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Guildford
Cottages; a three-bay three-storey early c 18 house,
The Court, 15 houses. 1902 slice of Hampstead Garden Suburb. A big half-H; courtyard of 15 houses by H. Thackeray Turner, Interesting plan, very advanced for the date, but timid Baillie Scott-like detail - a great comedown from Wycliffe Buildings.
39-41, pretty early c19 Classical, semi- detached
Hambledon UDC Offices 20th at its worst a sharp slap by Coussmaker & Armstrong, 1938
Caleb Lovejoy Almshouses. Tudor 1840. Spiky-enough and pretty-enough
Westbury House 1790. Plain, of four bays and three storeys or rather five bays on the ground floor and four on the others with a big Tuscan Doric porch.
CEGB 1960 terribly bulky. Big T-shaped offices by Braddock & Martin-Smith.
18-20 Tudor overhang. Plastered Tudor
Commercial Road
Intricate piecemeal Early Victorian speculation, much of it grey stucco brick and as hard-bitten as it would be in Suffolk or Norfolk
Friary Brewery is a complex informal industrial jumble of c.1860 with a big brick tower.
Archway led to Georgian terraces now demolished. A few cottages
Godalming Navigation
Leat which supplied the Town Mill, already there when work began on making the Godalming Navigation. This feature is part of the system for feeding water power to the Town Mill. Its turbulent overflow provides a local 'white-water' training area for canoeists.
tumbling bay to divert surplus water, already there when work began on making the Godalming Navigation.
Horse bridge. once stood at the northern end of the cut crossing the backwater to Millmead.
Millmead Lock is the start of the Wey South Path which follows the course of the Godalming Navigation, the Wey & Arun Canal and the Arun Navigation to Amberley in Sussex.
Central Hall/Plaza Guildford Plaza: October 1949. This 500-seater was the third and least Odeon hall in the town, after the Playhouse and Odeon.
Guildford Playhouse: October 1949. One of a small number of British cinemas reached through an arcade. restaurant. This was a County/Odeon property grouped with the Gaumonts.
The only main street in medieval Guildford. It was intersected by a series of side turnings called ‘gates’. It is on a High Street is a convex hill, and there are several minor changes of level and slope. the Town Hall clock is exactly placed to defines the skyline – it has become a bright and cheerful Home Counties Street.
25 –29 was Nuthall's restaurant with Jacobean interior, carved oak staircase and plaster ceiling. A typical local Baroque house, though the ground floor has been completely replaced by a shop-front. Lumpish, three-storeyed, giant pilasters and unusually carefully detailed cornice.
44 Endsleigh Insurance. Brick-lined pit found in a cupboard during building
43-45 19th local Baroque in early 019 terms, pedimented, with in arcaded first floor and careful brick detail built in an unusually coloured stock brick which is deep yellow with a pink tinge.
56 W.H.Smith. was the post office 17th with bow window. Large chalk block cellar found during building work and subsequently destroyed.. The front largely imitation, the side keeping its c 17 plastered gables.
82 last shop before the Town Bridge was a business concerned with the river. The earliest known occupier was James Spark jnr whowas selling fishing tackle, hiring out boats and making ginger beerin 1839. Mr T Denty took over in 1866 and he was followed in 1878 by Mr Martin who also ran baker's.
93-95 Lakeland. Stone steps leading to a brick-vaulted cellar. Evidence of a bricked up passage connecting to the nearby Angel Hotel
103 c.1700 entirely rebuilt. Jumble. Some of same character as the Guildhall but has been entirely rebuilt
115 vaulted undercrofts. Late 13th with moulded capitalsand corbel with carved figures.
143 Crabtree and Evelyn. Section of a 12th-13th century undercroft revealed
144 17th is earlier than most of the Guildford houses, an early c17 front with two plastered bow windows stubbed off short at the inevitable shop-front.
