  The Barnsbury hilltop had once been dotted with pools, fed by local springs an used as 'ducking ponds', that is, for duck-hunting, although the laying out of house and street sewers in the current building boom was fast drying them up.  A few still remained, however.  Middle-class rediscovery and rehabilitation began in a small way in the 1950s and 1960s, Milner Place

1841 Roumieu and Gough.  Better since council put entrance in the 1930s because of the light.  Garden was a cabbage patch for years.  

7 Chapel of the Pallotine Sisters.  Picks up the square's verticality, with brick pilasters and stucco 'transom'.  From 1877-1905 home of George Rutter Fletcher, FSA, solicitor and antiquary, father of the artist Hanslip Fletcher (1874-1955), and grandfather of Geoffrey Fletcher.  G. R. Fletcher's wife, daughter of a surgeon, Thomas Hanslip, earlier lived in the same house.

Milner Square

'Used to be considered the ugliest of Barnsbury Squares.’  Its houses are built on a uniform plan, and formerly contained brick pilasters painted balconies, porches, and cornices in two colours, and round windows.  Edwards’s builders dropped in favour of Gough and Roumieu.  Dove, builder of the square, lived in several houses in it. It had become as dingy and barrack-like as the grimmest of c19 tenements by the time it was acquired by Islington Council in 1973 and convened and restored by J. Godfrey-Gilbert & Partners, 1973-7.  

British Siphon Company.  In 1936 Dove Brothers adapted the NE angle for a factory for the British Siphon Company, a change in keeping with Islington's change over at that time of many residential streets and houses to industry.

 Garden: A narrow oblong space contains a well-wooded garden.  Public and to be made a children's playground.

Pitcairn botanical garden separated the square from Upper Street

Waterloo Gardens site of Islington Proprietary School, which built on the northeast exit before the square was designed.  Used from 1830, later known as Islington High School it was closed in 1897 and converted to industrial use.  It ended as a greetings card factory, and was regrettably demolished in 1984.  Its replacement in 1987 by Waterloo Gardens Christopher Libb retains the pediment and inscription, re-erected on the Barnsbury Street front.  impressive block of offices and flats, A pretty Tudor plaque from the school has been incorporated into a sub-classical design 

4 Dove the builder moved in in 1842

7 Dove builder’s home

20 Dove builder’s home.  The place of the front door is taken by a passage through to Wellington Place, with no. 20's door opening into it.  Alexander Kenith Isbister, 1822-83, teacher and educational author, died here on 28 May 1883 having been master at the Proprietary School (1849-55), later Headmaster of the Jews' College in Finsbury Square (1856-8), and Master of the Stationers' Company School (1858-62); also Dean of the College of Preceptors from 1872 until his death.

51 & 52 Flats.  Site of Barnsbury Chapel (1835-41) Congregational church became an iron foundry.  Rochford's Iron foundry, demolished 1971.  Was in use until it became Rochford's Ironworks, unfortunately demolished in 1971.  Flats by Kenneth Pring, with a brick 'bastion' at the rear in Barnsbury Court recall some of the old chapel's angular features. The challenge of fitting a new building into this c19 setting has been met successfully by Pring, White & Partners.  

Moon Street

Humble service road.  The first to be built on the Milner-Gibson estate between 1829 and 1836

Mylne Street

New River after it left New River Head.  Small bit of Owen’s Row is left but name is still on the car park.  New River went right down it.  City University goes over the route

Northwest Place

1 removed to widen access when Claremont Mews was transformed into Claremont Close

Nelson Place

Noel Road

Called after Gerard Noel field owner.  Elegant Georgian

3 Hanover Street, John Lloyd Bullock

25 Joe Orton lived there from 1959, until murdered by Halliwell in 1967. He wrote Entertaining Mr.Sloane and went to prison for defacing library books.

50 Walter Sickert studio where he painted ‘hanging gardens of Islington’

60 George Gissing lived here. Victorian novelist he wrote The Nether World

87 Island Queen

Hanover Street School.  1932 unusual building squeezed between the canal and the street and so with a rooftop playground carried upon giant piers in from the street facade.  End pavilions combine Arts and Crafts corn position with Art Deco trim.

Canal tunnel. Carries the Regent's Canal under Islington - under Pentonville Hill, from Muriel Street in west Barnsbury to the top of Noel Road, following a perfectly straight course. It is built of brick at a height of 18 feet, including 7 feet 6 inches of water, and the width is 17 feet.  The depth of the cutting, as well as the number of houses which stood in the line of the canal, made it impracticable to continue it through Islington in the open.  It  was designed by James Morgan, Company Engineer, the contractor was Daniel Pritchard while Hugh McIntosh was the contractor for the earthworks..  It is 970 yards long with elliptical brick portals with sunburst rustication.  While the tunnel was underconstruction the New River, which crossed above it, was temporarily carriedin a wooden trough as a precaution against subsidence. There is no internal towpath and men were supposed to ‘leg’ it through while the horses went over the top. A steam tug on a chain was introduced in 1826.

Oakley Crescent

St.Peter's House

Langdon Court

Owen Street

Dame Alice Owen’s school. The school was rebuilt in Owen Street in 1840.And in1886 a girls school was added, itself rebuilt in 1962 after damage in WorldWar II. Between 1971 and 1976 the schools removed to Dugdale Hill Lane, Potter’s Bar. And thebuilding is now used by City University.Tudor gateposts. Dame Alice had an Arrow through her hat then three husbands. In 1608 she bought Ermitage Field, and founded the school. . In 1940, over 100 people were killed when an enemy parachute bomb made a direct hit on Dame Alice Owen's Girls School.  The basement was being used as a bomb shelter by 143 people that night. When the school moved took with them the statue of Dame Alice by George Frampton, 1897 in marble, bronze and alabaster; and nine figures rescued in 1751 from her tomb in St.Mary’s, Islington. After the schools permanently moved out of Islington, the Brewers' Company, still acting as trustee of the estate, entered into negotiations with City & Islington College who proposed to build a new Sixth Form Centre on the site. 

Packington Estate

1937 transferred to City Parochial, 1945 sold to London and Manchester Assurance Co. mostly bought by LB Islington in 1963.  Controversial scheme.  Large industrialised building scheme.  Built up by 1861.  Virtually unspoilt parts of the Clothworkers' Estate remain: surprisingly wide streets lined withuniform stucco-trimmed terraces of only two storeys.  Problems in 1960s between City Parochial and developers.  Council improvement plans.  Long public enquiry.  New system building.  Packington Project.

Packington Square

Refurbished by David Ford Associates and Islington Council Architect's Department in 1989-94 with colourful but crude additions.  Projecting canopies and bridges span the sunken gardens: hipped-roofedtowers take the place of linking decks.  

brick community office

Packington Street

The controversial scheme was the newly enlarged borough's most ambitious industrialized building scheme by H. Moncrieff of Cooperative Planning Ltd, using aWates system.

Northern District Post Office. At the corner of Packington Street. Removed to Upper Street 1905. Built in 1855 on land leased from the Clothworkers' Company; the original Packington Street elevation still survives behind the much later front.  Moved from Fore Street in 1805. 

Bridge and Wenlock basin.  1826 and one acre.  Residential moorings and birds

Area of open ground which has been archery practice area

Parkfield Street

Penton Street

Penton described by some as one of the hills from which prehistoric London was controlled.  A sacred mound – nearby the maze at White Conduit, and springs at Sadler’s Wells, and the reservoir!  ‘Pen’ means head and ‘ton’ means hill.

St.Silas. Perverse use of brick.  1860 by Teulon.  Completed 1863 by E. P. Loftus Brock to a simpler design.  

Harvest Lodge

Hayward House

Dobney's Tea Gardens

Salmon and Compasses

10 small green-painted general ironmongers shop of G J Chapman. In the morning one would often see the youngish proprietor clad in a brown warehouse coat outside the shop carefully arranging his ironmongery ware: stiff wooden-handled brooms, shiny galvanised buckets etc. This was a laborious business and it all had to be put back in the shop in the evening. The premises were gutted and redeveloped for housing. Chapman's had been in business for 20 years or more.

15 Metropolitan Police Public Carriage Office 1964.  By J. Innes Elliott.  With the pre-cast concrete panels with splayed reveals that were popular in the 1960s.

Elizabeth Garratt Anderson School.  1962.  Compact secondary school by Architects' Co-Partnership, 1962; house room around a central hall.

Pentonville Road

New road 1756, by pass, first omnibus route 1879, Shillibeer, north side of Peter Street is what remains of the whole plan, 1787 Aaron Hurst, Cord street, redundant Mr. Austin's museum of artificial stone

Pentonville.  Laid out partly by Cumming with the idea of a new town.  66 acres between St.John's and the Angel.  Laid out in 1773 with a grid layout.  Little finished until the 1840s.  Big row with Clerkenwell parish which went on for years, Sub leases, until 1830 toll road

Medici Co was Betjemann's works where the family made furniture, 1820

Lilley and Skinners concrete at its most emphatic.  10 storey building.  1947, boot and shoe manufacturers, set back from the road

Wine cash and carry was Cattermole's garage.  They had a fleet of 5 buses.  In 1924 they had a coach building works, petrol sales, office, etc. 23 hour garage, car and van hire, any sort of new car.  Claremont Omnibus Co.

46 T.Gerrard, plastic skeletons

56-92 Winchester Place.  Aaron architect of St James's Church for the new suburb (1787), also designed a terrace named Winchester Place in Pentonville road, opposite the reservoir enjoying a view of the City from the upper windows.  After 1858 it became part of Pentonville Road, and was entirely rebuilt long ago.  When the New River estate began to be developed in the 1820s, the Upper Pond became a natural site for a square, with part of Winchester Place ready-made as its north side.

64 was 16 Winchester Place until 1805 lived Thomas Cooke, the "Islington Miser", who achieved riches from poor beginnings largely through parsimony and cadging, and retired here from St Sepulchre's about 1791.  

96-98 Belvedere Tavern site of Bugsby’s Folly or Penny's Folly, eighteenth century theatre.  Racket court until the 1870s.  By odd coincidence, the widowed Prince, before he became king of the Belgians, used later to frequent the Belvedere Tavern on the Pentonville Road incognito, in days when its upper room was the venue of a political debating.  He was also at a meeting at the Belvedere that, on 15 June 1858, the British Horological Institute was formed an event now commemorated by a plaque on the tavern's facade.

166 London Female Penitentiary

173 Pentonville Wheel Works

178 Shaw's Freehouse

195 British Standards Institution

237 Penton Electronics

25-75 dignified four storey range

260 SOGAT

Kings Cross Welsh Tabernacle.  Congregational.  1853. 1853-4 by Henry Hodge; porch, entrance lobby and vestries by Alfred Conder, 1904.  Ragstone Gothic with slim decorated windows.  Lofty, well-preserved interior: pitch-pine gallery of 1857, original fittings, hammerbeam roof with bold pierced spandrels.  Dormer windows of 1904.

Pickering Place

2 How of Edinburgh

Pickering Street

Providence Place

Firemen’s flats for the London Salvage Corps

Providence Chapel 1832; c.1832, a simple pedimented box with altered round-arched windows

Queen's Head Street

Ram and Teazle

Islington Green School– the pupils sang on the Pink Floyd ‘s ‘Another Brick in the Wall’.

65-79, Garden site of Davis almshouses, 1798, modest, bombed

Heath's almshouses, gone

Pierrepoint Arcade

Chapter One

Rheidol Terrace

Islington Green School.  1965. Built with the Packington Estate Compact six-storey block of c. 1965 by ILEA Strong horizontal floor bands and twin concrete service cores threaded through next to the entrance board-marked concrete.

Remington Street

17 Trafalgar, 

Rheidol Terrace

Part of Frog Lane road from London to Highbury.

Richmond Avenue

94 part of a cluster of good shop fronts

Richmond Crescent

Richmond Gardens

Public garden

Risinghill Street

 NR

Ritchie Street

Named after developer of the Glebe land, Richard Chapman but in 1830 he went bankrupt

Penton Primary School

River Terrace North?

1830

1-5 bombed and used as a warehouse, Presbyterian Gothic church of 1834, next to 10 here originally at the council in 1960

Rocliffe Street

Rothery Street

St. Albans Place

Steps from Waterloo Place to St James Park mastic cement 'bituminous'

Termination of Nash's Regent Street, 1818 battle

Trafalgar House, National City Bank of New York and Societe Generale d'Escompte de Paris

Watson Indian Army bankers, bankrupt 1904, William York Building was Junior Army and Navy Stores, since Cunard-White Star Line

22 Tea Centre

T.Topham Dukes head rolling up pewter plates.

St.John Street

Alice Owen almshouses and the original school, whose three gables wereRed with an arrow were between theRed Lion and Owen Street. The site is where the playground wall turns towards Owen's Row. This was a right of way untilincorporated into the school grounds

New River the line where it crossed the road can be distinguished where the playground wall turns towards Owen's Row.

418 Old Red Lion Pub with literary associations back to Dr.Johnson but reputedly dated from the year of Agincourt 1415. One tradition has it that in a room of the original inn TomPaine wrote the first part of The Rights of Man but he didn’t.  Rebuilt in 1899.  Elaborate brick decoration.  1898-1900 by Myers.  Terracotta panels and elaborate brick decoration.

St. Mary's Path

St.Mary's Gardens

Church cottage, old grave diggers house, soup kitchen in outhouse

St.Peter's Street

Used to be called River Lane.

New River was in tunnel underneath, filled in 1950 after the pipes for the New River were put in. It emerged from a longtunnel built under Lower Street (Essex Road) and ran between the terracestowards the City Road bridges.

St.Peter's church.  St.Peter's in the brickfields, 1834.  Converted into flats c. 1990-

7-21 for the Clothworkers’.  Company.  They were developed byJames and Thomas Ward and possibly designed by Samuel Angell,Surveyor to the Clothworkers' Company

30 Duke of Cambridge. This large, open-plan, gastro-pub has a spartan, wood and whitewash decor. It has acted as a pioneer, promoting organic food and drink in the cosmopolitan 'off Upper Street' area of Islington

41 Salman Rushdie’s house which he had to leave because of the fatwa. Sold to a Faber editor

Cluse Court..  Monson's 1950s council housing with two ten-storey blocks of maisonettes, as mannered as 1950s furniture.

The Narrow Boat

Ragged School Boys Institute. 

Hattersfield estate, initially laid out by T. Cubitt in the 1830s.