155 Child House. 1660, this was built as the house of John Child, a lawyer. It became a public art gallery in 1957, and a wealth of interesting period detail can be seen inside. the best of the very individual late c 17 Guildford houses. Three bays and three storeys, the upper ' storeys with pilasters and big windows filling almost the whole wall area between them. Ground-floor doorcase contemporary with a c18 bow-fronted shop-window added on each side. It is very typical of City of London carpenters' work of a few years either side of 1660. Central doorcase with scrolled volutes at the sides. Shop-windows with carved panels of luxuriant whorled foliage and flowers underneath. The rear elevation is just as original and clear-headed, a two-bay wing of three storeys and basement under a gable. Plain casements, except on the ground floor, which has a very pretty bow window with curly ornament under. Inside, one plaster ceiling in the room at the back of the ground floor, in a simple geometrical pattern derived from Inigo Jones, roughly done. Bigger 'and richer ceiling in the same style in the main room on the first floor, a circle inscribed in a square itself inscribed in a 'larger square. The panels between the squares are given circular and oval motifs and cherubs' heads; the central circle is richly vegetable. The ornamented ribs use the same motifs as are on the panels of the staircase, the best feature of the house. It is the familiar newel-post staircase round a narrow well, but treated with unexpected care. Ornate openwork floral panels 'beneath the banister rail. Newel posts carved above with bowls of fruit and below ending in floral pendants so that each pendant answers the bowl on the floor below, a familiar late c17 type. Small-arcaded vestibule on the first floor, probably early c18, with a well-moulded Victorian eagle on the first-floor landing. Largely original casements throughout, with many original elegant wrought-iron fasteners. All this is datable about 1670, reflecting Inigo Jones at second hand. The real quality depends almost entirely on the individual incidentally also has an apparently original rear elevation of the type, i.e. exaggeratedly long windows made up into vertical and worth a special look in view of the horribly fussy wrought iron means today. The craftsman’s ability; here the woodwork is very good, the plasterwork rather poor.
237-239 Pizza Express. Traces of cellars found which were mostly destroyed by bank vaults.
Angel Hotel. The Angel is the sole survivor of Guildford's half dozen coaching inns, which flourished after the growth of Portsmouth as a dockyard. Being halfway between Portsmouth and London, Guildford was a natural stopping point for travellers. You will notice that while the facade of the Angel is in the Regency style, refronted in the heyday of the turnpikes, under the archway can be seen timber-framing dating from Jacobean times. Notice how the inn yard, paved with granite setts, continues down to North Street beyond. This is a characteristic Guildford 'gate' - an alleyway or lane running from the High Street the length of the property to the street behind. Pre 1527 and 1820 facade. claimed to be HQ of Automobile Club. Stucco coaching-hotel front, cap-a-pie in grey and white with good lettering. The back contains both half-timbering fragments of c 17 work, hard to decipher. There is one violent wooden window of c.1620 in the yard entry, with diamond rusticated jambs, the same style as the Abbot's Hospital door. Medieval Undercroft may have been decorated with fascias.Underground is a c 13 vaulted basement, probably a wine store thick chamfered ribs springing from round piers without capitals, a completely functional job.
Harvey's, four-storey early c 19 design with the same small pediment above, containing a squashed lunet. Behind this running towards North Street is also Harvey’s a five-storey shop by G. A. Jellicoe and Partners, 1957, straightforward modern elevations, using an exposed reinforced concrete frame and glass and wood-board infilling. It is almost the biggest building in the town centre – conspicuous in the view from the Hog's Back - yet it quite invisible from the High Street and only partly visible from North Street, appearing intermittently between them. This game of hide and seek with the view played by what he knows to be a very big building, is a delightful effect in itself, apart from maintaining the scale of the High Street. On the fifth floor a roof garden in the Swedish-style garden design.
Woolworth’s. far better than the standard product. The front was designed by Thomas Sharp, a sober white plastered block of four bays and three store with two single bays of brick stepped uphill from it. Site of Lion Hotel, 19th but attractive. Demolished 1957. Old lion included in the shop front. It was long and stuccoed,
Multi Storey car park. Bold concrete ramps rest feeble and over fussy. Well concealed. By Courtaulds Technical Services 1962-3
Municipal Offices. 1931 plus fussy white mosaic block of 1962. More Neo-Georgian buildings by T. R. Clemence, 1931
This, a large new block, rather fussy, with white mosaic pant and brick dividing walls, by Scott, Brownrigg & Turner, 1962
Sainsbury's. This was a wild piece of polychrome brick and tile in Jacobean style - it fitted in better than some of the post-war timidities of Guildford - by P. H. Adams, 1905. It has been replaced (1961-3) by a tall all-brown facade with large, aggressive, irregular boxed-out windows. Timidity is no longer the danger at Guildford. The architects once again are Scott, Brownrigg & Turner.)
Somerset House, a big house of c.1700 in the current Wren fashion. Seven bays, the centre treated as a frontispiece with a gable that looks mostly c20 improvisation, though possible with original materials. Heavy handsome ironwork and flight of stone steps to the front door, undoubtedly original.
a road and a car park both creations of the 1960s, part of a scheme to relieve traffic congestion in Guildford.
Town Mill. Large brick building. There have been mills on this site, probably since Saxon times, grinding flour and fulling cloth in mediaeval and Tudor times when the wool trade brought prosperity to the town. The building you see today was mostly built in 1770, being extended at the west end in the 1850s. This extension was built in an exact imitation of the Georgian style and it is only on close examination that you can see the join in the brickwork between the two parts. The mill ceased to grind in 1894, when the Corporation took it over as a waterworks. When the nearby Yvonne Arnaud Theatre was opened in the middle of the 1960s, the disused mill building was let as scenery workshops. It is now intended that it should become a small studio theatre. The Date plaque is the date on the council bought it. An impressive big mill of c.1760 with Victorian additions. Brick, seven bays three storeys, plus a bulky hipped roof.