Stonefield Estate

The Cloudesley estate was part of Barnsbury manor, and was also known as the Stonefield or Stoneyfield, or 14 Acres estate.  The long, narrow site lay between the Back Road and Thornhill Road - that bordered the Thornhill estate on the west.  In the early 16th century it had been owned by Sir Cloudesley who, dying in 1517, left an enigmatic will making generous donations to the parish but decreeing, rather significantly, that the priest pray thrice "for my sowle and all Christen sowles" and that a De Profundis be said for his soul with every mass.  His wife had been exorcised to keep the peace, 1517.  .His body was popularly believed to lie disturbed in his grave, and described  'The Islington Ghost", in 1760 the profits were £60, two centuries later they had risen to nearly £10,000 and in the 19th century the parish's tenant of the estate was the rich local dairy Samuel Rhodes.  In 1811 an Act was passed enabling the trustees to grant building leases.  The trustees got as far as laying the drainage, at a cost of £1,159.18.11, and making a plan for building on the estate.  In 1937 the bulk of the estate was auctioned, The rents were not enough to cover maintenance or improvement costs, and in the 1970s the trustees sold several long leaseholds with repairing covenants, since when upkeep on the estate as a whole has greatly improved and the remaining houses have been upgraded with changes in tenancies.  

Stonefield Street

Long street bisecting the square.  When the church was built this street was treated separately as Stonefield and Cloudesley Streets, with two lateral arms linked the square with Liverpool and Cloudesley Roads.  Houses clearly divided into pairs inrecessed bays. has some nice basement area gardens

Studd Street

Humble service road.  The first to be built on the Milner-Gibson estate between 1829 and 1836

GPO Stores

Sudley Street

Part of Frog Lane old road from London to Highbury.

1a Prince of Wales.  Sociable local in an Islington back street, proving that you can still find a genuine pub in an area overflowing with cafe-style bars. This pub once had three bars and a bottle and jug off-licence, and also survived a WWII bombing. It makes good use of dark wood panelling,

Terrets Place

3 At theend, a c18 sliver of a house but well preserved inside.  The front is  1720 with an original door and shopwindow.  under a dentilled moulding.  The back is 1750 with richly carved chimneypiece on the first floor; and a central staircase. Said to be the Pinch’s house in Martin Chuzzlewit.

Tetbury Place

Theberton Street

In 1823 the guardians of young Thomas Milner Gibson obtained licence to demise in order to build on their Islington fields.  From the south side of the Pied Bull, a footpath connected Upper Street with the Back Road at a point opposite where Cloudesley Square was very shortly laid.  Along this path (but starting north of the Pied Bull) the trustees proposed a road, to be called Theberton Street, lined with 3rd-rate houses.  From it would run two other small new roads of 4th-rate houses.  Named after Theberton in Suffolk where Milner-Gibson lived after 1829-31.  Laid out by Francis Edwards who also probably designed the houses.  

Gazebo is Victoria line vent.  North London and Islington Subscription School for Girls.  1817 for Calvinistic Methodist Chapel next door to Islington Chapel Society of Industry 1801 started in 1788 at the previous nursery garden of a local blacksmith

4 Sarcan

18 Sabor e Salsa.  Anunmannerly rebuilding with non-matching fenestration was allowed in the 1960s here.

20-24 the north side of Theberton Street (nos. 20-44) is probably by Gough and Roumeiu.

Thornhill Road

Meandering hill-top lane through White Conduit Fields/ Area called Minerva Road laid out from 1820.  Ran “from the west end of Barnsbury Park, before these houses Oldfield's Dairy and the Albion Cricket-ground."  Thomas Oldfield's Dairy and tea gardens, in the same family for generations, and his cricket-field where the Albion club had played for a quarter of a century, as modest successor to the earlier aristocratic players who moved on to become the Marylebone Cricket Club at Lord's, saw its last match the summer of 1834, and they themselves left for a still unthreatened site in Copenhagen House.  Minerva Street, still evidently unpaved, linked with "the footpath before the Albion", and south of this with "two spacious carriage roads namely Cloudesley and Barnsbury Roads, 

Thornhill House.  1902 for the East End Dwellings Company, with huge circular porch hoods.

1 first and second houses from Minerva Road leased to Benjamin Green, builder, of Morgan's Place, Liverpool Road.  These houses are built in the 'Barnsbury' style, but Thomas Bilham died July 1836, and his widow Frances began disposing of all his leasehold property;

35 rebuilt and addition of workshops to infill the back garden, encroaching on the side of the square.

45-45a Histon School

38-60 Prospect Cottages home of chief developer Thomas Whowell demolished 1970s

62-82 Minerva Terrace is in standard terrace style, in rhythm 4-3-4, with centre and end houses very slightly advanced.  Channelled stucco ground floor with windows circular-headed, cill bands immediately below upper floor windows.

70-74 three central houses distinguished with first-floor windows in| heavier surrounds - as are no. 76's, partly lost - and with a shallow top moulding and parapet.  Several houses have had modern attics added.  Fanlights plain umbrella'style; plain guard-rails, bowing out near the base.  The terrace runs from Brooksby to Bewdley Street, with side entrances to the end houses.                        

William the Fourth

Thornhill Road Board School.  1894, among the best of numerous classic Board schools of the 1890s by T.J. Bailey 1894-5

Drinking Fountain

Thornhill House.  1902 for the East End Dwellings Company.

Albion was Thomas Oldfield's Dairy and tea gardens.  Cricket played which became the Middlesex County Club

Albion Mews

Albion Place

Albion Terrace

Alma Terrace

Thornhill Street?

Victorian school at Albion Place.  Tea garden, 1800, for cricketing and dancing.  North London synagogue, 1868, Italianate

62-82 Minerva Terrace 1827.  Apparently built by Louis England

106-145 1832 rest 1840s.  Cottages between railway and Brewery Road expired gardens of French colony f. Philm Baeme.  As became slums.  1860s leases ran out and other streets built.  Blundells, Naily, Fredrica.  Pleasant gardens 'sadly neglected'

Torrens Street

Candid Gallery

Upper Street

Old British track way from London to Highgate.  Leading to Highbury Station and Holloway Road, the principal shopping thoroughfare of Islington, and about a mile in length.  turnpike gate stood here, at the pointwhere the Back Road, now called Liverpool Road, cuts off to Holloway.  Thegate and small toll house have gone and sheep no longer amble across thestreet, but the curve of high buildings on the left, the breadth of road whichmarks it as a major highway, the street is now largelyc19. . One of the oldest streets in the area. It winds gently from the Angel to Highbury Comer and is a mix of the unusual and the commonplace. At its start is the high pavement which was built 400 years ago to help people to get to church without being covered with mud

1-7 Clarke's Place

3 Clarks Place, Accum's first shop in London

29 University Books

40-42 Scholl’s Training School, Islington Foot Clinic

44-45 Champion later The Passage then Star and Garter

46 Sonar Gaon

56 Three Wheatsheaves

59-66 Gloucester Place

68-74 Oddy's Row

70 Ruby in the Dust

72 Cuba Libre

75 Dome Antiques was the Electric Theatre

83-85 Screen on the Green previously Empress and then Rex.  Former Picture Theatre of 1911 refitted successfully by Fletcher Priest,1981. 

91-92 London Salvage Corps Fire Station.  1884. Bright red brick by William Wimble

100 Pied Bull.  An ancient hostelry said to have been a country house of Sir Walter Raleigh's family.  Owned by the nuns.  Smoking room.  Cattle interest.  True Britons met there.  Waxworks. 

107 was school

115 King's Head.  Duck shooting and food.  Pepys, 1664.  The ducking pond.  Strong beer.  King's Head Theatre with a lavish late c19 front.  A world famous pub-theatre whose productions often transfer to the West End and even to Broadway. A pub has stood here for 440 years and has had the same owner for the last 34. Originally three bars, it was changed to one in 1970, when the theatre was installed, and many famous 'names have appeared here. The pub is basic with two fireplaces, theatre spotlights and old theatre seats. You are still served in pounds, shillings and pence, using an enormous, ornate, pre-decimal till.

116-118 Northern District Post Office.  1906. Quite lavish.  By the Office of Works.  Edwardian Baroque, red brick quite lavish stone sculpture, including two caryatids supporting central pediment.

127 Granita

130 The Mitre, 

130a Mitre Court

134-137 rear Casale Franco, Al Alysse

140-143 Rabieng Thai.  Decorative terra cotta.  Late c19, by Herbert Huntly-Gordon, who had a special interest inthe use of terracotta.  Here the material is probably by Doulton & Co., is bright orange, with ornate Francois I decoration.

147 a plaque honouring a famous former resident, the artist and illustrator Kate Greenaway

153 The Royal Mail.  1879 narrow front.  A narrow front with mullioned windows and pediment over a delicate timber pub front with bowed centre; original fittings and engraved glass inside.

154 Young's

169-179 Barnsbury Place

176 La Piragua

181 Hare and Hounds

181 Sutton Estate.  Red and yellow brick blocks.  Three-storey blocks of 1926 with Arts and Crafts details.  Further blocks to the rear by Neylan & Ungless, 1985-90.

193 Beller's This blue-painted shop proclaims they are underwear and corsetry specialists. The shop front is fairly standard Vicwardian

Etal House

Naver House

Site of Church Missionary College

182 Upper Street Bookshop

Marsden's Wine Lodge

190 Sisterwrite. . Women's interests are extensively catered, a feminist bookshop.

Thomas Plimsoll brother office as a coal merchant 159

203 Popular Book Centre 291

204 Hope and Anchor.  c. 1880, a lavishstuccoed front with arched windows

Trinity Row

235 Angel and Crown

251 HQ of CIU

260-272 Hornsey Row

266 Cooksey undertakers

268 Canonbury Bookshop

295 Islington Labour Party

297 Roxy Cafe Cantina

301 Pasha

302 Islington Medical Centre

303-304 the Franco-Flemish former dispensary and soup kitchen founded 1821, rebuilt 1886.                

309-321 Islington Church Row

313 was City Limits

313-300 Church Row

316 Bread and Roses

323 Phelps publishers

Miles & Co.

324 Upper Street Fish Shop

328 The Other Bookshop

333 undertakers

334 Cafe Flo

362 Nam Bistro

Islington Congregational Chapel.  1888,.  Norman Shaw style.  Ironwork by St.Pancras Iron Co. Galleried inside is studios and offices.  Congregational, by H.J. Paull of Bonella & Paull, his last work.  

A remarkably handsome red brick front of Norman Shaw style, the first chapel in Police Station, 1903, good building for its date

Town Hall, 1925, smallish, asymmetrical, 'spacious', 1921.  Handsome committee room inside.  It is a spacious building with a facade of Port- land stone, but its appearance might be greatly enhanced by the addition of a lofty clock-tower.  Designed by E. C. P. Monson, together with Tyndale Mansions.  Built in 1922-6.  The wings committee rooms, offices etc. entered from Richmond Grove.  The council chamber, set back with a formal entrance on Upper Street, and the housing.  The town hall is not grand but smallish, asymmetrical, and mixed in style, though all steel-frame and Portland stone-faced with cast-iron panels.  The first part restrained English Baroque, with an engaged temple front on Upper Street marking the public hall. One of the capital's first town hall to exploit steel-framed construction, this stylistically mixed, asymmetrical building was designed by E. C P. Monson and built in three stages during the 1920s. The first part, erected in 1922-3 provided a mayor's parlour  three committee rooms and offices fronting Upper Street, and the second part of 1925-6 housed the council chamber, members room" a fourth committee room and additional offices. The third part, a large neoclassical public hall, was built flanking this in 1920. 

Islington Vestry Hall, demolished. This Italianate building was built in 1858-9 to the designs of Thomas Allom who came second in a competition of 1856  accusations of jobbery prevented the winning designs of H. E Cooper being realised. Public offices were added by Arthur Allom, the architects’ son, in 1878. The building was sold in 1925 following the construction of the new town hall.

Tyndale Terrace little garden behind the imposing metal railings and gate. This tiny north-facing courtyard is packed with inspiration for gardeners coping with shade: variegated foliage plants to brighten dark corners and an abundance of white flowers, many of them scented - roses, 

Angel Picture Theatre, only tower left

Islington Empire was Berners Hall became Blue Hall and then Gaumont Cinema

St.Mary's Church.  Called Cathedral of Evangelism.  Once it stood on the fringe of Islington common, bounded by what is now Essex Road on the east side.  A succession of prints show that, until the mid-nineteenth century, the place was one of green sward relieved here and there by groups of trees.  Now St Mary's stands by the crowded high road, surveying what the Victorian developer did to the Green.  A great and beautiful church in what is now one of the most populous of parishes, it .9.40 all bombed flat, rebuilt 1956.  Had been a medieval parish church.  The successor to one or more churches occupying the same site Methodist conference held there 1739.  Site of Whitfield's first open-air sermon.  Vicar resigned.  Old church demolished and rebuilt 1751, f. stone rebuilt at a cost of £7,340.  1754 Laurence Dowbiggen 'citizen and joyner of London', built by Samuel Steemson.  Church, The foundation stone was laid by James Colebrooke, the largest landed proprietor in the parish, on 28 August 1751.  The building was opened on 26 May 1754.  A handsome tower surmounted by a spire of Portland stone1783 enclosed in wickerwork, 6d.  Only the steeple and tower left from Dowbiggen.  The rebuilding of 1954-6 is by Seely & Paget, 

St Mary's Neighbourhood.  Centre by Keith Harrison & Associates, 1976-7.  Low concrete block wings flank a small garden.  Foundation stones by Ralph Beyer, with Christian symbols.

Churchyard is a garden with R.Cloudesley.  1517, 2 duellists buried in one grave.  16th century, Hannah Lightfoot, Quaker and mistress of George III.  John Rough made the Saracens head - betrayed and 12.  Vicar made coins out of church brasses Protestant martyrs, foundation of Church Pastoral Aid Society, Vicar Daniel Wilson, 1832 Bishop of Calcutta, Metropolitan of India, weird shaped obelisk with a bulgy front 1903, porch, plate, etc.

Vicarage W.H.Bradlow.

Memorial Hall 1890.

St.Mary’s Neighbourhood Centre

Flight's Yard

Tyndale Mansions.  Designed along with the Town Hall

Three Wheatsheaves

St.Mary's Schools

Fire Station.  By fire brigade in house architect.  Architect Peter J. Smith, 1993.  It follows a line of c19 terraces red and yellow brick.  Jazzed up with a row of triangular oriels and ship’s rail balconies.  Tower with oriels at the top.