Site of Town Bridge, where the Golden Ford was. A stone bridge was built around 1200, which lasted until 1900 when a flood destroyed it The Central arch enlarged by Smeaton in 1760. A cast-steel bridge was erected. This became so badly corroded it was demolished in 1983. The first major obstacle to the creation of the Godalming Navigation was the medieval bridge, still intact in 1760. Its arches were too small and the river too shallow to allow large barges to pass through. In 1900 timber floated out of the yard and piled up against the bridge and the bridge was badly damaged. the County Council paid for the repair work and took responsibility for the bridge thereafter. This cast iron bridge served until 1985 when it was replaced with a steel and concrete structure. Some parts of the earlier bridge were re-used so that it appears much the same. Currently for pedestrian use only..
John Moon's timber yard.
Ford giving an alternative crossing for horse-drawn carts. Dredge this to let barges pass upstream and you no longer have a ford
Bridge until 1909, no way across the river.. A Mr Angell put forward the idea of making a footbridge upstream of the Jolly Farmer Inn. He and his friends raised funds, built a handsome oak bridge, and presented it to the town. This bridge has gone, replaced in 1933 by a concrete one of slim design but perhaps not quite so appropriate to the setting as the old bridge.
Guildford Iron Foundry. Now site ot Yvonne Arnaud Theatre. set up in 1794 by E Filmer and a partner and made a wide range of iron castings. As Filmer & Mason from 1854 the works produced, among other items, cast-iron grave markers. Many are still to be seen in cemeteries and churchyards . The buildings were demolished in 1941.
Jolly Farmer Inn. Hiring out boats here At the end of the 19th century. the pub, was then a plain, grey building with suitable access to the river. The earliest known boating business here was run by the brothers Charles and Alfred Leroy. Born in Belgium they took over as licensees of the Jolly Farmer in 1893 and put up the first of their boat-houses between the river and the pub. Sharing the site at that time was The Guildford Swimming and Life-Saving Society. In 1913 the Jolly Farmer was re-built and changed little since. In 1919 there was a new landlord, Mr W K Crane.
Allen's Boat-house and Tea Rooms was established in 1912 a few yards downstream of the Jolly Farmer with an elegant, two-storey building. Now a private house. Closed in 1940s.. At the end of the war Mr Cordery bought the moribund for his sons and it operated from a site a little upstream from the original boat-house but in 1961 the land was acquired by Guildford Corporation and became part of Millbrook car park.
Leroy's Boat-house and Tea Gardens. Built by Charles Leroy. now a private house.
Leroys Ltd. occupied Harry How's old site near Onslow Bridge after 1915 until 1942. In 1943 it was taken over by Captain Charlie Hirst who ran it for nearly 20 years. He had a 30-passenger launch built, named Pilgrim, and ran regular river trips. The vessel was almost silent, being electrically propelled and powered by a set of rechargeable batteries.
Guildford Boat House. In 1961 Captain Hirst retired, selling out to Leslie and Marion Smailes. They re-located downstream to the site of the Guildford Boat-house – and the present building with living accommodation above, was erected. They retired in 1974 and the business was transferred to the Chase and Hall families. The trip boat is named Harry Stevens in memory of the man who spent a lifetime looking after the waterway. The restaurant boat was named Alfred Leroy
an untidy tangle of bus station and traffic islands. Millmead goes along the river bank with pleasant industrial buildings and a view of the Quarry Street backs,
Alice, her sister and the White Rabbit in bronze, a reminder that the creator of Alice in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll, spent much of his time at his house in Guildford.
Plummer’s self-important bulk of by G. Baines & Syborn, 1963-7 stretches from the bridge along the side of the river. The building is out of scale with its surroundings, and the lifeless river-walk beside it is no compensation.
riverside square tiny cottagey
Millmead House c.1700. Guildford R.D.C. offices, altered and added to. The original part is four bays wide, central first-floor window with an architectural surround. Later c18 attic and porch, multiple c20 alterations and additions. The back is less altered. It has one window with delightful scrolled and broken pediment above it not attached to any aedicule frame, just floating, in between the urn, and under it a tiny inset of grey brick, a very individual touch, unlike any of the other Guildford houses.
Bus station. Rebuilt on original site.
The most notable thing in the street is the superb view of the whole length of High Street and the town centre. Harvey's store and the car park on look enormous, and Holy Trinity tower takes its place as the finial to the upward view, which it never does in
4, of the late 17th with simple recessed patterns in the brickwork, then
Mount House 1730 bulky
33 pre-Victorian cottages further up on the other side working-class c19, but the total effect spoilt by piecemeal slum clearance without rebuilding.