Unity Church

Service Station site of Odeon, previously Lido Cinema and vestry hall before that

Royal Agricultural Hall.  -Built 1861-2 and used principally for cattle shows, it also housed such displays as Ashley's Horses, Blondin's Tightrope Act and Bertram Mills Circus and in March, 1870, a group of men, including some Spanish matadors, were prosecuted for promoting bull-fighting thereofficials from the Royal Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals dived into the ring to stop what they saw as a cruel and barbaric display.  From 1939 the Post Office parcels department used it but since then it has become largely derelict.  in 1982 it was bought for £lm from Islington Borough Council and it was reported that a further £7m was to be spent on converting it into the Business Design Centre.  It opened in October, 1986, to provide an exhibition hall, showrooms, a conference centre and three restaurants.  The frontage of the Business Design Centre is reminiscent of the Crystal Palace; the 'Aggie' was built within ten years of the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park for which the Crystal Palace was constructed.  When the Hall was being refurbished a cast-iron walkway, believed to have been part of the Crystal Palace, was discovered among the debris on the second floor. The name from the front of the original Hall has been erected near the main entrance of the Business Design Centre

Vincent Street?

Built 1838

Vincent Terrace

Steps down to canal

Tunnel

Prince of Wales

Waterloo Terrace

Site of Save Botanic gardens from Dr.Pitcairn President RCP

White Conduit Street

Street belonged to the City.  Spring head supplied water to Charterhouse since 1654, spring channelled there in flint and brick.  White structure built in 1641.  Then a beer house became the White Conduit House and Pleasure Grounds - views, reservoir in the centre.  Sold cresses in London streets, horsemanship, bull baiting, bowls, etc.  Gardens between Barnsbury Road and White Conduit Street.  Green's balloons left from there, skittles, etc. 1820 vulgarised.  Apollo Room Ball room.  Conduit demolished 1831.  1780 cricket pub called the Albion.  1780 the cricket club became Middlesex County Club.  Thomas Lord MP got the grounds.  Tolpuddle Martyrs welcomed there.  Bugsby's Folly Tea Gardens.  It was so named from a white stone conduit that stood at the entrance.  The gardens were handsomely laid out, and there was a reservoir in the centre, as well as tea-rooms for the entertainment of visitors.  

White Lion Street

Porch belongs to 1733 Penton

Turnpike

Causeway

Claremont United Reformed Church built as the Claremont Institute behind the older chapel in 'Pentonville Road.  Claremont Central Mission.  Islington Claremont United Reformed Church.  Built as the Claremont Institute.  1906-10 by Alfred Conder.  Three storeys, modestly decorated with striped pilasters and pierced parapet.  A rear adjunct to the former Claremont Chapel of 1818-19 in Pentonville Road

57 Home for Penitent Females.  Doric pediment.  One good house, four storeys, Doric porch with openpediment;

Penton School became White Lion Free School

White Lion Youth Centre

73 Three Johns

55 Lord Wolseley

71 Pentecostal Church of the Living God

74-77 Kapp and Peterson tobacco pipe makers

Street Market

Board School.  1874; additions with steeply roofed pavilions, 1900

Windsor Street

Wynford Road Estate

Starcross School

Elizabeth Garratt Anderson School

Sun Brewery

Penton Residences

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Dunsprings Lane

The manor of Emelingbury or Emelyn was at Barkingside. the place was near Mossford Green and Gayshams.  Emelingbury lay north-west of Browning, on the higher ground at the end of Dunsprings Lane. The 'bury' suffix suggests that Emelingbury was part of the original demesne of Barking Abbey.

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Fairlop

Named from a famous oak tree, in what was then Hainault Forest called ‘Fair Lop Tree’ in 1738. Fairlop Oak is marked on the Ordnance Survey map of 1805, and cut down in 1820. In spite of other colourful traditions about the origins of the name, it means ‘lopped tree where fairs took place'; an annual fair was held under the shade of the tree in the 18th century. Fairlop Fair" founded by Daniel Day 1683-1767 a block- and pump-maker of Wapping, who owned a small estate near Hainault Forest.  When he went to receive his rents there, on the first Friday in July, he used to take a party of friends to eat bacon and beans in the shade of the Fairlop Oak.  By about 1725 this private picnic had developed into a regular fair. The block- and pump-makers of Wapping used to go tliere in a large boat mounted on wheels, accompanied by others in wagons, on horse-back and on foot. The roistering that accompanied the fair displeased the authorities, who made several attempts to suppress the fair, but it survived Day's death, the destruction of the oak, and even the disafforestation of Hainault. About 1856 the government inclosed the site of the fair and shut out the public

Fairlop Oak

Fairlop Oak. The massive Fairlop Oak blew down in 1820. The annual fair was held beneath its shade, which covered an area of 91 metres in circumference. No booth was allowed to be erected beyond the extent of its boughs. It was His favourite tree, out of which he made a coffin for his own interment. It was judged that the act did not injure the tree but was a 'fair-lop'! The pulpit and reading desk in the church of St Pancras were constructed from its remains. It stood about a mile north-east of Aldborough Hatch, on or near the site of the present Hainault recreation ground in Forest Road. Peter Kalm, the Swedish naturalist, who visited it in 1748, measured the circumference of the trunk, at a height of 4 ft. from the ground, as 30 ft. and the spread of the branches as 116 ft. By the end of the 18^th century the tree was moribund; a writer of 1791 thought that its decay had been hastened by the lighting of fires in the bole during the fairs. After further damage by fire in 1805 the oak was blown down. The remains of the tree were uprooted with the rest of Hainault Forest in 1851. In 1909 a new oak was planted in the recreation ground, on a site thought to be that of the old one. Another tree, called the 'new Fairlop Oak' was planted on the green at Fulwell Cross in 1951.

The oak is said to hve been near the boat huse at fairlopwarers

Fairlop Plain.

Nature area. A small proportion of this wide flattish former farmland is to be developed in a habitat recreation scheme concentrating on wetland. Farmland which still retains hedges was used in both World Wars as an airstrip but was bought in the 1950s by Ilford council for gravel or sand extraction and for the disposal of rubbish. Of over 1,000 acres just over half may continue to be farmed but the rest of the site is to become a country park and golf course. 5.5 hectares, which include former gravel workings, is to be a lagoon nature reserve at the suggestion of LWT. Bird life has long been attracted to the open water and many rare species have been recorded such as whimbrel, smew and the bar-tailed godwit.

Fighter aerodrome. Used in the First World War with Sopwith Camels.  The City of London wanted to build a large civil airport here but were interrupted by the Second World War.  Used again then. Plans for a civil airport here abandoned in 1953 and Ilford Council bought it from the City of London.

a society of archers, called the Hainault Foresters, founded about 1770, held their meetings on Fairlop Plain. The posts used for roping in their ground were still standing early in the 19th century.

Fairlop Waters,

Open ground created by clearance of part of The King's Wood in 1853. The Crown divided the land between three farms - Hainault Farm, Forest Farm and Foxburrows Farm Its preservation from development seems to have been an accident. Forest Farm's land became a balloon station in the First World War. An RFC landing ground was established at Hainault Farm. Part of the land was sold in 1938 to the Corporation of London who intended it for City Airport. It became RAF Fairlop, 1941-5, as a base for fighter squadrons but sold to Ilford Borough Council after the War. Pits dug for gravel extraction were flooded as boating lakes and the ground opened as a country park and golf course. Plans in 2001 for the London City Plans for a Racecourse designed by Foster & Partners were refused in 2002.

North Road

School of Dame Alice Tippy, rebuilt nineteenth century, Queen Victoria gave 

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GLC/Redbridge boundary

Goes east to the edge of Mile Plantation where it meets the Havering boundary

The GLC/Havering boundary

Goes due east across the Mile Plantation and on

All Saints,

1867, excellent of its sort, 13^th century style chancel, rebuilt 1918/19, opposite Hainault Hall, five bay brick house with three bay pediment  Victorian church built on forest land

Hainault Hall

Chigwell Row

Early 19^th lttle community on  the edge of the forest.

Romford Road

Maypole pub

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Frinton Road

Stone marker for the boundary of Waltham Forest

Hog Hill

In 1883 50 celts found here

Golf Club was a school built in 1885 and closed in 1911

Hog Hill House was the tied house for the Master of Hainault Forest.

Coal post outside no 70

Whalebone Lane

Whale bone set up for Turnpike.

Outside Warren School site of Boundary stone of Hainault Forest, marker now in Valance House

Turnpike Corner, site of school in Chadwell Heath built in 1857 until 1961 when demolished.  It had been used by London Co-op before that

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Billet Road

Furze House Farm.  ‘Furze’ House refers to the gorse.  Furze House Farm House, 1839-40 with modest later extensions. 

These fields of wheat and potatoes lying at the northern apex of Barking and Dagenham are the only remaining productive farmland in the Borough and are the last remnant of an agricultural landscape, which predominated until the 1920s.  The fields slope gently down to a drainage ditch on the Redbridge boundary overlooking open countryside and producing wheat and potatoes once the dominant produce in Barking. 

In the early nineteenth century this land lay within Hainault Forest and It was only after the removal of the forest's legal protection in 1851 that the area became a farm. 

Some of the forest survives still in several old oak trees; five stand north of the farmhouse and two others mark a former hedgerow that ran from the farmhouse garden to Billet Road. 

Today, there are four large arable fields with discontinuous hedgerows. wild plants that still grow among the crops 

The neatly trimmed hedge along Billet Road does not offer many opportunities for birds but several of the young oaks are being left to grow. The ditch running on the north-west edge of the site supports grasses and brambles rather than wetland vegetation, although there are a few clumps of soft rush. The access track to the farmhouse from Billet Road is lined with a neatly trimmed hawthorn hedge on either side and to the east of it lies a small field of rough grassland. 

College Row Road

Wellgate community farm

Coal post south of the road in the grounds of Sungate House

Colliers Row

Reference to charcoal burners cottages in Marks gate

Former school building

Oaks in the field opposite the farm house remains of the forest

Wheat and potatoes only farm in Barking

Drainage ditch on the Redbridge boundary

Land used to be in Hainault Forest

Marks Gate

This was one of the entry points to Hainault Forest. Hatches or gates here, the boundary marked with hedges and rows of stones.

Stone coffin with grave goods dug up in 1936.

Gobions was the name od the local manor also known as Uphavering.  Collier Row Common had a manor called Great Gobions on tone side and another called just Gobions on the other side.  In 1670 there were 56 houses and five inns. Commons enclosed in 1814

‘Collier Row referred to a row of charcoal burners' cottages that lay alongside the road at Marks Gate. Marked thus on the earliest Ordnance Survey map. ‘CoIyers rewe’ 1440, ‘Colyers Rowe’ mid-15th century, ‘Colley row 1694 - that is row of houses occupied by charcoal burners. Middle English ‘collier’ and ‘rewe’ or ‘rowe’.

Whalebone Lane

White's Farm. Overlooks farmland to the south-east. Until the final disafforestation in 1851 it lay at the edge of Hainault Forest, and the ancient boundary hedge of the Liberty of Havering atte Bower, which is the Borough boundary, runs along the eastern margin. There is a small horse-grazed pasture, an unmanaged grassy field, hedges and a pond. 

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Collier Row Lane,

Church of the Good Shepherd 1934-5 by Newberry & Fowler. Conservative late Gothic, elegant and refined. 

Vicarage roughcast upper floor

Havering Road

Gobions Primary, 1952-3, is a typical design by H. Conolly, the Essex County Architect.

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Broxhill Road

Round House, east of church and green. Oval building, c.1800 was owned by a tea merchant and modelled on a tea caddy. Owned by Pemberton, the rose grower, Alexandra Rose Well concealed. Built c. 1792 for William Sheldon, restored with much care in 1980-1. Convincingly attributed by Neil Burton to John of St Mary Paddington, who designed the circular Belle 1775 Sheldon was a subscriber to Flaw's rendered walls and a far-projecting roof with Westmorland slates.  The house stands on a mound, which cleverly conceals the service basement and an encircling outer passage lit by gratings in its vault.  This can be reached by a tunnel which starts close to the dairy

Dairy, a tiny building with rendered front, four pilasters, and pediment.  The room on the ground floor and the one on the first floor fill a half circle, the others are uncertain whether all the present subdivisions are original to the central stair, with slim straight banisters, winds to the top floor through a roof-lit oval drum with the chimney flues and is concentric with the outer further stair one can enjoy excellent views.  French panoramic wallpaper of c. 1820 is now in the Victoria and Albert Museum.  The basement stair forms a separate lobby but in 1930 was relocated.

The Thatch, a one-storey thatched cottage

Havering-atte-Bower,

Palace there in the Middle Ages, Hilltop village green.  Used by medieval kings, Edward III invited Richard II there.  1465.  Library owned green.  Palace was called the Bower or Pyrgo  The village lies on a ridge of high ground, a few older houses around the green.  The Royal Liberty of Havering, which existed from the Middle Ages is roughly coterminous with the modern borough, and took its name from the palace, or royal hunting lodge here which was west of the present church.  It was used as a royal residence from the c12 to the time of Henry VIII.  Nothing remains. In the c13 Henry III embellished the chapel and the queen's lodgings. The palace was the official house of the English Queens and a dower house for the queen mother from 1273, and subsequently until Henry VIII's third wife, Jane Seymour.  The infant Prince Edward had a household here in 1538; Elizabeth I and James I visited several times, but by the early c17th the palace was runinous. The buildings are shown on a map of 1578, an irregular straggle with prominent buttressing, suggests c13 and c14 structures.  in the early c19 nothing remained apart from a building in use as the parish church.

Some story that the name comes from Edward the Confessor who was asked for alms by a beggar and instead said ‘have a ring’. Then the beggar gave the ring to some pilgrims telling them to tell the king he would die within six months – and he did. The ring is on the borough coat of arms.  Thought the name comes from a landowner called Haefer.

Water tower

Green

Stocks. A rarity in Essex and a whipping post.  Restored 1966.

Cottages and forge: group of weatheboarded cottages of three and two bays, the eastern one with one-storey forge attached.

Garage of several dates, partly c18: front range with the parapet and early c19 tripartite window at the steep-roofed range behind, perhaps earlier.

North Road

Royal Oak

Rose Cottage, another carefully restored timber-framed weatherboarded cottage its subsisting timbers suggest a possibly early c18 date.

Ivy Hollows c19, rendered, with bay windows and an attractive along the whole front.

Dame Tipping School, with informative plaques: founded 1837, rebuilt again 1891.  The Tudor schoolhouse 1837: yellow brick with dripstones.

St.John the Evangelist, 1875/8 This Victorian church replaced a simple building with thatched nave, reputedly  On the site of one of the chapels of the royal palace.  By Basil Champneys early work of this Arts and Crafts architect. Flint with stone dressings with an aisle in the Essex tradition, and a surprisingly elaborate tower porch.  