Anglo Saxon Cemetery.
There was a neo-Norman range of varying height and degree of projection, two to three storeys, probably of c.1840. An archway inscribed Salvam Domine Pac Victoriam led to an eight-house terrace of completely plain Late Georgian three-storey brick, now demolished.
16 Plough. Restful haven, looking out through quaint diamond-paned windows on to Guildford's busy one-way system. A small interior has just four tables and a brick-built island feature at which customers can stand or sit on bar stools to chat
Runs towards Godalming from the extreme end of the High Street. The beginning has now lost its earlier character completely.
Front of the C.E.G.B. offices
Two plain eleven storey blocks of flats higher up, by Scott, Brownrigg & Turner 1963-4.
Wycliffe Buildings. 1894 remarkable stone built flats. Voysey tricks. H. Thackeray Turner. Three storeys, on a wedge-shaped site with a steep slope down from the apex at the end. This has a tower: the side form splendid compositions of gables and functionally placed windows, without any period detail, but using Voysey's trick of elegant scrolled drainpipe supports. This is the style often used in LCC's housing of c.1900, but better done and earlier than the famous Millbank Estate. It is up to the best English work of the nineties. Some of the interior detail just as remarkable - e.g. the stair handrail to No 7-9, with the writhing Art Nouveau spirit applied functional not merely as a decorative trick.
Condor Court. Contemptible. In horrid contrast thirties Neo-Georgian.
22 called Swiss Cottage in fact a pretty Swiss chalet - tile-hung! Of c.1840, with curved brass ingeniously adapted to a steep site high above the road.
A pair of bulky mid-Georgian houses with bow windows
2-4 Mount Pleasant several c. 19 pairs of speculative Grecian villas,
61-71, each sharing a four-column colonnade.
73-75 is another with battlemented recessed one-bay wings and Gothick windows.
79 is plain, three bays with an Ionic porch, but on the garden side four giant pilasters with bold Ionic cap
97 Hitherbury House. Exactly the same style, but bigger and more composed; it still looks like what Gordon Cullen has called an alibi for design
58 shop. Cellar containing large chalk block walls noted.
Millbrook House. Plastered front. Tudor
21 fake Dutch gable end. With plastered front gables to the road.
49 Castle House. c. 1740 big, very plain Palladian house of three bays with a hefty doorcase,
Guildford Museum. HQ of the Surrey Archaeological Society. 1900 enlarged picturesque cottage. Prettiest cottage ensemble in Guildford. part single-storey by Ralph Nevill, unhappy mock-Jacobean gables, but mainly a very picturesque enlarged cottage partly built into the outbuildings and next to the castle entrance. The front has a tile-hung gable above stone-built bow window and another half-timbered gable, dated 1672. The front inside the archway has two gabled and tile-hunt wings.
6 17th house with crude pargetting no figures, only geometrical patterns: a rarity in Surrey, but probably through destruction of most of the other local examples
A series of steps, giving first-rate picturesque views of backs of the Quarry Street houses.it was originally used as an open sewer running down to the river
Bridge House. 1959 admirably unaffected. By Scott, Brownrigg & Turner, a seven-storey office block. Alternate bands of glass and pink granite chippings, no decoration except ft 'BRIDGE HOUSE' in bold letters. A very good example of knowing when to stop.
An odd area that was laid out expensive houses c. 1900 and still has open country immediately beyond.
Monks Path. Demure neo Georgian by Baillie Scott. Fundamentally timid
Undershaw with pergola built in 1910 in the Tudor style with a sophisticated entry from the street via a pergola running between low-roofed wings in the Lutyens way. Fundamentally timid by Baillie Scott
Crane & treadmill, black, weather-boarded building which houses the Treadwheel Crane. This stood on-the Town Wharf and was dismantled and re-erected when the embankment was constructed in about 1970. The River Wey was one of the first rivers in England to be canalised, in the 1650s. The Wey Navigation brought a flush of prosperity to Guildford and the waterway was extended as the Godalming Navigation in 1762. The Treadwheel Crane was used to load and unload the barges moored at the wharf, the cargo frequently being wheat. 17th century, with chain and hook. Treadmill 18' diameter in a timber building. Capable of lifting up to a 3-ton load which it last did in 1908 when handling concrete building piles. Rare pre-c19 industrial survival. Small, weatherboarded and tile building, half open for wagons to drive in, half enclosed and containing an enormous tread wheel, 15 ft in diameter, geared to a crane on the waterfront. Probably c18, and in fairly good condition.
Woodbridge Road
Angle between Lea Pale Road and Woodbridge Road, another industrial site a weatherboarded workshop with long horizontal strip window a small but effective piece of early c19 architecture.
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