Church Hall.  Two buildings now linked.  One’ attractive design of 1902, given by the Pemberton family.  Pale brick with stone dressings; round-arched.  The windows with wooden mullions and arched Stonework with delicately tooled patterns.

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Pyrgo Park

Magnificent gateposts

The royal estate included the area which later became Pyrgo Park, where there was another house, rebuilt as a classical villa in 1851-2 by Allason, remodelled in Italianate style by E.M. Barry and demolished in 1938.

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Lower Bedfords Road

Crenellated tower with stair 1816 as an eyecatcher by John?  Demolished house called Bedfords. Origin late c18 weatherboarded

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Grange Road

Hilldene Primary School.

Heaton Grange

Named after John Heaton born in 1740 and a City Lawyer with offices in Old Burlington Street.  In 1771 he bought the Manor of Bedfords where he was to live. When Romford, Harold Wood, Common was enclosed in 1814 Heaton bought 35 acres for £2,300 but actually got more than he had paid for.  He set up a model farm there called Heaton Grange. It was a big success.

Romford Council bought the farm in the 1950s and developed it for housing.

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Broadway.

Houses have gardens backing down to the former fishponds of the Gidea Hall estate.

Brook Road

Houses built in the 1934 'Modern Homes' exhibition.  Initiated by Raphael's son, the ambition was the same - economically built, architect-designed houses capable of challenging the speculative competitors and demonstrating the benefits of rational design - but the achievement fell short of that. The houses are closer to the homegrown modern of Crittal's Silver End than the full-blooded Modernism of Tecton.

18 by Spencely was flat-roofed with continuous glazing on the first floor and a glazed bay window

Eastern Avenue

Houses built in the 1934 'Modern Homes' exhibition.  Initiated by Raphael's son, the ambition was the same - economically built, architect-designed houses capable of challenging the speculative competitors and demonstrating the benefits of rational design - but the achievement fell short of that.

328-30, a pair of semi-detached houses by Stevenson & Yorke

Gallows Corner A junction on the old Roman road to Colchester  - Eastern Avenue splits here with one road going to Southend and one to Colchester. so called because it was once the site of a gallows for prisoners from Havering and some from Colchester.

Sports Ground. Cricket pavilion almost on the site of the gallows. Used by Gidea Park and Romford Cricket Club and Romford Hockey Club.

Tesco Extra supermarket

Gidea Park        

Gidea Park First recorded as Guydie hallparke in 1668, named from la Gidiehall 1258, Giddyhalie 1376, Gydihall 1466, Gidea Hall 1805, literally 'the foolish or crazy hall', from Middle English gidi and hall, perhaps alluding to a building of unusual design or construction, but possibly to the eccentric behaviour of those who lived there! Or it could be from ‘ged’ and ‘ea’ meaning ‘pike water’. In the mid-16th century it was the home of Sir Anthony Cooke, a tutor to King Edward VI. Said to be where Lady Jane Grey was tutored.  150 acre garden with melons and vines. Demolished in 1718 and a Georgian mansion built. Latterly a club house for Romford Golf Club. It was demolished in the 1930s after the residential garden suburb of Gidea Park had been established in its grounds. A print in Essex Record Office shows the departure of Charles I and his mother-in-law, Marie de Medici, Queen Mother of France, from Gidde Holie in 1638.

Gidea Hall, Marie de Medici, mother of Queen Henrietta Maria, stayed the night before her before she met the King at Romford.  The old Gidea Hall, pulled down many years ago, was commenced by Sir Thomas Cooke who died in 1478, and was completed by Sir Anthony who entertained Queen Elizabeth here in 1568     G a late medieval mansion and residence of the Cooke family during the c16 and c17, but rebuilt in the c18 and set within formal landscaped gardens. The house stood near Hare Street, the main road from Romford, where a small hamlet was home to Humphrey Repton in the early 1800s. Sir Herbert Raphael M.P., who had leased 90 acres for a golf course only a few years earlier, acquired the Hall and its estate in 1897. In 1909 he formed Gidea Hall Development Co. (later Gidea Park Ltd), with the express intention of developing a garden suburb, along the lines of Hampstead, in the area around Gidea Hall. Gidea Hall was demolished in 1930

Heath Drive

Leads into the suburb proper, the tone strictly kept to half-timbering

Entrance gates and section of wall, dated 1750 of Gidea Hall

3, 5 and 7 half-timbering, but on a big scale by Bunney & Makins,

Pair of houses by T.M.Hora, with colour-washed gables, cat slide roofs and huge triplets of diagonal chimneystacks. Indeed, the scale of houses in this part is rather larger than the standard: neither those by Bunney & Makin were exhibition houses/

 Mansfield Gold Club concessions for Great Eastern railway Employees from London.

41 first of the representative, if not the most superior, exhibition houses by Parker & Unwin Double-height bows to the front light the principal rooms. Along the flank of the double-depth drawing room, panels of Art Nouveau stained glass. Inside, moveable partitions and inglenook fireplaces. The house was designed with all its furniture.

43 by Curtis Green, with diaper brickwork

64 Modern movement competition winning house. The one clear exception prize-winning by Francis Skinner and Tecton, one of their first and built for only £900. Two storeys of reinforced concrete L-shaped with the service range overlooking the street. The main rooms towards its garden. Strip windows on the side and a sun terrace carried on pilotis, all distinctive motifs. The terrace has been partly built over and truncated by the addition of a room. The house was designed for repetition along Heath Drive to form a white-walled frontage, a daring concept and one alive to the new forms of social housing rather than the one-off

45-8, four large Neo-Georgian houses by Ronald P. Jones, an able practitioner of the emerging style. The centre pair are set back tightly, but otherwise identical with brick corner quoins, large eaves cornice and pedimented door cases.

Maresfield Crescent

1937.

Meadway

34 - 36 some of the smaller cottage houses sold for £375, both by C.M. Crickmer

27, by Van Hoff & Maxwell, with a cruciform plan, central chimneystack. In fact a pair divided internally by a passage.  Upper storey contained in the roof. Beautifully detailed tile work and forward sweeping eaves.

16 prize-winning by Philip Tilden, a squat two-storey cottage with short, hipped roof wings designed with box room and stores.

7 by Percy Houlton is Neo-Georgian red brick banded with grey.

4 by Gripper & Stevenson a central two-storey porch, and arched entrance with tiles

Risebridge Road

Last of the 1911 houses

Southend Arterial

Built 1925

Straight Road

Renamed from Gallows Lane and straightened and widened.

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Bull Lane

Ancient Lane which used to cross the Oxford Road and go across Bulstrode Park and continued as Hedgerley Lane. Probably diverted by the Earl of Portland in 1707.  It was here that the parish boundary changed from Chalfont St.Peter and Fulmer. 

Original boundary stones to the new parish of Gerrards Cross marked GV 1860

Bulstrode Way

Land near Latchmoor Pond bought by built by Hampton Gilks and Moon in 1906 from the owners of Latchmoor Villa, from an owner of Marsham Lodge and from the Gurneys.  They then laid out the road

Camp Road

Bulstrode Camp.  Hill fort.

Gerrards Cross

The actual cross has been taken as where the road from Slough crosses the Oxford Road but it is more likely to have been west of this where Bull Lane crossed at the Bull Inn and Latchmoor Pond.

Layters Way

Developed by Hampton Gilks and Moon

Oxford Road

Latchmoor Pond.  Drinking water for travellers and their horses.   Latch means bog.  The pond gives its name to Latchmoor Field on which the modern town is built. 

Bull Inn. Previously the Oxford Arms.   On 1686 map.  Good stop to get away from the highwaymen. Extended in 1735.  Not really a coaching inn, a stop for private coaches and known to the Old Berkeley Hunt.  In the early 19^th was sold to Weller’s Amersham Brewery.  In 1918 closed and used as staff accommodation for the park, but in 1932 reopened as a pub and it was extended again.  Now a hotel with 123 bedrooms. 

The Golden Cross. Closed in the late 19^th

Raylands Mead originally called Woodbank.  This was a school founded by the Earl of Portland for his tenants’ children.  This was closed when Bulstrode was sold in 1810 and became a house for William Gaskell and successive tenants until in 1906 it was the home of Sam Fay who was General Manager of the Great Central Railway.  In the 1920s it was renamed by Eardley-Wilmot who lived there until the 1960s. It was demolished in 1980.

Lodge to Orchehill House

New Pond Cottages belonged to the Bulstrode Estate. 

Bulstrode Court flats on the site of Heathfield 1887. demolished 1960s

Post Office and smithy. Run until 1836 by William Hunt and replaced around 1907.

Oxford Road Garage built in 1931 on the site of Claude Baldwin building yard which itself was on the site of the old smithy. 

Top Park

Laid out to plans for Sir John Ramsden in 1934 who intended to turn the camp into a golf course. 

Stoneygaye Burgess Holden and Watson 1936

Valley Way

Laid out to plans for Sir John Ramsden in 1934 who intended to turn the camp into a golf course. 

West Common Road

Walpole House.  One of a number of cottages gentrified in the 18^th and 19^th .  Once known as Latchmoor House and then Belle Vue and named Walpole House in 1941. The resident in 1800 was William Beckwith and then had a succession of owners and tenants including the Duke’s agent and a major farmer as well as a retired ribbon manufacturer.  In 1912 it was the home of Professor Brerton and then by author Edward O’Brien.  In 1941 Jan Smit a Dutch diamond merchant renamed it after HMS Walpole which had rescued himself and his hoard of industrial diamonds in the Channel.

Old Vicarage.  This was a farmhouse later renamed Latchmoor Cottage. Then when the Vicar moved in it was the Vicarage but since divided.  In 1876 it was swapped as the Vicarage with Watercroft House and Latchmoor Cottage became  the home of landscape artist Peter Graham who kept highland cattle. By 1900 portrait painter Frederick Cullen lived there and his family stayed until 1939.

Latchmoor House.  Another old farmhouse with a early 19^thposh façade. In the 1830s owned by Joseph Shackell and his family renamed it Latchmoor Cottage when next door became the Vicarage.There were various tenants in 1911 Arthur Saunders built an extension.  When Walpole House was named by Jan Smit the residents here took over the name of Latchmoor House.

Waterside.  Another small farmhouse rebuilt in the 19^thas a posh residence by a John Kemp and called Latchmoor Villa.  It was renamed Waterside in 1924

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Camp Road

Estate developed by Richmond Watson and the Watson Investment Company

Dukes Wood Drive

Estate developed by Richmond Watson and the Watson Investment Company

Manor Lane

Windsor Road

Developed after 1932

77 White Gables built as Timbercombe 1936 for Cyril Mervyn White, racing driver who died in a crash the next year.  Designed by Prentice and Partners.

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Dukes Wood Estate

Developed by Sir John Ramsden late 1920s and this continued into the 1940s.

East Common Road

Berkeley Cottage. Built in 1818 on the corner with Mill Lane for Thomas Oldacre the Huntsman with the Old Berkeley Hunt. Later owned by George Healy and sold in 1906.

Colston Court flats. On the site of Gerrards Cross Church of England School built 1861.  The head was Charles Colston who was also Parish Clerk until 1928.  Demolished 1971 after the school had moved. Flats built 1974.

Fulmer Common

The area south of the Oxford Road.  Enclosure Act by the Duke of Somerset in 1865.  The Duke could thus sell building plots along the Oxford Road before the railway came.

Fulmer Road

Elmwood Park houses  built on the site of Felbrigg built in 1931 for G.N.Rouse

Gaviots Close

44 council houses post war

Gaviots Green

36 council houses post-war

Gaviots Way

Council housing by Eton Urban District 1922 fifty houses planned but only 16 built for ex-servicemen.

Oxford Road

French Horn.  In 1743 this was a tenement and a blacksmith called The White House and included two acres of land.  By 1820 it had stables and was described as a ‘night house’ where carters  could rest. Owned by Wellers of Amersham and then by Beskins of Watford.  Beskins rebuilt it in 1946.

Bakers Shop

Butchers Shop

Apple Tree was the Fox and Hounds.  Beer house takikng its name from the meeting place of the Old Berkeley Hunt. Opposite the French Horn. 

Woodhill. Early estate in the parish of Iver on Chalfont Common.  House belonging to Brasenose College and fitted up as a hunting box with extensive stabling.   Part of Iver Parish which passed from the owners of Bulstrode to Brasenose as an endowment for a scholarship.  They let it to a Thomas Treadaway in 1680 and successive tenants until 1894 when it was sold to Col.Le Poer Trench who sold it for development.  The house became derelict and was demolished in 1970.

The Rancho.  Built in 1862 by adventurer Thomas Mayne Reid  who had fought in the Mexican Civil War.  He wrote adventure stories for boys and an account of his own wedding to a 15 year old.  He leased the site from Brasenose College and built a house to his own design, also supervising the on site brick works.  He then went bankrupt and cleared off.  The house was bought by John Langley Moore of Langley Lodge but left to decay.

Two lodges for The Rancho.  One of these was adapted as a gate house for Langley Lodge. 

St.James’s Church. Anna Maria and Louisa Reid wanted to build a church to the memoryh of their brother George Reid of Bulstrode Park. All members of the Reid brewing family.  They asked for a site on Fulmer Common and got this bit where plans for a church were provided by William Tite.  Consecretated 1859.  A new parish was set up.

Four End Lane Woodhill Cottages built by Brasenose College. 

Bailey Garage corner of Pinewood Close 1911

St.Hubert’s Lane

St.Huberts Lane was created when le Poer Trench moved the road away from his front door.

St. Huberts. Was originally Langley Lodge but changed by Hon.William Le Poer Trench to the patron saint of hunting. Following the enclosure acts of 1815 of Langley Marish two acres remained with Edmund Grove who had a farm house and Grove Cottages.  This was joined by Langley Lodge which was bought inn 1863 by John Bramley Moore and Liverpool merchant.  His son became the first vicar of Gerrards Cross.  Langley Lodge was rebuilt with lots of chimneys and  a gas works.  When he died it was bought by William Le Poer Trench ex Royal Engineers and MP for Galway.  He placed a large model white stag over the porch and the Prince of Wales used to visit.  His widow lived there until 1940 when it was taken over by the Triangle Secretarial College.

Coachman’s cottage with date stone 1863

Stables with date stone 1866

Pinewood Close

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Oxford Road

Toll House on the turnpike road with toll gates at Redhill. Demolished for road widening in 1929

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Cheapside Lane

Methodist chapel, 1820 opened by Adam Clarke, memorial window